daveyjo

I still don't understand what my coach is doing (see earlier post - same topic), but I thought these photos might help others.  An earlier owner of my 2005 HR Scepter apparently replaced whatever Monaco had installed (see photo with 3 clipped wires from the Isolator Relay Delay) for an Isolator Delay controller and replaced it with an Intellitec bi-directional isolator delay relay 00-00839-000.  I guess this is what controls the Trombetta or Big Boy relay.  The replaced relay in the photos is in the front electrical bay.

The pdf  RJ Chapman posted with troubleshooting steps should help figure things out.  Thanks , Jack.

I had one like that for a 2001 Dip and it was so tiny I took it to kinkos and had them print a big one that was easier to follow.  But too big is also an issue.

Gary,

I have similar issues, but I am not sure what is happening.  I can drive all day and the Alladin monitor show a 4 or 6 amp discharge all day from my coach batteries unless my solar panels are charging, too.  Then the discharge is more like 4 to 6 amps PLUS 80% of what my solar panels show they are putting out (which all seems backward. ) Once I arrive at my destination, my monitor says the coach batteries are practicality fully charged, or are at 100%, which shouldn't be so if they have been discharging all day.  So maybe my system is working OK but I don't know it.

Some time ago I was diddling with the Trombetta relay and found it would pull in a few minutes AFTER I started the coach engine, and that seems consistent with the system making sure the chassis batteries are fully charged before switching to charging the coach batteries.  I have attached a one page electrical diagram for a Diplomat, and a many page electrical document for a 2005 HR Scepter, of which many of the diagrams are for more that just the Scepter.  See the info boxes on each diagram.  I'd guess they cover the diplomat, too.  Let me know how you resolve this, as it might apply to me, too.

Dave Jones, 05 HR Scepter

06 Dip wiring -dip_chassis_12v.pdf 2005 Camelot wiring diagrams.pdf

That's what mine looks like except I don't have the video distribution amplifier, and I have probably the same cables coming into the compartment through the forward bulkhead, plus I have an additional bunch of cables that used to be connected to an obsolete KVH Satellite receiver.  I marked the KVH cables, but have no clue what the other wires are from.  They are maybe from that other box shown on my two page brochure, which is probably gone.  But all the info I have received helps me understand the system better, and what I can do to replace it.  Thanks all for your help.

Dave Jones

Thanks for the info.

Dave

I did download the diagram.  Thank you!!  It appears to be like mine except it still doesn't tell me where the 3 multi wire cables from it go to behind walls.  but it sure helps me understand just what it is supposed to do.  Apparently the home theater in my coach was discarded and the dash radio replaced, but as I see it, all the home theater did was route the output of the radio, tv or whatever to the RiverPark, which then somehow decided which speakers to send the sound to.  As I interpret it all, the dash switch (which should say radio or theater, but in mine just says radio) switches the RiverPark to what speakers are to be used to play whatever the home theater box sends to it.  Essentially, the home theater is just another set of switches like the RiverPark box?

Thanks again for your help.

Dave Jones

20 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Im confused about your switcher as u call it. The switcher is the 6CHXOV-01. as far as I know.  Then the only other switch is the one from radio to home theater switch.

HOME THEATER BLOCK REVISION C (08) 38080188.pdf 457.53 kB · 3 downloads

21 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Im confused about your switcher as u call it. The switcher is the 6CHXOV-01. as far as I know.  Then the only other switch is the one from radio to home theater switch.

HOME THEATER BLOCK REVISION C (08) 38080188.pdf 457.53 kB · 3 downloads

23 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Im confused about your switcher as u call it. The switcher is the 6CHXOV-01. as far as I know.  Then the only other switch is the one from radio to home theater switch.

HOME THEATER BLOCK REVISION C (08) 38080188.pdf 457.53 kB · 3 downloads

The diagram I have, and matches what I can see, shows the switcher box multi wire cables going to some other box I cannot see .  I want to find that other box, as I assume that is where I would connect my radio and TV or home entertainment system.  It appears that there are 2 inputs to it, the radio and the TV or home entertainment system ( which I don't have or are not connected).  I'll try to attach the only doco I have.  Thank you for all the diagrams you sent.  I'll have to study them for awhile and see if it helps me figure out how to get the river park system useful again.

