daveyjo

12 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

You have the single motor (Dayton).  There are several topic that discuss this,  ODDS ARE…. You need to get under it and tighten the screws and lube the lead screw. BUT….to do it easily, you need to get it out.  Once it gets into a funk, here is what has worked for me and others.

FIRST….HOLD the switch in the EXTEND position for a few seconds,  As it ages or the mechanism gets dry or the glides get loose, it takes more torque to move  Riding down the highway, the vibration will actually make it work better as the “mechanism” is flexing and is looser.  If that works, then you have to remember NOT to bump it and panic (TRUST ME…this is the voice of experience…LOL)

NEXT…no joy in the above.  Push it IN..as hard as you can…don’t hit it with a sledge, but get it seated in the IN position.  SOMETIMES it can be bumped and then lock up.  NOW try the above.  OK….NO JOY, then do the opposite.  Hold down the EXTEND switch and gently but firmly PULL it out.  You MIGHT actually sort of grab and jerk it.  You are trying to break the mechanism loose.  Don’t beat it to death, but help it,  

NOW….once it is OUT or even partially out….leave it that way.  THEN, when you are able, fully extend it (weather permitting…..I spent a LOT of time in MN and Duluth), then get your LED flashlight and look up under it and tighten every screw on the mechanism and the glides and lube (some like a Teflon spray…just don’t spray the motor) or use a Garage Door lube on the lewd screw.  Do NOT overdo it.

NOW, from NOW ON, caution anyone to HOLD down the switch so it cycles and never, ever again….BUMP IT.

Worked for me (and tech didn’t charge me a bundle) and tested it for 30 days,  DW bumped it and panicked.  I got it moving and changed her technique and it runs perfectly.  NOT like new….it is older….so you treat it was a little respect.

Good Luck…
 

I am pretty sure it is pneumatic.  The coach, a 2005, was actually built in 2004 according to a sticker inside the coach.

My 2005 Scepter Step Cover won't extend or retract.  I can hear a relay or solenoid click when I actuate the step switch either to open or close it, but nothing moves.  The coach was in for months waiting for some unrelated repairs, then came out and was stored outdoors for several months in freezing Minnesota.  Been on the road for 3 days and it hasn't worked once.   Any ideas??

Dave Jones

I have a friend who has a 5th wheel, and pulls it with a pickup truck.  In the truck bed she has a 3,750 watt generator with it's own starting battery, which she doesn't use often,  but seems to often be discharged enough that the generator won't start.  Jumper cables will get it started, put are a PITA.  Is there some kind of regulated charger that she could hook up to her truck (say by plugging it into her cigarette lighter) that would charge her generator battery when the ignition is on?  It just seems like asking for trouble to hard wire her generator battery in parallel with her truck battery.  

Dave Jones, 2005 Scepter

My 2005 Scepter diesel generator acted like yours.  Cummins found the problem - it was a defective water temperature sensor.  Mine had to be drilled out as the couldn't unscrew it.  About $650.  Runs great now.

My '05 Scepter had the same issue.  Turns out the switch on the bottom of the emergency/park brake push/pull switch was defective.  Mine was erratic, sometimes it would work, sometimes not.  Put the brakes on/off once or twice and maybe it would work.  It is bad when it won't open, but worse when it won't close.

I posted on the forum last February 12, (https://www.monacoers.org/topic/3917-coach-frame-maybe-shifting/#comment-34478) and got some good replies about my problem.  5,000 miles later I still haven’t fixed the issue, but the issue remains and the truck body shop I asked to repair it can’t see anything broken so far, so they are kinda stumped.  So I thought I would describe the issue again after driving 5000 miles with it, and ask any further thoughts.  The issue is:

