FLynes

I got the quote from my locksmith… If I bring him the motorhome, which I will, then it’s $30 to make an impression and, once that key is made, it’s eight dollars per copy, so my total would be $46 plus tax. That, to me, is well worth the cost of not having to deal with the headache of taking that lock apart, buying some aftermarket POS made in China, and hoping that it will fit and work like my existing lock already does

Well, as simply as I can put it, because the lock works, and I don’t want to screw with it. I just need a key made. It’s not rocket science.

Respectfully, I’m done discussing this.

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

@FLynes

Did some googling…. Many other sites have comments.  Basically, if the motor is worn and does not “lock” it can “have second thoughts”. But more commonly the usual suspects.  If the motor is not going full cycle, then it “strangely” regrets extending and reverses.  

If you have the PN for the reverse harness, that would be great.  Please post.  Many posts said…the controller that they bought had to have the “magnetic” step position switch “reversed” as the older controllers worked backwards…

 @Al redcay….This is a problem that I can’t remember reading about here before…so some uncharted territory.  If you google enough, the majority is bad connections and water in the comtroller….not applicable with a new controller.. Lippert tech is gonna have to know the exact circumstances and if your magnetic door or extend switch is the right mode for  the new controlled..so, I suspect, you will need the new PN you installed…

 

The reverse polarity harness part number from Lippert is 365884. Here's a link where you can buy it.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Lippert-365884-Wiring-Harness-For-Kwikee-Steps-p/365884.htm

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Per the email…a “impression” must be made. The blanks can then, be cut.  You need a key to copy or an “impression” of the tumblers, to make the “key”…bases on  their positions..  Copied the sentence below.. OK…called the largest & oldest and most trusted Locksmith in the Raleigh area.  They have changed entire building lock systems for me as a Facility Director. I called, as you might, and read the Trimark email. YES, they can make an impression.  No, they do NOT have a master set of the random keys used for Trimark locks. Takes time and can be expensive.  He would not quote a price. Said that based on wear and age and abuse, might be cheaper to buy new lock; as some of the Trimark locks, were difficult and way not as easy to get a good impression as the more standard home locks…

Assume your locksmith can do such….that’s all I know….let us know how easy and the price….will leave it at that and not speculate anymore….

I would suggest going to a locksmith and see if they can make an impression of the lock cylinder to have keys made

When my locksmith did the exact same thing for our '76 Monaco two years ago, it cost me $70 for two keys and was well worth the price.

2 hours ago, Al redcay said:

 

My step goes in an stays in for 5 to 10 mins & then comes out , what does a reverse polarity wire have to do with that , 

No clue, I'm practically nil, when it comes to electrical. I spent the better part of an hour on the phone with the Lippert tech, who walked me through the process of eliminating what it could or could not be. The reverse polarity harness did the trick, and we haven't had a problem with our steps since then.

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Now we know.  Thanks.  Since you, I am assuming, might have removed the handle/lock assembly, I would  cross reference and do some online searches, Amazon included.  If there is a highly rated $40 or so model compared to a $140 or so Trimark replacement….then you have options .  I would also get a quote from a locksmith….why spend 50% of the cost of a new one to get a key for one that is old.  But…that’s me…let us know what you do and the results…sounds like you have a plan now…

Tom, there's nothing wrong with the latch/lock assembly, I just need the key made for the deadbolt. I ordered two KS201 blanks and, when they arrive, I'll have my locksmith cut them for me.

Here is the official response from TriMark:

2 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Mine are accessible through the unlocked LPG/Fuel Bay door but are NOT easily visible. You have to be a contortionist in order to find them.

Richard, it's a good idea but, having been in Military Intel and having ZERO faith in humanity anymore, I like to think like a scumbag criminal, and that's probably where I'd look first.

The funny thing about LED bulbs is that they're supposed to be the be all end all to power consumption and reliability, but I can truly say that I've replaced the LED bulbs in our house bathroom more than I ever did with incandescent bulbs. The only down side I can really see to the incandescents, and the reason why I would consider replacing the ones in our coach, is because they get so d*** hot.

30 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

Frederic, Just a suggestion: Have 3rd set of keys cut that you can hide somewhere on the coach, just in case of emergency.

