Bob Schmeckpeper

Yes, dust happens.  You can get a couple of air filters from Walmart or your local hardware store. They do help. My sinuses tell me they help.  If you think it's bad were your at you should try Arizona sometime.  Lol

5 minutes ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Where in Arizona? We had our flooring done at On the Road Again RV in Payson. We are very happy with it.

 

We live in Gilbert, basically the greater Phoenix aera. 

Looking for recommendations for a shop that can do painting and or flooring? In Arizona.  

Here's what I just learned. 

My brother just explained this to me.  

It’s for an ISC or a ISL engine.. you have a B- 5.9 liter engine. Also a whole different fuel system. Won’t work for your set up.

The pump that JD posted won't work for my engine.  

3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ok then what I posted. Get rid of the problematic lift pump all together 

 

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Diesel-Fuel-System/UP95G-Heavy-Duty-Lift-Pump-for-Cummins-ISC-ISL-CAPS-Fuel-System

I can send some pics of the install if needed 

It won't download or open.  😢

3 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

Lots of us have had good luck removing it and tightening the 3 bolts that squeeze the gasket.  That fixed one on an ISC I owned.  Sometimes they leak through the electrical wire hole.  I don't know of a cure for that.

_Cummins-06T5-18-LiftPump.docx 3.38 MB · 13 downloads

Darn, won't download.  

3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ok then what I posted. Get rid of the problematic lift pump all together 

 

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Diesel-Fuel-System/UP95G-Heavy-Duty-Lift-Pump-for-Cummins-ISC-ISL-CAPS-Fuel-System

I can send some pics of the install if needed 

Thanks for the information.  Will have to look at that. Cummins is getting a pump to me tomorrow.  I  hope. 

I'm going to proceed with my old pump,  but at least I have a spare incase of a major failure.  

The labor was ridiculous. 

1 hour ago, Cubflyer said:

Bob S.

If that is a photo of your leaking pump, and it is not leaking on the ground, seems minor enough to continue... I unknowingly drove mine from South FL to Memphis with a pump leaking worse than that.... never mind if that is not a current photo...

ASAP, bypass that expensive pos with a FASS pump or FASS pump/filter system.....

Ken 

Yes I noticed it leaking onto the ground.  Not supper bad. I  decided to get the pump for a little insurance.  Better safe than sorry. I  have about 600 miles to go without a major town near by. The leak is not very bad right now. Hope it holds till I get home. 

Cummins labor estimate finely came through $850 labor & shop supplies, just about shit my pants.  Total bill very close to $1,300. 

Jd

Cummins 330hp 

Manufactured in 2020

Has anyone had to change the fuel transfer pump.  Ours is leaking. I ordered one from Cummins $$$ pricey little bugger. $480 + tax & shipping. Been trying all day to get a price for labor with no luck. So it looks like I will have to do it myself.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.  

If you happen to know a mechanic in Farmington NM.  Send me his number.  🙃👍

Going on the 3rd night at Sam's Club parking lot. 

Thanks ,we found what yiu were talking about and got the slid in. It is a lippert. 

Thanks 

Trying to help out a couple who are stuck in a Walmart parking lot.  He has a 2008 Holiday Rambler Vacationer XL. 34ft. 

His living room slide is hydraulic. He has 13.5 volts to the solenoid. When we hit the switch to move it in or out you can the solenoid click but the pump motor won't engage. The Reservoir is full. 

We have haunted all over for a way to manually move the slide in, but to no avail.  

Any ideas on how to get the slide moved in? 

The only thing I can think of is removing one of the hydro lines to the cylinder and pushing the slide in then blocking it so it can't move out. So he can get it to a shop.

Thanks for any help,  I'm stumped. 

8 hours ago, Gary M said:

Looks like the nylon spacer has worn allowing shaft and gear to back away. Is that a set screw outside the box that u could loosen and move shaft with gear closer?

No set screw, just a pin.

Picked up a washer today, to take up the slack, wouldn't you know it,  its just a tad to thick. Will try a 2 x 4 tomorrow. Till I can get a file or grinder. 

Got to come up with a redneck fix till we get home. 

James 

Thank you so much.  Were out till mid October. Got to figure out how to keep it going till then. 

Now I can at least start chasing the gears down.  

I  need to also try to figure out how to get the gears a little closer together.  Just riding on the the edge were they can jump when it gets worn down is not a good thing.  Maybe my machinist friend can help with that.  

Again a big thank you. 

Bob

Ok, so I can't read. Lol

When my wife read it she found the fix that I was working on.  

