Ali-026

Hello Everyone I've recently replaced the front HCV and used the drain port valve to empty the tanks. After this work, I've noticed a slight leak from the core of the drain port valve. Please note it's the center rotating part that is leaking, not the valve itself. Does anyone know the port size (1/4 NPT ?) for air drain and any possible replacement valve suggestions? Thank you Ali

I used one of the LEDs I have in my toolbox. Honestly I did not like it much with LEDs focused light, so I am going to keep this one as a spare and ordered a replacement unit from JR 🙂

No they are not sealed, I just replaced the bulb yesterday. If yours is Sigma, then push on the marked area and green cover will come out. You will see the bulb there, it is not even soldered, you just remove it and put a new one in. No they are not sealed, I just replaced the bulb yesterday. If yours is Sigma, then push on the marked area and green cover will come out. You will see the bulb there, it is not even soldered, you just remove it and put a new one in.

That was it 🎯 The 15 amp fuse in the #6 slot was the culprit. When I was inspecting the fuses I did not see fuses #5 and 6 as they were hiding behind a bunch of wires. After replacing the broken fuse with a new 15 amp, all is working again 😀 Jim, Richard, thank soo much for all your help. You guys saved me a lot of time and frustration. Interestingly I was just working on improving ground connections behind the dash few weeks ago when I noticed step well lights not working. I first checked FRB but overlooked #6 thinking it wasn't the fuse but me poking around the dash. I spent hours trying to figure it out. I am so happy that I was able to fix the issue now. Lesson learned: know your RV, know your fuses. If you are stuck, ask the good folks at Monaco'ers 🚍

I lost +12V for the step well lights. The switch provides the ground and there should be a constant +12V. I checked front electrical box for a blown fuse, but there was none. Actually there seem to be no dedicated fuse for step well lights. I've tried tracing the wires but could not see where they are going. Does anyone know where step lights get their +12V by any chance? Thank you Ali

Ivan - thank you much for well needed info on 2000 Sig. We have a 2000 Windsor and love the looks of Execs and Sigs. Bill - I hope when finished fun facts doc can be uploaded to the Library, and with some collaboration cover all Monaco make and models Frank - awesome input as well: - I checked 04 and 05 Sig brochures, and couldn't find any multiplex references, but I found this on 06 Sig/Exec/Dyn brochures: "Multiplex 12V wiring for dash and throughout interior of coach". - I confirmed 2008 chassis multiplex in Sig brochure and added to the document. Chassis multiplex shows up in 2009 for Dynasty and Exec, also updated in the doc. - I was surprised as well when I find out about 7' interior height starts in 2006 for Windsor and Camelot, and then 2007 for Sig, Exec and Dyn. All updated in the doc. - good catch on 500 ISL typo, it's now corrected - also updated 2008 ISL 425 DEF. Quick question: do you know what year Monaco's gets all DEF engines? Would that be 2009?

Hi Martin, sorry for not including LaPalma, one of our neighbors had one, it was a beautiful coach. I've started this document last year when we were in the market for an upgrade. One of our must haves was a side radiator, thus the reason for the narrow model list. I can share the original Word doc if anyone wants to use that as a template to cover other diesel/gas Monaco's or pre-2000 models.

I am not sure if this would be a good area to post this, but I was working on this document and wanted to share for your thoughts. I would also appreciate your edits and corrections. Thank you so much. Monaco 200x trivia.pdf

Ken, Chris T, Tom, Larry, Ken F - Thank you all so much for your inputs. You made some great suggestions. I had wandering and rut tracking issues on our 2000 Windsor since we purchased it from the previous owner 6 years ago. I've done a few things to improve handling which are listed below: replaced tires, weighed coach, adjusted tire pressures checked and corrected ride height front alignment done checked u-joints, all steering linkages and components for play, tried to adjust TRW replaced shocks checked trailing arm and panhard bar bushings (looked okay) annual chassis lubrication per roadmaster guide installed front watts link and rear cross bars replaced original TRW steering gearbox with a reman one from Weller (actually did that twice) I heard good things about Josams and I wish we were on the east coast so I can take the coach for an expert mechanic inspection (We are located south of San Francisco) Today I've decided to try a few things on the steering gearbox and steering column. First I re-checked all u-joints and splines on the column making sure no play there. Then I wanted to re-tighten adjustment screw following TRW lash adjustment procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DysQgR1tpBs I was surprised to see the adjusting screw only moved about half a turn and gets stuck either way (jam nut was loose). It was strange that it did not move beyond that either to loosen or tighten. I double checked the timing mark on the sector shaft and it was spot on. I then decided to disregard TRW's instructions and started the engine, tried again, same, only moves about half a turn. Something was not right. I've then reached up to the input shaft of the steering gearbox and jiggled it left and right while at the same time trying to loosen the adjustment screw. To my surprise, although it was hard, i was able to loosen it to about full turn. I turn the engine off, and checked free play again on the wheel and now it was about 2 inches. I was able to make it worse 🙂 Next I've tried tightening the screw with engine off, again it would not budge beyond perhaps quarter turn. I've started the engine again and wrestled with the screw about 45 mins jiggling the darn input shaft and trying to tighten the screw, only able to tighten it tiny bit of a time. At the end I was really tired but I was able to bring it back to where it was and 1/8 of a turn more than I've started. Play on the wheel is now 3/4 of an inch. Next, I am going to try this procedure with a helper. I will have my wife to jiggle the steering wheel while I will try tightening the screw a bit more if I can. I am hoping perhaps I might be able to reduce the lash down to 1/2 inch at the steering wheel. From now on I will try adjusting the screw with engine running. Those TRW instructions somehow does not work on our box. I am not surprised because 2000-2001 Windsors are a bit oddball, those are the only years with slip rings on the column instead of a clock spring. I think we end up getting some strange TRWs as well. As always your thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you Ali

Hi Barry, thank you for the link. I am now thinking obtaining zero play might depend on the TRW model. I have a TAS65028A and I've called Weller and they told me it might not be possible to achieve zero play on this model. Hi Brad, it's actually both. The video was taken with engine off where it's easy to measure free play. I can feel the same play when I am driving as well. On a straight smooth road, I can move the wheel left and right about an inch and the RV stays put. Similarly if I hold the wheel steady when driving and the motorhome wanders slightly left or right depends on the road and wind, and I will need to make constant corrections to keep it within the lane.

Hello Fellow Monaco'ers There is one inch free play on the steering wheel of our 2000 Windsor with 37k miles on the clock. We have got a TRW box from Weller installed couple months ago and did the steering lash adjustment but unable to reduce the play to less than one inch (please see video below). Would this be normal for our coach? Any suggestions on how to reduce free play would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Ali monaco.mp4

Thank you so much. These are some great steps to follow for an awesome driving motorhome. I will continue working on our Windsor and tackle these items soon.

Hi John, Were you able to get all the lash out on the input shaft? I have a TRW TAS65028A on our Windsor, actually this is our second one. The first one, TRW as well, I could not get all the lash out, so I've replaced it with a Weller reman one. After replacement, everything centered, adjustment screw tightened all the way, and still about 3/4" play on the wheel, so the same problem. I called Weller, they did not have any suggestions, and they did not confirm that its possible to get all the lash our -like you said. So, I am thinking we might have an older TRW model which can only be adjusted only to certain degree, but not to zero lash.