Martin, great idea. The next biggest challenge would be to remember where they're hidden, LOL!

On 8/24/2023 at 9:42 PM, TomV48 said:

I found LED ones that fit in there and use like darn near no watts

Tom, do you have a brand and part number for these LED bulbs? Our LaPalma still has the original incandescent bulbs, and they get hot as hell, even though they still work.

Okay, I have an answer...sort of, courtesy of the winnieowners.

The Deadbolt key blank needed for the Trimark 030-0900 lock is the Trimark KS201.

The Latch key blank needed is the Trimark KS101.

I just ordered two KS201 key blanks and will have my locksmith cut them. The only thing that the lock itself has on the inside is the part number of the lock itself, there are no key codes inside. I don't yet know if the "1P" that's etched on the Latch keyhole will help the locksmith or not. If it doesn't, then he'll do what he did with our 1976 Monaco and cut them the old-fashioned way.

15 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

EDIT…

Fixed title.  I misread your comment.  I thought you meant that your Trimark keys were Identical and each worked the passage door lock as well as the bays.  Now, I am assuming that you DO have separate keys for each.  

The lock code was supposed to be on every lock…you meed to see  if there is a lock code for the deadbolt and order a new key.  FWIW….amy good or large locksmith can duplicate that style of Trimark.  i had a bunch made….end of edit.

Can’t ague that.  If you have 3 separate and now it appears @FLynes  has separate bay and passage…then the dead bolt is missing as long as he can identify and get keys…his call or replace the main door and salvage the bays…

Thanks, Tom. The only code on the lock is “1P”, but it’s on the latch keyhole, not the deadbolt keyhole…here are pics.

9 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Can’t ague that.  If you have 3 separate and he has one common with the Non Dead Bolt, and they are different years, that is strange, but not surprising.  The local plant manager or manufacturing manager had control over things like that and they may have run short…or maybe the OP wanted it that way.  2 keys 3 keys….dealer’s choice.  Monaco did all the elocks with the entrance and bays keyed alike and a stronger (household) style deadbolt.

as long as he can identify and get keys…his call or replace the main door and salvage the bays….  He needs info in the TriMark specific lock and key style….then decide.

Tom, I’m supposed to have three keys, like Martin has. Please read my above response to you.

8 hours ago, Happycarz said:

I’ll take that as a compliment. Thank you. 

It gets well used. I took factory delivery with 20 miles on the odometer and now have 86,000 miles on it. 
I have no oil leaks and find it easier to keep track of things if it is clean. And, having it parked at home makes it one step away. 
 

Now for the top side of the engine.
 

Harry, you are a man after my own heart. I was raised that a clean engine is a happy and healthy engine. When I was a young Soldier, my unit had Gama Goats, and mine had the cleanest, leak-free Detroit 3-53. Same thing, when I was a UH-1 crewchief. Every time I take any of my vehicles to the dealer for maintenance, everything gets thoroughly washed. It’s been my experience that mechanics put forth a little more effort, if they don’t have to get filthy in your engine bay.

My mom, who was a realtor, always said that you can always tell how clean a person’s house is by how clean they keep their car.

I no longer have FB....got rid of it five years ago, and it's the best thing I did for my mental health. In fact, the only social media I have is this site and the Jeep Forum, which I'm rarely on these days.

I'll call Brazel's on Monday. Come to think of it, was the 2nd battery a Workhorse option or a Monaco option?

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK, having read all this, I think the LaPalma is difficult from the bulk of the Monaco’s that our members have.  Trying to sort it out needs more information.  Do you have the Owner’s manual?  What does it say?  
 

My own logic would be tway that @Martinvz described.  One key for the dead bolt.  One key for the “non” Deadbolt lock.  One key for the bay locks….  IF that is what he means, then there are THREE SEPARATE and no interchangeable keys.

But, IF I read and reread @FLynes posts.  You have TWO, IDENTICAL TRIMARK Keys.  The fit the NON DEAD BOLT lock on the door and also the bay doors.  THAT scenario would have been the most logical and was what Monaco used on the rest.  The “pull” or passage door lock and the bay locks are keyed alike.  The DEADBOLT is a security Key, itself, and is different.  I cannot quite understand why Martinz has three keys, but again the manual describes the systems and the interchangeability of the locks.

