Gerry f

Michael, Since you said that the light's were getting dim, it sounds like you may have a bad ground somewhere in the light circuits. I have converted all of my exterior lights to LED's. Didn't have any issues until I changed the front turn signals to LED's. They did not want to flash. I just added a load resistor to the both the left and right rear turn signal lines. I put the resistors on at the rear because it was easier to get to and more room to work. You can find the LED load resistors on Amazon. Very cheap. Just make sure that they don't touch anything the might melt as they can get hot. As you can see by IMG-4515 they do get HOT! That fixed everything. You are correct that the LED's draw so little current that the flasher unit does not want to work correctly. But the load resistor on both the right and left turn signal lines will fix that. Good Luck, Gerry Faulkner 2007 Executive Sandia IV

I had one leaking on my 2007 Executive Sandia IV. I replaced all 10 of them. They were all the same part number just the air fittings were different from the front and the rears.

I experienced that same problem with a 2000 Diplomat with a PAC brake on a Cummins ISC engine. The PAC brake would engage and when I tried to accelerate the valve would not open up to let the exhaust flow freely. I usually had to stop the engine and occasionally would have to open the engine access in the closet and manually open the PAC brake valve. If I lubricated the valve with a non oil base lube and seemed to help. Anything with standard oil will just burn and jam the valve even worse. Just my 2 cents worth.

If you are running 350psi at an idle then you are much higher a faster engine speed. That is MUCH too high for the compressor! The high pressure switch will shutdown the compressor to try and protect it. Pressure that high will cause the compressor shaft seals to blow out. The short cycling of the compressor will damage the compressor also. I had exactly the same problem. Very high on the high pressure side and low on the low pressure side. First check to see if the condenser fan is running at full speed. If it is then if you have a TXV at the evaporator then it has most likely failed. That was what happened to me. If you have a orifice tube and the condenser fan is operating properly then the orifice tube is probably clogged. Just be aware that any time you open up the system that you should replace the receiver/dryer and you must pump down the system with a vacuum pump for at least 30 minutes and insure that it will hold a -29.9 level for at least 30 minutes with the pump off. Charging with 150+ psi of nitrogen and seeing that it holds the pressure is also a very good test for leaks then pumping the nitrogen out to -29.9 again before adding R134a. Be careful to not overcharge the system. Just my experience. Gerry Faulkner 2007 Executive Sandia IV

I have a 2007 Executive with the factory Kenwood Navigation system option. As anyone that has this system is aware, the map updates have not been available from Kenwood or Garmin for a number of years. Does anyone know of a replacement for the KNA-G510 system that is compatible with the Kenwood LZ-702W dash monitor? I don't want to throw everything in the trash if there is a current replacement for the KNA-G510. Thanks, Gerry Faulkner 2007 Executive Sandia IV

Yes. the diode D3 is connected across that pump leads. Was able to locate a MOSFET to replace the bad Q18 and got a diode from the local tv repair shop. The Engine Preheat pump now works! I did observe an interesting fact. The engine preheat pump will not start unless the Diesel and/or Electric boiler heat is on. Thanks for the help. Gerry Faulkner 2007 Executive Sandia IV

I have a AHE 100-04S system. Everything is working properly but the Engine PreHeat (EPPUMP). It appears that Q18 burnt up and D3 is shorted on the controller board PN ELE-PC4-010 Does anyone have a schematic for the board or know of anyone that can repair these boards? I would like to have the part number of D3 if anyone has it. I have ordered a new Q18 but the diode has no part numbers on it. I hate to buy a new board if this one can be repaired since the failure seems pretty simple and straight forward. I have measured the pump operating current and it's about 1 - 1.1 amps. The Q18 should have been able to handle that current with no problem. Just a weak part I assume. Thanks, Gerry Faulkner 2007 Executive Sandia IV

After weeks of playing hide and go seek for the fathom 4th controller, I finally determined that there was NOT one. Frank and Tom were right as usual! With the aid of a DVM, Fluke wire tracer and a oscilloscope I was finally able to find all the problems. It was a wiring issue. It seems that Dometic changed the wiring for the furnace controls in the AC control board. They also changed the wiring of the two black RJ11 communications cables from the control board. One of the figures in their installation manual shows that the communications cables are straight one to one and in another figure they show that the cables are crossed. What I discovered is that the RJ11 cables are crossed in both positions in the controller wiring. I also discovered that Monaco used a coupler for the silver satin communications cables that crossed them again. With all the communications cables crossing the 12 VDC that powered AC zone 2 and 3 was never getting to the AC control boards and the communications from the thermostat to zones 2 and 3 were never getting to the respective controller boards in the AC units.. After making all the cables pin 1 to pin 1 etc and getting straight through couplers the units all work. Connecting the proper wires from the AC control board to the correct furnace zone wires now all three systems and furnace zones work properly. The Nightmare of how this ever worked at all will always be a mystery. But everything is now working in the HVAC/AquaHot systems as far as the inside heating and AC is concerned. Thanks again for Frank's and Tom's assistance. I have certainly learned a lot about how Domectic, AquaHot and Monaco wiring all work together.

Still trying to locate the “brain” if the system. It is not in the basement ceiling with the other electronics. It’s not behind any false walls in any cabinet. I’m going to start trying to trace the thermo wires that are on the zones if the AquaHot controller this week. Will update this posting if I find anything of interest. Thanks to everyone that are giving me ideas.

I have a 2007 Executive Sandia IV I replaced all three of the Penguin roof A/C Heat pump units with Blizzard NXT's I also replaced the old thermostat with CCC2. Everything seemed to work okay until I tried to use the furnace in zones 2 and 3. Zone 1 in the front and kitchen works great. They would not come on. I read that there is a fourth Dometic controller (Brain) that also must be replace to get AquaHot to work properly. I have been unable to locate this magic fourth controller (Brain). Does anyone know where Monaco might have hid this unit. I looked behind the cabinet that is behind the thermostat that is on the back side of the shower and it was not there. Any help that can be provided would be appreciated. Thanks, Gerry Faulkner 2007 Executive Sandia IV 600hp Cummins