ready2retire59

I recently assembled and installed Bob Nodine's Nason park brake switch replacement.  Everything works perfectly.  All the parts were readily available.  Even the weatherpack 3 pin connector was available on Amazon in a 5 set package for about $13.00.  The weatherpack can be used if you do not want to use the connector from the old Nason switch.  I was able to tap into the 12v and ground lines feeding the switches for the hydraulic levelers for my power source to the relay.  My hardest part of the job was re-supporting the park brake actuator because the plastic console was cracked.  I used a small steel right angle bracket cut to fit and mounted between the plastic and the actuator.  It supports the actuator and can't be seen.    

Thank you Bob.  Your design with the single contact pressure switch should last the life of the motorhome. 

Tony Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram pickup

I have a similar problem.  My dip stick tube on my '03 Windsor broke by the clamp that holds the tube at the top of the engine near where the tube flares to accept the securing part of the dip stick itself.  I was able to install a small piece of hose with claps at each end to hold the tube together for my last trip.  Cummins was no help since the tube and dip stick were installed by Monaco and the length is determined by the application.  The rest of the tube seems to be in sorry shape too rust wise.  Does anyone know if there are any Monaco specs as to the length and possible part number of the tube?  Thank you.

Tony Chiulli

'03 Windsor,  '05 Ram Pickup

I went to a local Auto Zone and picked up a 7# pressure radiator cap.  Seems to fit and lock down fine.  I had ordered the cap from Veurink's RV Center (see link I posted above).  When it arrives in a few days, I'll check to see if the 2 caps are mechanically (locking) the same.  If they are the same, I'll go with the 7# cap from Auto Zone as suggested.  The Auto Zone cap is a 7007 radiator cap AZ sku 799304970071.

David White:  That looks exactly like what I have.  What is the pressure reading on your cap?  Thanks Tony

Hypoxia:  I was not aware that diesel engines have EGR.  Mine is an ISL.  Where would you look to see if it has EGR?  Thanks  Tony

This cap is not a "screw on cap"-it's a 1/4 or 1/2 turn to lock in place-same as an older car radiator cap.  It is a pressure cap because the surge tank is pressurized.  Tony

Thanks Peter.

I just found on iRV2 Forums a replacement cap for the surge tank.

https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/searc...h=tank&Submit=

I've included the link if anyone is interested.  Thank you

Tony Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram toad

Paul A , Your response just came through after I posted the link.  Thank you

Tony Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram toad

Does anyone know the pressure rating (or better yet part #) for the coolant tank cap for a '03 Windsor 370hp Cummins ISL.  Somehow mine went missing.  I'd like to think it was someone else fault but I was the only one checking things before our last trip!  My bad.  Thanks for any assistance.

Tony Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram toad

When I replaced the 2 tvs in our '03 Windsor, I found 2 splitters (one behind each tv).  I don't know what the front tv splitter does but the rear tv splitter goes to the rear tv and to the outside (in the bay) tv jack.

On a related note to miacasa_2000, what is the brand and model of the blu ray dvd surround sound player that you installed?  

Thank you,

Tony C '03 Windsor, '05 Ram 1500

I'm late to this discussion, but if the breaker keeps tripping when you try to rest it, you're troubleshooting a short circuit NOT an open circuit (no voltage to any outlets).  I suggest you follow the ideas of Tom Cherry above.  If you are electrically inclined, you can try it yourself.  If not, get the qualified electrician Tom suggested.   I've had problems with the RV type outlets in my '03 Windsor but mine were open connections at the outlets leading to no voltage at outlets downstream.  The trick is to break open the circuit upstream of the short and then the breaker will not trip.  If you can determine the halfway point in the schematics and break the daisy chain of the circuit at that point, you can tell if the short is upstream or downstream from that point.  If it's downstream, reconnect the circuit and move halfway downstream on the daisy chain according to the schematics and then break open the circuit again to determine where the short is.  If its upstream , move halfway upstream on the daisy chain and break the circuit there.  Keep going halfway in the direction needed until you find the short.  Unless it's a chewed though wire somewhere between outlets, you'll probably find the bad inverter per Tom above or a disconnected and shorted wire in one of the outlets.   Good luck 

Tony Chiulli 

'03 Windsor

When I talked with someone at Roadmaster they said there was no support for the discontinued (in 2006) for the Brake Pro.  There was nothing they could do for me.  TomC2, was yours a Brake Pro or the newer Even Brake?

Tony Chiulli 

Thanks for the quick response.  Will look at ReadyBrute!

Tony and Doreen Chiulli 

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram 1500

We're on the East coast (Northeast) with the same problem on our '03 Windsor.  We've had estimates upwards of $8000 to $10,000 just to do above the top belt.  Any help for our area would also be appreciated.  Thank you.

Tony and Doreen Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram 1500

After 15 years of operation, my Roadmaster Brake Pro gave it up.  It was installed in a 2005 Ram 1500 behind a 2003 Monaco Windsor.  What finally quit was the relay on the circuit board which caused the pump to keep running.  We were parked at my son's house for a few days and, while we ran the genset each night to keep the batteries charged, I didn't check the truck until we were leaving.  My bad!!  Since there  is a fused power line from the coach to the truck, the running pump drained the truck and the coach chassis batteries.  At this point I still did not realize that the pump was the culprit, and since the chassis batteries were 5+ years old, I replaced both batteries.  After I replaced the batteries, I finally checked the truck and found the running pump.  

Sorry for the lengthy comment, but I felt I should share the  bad (my bad) experience so that others can avoid a similar fate.  The moral:  check the toad everyday even if you are stopped.

The main reason for this post was to ask opinions on supplemental braking systems.  I have to now replace the Brake Pro since there is no support for this product.  After some research, I'm thinking about either the Brake Buddy Select 3 or the Blue Ox Patriot II or III.  They both seem to be good systems and, with my existing wiring in the truck, they both would be easy enough to install.  The only drawback that I think on the Blue Ox is the  ease of install of the clamp on the brake pedal.  The clamp also seems to be partly made of plastic.  Any comments, please.  Thanks in advance!!

Tony Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram 1500