horseman

Great information-really appreciate, I will be checking mine tomorrow. my original post on brake drums has been mis-read by many. I replaced brake drums at about 48,000 mile because PREVIOUS owner evidently had no knowledge on using air brakes or exhaust brake. The original Webb replacement was going to be Almost $2000.00 which I did not go for or use. When I pulled the original drums the heat cracking was way in excess of the DOT standards and heating was so bad drums could NOT be turned. There are numerous companies that can provide brake drums that will fit but they are of very varying Quality. If you can’t match original part numbers try to get equivalent or better in drum weight, hardness, gross axel.weight capacity. I found drums for $74.00 to about $140.00 that after looking at specs would not put on anyones coach. Some were almost 25 lbs less in actual weight. I am very happy with my choice and brakes now work excellent. I check slack adjusters anytime I am under coach for any maintenance- sounds like you are very thorough also.

Would like some comments/thoughts. I did a complete brake job on my n2009 Knight 41 SKQ (drums, shoes and new hardware). The drums were [overheated and hardened mso that they could not be turned. When the brake shop crossed numbers from the original drums they were going to cost approximately $2000.00 each. They recommended using drums from a 10 wheel dump truck that had more than 10,000 lbs. gross weight rating than the maximum for my motorhome (33,000 lbs.) The dimensions of the drums for the 10 wheeler (50,000 pounds max gross weight - less than $200 each) were all exactly the same as my old ones, but there was some difference in the heat treatment. I have gone approximately 9,000 miles since completing brake job and everything seems great even during a couple of hard emergency stops. Has anyone done something similar? does anyone have concerns because of heat treatment difference? I could replace these new drums 10 times for the difference in cost and as long as they are good for the heavier 10 wheeler I do not see the difference.

Thanks for info, I did not know what system he had, and I am not familiar with the ATS. That said there was a lot of confusion in what was being measured and recorded. This is a simple step by step process that if followed will lead him to the problem. I always recommend a multimeter for conducting tests. Start at 50 amp in coming wires in distribution panel, depending on that result work forward or backwards to problem (0 or low voltage). From posts it seemed the tests at bottom of 50 amp breaker had produced 120, 120, 240 volts. Testing the output of each individual circuit breaker 120 volts will determine which direction to go from there. If any are 0 volts-reset breaker and try again. If still 0 volts pull breaker and test at top panel stab for breaker . If 0 volts at stab the problem is in panel or main breaker. If all breakers test 120 volts at bottom the problem is either wiring or Alladin. there are reasonably priced signal generators that will apply a signal on the wire that use a receiver that can be used to trace wire to the problem spot. Not sure of alladin system, but pulling and testing incoming wire for proper voltage may also determine if this is just a failure on that.

This has been dry confusing, but you were given good advice. If you now have 120 volts from black and red/black to ground (black/white) and you have 240 volts between black and black/red at bottom of 50 amp breaker with both shore power and generator-everything in incoming source wiring to breaker is alright. Next with all breakers on test from bottom of all 120 volt breakers to the neutral ( black/white). Should have 120 volts on each .wire. If not- re-set or replace breakers. if you have 120 volts on all black wires on breaker you may have addition electrical protection circuits that feed from bottom of breaker to the electronic board then Roth actual circui wire. My 2009 knight 41skq had this. The circuit boards are usually right along side the distribution panel. The breakers should be marked so you a trace wire from the bottom of breaker to electronic board. Find load wire from circuit board and test for 120 volts. If you get 120 volts there the circuit wiring to your house monitor is bad.if you get 0 volts -disconnect circuit wire from electronic board and place circuit wire going to your monitor directly into breaker-if this corrects issue replace electronic board. If you still have issues or would like to discuss more give mea call 315-391-1316. I train electricians and high voltage power lineman, I may be able to talk you through this. A picture of the compartment were your electrical distribution panel is would really help to see if you have these extra electronic circuit boards

I also prefer to do fill of new filters prior to installing! I keep a jug of diesel fuel that I have run through a funnel with coffee filters to ensure it is clean. I change primary first and do a key cycle before starting, then let run for two minutes. I then change the secondary filter, do key cycle and then start and run for two minutes - have never had any issue with air stumbling or no start. Key is to make sure fuel used for pre-fills is clean.