747guy

My service guy used his compressor to the front and rear access points. That seemed to make a difference as the compressor performance picked up noticeably. He also blew out the line to the governor. when my dryer was changed a year ago the tech indicated the compressor was starting to push oil to the old dryer. The Coach has been sitting during our visit in rainy Paso Robles. I have started it daily and the pressure seems to build much faster than before. Will be on I 5 Monday to Red Bluff CA so will see how she behaves. cummins wants $2,300 for a reman. I found others on the web much cheaper. Firsttruckparts.com has them for 1,349. However they will not accept CC and asked for a wire transfer. No reviews on the website. Set off alarm bells in my head.

When starting, front tank is lower than rear. I had a new air drier replaced last year. There was a leak in a shark bite type fittting on the air dryer which I had them reset in Pendleton OR on our way south. now I am in Paso Robles and it is taking 5 minutes to get the low air alarm to go out and release the park brake. while enroute, ii had the low air alarm come on for about 3-4 minutes, but the pressure on both tanks shoes above 75. Air gauge is badly calibrated and hard to figure out exactly what the pressure is. no sounds of air leaking like I had with the loose shark bite fitting????

One of the best instruction videos I have ever watched. Kudos

My friends with power slides hate them when they see how quickly I pull my manual slides out. I suspect you have a poor install as suggested by others.

How did you remove the unit from the Coach? Two screws at the bottom and then tip upwards to remove it from the track? I read in another post about sliding the unit towards the front to get it out of the mounting track? also my end caps have NO screws, so I assume they clip in place. Do you remove the end caps before removing the unit? thanks for your insight.

Sorry about the confusion. It is the OTD awning and it is a Carefree Marquee. the motor runs but the reel does not wind in the awning. I got the information from the outboard piece on the right bottom corner. no panic as I am not going anywhere till April

My problem is the motor runs but will not retract. I suspect it is a Carefree product on my 2006/2007 Camelot. The main awning is Carefree.

Thanks Bobkat

Well it appears the problem is solved thanks to all the help and I now know that my Coach is not a 43 and it was sold as a 2006 but is a 2007 model. 🙂 Switched wires on the double pole breaker and voila my Centre unit fired right up. I have learned a ton from all of you that posted. Thank you.

Well first of all my humble apologies for calling my Camelot a 43 ft when indeed it is a 42' 11". Old habit about bragging how big your boat is I guess. 🙂 The next thing to deal with is the year. My bill of sale says 2006 Camelot VIN 1RF43561862040273 It is a bath and a half and I was suspicious this may have been a one of a kind show coach for 2007 built in 2006 because of other irregularities I kept finding in the Owners Manuals. Yes I do have 3 AC units and 3 sensors and 1 5button CC Thermostat The Centre AC unit is NOT wired to the EMS system as the front and rear unit are indeed using the Intellitec system. The breaker is double pole 20 amp shared with the water heater. I have been on the roof and the blower spins freely. Upon checking the output of the breaker there was no voltage even though the breaker reset after a couple of pushes, but no click. The water heater side of the breaker measures 120V. So, I have ordered a new breaker from Amazon for 23bucks. Tom suggested I remove the black wire lead from the breaker that apparently has failed and switch it to another breaker for the front AC. I have not done this yet to prove that the #2 unit is operating properly, but then thought why not just use the water heater side of the same breaker, of course turning the breaker and the switch off for the water heater.

A good suggestion was made to plug into the 30 amp plug at my site which I will do and watch the EMS for high amp draw. I will do this. I also have separate 20 amp breakers for each AC unit and 3 sensors and one CC 5 button thermostat. A suggestion that it could be a start capacitor if the motor turns freely. More checking to do. Will report and thanks for the help.

OK thanks EVO, I now have tried it in COOL mode and NOTHING is happening......no blower no compressor and breaker has not tripped? I did not climb up to the roof but will get a neighbour to help me with that later today

Thanks Vito, I have ALL 3 untis on the 5 button CC thermostat. I just reset the 20 amp breaker and turned the other 2 zones OFF and then selected FAN ONLY both HIGH and LOW and nothing happened. The fan did not come on nor did the breaker trip? What do you think?

Is there a method to prove what caused the trip, as I suspect either blower motor or compressor is causing the problem. I just replaced all 3 of the fairings on my units as they were cracked and in poor condition. I understand that I can order a new replacement Penguin11 from Dometic and also a conversion board in order to operate with my CC thermostat 5 button model. However, before doing so, I would like to keep the exterior profiles of the fairings the same. So my thinking is, if it is a blower motor replacement I would like to replace. So any input in proving motor or compressor before I make the next decision. In reading all of Tom's postings on the eventuality of changing to the CC2 system, I am trying to delay to the point of doing all 3 at the same time. The Coach has never been fulltimed or even spent a lot of time in climates requiring daily AC. But on arriving in Indio this year a bit early, I felt 104 degrees and this is when #2 quit. So many decisions to make going forward, but I am hoping it is a blower motor at this point. I am 82 and climbing up on the roof is a bigger chore than when i was 72.