 I heard a loud bang under the steps while driving my 2005 38” Holiday Rambler Scepter.  I did not see anything in the road to run over and get thrown up against the coach (rock, etc), but that could have happened.  We pulled over but could see nothing wrong, so we kept going.  About 10 miles later, we camped for two nights (dumped air, leveled the coach.)  We then drove another hour and camped for another night, once again dumping air and leveling. The next day after driving 5 miles and getting on an interstate, we noticed the whole right side of the dash vibrated and squeaked, and it appeared it had pulled away a bit from the side wall.  The dash stopped squeaking when my wife kept pressure on it with her feet.  We camped after about 90 minutes.  Then we noticed the step well had pulled away from the side of the coach maybe 1/8” to ¼”.  It was like the stairwell was moving a little. Then, a day later, we noticed with air dumped and looking down in the stairwell, we could see daylight along the new opening by the front stair well (see photos in above URL).  (But we could have just not noticed the gap and daylight earlier.)  After driving 5,000 more miles, nothing visible has gotten any worse.

The outdoor generator compartment door now has a wider gap on the curb side.  I can’t see anything broken from underneath or from the generator opening.

I did not notice any difference in ride when the bang happened so I don’t think it was an air bag.  They feel firm when pumped up and I don’t hear any leak.  Also, when pumped up, the visible gap between the coach outside wall and stairwell is half the width it was when the coach air was dumped (it got narrower when pumped up).  I don’t know if this is still true after driving 5,000 miles since the event. 

The main suggestions I got last February were broken body struts (can’t see any), have the entire frame and all attachments checked (so far no one has found any breaks), Question asked was "Do you have one centre jack? It looks like the generator housing assembly may be where the issue is." (Needs further examination), and removing the door frame to look for broken welds.  (Great suggestion, to be further examined.)  The body shop plans to get serious about fixing the issue next week, so I thought I would see if anyone had other suggestions.  Photos of the issue are on , (https://www.monacoers.org/topic/3917-coach-frame-maybe-shifting/#comment-34478).

Dave Jones

On 8/7/2022 at 9:38 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

All,

I want to take a moment of personal privilege to share an update on my wife of 29 years, Debbie.

For those of you who were at the Gathering back in February, and others who reached out about Debbie's colon rupture experienced at the Gathering that resulted in a 21 day hospital stay in Tampa, I wanted to give you the great news...

Debbie had "reversal" surgery here in Atlanta in June performed by a brilliant young surgeon (Dr. Crystal Koerner).  To say it was a success would be an understatement.  We are now through the recovery period, released by the doctors, and Debbie is back in good health!  Doc says she can eat anything she wants, which after being on a very strict "bland white" diet (chicken, pasta, rice, potatoes..) for four months is a real treat (and since I eat whatever she eats... well, you know.)

Thanks to everyone who helped along the way. It was a very scary time for both of us, and having y'all around sure helped us get through it. The kind gestures, the caring, and most of all the prayers offered up got us through this.

With Grateful Appreciation,

Scotty

Great news.  Happy for you.

I use a tow dolly and not a towbar, so my experience might be different, but I can sure tell if my dolly brakes aren't working.  Stopping is way easier and I am sure with a shorter stopping distance.  Surely you can feel the difference if you don't use aux braking when towing with a tow bar.

I got a letter too.  I have no idea why, as I don't think Monaco owes me any money.  Here is what I got:

Chuck,  they are two different vehicles.  We are caravanning.  But thanks for the warning.

We are considering driving from Manila, Utah to Dutch John, Utah on April 18^th , on Utah highway 44 with a 38’ class A towing a car and a 36’ 5^th wheel.  Anyone have any experience traveling that route?  Is it too hilly and curvy to travel with those RVs?

4 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I have heard about the smelly Toyos and was hesitant to go with them for that reason but money talks loud so I got them vs. previous Michelins. Same type and size. Happy to report no strong smell because that would be wife's never ending complaint. Can you tell where yours were made, it is on the sidewall. Mine came from Japan, last year. Strictly out of curiosity where the smell comes from, factory process related possibly.

Mine were made in Japan.

I replaced with Toyos on 4/29/2020.  295/80R22.5 Toyo M144.  No problems with tires except they stink.  It took me a while to realize my black tank wasn't smelling.  It was and still is the Toyos.

