RSchlicht

Thanks go out to the crew at: Hurlockers Truck and Trailer Repair 395 Stearns Dr Graham, NC 27253 hurlocker4@gmail.com (336)964-8153 Rick and Kathy are the owners and have a great reputation in the area. They have great equipment and expertise on their payroll! They are fair and very reasonable with their rates, and they are flexible with the based on their customer's needs. https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=hurlockers truck and trailer

Rebuild was a success! The motor works great, with new bearings, seals and bolts!

Got the motor back from the hydraulic shop all cleaned up and ready to install. Here are the photos of the cleaned up motor and nameplate. Bench test went well, next step will be the technicians reinstalling the motor.

The bolts that were broke were not the mounting bolts, they were the bolts holding the motor together. I will post more once I have the unit back from the hydraulic shop. Thanks for your feedback. I just couldn't see how the bolts were stressed, other than from vibration or possibly product defect. If you see the photo I attached above, you can see the bolt is on the face of the motor and was facing the fan. The older broken bolt was burried even deeper behind the hub, so I was theorizing movement or torque on the shaft from a bearing issue or something. I will post an update once I have feedback from the hydraulic shop.

Thanks Tom! I sure appreciate the wealth of information!

Latest Update 6/22 The service techs just got the fan motor off and discovered that two bolts on the face (fan side) of the motor were broken off. One of the missing heads looks fresh, and the top of the bolt was recovered in the fan shield, and the other looks old based on the amount of grime over the break. I have no idea how they would break off like that, but they would sure explain a break. The motor is off now to a local hydraulic shop to see if it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. Thanks everyone for your input, I will keep you posted on the findings. We are happy to have progress now after 4-days into this but as most of you seasoned full-timers know, every day brings a new adventure. On the replacement front, I have taken everyone's input and my research and found several options which I will share as soon as I have time. The prices and delivery times have quite a range.

Great photos, and very helpful information! Thanks also for the call! It sure looks like yours is way more accessible than on the '09 Yorkshire. I will research the new numbers, but doublechecked the numbers I had against my paperwork and found them to be correct. I will attach the Data Card for reference. Thanks again for the call and the assist! Monaco Dynasty Data Card.pdf

Thanks for that information Rick! I called Advanced Fluid Systems and they are tracking down inventory for me right now. They said the Dynamatic number you gave me is a current cross to the Sauer number I have but he is not seeing inventory anywhere, so they will check Europe and let me know tomorrow. Thanks again, and it's another option for us! Have a great day.

Sorry, I didn't include my phone (612)500-3675 - I always think it's in our directory entry. We just got to a shop that is working with a local hydraulics shop to try to help us. The Cummins shop wouldn't work with us because we are on a Roadmaster Chassis and Freightmaster works on those. We called Freightmaster, and they won't work on RV's. I was able to drive 4-exits up to their shop, they topped off the reservoir and with a little effort, was able to make it into their yard. It's not the pump, but the fan motor that is leaking around the shaft. The UK supplier says they don't have stock currently, so we are continuing our search while the techs here are working to remove the part to see if the hydraulics shop can rebuild or not... In checking the inventory sheet I do have the part number for the fan motor. It is a Sauer 551101308210. Thank you for that, I should have checked there first! Never ignore the obvious - must have been the stress of the situation getting to me. The fluid leaking is clear and the techs tell me it's power steering fluid.

While driving, I noticed power steering going out and pulled into the first rest area I saw. Three days later, we are still stuck at the I-85 Alamance County Southbound Rest Area in North Carolina near Burlington and Greensboro. We haven't been able to find any service facility able to help us with this issue and without cooling fans or power steering, we can't drive on. Without a service garage willing to take us, we don't have anywhere to tow to either... Third day and counting! Does anyone had any experience sourcing the hydraulic motor for the side radiator fans? Ours is leaking fluid around the shaft. Most people I have talked to say a rebuild with that symptom won't work because it's most likely the aluminum is worn causing the leak. So far, Northwest RV Supply is the only place I've found a similar part, but they get it from the UK with a 7-day lead time. Any direction or assistance with this would be most appreciated! They are calling me "Rest Area Ron" around here! Thanks friends! IMG_1104.HEIC

Thanks for all the input!!! It took me the better part of the day but I was able to tear the door down and make the necessary adjustments to the rods using doth the length adjusting nut. I also made slight adjustments to the length of the rods going to the top and bottom latches. Now the door pops open with very little pull on the outside handle! Reassembly of the door was a little tricky but starting on the bottom and working upward proved the best for me sliding the vinyl in as I worked upward. The panels on my door did not match the ones in the photos and videos in previous posts so I will upload some photos of my door to this thread. Thanks again! Ron

Thanks for directing me to the downloads! They are very helpful. I'm trying now to figure out how to open the door panel, as the Dynasty is different from the diagrams in all of the downloads. But I'm learning! Thanks again!

When trying to open the entry door from the outside, the door won't open. If you use the handle on the inside the door opens just fine. I have tried adjusting the top and bottom posts, but am not able to get the right adjustment to fix the problem. I have hear from others that REV has made adjustments for owners at Rallys to fix this issue, but for the life of me, I'm not able to figure out how to fix this on our rig. I have also found a wire wrapped around one of the metal rods inside the door, so I asuume the previous owner struggled with this issue as well. I am looking for diagrams on how to open up the door panel more or if there are fixes for this issue. Any help would be most appreciated! Thanks!