The next Step….identifying your series.  I posted a Screen shot from Amazon.  You need to google or call Trimark and find out the lock or key style.  If your Trimark has a number?  There is a “key” code stamped on the lock. Trimark has great customer support.  There are 14 codes for the picture.  

But….you did not state if they are the “electronic” style.  If the lock is a non electric, then Amazon has replacements, or other brands, that look almost like what you posted.  Way cheaper…$26 & two keys.  

The next step, and I have done this is to find a reputable large Locksmith.  They MUST be an authorized Trimark dealer.  Most locksmiths have, like when there are only 14 numbers, a master set….  Many RV Dealers carry stock keys….but not all have all types.

Trimark with pictures of the lock faces, ID numbers….main & bay would be my first stop….or if your keys are the AMAZON, ORDER a whole set and send back what doesn’t work.  A locksmith can pick a lock, but your locks are “fabricated”, I think, in the lock housing.  So, no luck on the codes….measure and order a new lock….notch the kets and use the 3 key system like Martinz.

 

 

 

 

Tom,

     No, I have two different Trimark keys, one a 2001 for my bay doors and a 1091 for my main door "pull" latch. The 2001 key does fit into the deadbolt but it will not turn the lock. The main door lock is, per Trimark's website, part #030-0900 and is not electric in any way, shape or form. The only code is located on the bottom keyhole and it says "1P". I'll call Trimark on Monday and see if they can help, per your suggestion. Here's a pic of the latch and keys, which does not match up at all with the original pic I posted, sorry about that....between what I think I remember it looking like and what it actually looks like are two different things.....five concussions and a heart attack have really swiss-cheesed my memory....I've removed the pic I posted in my first post.

on edit: Tom, if you would, please, change the latch model in my title to 030-0900, instead of TM500...the TM500 is the bay latch model, not the main door latch.

For those of you Workhorse owners who have the optional 2nd chassis battery, where is it located and would you please post a picture of it? I’d like to add one to our W24. I think I know where it’s supposed to go, but I’d like to be sure. Thanks.

Okay, so I'm missing a key it would seem. Next question, there is a code that is only printed on the bottom keyhole...do I use that code to have a new key made for the deadbolt, or do I just have a locksmith cut a blank, using the deadbolt lock itself?

Is the baggage lock key supposed to lock the deadbolt (top keyhole) on the main door? I ask, because, while the baggage key does fit into the deadbolt keyhole, it will not turn, and I only have two Trimark keys. The bottom keyhole locks just fine with the key I have. The other key, the baggage key, does lock all of my baggage doors.

22 hours ago, nyrngrz said:

Thanks for posting this video. I watched it and like this device. Looks like I found a winner for my Workhorse Gas coach.

Tony, when you get yours, do a VIN scan...I'm curious how yours turns out. When I scanned mine, it showed up as 1GTJK33G34F202522, which is a 2004 GMC Sierra 3500. I wonder if it shows up like that, because I have the upgraded ECM and TCM from Brazel's RV.

2 hours ago, Martinvz said:

Now I’m jealous 

Martin, I would recommend you buy this gauge, as it is some thing all Monaco owners should have…I believe the one for DP owners is the ScanGauge D. The reason that neither Workhorse nor Monaco included more gauges is because they were too cheap and wanted to save money. Personally, I don’t know why I didn’t buy this sooner.

I love Amazon…

If anyone is curious, the LaPalma does NOT have them either. I was curious about this, after going up on the roof several weeks ago, and noticing that I was leaving somewhat muddy tracks on our white aluminum roof. I suppose Monaco figured that it was easier for the water to shed off of a radius roof, than it is to take the risk of a drain tube clogging, which makes sense. Funny enough, our 1976 Monaco Winchester (Class C) DID have a drain tube, and it was clogged when we bought it.

1 hour ago, nyrngrz said:

Thanks for posting this video. I watched it and like this device. Looks like I found a winner for my Workhorse Gas coach.

You bet! Kevin is a great guy and is incredibly knowledgeable about the Workhorse chassis models. As a matter of fact, I took my own advice and just bought one, using Kevin's Amazon link. It'll be here tomorrow.