Rocketman3

To operate the Pac Brake it just needs 12positive and 12v negative- oh and air in the air tank. in testing mine, I just brought a separate battery to the engine area and used that to operate it while oiling it up with the pac brake oil. Also, does anyone know where the relay is that operates the pac brake?

Also, after you get your batteries sorted out, (and bad ones replaced), you may want to give some consideration to a shunt based battery monitor. Voltage (even with agm batteries) is not a great indicator of how charged or discharged status. Which is why you need a shunt based monitor. I use the Victron Smartshunt (there are other manufacturers). Good Luck

Call Source Engineering in Oregon. 458-207-9442 Good Luck

I don’t know on your’s… But I do know some relay’s have a diode so when the coil collapses it doesn’t send voltage and current back into the computer. Maybe someone can enlighten both of us.

NAPA wanted much more than everyone else for my air filter (although they had it in stock), I ordered from Fleetguard (free shipping over a certain $$$ amount - the air filter covered it). Arrived in a couple of days (fedex or ups).

Because we boondock a LOT- we carry blocks to ramp the tires if needed. Often we will have the front wheels up 4” on blocks. Our auto leveling is completely messed up - can’t level on a level spot. We got a Level-Mate Pro. It is very nice because I can see on my phone how many inches each tire needs to rise. our parking procedures: Park - look at Level Mate Pro Add blocks if needed - once driven on the blocks. Slide Out (under full air). Jacks Down - front down first.

The prior owner has Yokohama tires 295/75r22.5 - RY023 Load H. Since I don’t know much about tires and Commercial Tires said “Yep that’s a good one and we have it available” - I got the same tire. I think it rides good - but what do I know. Good Luck!

Drive it 30 min or so at normal road speeds- sure. Do it once a month or so. Idle it in place - nope. That is worse than letting it sit. If you want to drive it - do it. But if you don’t- it won’t really hurt it. It does help a little- lubricants, tires, batteries, etc. This is just my opinions- I did not inherit any of my dad’s mechanical skills.

I have Flag Pole Buddy four 4’ poles on my Monaco ladder and of course I don’t have a flag… I have a StarLink on it. I put 2 poles up when no trees, etc are around, with more trees I go to four lengths. They have a nice bag that I believe holds 6 poles. No issues with wind - but if there is a storm near I often take it down.

Since installing my Lithium’s- solar and batteries has became a serious hobby for me. if you are getting Lithium’s make sure and get the LiFePO4 - lithium iron phosphate. Don’t get the used Telsa model S modules or make your own with other Lithium chemistries. Also make sure you have a good BMS (Battery Management System) setup. if you mistreat them they can have issues- so can lead batteries and propane systems and the gas and diesel fuel.

I replaced the two “salesman switch “ solenoids with two Victron smart BP-65 (battery protects). My reasons: 1. I never use the salesman switch to cut off power. 2. I wanted an automatic cutoff that would cut off power in case lights were left on with a low battery. 3. I wanted to keep the ability to easily turn the the furnace(etc) on and off to power cycle it. 4. Any most importantly the old solenoids used a lot of power - the new BP65 use almost no power - since we boondock a lot - this was important to us. Also I can read the voltage at that point on my phone. or you can just bypass them.

Another option… I eliminated the blue battery isolator. (Connected the alternator wire to the chassis battery wire - no connection to house battery wire). I have installed a bunch of solar (1400w) and lithium batteries for the house batteries. Thus I needed to “break” the electrical connection so the alternator could not charge the house battery. I did add a Victron Dc-Dc charger so when the engine is on it will slowly (30amps) charge the house battery if needed (and to the correct charging specs).

There is a guy in Texas, (he has a Monaco on this forum) that does flooring. The pictures I have seen look really good. we have been thinking about replacing our couch. I recently found that LoveSac has a “couch” that will fit my size well… One arm rest and two sections.

My 2000 Dynasty is a RR8S: My understanding: RR - stands for Roadmaster or Raised Rail 8 - is the number of airbags S - is for Side Radiator (R is for Rear Radiator).

My recommendation would be Victron. It is more expensive… but it works very well. I put it in my Dynasty- we full-time and boondock most of the time. It has been rock solid! But it may be overkill. One advantage of the Multiplus is the transfer switch and charger is built-in. The 2k unit has a low zero load watts of 9w (can go even lower with a search feature). Once setup it just runs. One thing I like with my Multiplus 12/3000 is when we overload it (we try not to - but it happens), the 120v power all goes out, then about 20 seconds later it resets and comes back on automatically with no issues.

I installed my Victron Dc-Dc charger in my rear run bay - I had both engine voltage and house voltage there. In big 4/0 cables - so it was a natural place for me to place it. Good Luck

Also, there are several safety cutoffs… I used a transmission neutral safety cutoff to make a can’t start switch. When I forget to switch it back on, it acts like what you are describing. No click - but just doesn’t start. Dont know if that helps at all.