18 hours ago, CorinthWest said:

Interesting that you posted this.  I am replacing my Kwikee steps in my 2004 Holiday Rambler Vacationer this weekend.  The previous owner bent them to all to heck and back, so I bought new STEPS (sans motor and electronics).  I was in the process of switching all the gear over and noticed the red and yellow wires were reversed in the motor connector.  These steps worked before I took them apart.  I am putting them back together again exactly the same (except with the new steps) so I don't expect any issues.  But I have to get some stainless hardware tomorrow (yes, I'm a little OCD).  Anyway, I thought it was odd that the wires to the motor were switched at the connector, especially when the connector is KEYED to only go one way.

I have some Kwikee info I can share.  Can you post a pic of your steps?  Are they 2 step or 3 step?  Mine are 3 step and they are a Series 25.  Also, the people at Lippert were VERY helpful when I called them.

 

P.S.  I went to the trouble of removing the label from the old steps and used 3M double sided tape to attach it to my new steps so I don't lose the model, serial, etc.

On my step control module (Lippert Electric Step Control Module, REV  164889 for my 2005 Holiday Rambler Scepter) I found I had to switch the red and yellow leads going to the 4 connector lead coming from the CONTROL MODULE, not the MOTOR.  The motor only has 2 wires going to it, and I don't know what color mine are.

Thanks for the step tag info in your later message. 

My coach has a 1 step construction - see photo.  

6 hours ago, tomevansfl said:

I have a question re: replacement steps. My diplomat came with a single Power step (I don’t know model number at this time). Can I switch to a two step model and use the existing motor or will two steps be too much load?

I don't have a clue.  I'd call Lippert to find out.

15 hours ago, Martinvz said:

Hi Dave,

I recently replaced the steps on the coach (replaced the old Kwikee steps with a with a new set of model 25 steps) which uses the new control module. The shape is sort of square with an oblique side. It does have improved control module, at least that is what Lippert told me. I have a mid entry door on a gas coach, so this is different.

When I received the steps, I also received the full set of instructions and a harness to test the operation of the steps. I have these in the coach and can provide info from these to you. Let me know if you are interested. It may help with diagnosis.

Martin

Thanks, Martin, but I have those.  Using those is how I learned I needed to switch the red and yellow wires.

14 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Dave, I had the same problem with the model number tag. What I did was eliminate the module and hard wired the motor to a 12v supply. Put in a new in/out switch to redirect the power flow in the same spot that the original switch located. It has worked good the past 4 years. The problem is you have to make sure the step is manually out, if not, that first step could be dangerous. Same with closing the step, the in/out procedure is now manual. I put a magnetic open/close switch on the step and installed a red light on the driver's side A pillar that turns on when the step is out when ignition switch is turned on. You have to verify that the motor still works before you start to rewire it. Hope my description was clear enough.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I am manually doing just that so I can use the steps while I look for a replacement module.  The upgrade kit Lippert suggested may be all I need to make my next control module be the one marked "universal"work.

A couple of years ago, I bought a Lippert Electric Step Control Module, REV  164889 for my 2005 Holiday Rambler Scepter.  The package label said it is for all Lippert steps, but clearly it wasn’t.  I installed it but it did not work.  I discovered that the Monaco wiring harness in my coach didn’t match up with the new control board wiring, i.e., the red and yellow leads on the new module were reversed from that on my old module at the 4 prong connector, which made it reversed from the coach side wiring harness.  I reversed the red and yellow leads on the module, and it then worked.  (The coach side wiring was red at +12V dc, the yellow at 0 volts with ignition off, +12v with ignition on.) 

 The only module I could find for my 2005 Scepter is the one I bought (probably from Venturics) but there must be another module that would match the connector on my coach and my old defective module (now long gone).  FYI, Lippert does sell a different shape module for 2006 and newer coaches, so I clearly didn’t have the 2006 newer module.

Lippert says if the coach is older than 2006, it may need an upgrade kit.  (Maybe that plus a new module is what I need?)  Mine coach was built in 2004, but is a 2005 model year.  But Lippert says they can’t help me without the data on the step’s tag, and mine is illegible. (It is on the back side of one of the step’s vertical surfaces.)  Does anyone know what model steps are on a 2005 Scepter or probably Camelot?  Or what model step module it takes?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Dave Jones

612 581-7503

figuring out what to call them is the issue.  I bought some from Amazon.  Google this Amazon description of my order and see what you can find.  

