Belt Line Repair

[Scotty Hutto]

This week, Gary @NGADawgs , Ted @TedZimmer, and I got together to work on our beltlines.  Through the magic of the smart phone and Ted and Stacy’s @stacyhall editing and production skillz, we now have a video show how to (and in a couple of cases, how NOT to) repair belt lines.

Please note this is somewhat of a work in progress, and we reserve the right to edit out our mistakes, so feedback on how to improve it is welcomed.  I’m sure @throgmartin and @David Pratt will give us some pointers.  🤣

Sincerely, thanks to all the Monacoers, especially @throgmartin and @David Pratt for the help and guidance.

 

 

[RoadTripper2084]

Thanks that's a very helpful video!

Wondering if you worry about drilling "too far" as the drill seems to lurch as it clears the metal your drilling through?

[jacwjames]

Good video, it might give some people the confidence to try this themselves.  If nothing else everyone should inspect their belt molding.

I recaulked my entire coach in 2021 after finding a leak on my back passenger side.  Ultimately I found that where the rear cap mates to the roof, there was an uneven portion where the leak was and allowed water into the belt molding that went all the way down the back and some of the lower belt molding.  Most of the screws were completely rusted off.  After I repaired that area, including attempting to fix a large area of delmination, I stripped all the old caulk from the belt molding and redid it.  Luckily I was able to use scaffolding/platform to work off of to do the upper portion.

I tried to lay a clean bead restyle like in the video but I wasn't that good and ultimately just taped everything off, laid a bead, smoothed it out, and pulled the tape. 

[Scotty Hutto]

34 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Thanks that's a very helpful video!

Wondering if you worry about drilling "too far" as the drill seems to lurch as it clears the metal your drilling through?

Yes.  We were using a drill bit stop collar set at 1” but took it off to make the videos.

[Ivan K]

Good video, I did not know that some coaches have the vinyl trim inside the aluminum channel, mine is different in covering the aluminum from its outside. I also use a tape to keep the proflex from smearing wide. I like the scraper tool, whatever it is called, don't have one like that.

[TOBYLB4]

Great informative video. Wished It was done a couple months ago as I just spent 4k getting my upper belt done. Thanks guys I'll use it when my lower belt pops!

[Ivan K]

Wow, seriously 4K? Then this video is worth about $3800 after deducting the tools and materials.

[TOBYLB4]

Yes that's what it cost to get it done. I was 90% sure I could do it, but didn't want this to be a issue in the future. I see from this video I could absolutely do it. So when the lower belt line pops I will be doing it myself. Infomation is everthing. 

 

 

 

[jacwjames]

1 hour ago, TOBYLB4 said:

Yes that's what it cost to get it done. I was 90% sure I could do it, but didn't want this to be a issue in the future. I see from this video I could absolutely do it. So when the lower belt line pops I will be doing it myself. Infomation is everthing. 

 

 

 

When I did mine there was no visible signs of any problem with the beltline itself, I was chasing a leak.  I probably had +20 screws that were rusted off.  So I took the time to redo all of mine.  I wasn't in a hurry and spend 3 days doing it.  Working off the scaffolding was a lot better/safer then a ladder but it did take time

So my advice is that the beltline should be maintained, removing the old caulk/sealant and putting down new. 

[TOBYLB4]

Thanks Jim

[RBRODDER]

Thank you for the video, I have worked on parts of my beltline and need to finish the rest this spring/summer. A couple of things that I also did was placed a dab of sealant under the head of each rivet to help reduce the possibility of electrolysis from the dissimilar metals and then filled the heads of the rivets after pulling them to reduce the possibility of water/moisture entering the stem of the rivet. Great job in preserving your coach!

[Gsorenson]

Is there a reason that you can't reuse the screw holes? I just hate making swiss cheese.

[jacwjames]

That's what I did, just drilled them to the rivet size. 

I had a couple that were rusted off, just used a punch to push them through the hole. 

[Gweedo]

Great video, one question.  You said the caulking is very sticky, about how much time do you have to clean the excess off the coach.  

Thanks for the video

 

[TedZimmer]

On 5/18/2023 at 12:01 PM, Ivan K said:

Good video, I did not know that some coaches have the vinyl trim inside the aluminum channel, mine is different in covering the aluminum from its outside. I also use a tape to keep the proflex from smearing wide. I like the scraper tool, whatever it is called, don't have one like that.