We have a 2001 Diplomat. The slides are gear driven. My back wardrobe slide is a worm gear operated system.  The worm gear is not meshing like it should and its damaging one of the teeth.  Is there a way to tighten up the gears so they mesh better? Here is a picture of the worm gear. The teeth are barely touching. When I  deploy the slide I'm getting a loud snapping noise when a certain tooth jumps a gear. 

18 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

The idea of replacement coach name badges (Diplomat, Camelot, Windsor) was discussed about a year ago here but I don't believe anything ever developed from that.  Please correct me if I missed it.  I haven't seen any of these particular names on anyone's website, including eBay, for many years.

A friend of mine owns a Camelot and is wanting to get some new badging produced. These are the names, and most of our coaches have 3,  (one on rear, one under the drivers window and one near the entrance door).   Since he's doing all this effort for the Camelot, he wants to include Diplomats and Windsors on this first go-around.   (It could easily grow into all the other Monaco Models, but he's more or less, testing the response now).   Set up costs and minimum order sizes really get the start up cost up there so I offered to help him try to get some feedback on demand.   He's absolutely not doing this to make money, but obviously would like to break even.  

My first question here is does anyone know now many Diplomats, Camelots or Windsors were built over the years?   

I'm also looking for someone that has an earlier Windsor (1999-2002 era), to either post a picture of your name badge or email a picture to me, possibly with a tape measure over it for a size reference. 

"bhoward27ataoldotcom"

If anyone would be interested in 1, 2, or 3 of these name badges (Sorry, only Dips, Camelots or Windsors right now)  for your coach,  you can email me that information as well. See email above.   We're trying to get a 'feel' for the demand.  He hasn't come up with any pricing yet, however. 

Thanks for the help.   I hope this comes together.

I have a diplomat definitely interested.  

I need the same information.  Read somewhere that there is led replacements. I think I seen them on Amazon just before we left. Do a search for Econoline taillights. Please let me know what you find.  ☺

11 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

That's exactly how our old Sig works. I dump only the bags, to get through the 12' door. It takes no time and only dumps the bags while holding the button. Once inside, plenty of room to air it up. I installed a rail for mosquito net in the door frame and that made opening lower but it is still worth it here.

Interesting, in our coach if i deflect the bags there not enough pressure left for the breaks and it would refuse to go into the building. LOL

That was my point.  A window, they should have told you before a full inspection. Once the window was fixed should not constitute a full re inspection just because you had to take it off the property for the fix. Thats called customer care. In my opinion you got screwed.  

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Bob, this thread is about airing down the air bags NOT the two air supply tanks which differs for each coach and system depending on how many leaks are present.

I can dump air in my air bags in less than one minute however the supply tanks will lose air slowly over a few days until they reach 0 psi.

Learn something new everyday, did not realize that there was a difference. That explains why it stops at about 30 lb.

We have a OLD blueox & a roadmaster what i call a lunchbox system. There a bit of a pain to put in and take out, but I only paid $50 ea. But thats what you get when your cheep. 

I have a 2001 diplomat, mine about 1 1/2 minutes.  At about 30+ - lbs. Thats were it slows way down.  I  don't worry about the rest. The coach is about as low as its going to get at that point.  The last 30 lb in are gone in a while.  

29 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

No base Plate on your road hawk setup? 

Ok found what I think you have, no base plate. I don’t know if they come in 1” wide tab and 1” pin size. 
 

So is the Roadmaster/Blue Ox like tue Ford/Chevy/Ariete arguments? Depends on who’s talking? 
 

 

They come in 2 sizes for the D rings.  Both roadmaster & blueox are top of the line towbars. Be sure the towbar is as level as you can get it when your aired up. I had to get a 6in riser for the coach since our jeep has a 3 1/2 lift with 35 in tires. Also don't forget the aftermarket bumpers don't have a place to attach the safety cables. Also do you have a break for the tow vehicle? 

Have the same setup on my jeep.  With a roadmaster Blackhawk. 

I prefer a tow bar that disconnects & stays with the coach.  My first one disconnected from the coach folded up and stayed with the car. 

3 minutes ago, John Haggard said:

But that's not the way it work's 

It's been that way for years.

There is a fail list.

Trucking companies spend bigs bucks on their fleet before going to any inspection. 

RVs have to do the same or pay once and then pay three .ore times 

Some call it racketeering. 

 

And that's why many states DROPPED THE REQUIRED INSPECTIONS 

So thats the way some companies do it and that makes it ok! Thats perty much sums up the world doesn't it? I'll take care of myself & if I can screw you in mean time, I will! 

Now if they did the whole inspection & found a bad ball joint then that's a different story.  You can't tell from the outside just looking at it that it has a bad ball joint.