Rocketman3

Just to give a follow-up… I got it fixed! it was a National Hardware item: N190-044 (nickle) N100-047 (gold) A Do it Best store ordered it for me, the only issue is the new one was about 1mm bigger, so I had to buy a 5/8” drill bit. Thanks for everyone’s help!

I am assuming your four 6v batteries are lead-acid… (not agm or lithium) The charger was maintaining the float charge of 13.5. (The solar will try to keep it these too). The batteries will slowly drop until they get to about 12.6. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/battery/bat_volts.php has a nice chart. You are still 100% full at 12.6. it should take a long time to get to the lower voltages. I can’t help you with the auto start stuff. I replaced my Trace with a Victron just after I bought my rig- it was having issues. Good Luck

Hello everyone, The bathroom doorknob on our 2000 Dynasty is about wore out. It is difficult to turn and only opens in one direction. Does anyone know where to get a replacement? Thanks

Good Luck with the project! My first try on sealing the outside door failed. The second try seems to be much more successful! I got some Leak Stop 4” tape at Lowes and sealed the inside of the door. That sealed the air out. Then I got some Big Stretch caulking and filled in all the little squares. This covered the sticky tape and added a slight bit of insulation. Enjoy your new fridge

Since we are moving today, I figured I would post my easy solution to the doors opening on my residential. There are lots of ways to do this. My fridge in storage mode… The straps just easily slip on and off Got them from Amazon- Bimini top strap holders. I got the “ manual” ice maker… it dumps ice whenever I crack the tray and turn it upside down. I didn’t want an auto one cause they take up too much room in the fridge. Good Luck

Are you thinking of going residential? or staying with the same fridge? With residential the sizes don’t match. I went with Fisher & Paykel. It’s height was just a little taller, slightly narrower, slightly deeper. And LOTS more interior space. Samsung also seems to be a popular model. you could just replace it with another Norcold. Easy to fit, but I think the quality has gone down over the years. My rig’s 1200 lasted over 20 years, took it out because we went full- time and wanted the better fridge. My Dad’s four year old 1210 (same size), died at four years coming back from Alaska - the coolant tube corroded through. a third option is replacing the cooling unit with an Amish unit. That’s what we did on my Dad’s fridge. Was not hard - 2 person job. He stayed the same propane + electric. They also have 12v compressor style too. Good Luck

Bad starter? Hope not…

I had that happen a couple of times. in my case, I had installed an 800w solar array, I had been driving for a while - so all batteries were full. And I figure the battery maintainer gave enough power to run the engine - so the alternator decided it was no longer needed. The alternator turned off and the light went on. In my rig the RPM is tied to the alternator- so my RPM’s went to zero - while the engine was running nicely. After researching it- I just turn on my headlights, so my alternator feels needed and the alt fail light goes off - my RPM needle returns. No issues. Not saying that’s your issue…

Can’t see the photo’s - what file is that?

If your shunt comes off the battery negative and nothing else is on the negative wire then a non-isolated Dc-Dc charger will work just fine - the frame ground is on the load side of the shunt and it’s cheaper. you can have more than one shunt on the negative line. However, every shunt add resistance and voltage drop to the system (that’s how they work). I have two shunts - a Batrium for the BMS and a Victron. It’s not ideal but…

I installed a Victron Dc-Dc charger 30a non-isolated in my rig. I have an ignition fuse block I created (powered when the ignition is on) for a FASS pump, I also use that to drive a relay for the charge signal for the Dc-Dc charger. (I wanted to make sure I didn’t have a circular charging going on between the two banks). The one downside is whenever I shut the rig off - like for fuel, the Dc-Dc goes back into absorbing mode. Also, with only 30a going into a 540ah of batteries- it it only another trickle of power. Good Luck!

Yes a Victron Dc-dc charger would work - (there are others). Another way would be a small solar panel on the top of the generator (with a small solar charge controller.

Electrical your 4/0 load is divided into four 12v batteries- so a smaller cable would work. (Which is why Monaco probably did that). on my rig with four 6v I had 2/0 for the interconnection. I would go with the largest wire you can easily work with - 2/0 or 1/0…. If you could do it with 4/0 - I would use that. All the interconnections need to be the same length and size.

