theturbinedoctor

Charles - are you aware of an air solution for the tranny? I found an air throttle kit a few years back when my King board power supply pins burned up, but ended up just having a board repair guy fix it.

The fill valve on my '98 Dynasty is leaking, and I am not having any luck finding a replacement. Does anyone know where to get a new one?

@waterskier_1 thanks for the correction, I'm far from an expert. Will edit OP so I don't confuse anyone.

I recently replaced all 8 airbags on my 98 Dynasty with the Roadmaster RR8 chassis, and figured I'd let someone else learn from my mistakes. Below is a quick tutorial, which is from memory but hits all the high points. I also did all 8 shocks, but that is quite simple - it's just difficult to compress the new shocks to stab the bolts. Make sure you wear safety glasses. If you don’t start with them on, you’ll put them on later after washing crap out of your eyes. This post covers only the front airbags. The rears use essentially the same process, just using two leveling jacks. And, the rear bags are much larger and heavier, and two of those bags have two air hoses each as opposed to the one on the front bags. 1. Remove the top nuts on either side (passenger or driver) front airbags a. ¾” or 19MM deep socket. A shallow socket won’t reach the nuts. You’ll be getting like 1 or 2 clicks at a time. Your arms will fall off, and your neck will hurt for hours afterward. 2. Extend front jack until the extension rate slows (have someone run the switch while you watch – you don’t want to over-extend). 3. Measure between the front H frame and bottom of main frame rails. Cut a 4x4 or 4x6 block about 1/8” shorter than this, and scoot/smack into place. Ensure that the block will not impede removal of the airbag, or prevent your arms from reaching the top nuts and air lines. 4. Have your helper retract the front jack until the wood is pinched into place, then stop – you still want the jack taking much of the weight. 5. Remove the air line on top of whichever bag you’re starting with – the air will blow dirt all over you. I think this was a 9/16” wrench (it’s been a minute). You can ziptie a sandwich bag over the end of the hose to keep it clean. 6. Since you’ve already removed the top nuts (I hope, or else you’ll be pulling the blocks, dropping the jack, and then removing the nuts), all that remains are the bottom bolts which come out easily. Removing the front bags is easy, as long as you placed the block in a good spot. If not… 7. Remove the fitting from the old bag, and USE LOCTITE 545 or 565 on the new threads. I failed to do this and had to spend about 8 hours chasing leaks all through the system – ended up removing two rear bag fittings, pulling off the Teflon tape (I know…) and doping the threads with the proper Loctite. This fixed the leaks. Do. Not. Skip. This. Step. 8. Here is the tricky part: the new airbag, when fresh out of the box, is too tall to fit into place. The air fitting that you better have put Loctite on should have a small “nipple” that protects the end of the hose and provides a solid connection. Tear off like 1” of “heavy” Teflon tape – the stuff you DID NOT USE on the fitting's threads (there are different grades of tape, this stuff feels noticeably thicker) and get it ready. Push down on the airbag until it bottoms out, then while holding it down (I did it alone, but you might need your helper) you press the tape against the nipple, then let go. The bag should stay compressed, as the rubber tried to expand and pull air in – it can’t, because the tape is blocking the hole. Carefully get it up into place, and you’ll see why you needed to compress it - without being compressed, it will never fit. Ensure that the bolt holes in the bag’s bottom plate are centered in the holes in the brackets, then carefully remove the Teflon tape. The bag will inflate quickly, and the studs should go up through the top plate holes. If you aren’t lined up, you might have only one stud go through, and the air line nipple can hit the top plate and get damaged. If this happens, just use a mallet to align the bag’s top plate and once the studs come through the holes, remove the fitting and get a new nipple (NAPA has them, I forgot to record the part number). I just took in another fitting with a good nipple so they could match it. 9. Now you just reattach the air line, and bolt the new airbag in. I replaced all hardware, as some of it wasn’t in great shape. I used Nylock nuts in place of the stock standard nuts. 10. Once all 4 bags are in place, nuts/bolts torqued (or PFT'd), and all air lines reconnected, extend the leveling jack until the wood is loose, take it out, and of course get out from under the coach if using a helper to run the leveling system. Then, lower the front and run the engine until the air system reaches operating pressure. This way you're checking for leaks on the front while starting on the rear. Again, I didn't use jackstands. Same concept of course applies - and they're easier to not forget, as your wood blocks are tucked up underneath mostly out of sight. I hope this helps someone.

Sorry, scratch this whole post. At some point (don't recall when, I put about 200 hours of work into this beast over the summer), I had disassembled and reassembled the male plug on the shore power cable, and didn't get the strain relief clamp tight enough. One line and the neutral conductor had pulled most of the way out, and were making intermittent contact with their terminals. I say "intermittent" because I did check and found proper 240VAC at the female end of the shore power cable, plenty of times. So, I still can't explain the overall issue, but it is now fixed.

My '98 Dynasty has a gremlin! And, I know this post doesn't really belong in "generators" but there is no ATS category. Anyway, I have 240VAC shore power that has (I assume) always worked properly in the past. I recently checked a non-working receptacle in the engine bay and it read about 70VAC L/N, so I figured there was a neutral issue somewhere. Then one day, after returning from a failed vacation to Colorado, I plugged in at my shore power pedestal and saw that the inverter wasn't operating. Started checking voltage and saw that the ATS was not closing in. I was reading 240 L1 to L2, 240 L1 to N, and zero volts L2 to N. All three phases read 120 to ground. I figured the ATS control board was out, so I ordered a used one from eBay - same thing. Ordered a brand new complete ATS - same thing!!!! I checked every single connection (pedestal, both ends of shore power cable, pedestal primary wiring at sub panel in my shop), and every one was good. I thought there must be a neutral or grounding issue, as the ground isn't actually connected to earth until the main 200A service at my house. So, I beat a 8' 5'8" copper ground rod in right at the pedestal (think I went thru a flippin' tree root, because it took about 90 minutes with a 12 lb. sledge) and now have a good, solid ground connection - nothing changed. And to confirm, the neutral and ground are NOT bonded except for at the 200A main service. So, if anyone could offer any advice, that would be great. Or, can someone check voltage on top of a working ATS that is on 240VAC shore power, and see what all the readings are?