Rocketman3

How old are your chassis batteries?

Yes I bypassed the original lift pump, I got those fittings from Amazon. I also ordered an extra set of filters for the FASS. I ordered the same shorter filters, because I didn’t know exactly where/how it would install and I was concerned that the longer ones would be too big. Turns out they will work fine.

Well I just finished installing my FASS pump in my 2000 Dynasty. Took one (long) day. Here are my thoughts of what went good, bad or different than I expected… I ordered the TS D08 100G from Parleys Diesel in St George Ut. (Which is for a 99 Dodge Ram.- ironically my brother has that truck - & it is still running). Because I was installing in the rear (no extra room by the fuel tank in my 38’ Monaco), I needed a longer return hose than what was provided. After calling around, I called FASS and had them ship me a 50’ roll - I was glad I choose that length I only cutoff about 6’ - so I 45’ would have worked. The vent check value and bung fitting looked like 1/2” - but it turned out to be 3/4” - oh well another trip to the hardware store. For the electrical, I found a ignition in the terminal fittings then I used that to drive a relay, which powers the fuse block on the left side. The FASS fuse is in that block. The ecm fooler relay is added on the top right. Here is the installed pump. One note, the factory installed flare or AN-8 fitting for the return to tank line, I wanted to change it from a straight to a 90 pointed down, so I called FASS, and they said no- there is a spring behind that fitting that controls the pump pressure. So the blue hose just has a tighter bend than I would prefer. I just reused the original fittings into the FASS pump for the input and output. Finally, I installed a pressure gauge and the secondary filter. The electrical pressure gauge for the cockpit will get installed next week - when it arrives. It worked the first time - No leaks ! One cool thing is if the fuel cap is off, I can see the stream of diesel fuel falling from the return to tank Thanks for all the good information in the thread!

I had something like that happen to me. On my rig - 2000 Dynasty, the power for fans, radio & 12v outlets comes from a second solenoid on my “salesman switch”. The lower right side has 2 continues duty solenoids (silver) that are both controlled by the salesman switch. One goes to my house fuse box, and the other goes to my front chassis fuse box - I have a line of fuses - radio, 12v outlet, fans, etc. That’s the one that died on me. When you checked those fuses - did you check that they were receiving 12v power? I doubt it’s the ground bar, because then gauges and other stuff would be having problems too. I have one ground bar just under the dash - there is a removable panel on top of the dash for access to the back of the gauges and ground bar I ended up replacing both of the solenoids on the salesman switch with Victron smart Battery Protect-65. (BP-65). They use less power when running - plus if the battery gets low - they turn off. The salesman switch on my rig now does nonthing. Good Luck

Tom, on you ladder pole mount, what items did you use to do that. I like the idea of getting it even taller. thanks

You will have to abandon the old monitor. I put the new one over the old one. One big advantage is you can add multiple monitors. I reused some of the wires. Sealevel only needs 2 wires between all three sensors and the control panels. The old ones had 6 wires.

I don’t have the Aladdin system. I replaced mine with the Sea-Level system. I just posted pictures. The best part for me is I got a second control panel and installed it in the Wet Bay. That way I can easily see how the filling of the fresh water or the rinsing of the black is going). Good Luck

Like Bill I have a 2000 Dynasty 38’. I opened the cover on the passenger side as well. I had my nephew make a small wood riser to put the sealevel plate over the old gauge area. I re-used the old wires (didn’t need as many). Plus I got a second control panel and put it in the wet- bay (That has been one the best parts of this upgrade - knowing the status of the tank when filling water or rinsing the black tank has been awesome!)

I use a external keyboard & mouse on all my computers. I like a slightly ergonomic keyboard. That may enable you to keep using it. ps - you probably need a new computer too.

The previous owner put Yokohama’s on my rig, they seemed fine - so when they aged out I replaced them with the same. 4 years - no problems.

A year ago, I had a pepwave router from Mobilemusthave.com. I have a Verizon SIM card. With their best antenna on the roof. It really works well. (and still does). The big advantage of the roof antennas is in marginal signal areas, it picks the signal up much better! (You can use any SIM card in them - you can even have 2sim cards running at the same time). I now have SpaceX Starlink and I really LOVE it! The only issue is you have to have great northern sky view. I put it on the roof of my rig- I have one spot in front and one in the back. Both spots tie to a solar panel frame so the wind won’t blow it over. I also bought the 150’ cable, so if I park under a tree I can hopefully find an empty field close. Right now I am keeping both going, but the only time I use the Verizon sim is when we are driving (and I usually don’t need it because the phone gets good signal).

