TedZimmer

@miacasa_2000 @Scotty Hutto Scotty and I finished up his beltline yesterday. It is definitely a time consuming task. Here are a few recommendations, hope this helps. -Make sure to use some kind of scaffolding. We used a scaffolding by metaltech, model number: i-ciscas. Dimensions are 29 inches by 73 inches and holds up to 1000 lbs. I am going to get two for when I do my beltline. If you google the scaffolding, it is on sale at northern tool right now for 199.99. You can get 5.00 off for entering your email address AND if you use rakuten, get 3.5% cash back. NOTE: when climbing up the side to get on the scaffolding, it is a little wobbly, however, when you are standing on the platform, it is nice and stable. -Definitely work in small sections, we did 6 foot sections at a time. This made it very manageable AND you wont have to worry about stretching. -As @throgmartin mentioned and recommends, use the stainless steel rivets AND proflex RV caulk. -When you pull away the vinyl cover that goes over the beltline, MAKE SURE to clean / scrape off ALL old caulk. This is the most time consuming / tedious part of the process. We used plastic scrapers, a knife, solvents to loosen the old caulk, etc. When using the knife, be VERY careful NOT to cut into the vinyl beltline cover OR the paint on your coach, take your time. -After you get all the old caulk off, make sure to wipe down all surfaces with denatured alcohol prior to putting the new proflex back on. -When installing the new stainless steel rivets, FIRST drill holes in between the existing screws, THEN install the new stainless steel rivets, THEN remove the old screws, THEN proflex over screw holes and rivets, THEN put vinyl beltline cover back over beltline. -When applying the new proflex, wear rubber gloves as proflex is hard to get off, you can also put mineral spirits on your finger to smooth out your proflex if your bead wasnt applied the way you like it. Hope this helps. These are some recommendations that stood out in my mind from yesterday. I will probably have a new video shortly from yesterday that will give you a visual of what was done.

I will need to pick up a set of these, thanks for the tip.

We recommend drilling new holes in between the existing screws so the rivets are going in new unrusted holes. The majority of the existing screws were rusted when we pulled them OR the heads broke off immediately due to rust. It takes a long time to remove the old caulk. We used a knife with a new blade (be very careful to not cut the paint), we also used the three in one caulk removal tool, and plastic scraper blades. We also starting spraying (de-solve-it, contractors solvent) on, let it sit for a few minutes, then finished scraping which cleaned it up very nice. The pro flex is very sticky and skins very quick after you put it down, Scotty had gloves on and also dipped his finger in mineral spirits as he smoothed it out.

My coach is the same as yours, I have a 2006 Camelot and my entire belt line covers the aluminum from the outside. We will be posting a video regarding this type of belt line soon. The tape sounds like a good idea:). Your exactly correct, if you have one leak, the water will run down the entire belt line rusting the screws. In my opinion, the entire belt line needs to be done to ensure no future damage occurs. And yes, the scaffolding makes a HUGE difference. I believe the scaffolding we used is 400 dollars at home depot. I have been searching on FB marketplace and have found it for 100 dollars used. I plan on getting at least one set, maybe two if I can find them cheap enough. We used two sets of scaffolding yesterday working on Scottys upper belt line and it was very nice. This is a great tip, thanks. We will do this on the rest of Scottys coach. @Scotty Hutto @NGADawgs