My coach is the same as yours, I have a 2006 Camelot and my entire belt line covers the aluminum from the outside. We will be posting a video regarding this type of belt line soon. The tape sounds like a good idea:).

On 5/19/2023 at 8:35 AM, jacwjames said:

When I did mine there was no visible signs of any problem with the beltline itself, I was chasing a leak.  I probably had +20 screws that were rusted off.  So I took the time to redo all of mine.  I wasn't in a hurry and spend 3 days doing it.  Working off the scaffolding was a lot better/safer then a ladder but it did take time

So my advice is that the beltline should be maintained, removing the old caulk/sealant and putting down new. 

Your exactly correct, if you have one leak, the water will run down the entire belt line rusting the screws. In my opinion, the entire belt line needs to be done to ensure no future damage occurs. And yes, the scaffolding makes a HUGE difference. I believe the scaffolding we used is 400 dollars at home depot. I have been searching on FB marketplace and have found it for 100 dollars used. I plan on getting at least one set, maybe two if I can find them cheap enough. We used two sets of scaffolding yesterday working on Scottys upper belt line and it was very nice.

2 hours ago, RBRODDER said:

Thank you for the video, I have worked on parts of my beltline and need to finish the rest this spring/summer. A couple of things that I also did was placed a dab of sealant under the head of each rivet to help reduce the possibility of electrolysis from the dissimilar metals and then filled the heads of the rivets after pulling them to reduce the possibility of water/moisture entering the stem of the rivet. Great job in preserving your coach!

This is a great tip, thanks. We will do this on the rest of Scottys coach. @Scotty Hutto @NGADawgs

[TedZimmer]

1 hour ago, Gsorenson said:

Is there a reason that you can't reuse the screw holes? I just hate making swiss cheese.

We recommend drilling new holes in between the existing screws so the rivets are going in new unrusted holes. The majority of the existing screws were rusted when we pulled them OR the heads broke off immediately due to rust. 

58 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

Great video, one question.  You said the caulking is very sticky, about how much time do you have to clean the excess off the coach.  

Thanks for the video

 

It takes a long time to remove the old caulk. We used a knife with a new blade (be very careful to not cut the paint), we also used the three in one caulk removal tool, and plastic scraper blades. We also starting spraying (de-solve-it, contractors solvent) on, let it sit for a few minutes, then finished scraping which cleaned it up very nice. The pro flex is very sticky and skins very quick after you put it down, Scotty had gloves on and also dipped his finger in mineral spirits as he smoothed it out.

[BradBak]

Nice Job!

 

[jacwjames]

Back several years ago there was a thread on belt line repair, someone suggested using these https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=scraper&category=2082&current=1

Long handles scraper from Harbor Freight, the worked great.  Different widths.  Didn't mare the paint and pulled the old caulk right out.  I've used them for other things since. 

[Pduggs]

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Back several years ago there was a thread on belt line repair, someone suggested using these https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=scraper&category=2082&current=1

Long handles scraper from Harbor Freight, the worked great.  Different widths.  Didn't mare the paint and pulled the old caulk right out.  I've used them for other things since. 

I’ve used those too. Very effective in removing the old caulk. 

[Paul J A]

Over the years i have accumulated a few posts on belt line repair and C & P'd them in a file. 

They are quite lengthily, so i don't know if it is permissible to post here. 

If you would like a copy sent to you, please email me, and i will respond .  ackermanenter@aol.com  

 

[Scotty Hutto]

18 minutes ago, Paul A. said:

Over the years i have accumulated a few posts on belt line repair and C & P'd them in a file. 

They are quite lengthily, so i don't know if it is permissible to post here. 

 

You are quite welcome to post them as a file, or post the text in this thread. We’re all about sharing info, so long as it’s not copyrighted. 😉

[TedZimmer]

21 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Back several years ago there was a thread on belt line repair, someone suggested using these https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=scraper&category=2082&current=1

Long handles scraper from Harbor Freight, the worked great.  Different widths.  Didn't mare the paint and pulled the old caulk right out.  I've used them for other things since. 

I will need to pick up a set of these, thanks for the tip.

[Woody O]

Thanks guys for making the video.  I too now will be able to redo my beltlines.

[bekec1]

Appreciate the time you fellows put into making the video.

Thanks. 

[Gweedo]

What are you drilling into?  what is the rivet grabbing onto?  any electrical to worry about?

 

thnx again