Trevor and Laura

Hi, I like the idea of those little battery monitors that Bob, (cbr046) added, I would like a$! u me that one could find an existing coach and chassis power source in the front to use? Something else to add to the list.. Cheers

We may be into that oh cupboard and the awning controller again as one of the window awnings that was slow now seems to have died, luckily it's 90+% in.. We have successfully adjusted the "out" limit of the patio Girard and it stops before the arms lose their tension/lock .. Thanks to all for your help and support Laura and Trevor

I was thinking there would be slip rings in the middle of the 50A cord reel, which needs lots of help to rewind.. So does the check valve come into play if you are using the 12v pump? nice and automatic, would you have to go to a ball valve every time? Trevor

I was just reading this thread and do not understand the symptoms of the failed check valve and why replacing with a ball valve would be a good solution.. we are in the gaining knowledge phase of owning our 2006 Dynasty and will be for a long time.. I think of rotary unions and slip rings failing as well.. hoping someone will take a minute. We don't have any plumbing stuff, yet.. Thanks Trevor & Laura

I think Girard offer 2 styles of replacement 12v motors, thankfully a new 10A "dc" fuse got it running, but what a place to locate it, no mention in our manual or wiring dias and then having to remove the cabinet door to get to it.. Girard, Jeremy, was very good.. Now to adjust the big one... Trevor

Hi David, should be a picture, it is a Girard, spoke with Jeremy at their Alabama facility, he thought it likely to be 12v, when I finally found the well hidden Intellitec controller there was a fuse identified as pass frt awning, 10A, it had blown, replaced with a tested new one and we again had a functioning motor, but with the fabric ripped at the front that end is not fully retracted, hopefully okay for travelling? Since the damage is at one end we are hoping to have the fabric repaired, maybe only losing a couple of inches.. Pity we cannot use the same crank as the big awning, which is 115v and auto, with a working wind sensor... Trevor

Thankyou David, All information is good, our door awning is 12v, no place for the manual crank, Girard tech said to look for a rubber plug on top and then to use a 7mm Allen key, we will be removing / replacing fabric back home. Reading the manual I think our patio awning is going out to far, I sense the arms locking, wish I was comfortable on a ladder.. Thanks again everyone

So, some motors do not use the crank, there may be a rubber plug on the top, go in with a 7mm hex key... good to know for an emergency.. Had to remove the door and supports to access the clicking Intellitec 12v awning module, door and 3 windows. Replaced a 10A fuse and we have a working motor again. Fabric is ripped at the front of the rail and that end is still out some. Have not run fully out yet. Laura hoping to salvage the fabric.. Did not see any mention of this in the manual and did not look for the other 12v awnings in the wiring diagrams.. Mobile tech is cacelled, $$$ saved can go towards fabric.. Regards

Okay, yesterday I thought we had the wrong manual crank for our Girards, but it fits into the big awning and works fine, but on the door awning there is no round hole for it to go into.. wondering now if something rotated in there when the motor stalled?? Have a call into Girard and that tech available tomorrow, about to take the door off of the cabinet with the ticks, hinges and supports in the way, same pics going to Girard. T

Can try Ivan, but don't think it will gain much, top is tight and behind hinges bottom is behind a lip and struts at the sides... Looking at the manual and we do have the crank that looks like their picture, will try it again now with instructions lol. T

Thanks Tom, our Girard patio awning is a G2000, and PO clearly identified it as 110v, our manual and wiring diagram says auto and connected to the wind sensor, which it is not.. we have no power, assume 12v, but the awning is not jammed anymore, but more out at the front than rear. We believe it is likely a G1500, but no documentation to confirm. We have removed the old Trac King controller and those clicking relays are definitely hidden up behind the Magnum remote, might there be a fuse with them? I am very nervous about removing that Magnum controller, should I be? We are on 50A shore power, so everything is charged.. think it will have to come out to remove the mounting board. Sorry, pics are upside down... If it's not a fuse then we have lost the motor? Think the rain is coming to an end here, will put the tech off till tomorrow.. Thanks

Stormy in Perry FL this morning, contacted a local mobile tech, still don't know where to locate fuse or how to manually retract.. he may be a waste of $$$.. Now pretty sure that the relay clicking is from cabinet above the D seat and behind the face panel that holds the Magnum remote, Aladdin switch and unused Winegard controls.. would Monaco have put a fuse behind there?? Any thoughts Thanks

Hello again, another cry for help, our door awning is usually left out, yesterday I was on my own and was going to clean the front of the coach ready for moving at the weekend. This awning is NOT automatic as described in our manual, there are in and out buttons on the upper of the 2 Intellitec panels on the back of the O/H cabs above the pass seat. The buttons are momentary, hold until it stops... this time it didn't stop and I held it on too long.. the front of the awning had not retracted by the big front cowling, while the back end had tried to keep going. There was now no response from the motor to relieve the tension on the fabric.. oh no.. we were able to tap the front end rearward and it did jump in some, but not completely closed or in-line, well done Laura.. Last evening I searched the wiring diagrams, #38040152, awning patio, door, front, would seem to apply, but ours is not automatic or hooked to the wind sensor. We can hear relays clicking, maybe over the drivers seat? Found 2 12v awning fuses in the FRB, 15 and 20A, both good.. searched through previous posts but could not find an answer. Hoping someone can confirm that this will be 12v and fused and where we might find it . Maybe what model of Girard so we can find a manual.. at this time if we could manually wind it in tight that would be good as well.. Many thanks Trevor and Laura With "Bella ", 2006 Dynasty 42ft Diamond 4