I have a 2000 Dynasty (with furnace under and low ceilings). Here is what I did… Fisher and Paykel Fridge - (got it through Best Buy) i needed to lower the base a few inches. My furnace was sitting on a 2x4 - so 3-1/2” off the floor. In reading the furnace specs it needed some height above (I have forgotten the exact specs), but it was fine to be right on the floor. So I pulled out the old fridge - took out the old fridge floor, dropped the furnace down to the floor. The exhaust and intake holes I needed to adjust. I just moved the exhaust into the intake hole, and drilled a new intake hole with a hole saw. Used the plugs, and plugged and siliconed the upper hole closed. I made an aluminum exterior plate to cover the old holes and new holes. Reinstalled the same 3/4 plywood base and I had the room needed for the height. After getting done, if I used metal for the fridge to sit on I could have gotten another inch. (But I didn’t need it). It can be done! And you will LOVE it when it’s done.

On page 5 is my writeup on August 1st I found an ignition source in my rear run bay. One of the terminal blocks says “ignition”. I ran that to a relay and used the relay to drive a 6fuse block. I used AN10 coupling and 2 AN10 caps to couple the fuel hoses and cap the OEM lift pump. (I got them from Amazon - Evil Energy brand). On my install I put the FASS where the first fuel pump was - I believe FASS pump sizes were the same as the old fuel filter housing. So I didn’t need any other fittings there. I didn’t put a ball valve on the inlet of the FASS pump for changing filters. I just figure I will redo the initial start procedure- but it is a good idea.

We got our Fisher & Paykel in through the front door. Removed drivers and passenger seats, took off door closer. Removed the doors on the fridge. Barely fit. we got the old NeverCold 1200 out with the help of a sawzall. Once it was in 2 pieces it went out real easy!

Hello everyone, I have a 2000 Dynasty 36’. And I am installing the Air Force One braking system. Ok I am a bit confused… I need to identify a metered air connection and a supply air connection. The manual just says Roadmasters are like Freightliners… Part of my problem is I don’t know what the parts under my rig are and what they do. Also, I remember seeing an air diagram of a 2000 Monaco somewhere? Any idea where it is? I took the following photos (from the ground), can you please help me identify the parts (what they are called and what they do). 1st photo - there are two of these. 2nd photo - there are two of these in the photo(right next to each other). 3rd photo - only one of These. Thank you for your help!

I keep my insurance #’s higher and have the Umbrella policy. The part that would concern me is if I am in an accident with the Monaco - it is so large and heavy- and other cars are cheap tin can’s My rig could do some serious damage and cause significant medical bills. Good Luck with your decision

In my opinion the reason to disconnect is because the SCC will use a little bit of power 24/7. However, that will not matter for you because you plug in your rig. So - owners choice… to disconnect the SCC or not… (I would leave it connected).

Yes it is handy stuff. What continues to amaze me is how well built our Monaco’s are. My basement door latch broke, so I replaced it yesterday. The plastic panel was pop-riveted in place and then it was glued. In the door cavity was fiberglass insulation. So the doors have some insulation- but more is better.

Chains for the tires may be necessary. You may also not move if the weather is bad Also make sure the windshield washer fluid is cold rated. We plan around storms and don’t move if roads are not completely dry in winter. Also winter is the only time I prefer interstates - usually I prefer smaller roads. Good Luck!

I put in a Fisher & Paykel - it’s height was an inch or so shorter than the other ones I looked at. I needed to gain a bit of height by lowering my furnace (it was up on a 2x4) and then lowered the floor of the fridge compartment. so I needed a couple of inches for height- then it was slightly narrower than the “Never Cold”. I added a 2” oak strip (1/4” thick) on the side for trim to finish it off - and match the oak kitchen. I have really liked this fridge (installed last December). Best Buy could order them in. It was a bit more expensive, but the size fit well. Model# RF170 ADX 4N to get it in the MotorHome, took out the chairs, took off the closing bar on the door - so it would max swing, took the doors off the new fridge, added painters to tape to the doorway and two big delivery dudes lifted it into the MotorHome. The old one came out easily- after the sawzall put in on a “diet”. We full-time, added 400w of solar to cover the power. To keep the doors closed when traveling- we added some stainless steel loops to the wood on the side, then we just use a strap that goes through the loops to hold the door closed (one for fridge, one for freezer). We were amazed at how much more room we had in the new fridge and freezer! Good Luck

I think one of the best items to help figure out problems like this is to install a Victron Smartshunt or BMV712. it is also really nice because it lets you know how full/empty the batteries are. Plus the time until batteries empty is really great! Do you have a propane/electric fridge that was on electric when camping?

I hope a truck tires shop can take care of me. My size is a common truck size.

That looks interesting… can you show a complete picture of it now installed. thanks