Craggar

It was a 1.89 a litre CDN yesterday here in Alberta 😞

No shortage here yet and like Jim said gas is up and down but diesel is just up.

I think it might need to be programed for you application. If so the best thing to do is call an Allison dealer and see what they say.

I got over 20 years out of my original steel tubes and just replaced them this fall before a cross country trip. Stainless is nice but steel was good enough for me since I don't think the m/h has another 20 years left in it. If you do that you can get a local shop probably to do the bends and bungs for you or if you weld you can just buy the bends and bungs and do it yourself. It will be much cheaper and turn around should be pretty quick as well.

Unfortunately it is the same in every industry, very few young trades people are more than just parts changers these days. And, if you're a small business and find a good one the chances of keeping them are almost nil. The large companies can offer so much more usually that it's hard for them to say no when offered a job. Then when they go there the big companies don't see as much profit in trouble shooting so they are taught to be parts changers. That was one of the reasons I shut my shop down and moved on to something else.

You can bend the spring and put wedges in between the coils until you get enough length to put it back on then just lower the jack and they will fall out. At least that's how I have done when I replaced the springs in a previous m/h. I'd be looking for why it came off though, usually they are tough to get off unless they are really wore out.

Looks like a circuit breaker to me and would go to positive.

In here might have what you need. https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/24-wiring-diagrams/page/2/

My pass, side was doing that and it was thishttps://www.wiperparts.com/products/300637-single-knurled-driver-3-8-double-flat.

Makes much more sense now. When you first said it was at the rear of the coach I think everyone probably assumed it was the engine driven pump which feeds the fan motor and power steering. I think most coaches have the pump and tank for leveling at the front. You will be fine by unplugging it.

If you have a grill on the drivers rear it's a side rad and from the pictures I saw online of 2015 Dynasty I think you have a side rad. The fittings I have used are done by hand with wrenches and still could be impossible to do without taking the line off if there isn't enough room. As far as taking it to Decatur, is it not leaking and did Monaco say that no damage would be done by driving it there? I would still see if you can find a mobile hyd. guy who can probably fix it cheaper and quicker then driving it to Decatur. Edit: Because I reread your first post where they said what it was for. I'm guessing Cummins put a cap on the fitting at the pump so you don't lose anymore fluid.

I've used Aeroquip fittings like those. You can order the from Summit or Jegs to name a couple places. A little tough doing the one in place on the vehicle sometimes but definitely doable.

Like everyone says, I think it's your hyd. for the fan and power steering but either again I agree that it should be doable to make an extension hose to repair it. As for your remark about them saying they should all be replaced I find that hard to believe being it's a 2015. Mine are just at that point now and are pushing 25 years old. Either find a small truck repair shop who are willing to work on just about anything or better yet either a mobile hyd guy or shop.

Yes thanks for posting this. I found it quite interesting as well.

Kudos on you for doing it yourself at 72, I just did my rear drums and shoes a couple months ago. Last year the price was 1/2 of what it was this for the parts. I was quoted $700.CDN parts and labor last year and it cost me almost $1,200. CDN this year.

Geeze, I might have to go buy a 3D printer now. 🙂

That's what I have to do with mine a couple times a year.

I didn't take any pictures but mine were really bad and I bought a cheap kit from Amazon just to give it a try before spending the money on new ones. I was totally surprised how well they turned out. For the cost and little time it takes might be worth trying it first.

I don't envy you having to take it out and am no help with that process. But like klcdenver said I would try something to patch it first. Permatex makes a spray as well that might be worth looking into. I used it on an oil pan and was surprised how well it worked. I almost didn't change the pan because of it but had the new one so I did.

I know, what was I thinking. lol

Strange that Monaco didn't do the same on all the coaches especially on stuff like that.

Both of my previous gassers had 2 salesman switches, one for coach batteries and one for chassis and I would just use that for storing it during the winter and never had problems. I guess I never had any other draws when it was shut off like you do. You can do what Bob suggested but I would try to find the draw as well. I actually have the opposite problem from you where my coach batteries go dead if I'm not plugged in and forget to shut off the inverter. My steps work off the coach batteries as well so maybe yours do too.

Do you have a switch in the rv that disconnects it? A lot call it the salesman switch.

I might do it that way next time but I have a two part kit sold by Thetford that I will need to use 40 oz.'s of it for my tank that I'm going to try this time. I already have one hose made that I use to put the antifreeze in the rv for winter so one more hose is easy and the plug for the pump is close enough I don't need to use a battery to run it.

Thanks for the speedy reply. I never thought until now I can use my spare water pump I keep in the rv.