Rubber Mounts M8 M6 Anti Vibration Rubber Mount Cylindrical Isolator Vibration Isolation Mounts Shock Absorber Absorption Mount w/Threaded Stud Male Thread Silentblock Car Boat Bobbins, M8 Pack of 4

31 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Could you post a picture?   you mean you put foam around the front-facing edges of the door awning arms?

I'm sorry.  I put it inside the post.  T'was a long time ago.

I put foam from swimming pool noodles over the support struts and the noise went away!

Wow. Thanks for the ideas.  Keep 'em coming!

On 2/12/2022 at 12:10 PM, Rick A said:

Clearly one of the body struts has broken. It should be a difficult fix for a body shop. I would get it there ASAP  because it could result in more serious damage. Did you get under that corner? A photo would help your colleagues see if they spot a problem. 

I have spent a lot of time under that corner of the coach and see nothing out of the ordinary except the step well has moved a bit.  Here are some photos of the only thing I can see that has moved.  Can't see any cracks in anything structural.

I heard a loud bang under the steps while driving my 2005 38” Holiday Rambler Scepter (same as Camelot).  I did not see anything in the road to run over and get thrown up against the coach (rock, etc), but that could have happened.  We pulled over but could see nothing wrong, so we kept going.  About 10 miles later, we camped for two nights (dumped air, leveled the coach.)  We then drove another hour and camped for another night, once again dumping air and leveling. The next day after driving 5 miles and getting on an interstate, the whole right side of the dash vibrated and squeaked, and it appeared it had pulled away a bit from the side wall.  The dash stopped squeaking when my wife kept pressure on it with her feet.  We camped after about 90 minutes.  Then we noticed the step well had pulled away from the side of the coach maybe 1/8” to ¼”.  Now, a day later, we just noticed with air dumped and looking down, we see daylight along the new opening by the front stair well. 

The outdoor generator compartment door now has a wider gap on the curb side.  I can’t see anything broken from underneath or from the generator opening.

My front steps have been inoperative (retracted) for the last 1000 miles, so I don’t think that has caused the noise or issue.

I did not notice any difference in ride when the bang happened so I don’t think it was an air bag.  They feel firm when pumped up and I don’t hear any leak.  Also, when pumped up, the visible gap between the coach outside wall and stairwell is half the width it was when the coach air was dumped (it got narrower when pumped up).. Anyone have any clues as to what the issue is? 

Dave Jones

If the fridge is plugged into two outlets as you described earlier, one is for the fridge and one for the icemaker.  I had an icemaker tripping the breaker after variable times.  Can't remember the details it was so long ago.  FYI.

I recently did some looking around at non-Monaco used coaches for the same reason Chuck cites, i.e., not much help from REV about pre-bankruptcy coaches.  Newell and Foretravel cost more than I want to spend, and Newmar (I looked mostly at Dutch Stars) seem to get great raves up until about 2015 after which they get some pretty lousy reviews.  Tiffin seems to rate about like Newmar, i.e., after 2014 or 15 the reviews don't seem to be as good (I looked mostly at Allegro Bus and Phaeton).  RV net had some useful comments from users.  https://www.coastresorts.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/22/days/14/sub/40.cfm

Thanks for the info.  Once I had the name "trolley" it was easy to Google and find pictures of them (sliding door trolley) and I now understand how they work.  Took the door off the track and out of the way.  Turns out one of the rollers was somehow jammed, but using a screwdriver on the bracket holding the rollers, it popped back in place and started working OK.  So I guess the problem was that one roller was out of alignment and wouldn't roll.  It now rolls, but the 3 roller assembly now has one slightly bent roller support arm.  It looks like a LOT of work to install a new roller assembly, so I am going to just reinstall the door and see if it will work before trying to remove the trim so I can replace the assembly.

Once again, thank for the help!

Dave Jones