We decided to replace one of our A/C heat pump units. We have two - each has its own thermostat. we replaced the rear one with a Rec-Pro 3800. It was not an easy replacement because of the a/c ducting in the roof that we wanted to continue to use. And the bolts are in different places. I have it connected to the inverter breaker panel - so I can run it off the inverter (Multiplus 3000) - it does run with no problems because it has a built in soft start. But it does use a large amount of power -

My 2000 Dynasty it is in the rear electrical panel.

Search Amazon Suburban 050733 Duct Cover Plug if you want the part premade.

That is my generator hour meter. In my rig - the original plate was about 1/8” aluminum. I could have cut the hole in the new plate exactly- but I thought it would have looked funny, Plus because I didn’t want to unplug the other wires I was using my Dremel tool while sitting on top of the passenger seat. So I just made the hole large enough for the wires and added a wood spacer to prevent the SeaLevel circuit board from hitting the aluminum of the original panel

I did the same install sealevel 2. I got their remote panel and put a panel in my wet bay (one of the better upgrades!). Plus the regular panel in the rig. I see the grey and black tank in about 4% levels - 25%, 29%, etc. The Fresh tank is about 3% levels. You can see the green stick-on levels. I just reused some of the wires (didn’t need them all). I added a wood spacer to mount the new gauges (that was the easiest way for me). Good Luck!

I believe what the original poster is doing on the batteries is making a Lead+ Lithium hybrid battery pack - connecting 2 lead batteries parallel with 3 lithium batteries into one large house bank. There seem to be some pro’s - but…

No. The switch I was talking about is the little wire loop on the bottom left side of the Victron DC-Dc charger. If the wire is not connected then the Dc-Dc charger does not run. So if you run it through a relay that is driven by the ignition wire, then the only time the chassis battery can try to charge the house battery is when the ignition is on (and thus the alternator is running). Look closely in the Install manual and it talks about it. FYI - you will still have the loop when the alternator is charging- the alternator is producing 14.3v - so the (other) Dc-Dc charger starts to charge the house batteries - when the house batteries get to the turn on voltage they start charging the chassis batteries, and thus you have the loop that is draining power at 13% each. But in this case the alternator is a large enough power source it can handle it.

Two items of caution. Make sure you understand not only the pro’s of the Lead + Lithium power bank - but also the con’s. And how to spot the issues as they arrive. Also if you have two DC-Dc chargers going in opposite directions- make sure you have the charging allowed set-up correctly. What can happen if both are running at the same time is you will lose 13% of the power on both sides as you make a loop - and with both being on - it just keeps going. If they both just run off of voltage when the house gets to the turn on level (because of solar), it starts charging the chassis, then a bit later the chassis gets to turn on level and suddenly you have a loop that is just draining away power. On the chassis side you probably need to run the wire turn-on switch through a relay that connects to the ignition - that way you don’t have the loop. There is an interesting YouTube on a sailboat that is using the Lead+Lithium battery bank. I found it interesting- but I am not going to do it.

This is how I did it… It is kinda hard to see - I took a 2”x3” board and cut it to fit the bottom of the window and the screen/window. Added some weather stripping and a hole for the cable. Then painted it black.

The cable is included - it is a 75 feet and it has special plugs on both ends. Thete is also a 150 foot available too.

If going in the summer - stay North… If going in the Winter - stay South… I would think that heat beats out elevation in the summer. Maybe I-90 across. When you find a mountain in front of you - just get behind a fully loaded semi. He will be going slow and if you match his speed you won’t overly tax you engine- or pass him. When going down use the same gear you went up. On the fuel - that’s a state tax thing… Ask in the state if you qualify for the cheaper fuel. The fines are not worth the mistake.

Here is how I store the Starlink when moving. I had to modify the old tv area to get the blinds to work, and the Starlink fits just right. This is how I attach the Starlink to my rig, there is a 1x2 that I attach to the solar mount. I have a spot on the rear and the front. I just run the wire to the passenger side window and then I added a board to get the wire in The router lives in an upper cabinet

I removed it - wiggle the lens up and it pops out. There is probably dirt preventing it from wiggling up.

That space is totally useful… it holds my Jeep flag and a 1” x 2” x 48” mounting board for my Starlink. see just what it was intended for… I had it out when I was redoing the water/sewer gauges. The ironic thing is the space it takes up could’ve been used for bigger tanks or a redesign and the sewer hoses.