In my 2000 Dynasty, I replaced the 85w OEM panel with two 210w panels, and I replaced the Solar Controller Controller) SCC with a Victron mppt 100/30. After a while, I decided I needed a bit more solar on that array (after adding Starlink 24/7) and was able to match up two 100w panels (in parallel) that together worked well with the other panels. This overpaneled that array, but it helps with more power when the conditions are not just right. (I only lost 12w of power in panel mismatch penalty). My cables from the roof to the SCC were plenty big, also the cables from the SCC were 8awg - their only issue is they are very long. Which impacts the voltage drop on the wire. I get 30a of charging for a lot of the day, The last week on the good days - I have been getting 2.6 to 2.8kwh of daily power from that array (400w for 6.5 to 7 hours) - it all depends on clouds… In my rig because of the OEM wires, that’s as large of a SCC I could put in - keeping the SCC in the same place.

The motion rechargeable led lights that Mike H showed are great! We got ours a couple years ago from Amazon. In addition to the entry way, we have them installed just above the bathroom sink and also in the toilet room. At night these provide plenty (almost too much) light and we don’t wake up the other person if we get up in the night.

I also put sea level on my 2000Dynasty. I added a display panel in my wet bay. Let’s me know how close to full the water is getting- it is great. it uses 3 & 4% for the changes - for example 74%, 77%, then 81%. I have had it for about 2 years - works great. here are the pictures- showing the stick on sensors and my main gauges. I had a little wood spacer made to make it look good. Good Luck

Solar wire… maybe… On my 2000 Dynasty the solar wire went directly to the battery- it was 8 awg and had a fuse on it. How does that switch disconnect from the backer board? That’s one of the switches I have been thinking about replacing.

For my MotorHome to get the bedroom A/C to work on inverter, I moved the breaker from the “shore/generator “ panel to the “inverter” panel. The shore panel has breakers going to the inverter for charging. Then either in pass-through mode or inverter mode the inverter supplies the inverter panel with power. Your electric system may be setup completely different. For the heater… Your old thermostat that controlled the A/C’s also controlled the heater. The heater control wires go up to the A/C to a board that operates a relay that controls the heater. (which you removed when you took out the oem A/C). My rig had two independent thermostats one for rear A/C and one for front A/C and heater (4-button). I did not replace the frontA/C because I wasn’t sure how to handle the heater at that time (we use the heater way more than the A/C’s). I figure I can put up a thermostat just for the heater when I replace the front A/C. I have not pursued that yet. The furnace has two 12v control wires - if you connect them together- the furnace starts, break the connection and it stops. If you don’t use it much you could literally just connect those wires to a manual switch or find a heater only RV thermostat. I want to figure out how to hook the Micro Air thermostat to run just the heater - but I haven’t taken the time yet to figure it out. Good Luck with the project

Hello everyone, I figured I would let you know about my latest project. About a year ago I replaced the rear A/C with a RecPro 3800. The old A/C had its own 4-button thermostat. The front A/C (and furnace) work on a different thermostat. It has worked well when we needed it to (we don’t usually travel to places we need it). I also moved the incoming power for that A/C to the inverter breaker box - that way I could run the A/C on inverter. When I did that my inverter (Victron Multiplus 12/3000) would send me a warning saying low voltage and high ripple when the compressor started. I finally decided to put a soft start on that A/C. I put the MicroAir EZ start Bluetooth unit. It was a very easy install. Then it was time to do the 5 starts. The first start is without any EZ start help. It took 27.9amps (@120v) to start. No wonder the inverter was giving me the warnings. After finishing the starts - it now only takes 16.5amps (120v) to start the compressor. The inverter no longer complains! Today (just for fun), I ran the A/C for several hours on battery (544ah lithium) and solar (1400w). The A/C slowly drains the battery- ended my day at 90% full.

Does your generator start on the Chassis battery or the house battery. Monaco did it both ways in different years. My rig the generator is on the Chassis battery. If the generator is running and I try to start the diesel engine- it kills the generator and I get generator errors - either the ignition switch kills the power as the start circuit is engaged or the voltage drops so low the generator quits. I read somewhere that is NOT good for the generator (can fry an electronics board - don’t know if it’s true or not) so I try not to do it. I usually don’t drive with the generator on. But I have (just have to remember to shut it down before starting. my generator is the 7.5 Good Luck

After reading this and watching the video on fixing the beltline - how do I know if I have a beltline problem? I have a 2000 Dynasty- (older than the ones you were working on). I looked at my beltline and it all look good, it all looks sealed. I ran my thumb over the whole lower beltline- it all felt smooth (horizontally) - in two section it felt fatter (vertically), right at the passenger bay door and at the rear radiator. As long as the upper beltline is also good - does that mean no issues and someone had a good day at the factory 23 years ago? Thanks