Thanks Ivan, will be working on my shopping list while in the US, read somewhere that a levelling valve would be good, are they a generic thing or Monaco specific? Not sure about your weight transfer theory, maybe you would expect a leak to cause a drop? (think weight transfer causing a lean would be a dynamic/cornering condition) Thanks again, Trevor

Hi Ivan, so far we have not had to deal with any air problems on our new to us Dynasty, but I have been reading and trying to prepare for the "when" it happens. You initially said that the drivers side dropped, but then the passenger side raised, and you fixed that, so did the DS not drop? We have gathered a few hydraulic bits but have no pneumatic spares yet and wondering if there are lists of suggested parts for the various models, hoping... thankyou so much for sharing. Trevor

Good news Everyone, our HWH slide switches are working again, many thanks to Tom Cherry who guided me through the Monaco prints and shared his safety concerns and to Terry R, who shared his knowledge and fix for the failure inside the HWH control box that he had experienced previously, saving us a lot of trial and possible error.. The big relay on the motor was fine and we now have a spare and some new soldering stuff for another adventure.. The motor start circuit activates every time any hydraulic slide moves, so a robust fix is good to have.. Thanks again Laura and Trevor

Progress today, things are still thought provoking lol.. small wires removed from the coil terminals and passed up to Laura, who still says they are both black. Also have the 2ga 12v feed off. Neither wire gives 12v from either intellitec or generator switches, 1 still gave about 0.2v from all switches. Now looking for the ground, they both passed that test, 1 gave 12.2v, the other 13.2, directly to the hydraulic manifold was 13.7v, charging on shorepower. then tested the relay, 12v to one terminal, 1st of the original wires tried gave the expected solid clunk, but the other did not complete the circuit, so can I a$! u me that is the one that originates from the HWH box? One thought to determine was to chock the wheels and air up to release the spring parking brakes, no change, the wire still provided a good ground.. Since we will be using that ground I will add a new 12v feed to the other coil terminal with a switch to run the pump on demand.. my fingers are not good with holding things, after dropping a little nut a few times it finally disappeared on me, so have to go shopping before I can finish the next stage tomorrow, hoping it did not go into the step mechanism.. there are better places to have mounted this relay, still tempting, then open the generator slide to see that hwh box.. Any thoughts welcome Regards, Trevor

Thank You for the pictures and description, did you consider using thinner tubing, 5/16in seems prtetty hefty, but no doubt very safe. Regards, Trevor

Good Morning, I am also unable to open those pictures and would really appreciate having them as jpegs, email is qcktvr2@gmail.com Many thanks Trevor Topley

Tom, he is not touching our MH, my plans have not changed, I will post what I find tomorrow. Regards, Trevor

Today is for relaxing, but I did take the box under the step, of course the motor relay cannot be seen, will need to be underneath, or maybe move it, tomorrow.. so I picked up the vom and looked in the FRB for a couple of minutes, what an intimidating place, how would one identify a spare circuit?? Out walking around and bumped into a mobile tech in his truck, but that is staying here at the Ranch in Arcadia, good to know and he let me pick his brain... he knows of this problem, seems the ground from the brake switch also goes through that HWH box and can get lost.. he has had to add a new ground. Will be underneath again tomorrow.. would be nice to move the relay back a bit to get at the terminals, but suspect the main motor +ve terminal gets in the way of the hose clamp, so elegant, but will try. Thanks

I hear you Tom and will be doing that first, my mind is covering multiple plans, we still have room for more spare parts. Easy to get into the FRB and find 12v. Plan to kill 12v power at the switches in back before taking the blue and grey wires off to avoid possibility of big sparks, and the cable to the motor to test the relay. Add a small wire to the 12v feed side to test the relay and to find the blue grd with a voltmeter. Clean those wires and see if Laura can determine colours. If we find the grd great, agree multiple failures unlikely, that only happens when your car is in the shop lol.. If we find the grd then I will put a switch in the new +ve to run the motor, will need to bring the generator slide out.. How does that sound? Happy New Year Trevor

Just ordered a relay and some insulated connectors and now wondering if I will be able to find the "grey" wire near the HWH box to avoid running a new one down to the motor. Sounds as if finding 12v in the FRB should not be a problem. Happy New Year to ALL Trevor and Laura

Hi Terry, thankyou v much for your recall and for sharing, I suspect that this is my problem as well, might explain the .2v reading when a mpx switch is made inside.. Will find a relay, get the generator slide out and go looking. I know where the HWH box is, it was rebuilt by them a few years ago by the PO, sure they would love to do it again, I like the Bosch relay, my kind of fix as well.. Will keep in touch with my progress. The New Year is looking better.. Trevor & Laura

Thank You for those thoughts, we powered down the DC and took the dogs for a walk, made sure that it killed those modules in the closet, condition was the same as... trying the rear pass side out hydraulic switch there are 2 sequential clicks and 2 lights on, module A, 4th down, and module E, 5th from top, but no hydraulic pump... While in there I noticed some of the fuses in the E mod have been replaced with larger ones, a 15A even for a 2A, not ideal, and I used our last 15A when I blew the map light fuse.. The bay doors are all closed, still have to look at the switches, would Monaco have not used the same safeties for our 1 electric slide? next job? still plan to jump the large relay terminals just to be sure.. a new relay is ordered, Trombetta #684 1261 212, do not know that it is needed, but good to have; 12v across the coil now and it makes noises, but no noise from it with the switches. In my head a semi elegant work around will be to move the big cables to the new relay, hang it with cable ties and jury rig new control wires with a switch to turn the motor on... thoughts. Obviously we need a real fix, so will be working / thinking about this.. Thanks again, Trevor in cool Arcadia FL