On 2/23/2020 at 8:46 PM, Gary M said:

Dave

Have you talked to riverpark? I have the same unit in my 09 Knight. Ill look for schematics. It maybe a couple of days though.  Hopefully someone else will be faster and my coach is several notches lower than yours. 
I found 5 drawings of the system (2008 Home Theater System). Drawing number 38080188, not sure what u have.

There is someone at whoever now owns RiverPark who did respond to an email.  He still didn't help me figure out where the box is to connect things to the speaker switcher (not an antertainment system as I originally called it).  I'm guessing it is buried behind walls in my overhead compartment.  Apparently it works as I can send my dash radio sound over the front speakes or the rear, or maybe over both by switching my radio switch on or off in the overhead compartment,

The diagram I have, and matches what I can see, shows the switcher box multi wire cables going to some other box I cannot see .  I want to find that other box, as I assume that is where I would connect my radio and TV or home entertainment system.  It appears that there are 2 inputs to it, the radio and the TV or home entertainment system ( which I don't have or are not connected).  I'll try to attach the only doco I have.  Thank you for all the diagrams you sent.  I'll have to study them for awhile and see if it helps me figure out how to get the river park system useful again.

On 2/23/2020 at 8:46 PM, Gary M said:

Dave

Have you talked to riverpark? I have the same unit in my 09 Knight. Ill look for schematics. It maybe a couple of days though.  Hopefully someone else will be faster and my coach is several notches lower than yours. 
I found 5 drawings of the system (2008 Home Theater System). Drawing number 38080188, not sure what u have.

There is someone at whoever now owns RiverPark who did respond to an email.  He still didn't help me figure out where the box is to connect things to the speaker switcher (not an entertainment system as I originally called it).  I'm guessing it is buried behind walls in my overhead compartment.  Apparently it works as I can send my dash radio sound over the front speakers or the rear, or maybe over both by switching my radio switch on or off in the overhead compartment,  Seems to work erratically.

I, too, have a piece of literature with links to specs and other features, but they don't work.  They all send me to whoever now owns riverpark, but the site itself was pretty worthless and did not link to the promised documents.  I would love to have the documents my document says are available buy are not.

Using Executive45's url (SeeLevel to Aladdin harness) I see a wire harness to connect SeeLevel sensors to the Alladin System, but I am having trouble locating where to buy just the sensors and installation instructions for them. 

$130 seems like a lot of money for some wires and connectors, but still may be worth it rather than just building it.  

Dave Jones

I think they are out of business.

I have a 2005 HR Scepter (think Camelot, too) that has a RiverPark 6CHXOV-01 six channel entertainment system inside the cabinet above and to the left of the driver's seat, but I don't think much sound goes through it anymore. I have a 2 page copy of a document that says the system:

Allows dash radio and home theater system to share component speaker system

Custom designed passive crossover network

Frequency steering logic allows full-range radio output to support component speaker system

Protection circuitry prevents speaker damage from Hi-Output amplifiers

Plug-N-Play design with accessory harness set simplifies OEM installation

Simple to operate hideaway design

Eliminates automotive style speakers

The prior owner replaced the TV and the replacement TV uses the TV speakers, not the RiverPark system.  I think the radio (maybe also be replaced) may send a signal through it (I  can change the radio speakers from front to the bedroom by flipping the separate on/off switch that says radio in the cabinet above the driver) but I am not sure if it uses the RiverPark . I have a diagram that shows the 6CHXOV's 3 connectors connect the dash "stereo", the coach speakers, and the home theater system (of which there is none in the coach anymore if there ever was) to the 3 connections of a switcher 6CHXOV-01.  I have no idea where the switcher is.  I also have a separate audio in jack underneath the radio that maybe sends garbled sound through the coach speakers.

So, is the system salvageable?  Where might the switcher box be located?  Does anyone have electrical diagrams showing more than the master box, the switcher box, and cabling between them?  How does one control the output? Any other advice?

Thanks in advance,

Dave Jones

Dave and Lou Jones are in site 63, contrary to the handout that says site 49.  Looking forward to meeting you all.

Thanks for the responses. 

So, I contacted Essex about my door lock issue, and got this response this morning:

Two wires go from the relays to the spring loaded contacts on the door frame.  If those get reversed it will work the way yours is.  Was there any work done on the wiring or the door/frame?

 John  (jechols@keyless.com)

Of course, it turns out I caused it.  I turned the door switch over because the rubber rain deflector had gotten smashed on one side and I was trying to get it back in shape.  Never connected the two events!  Hope that is my worst error on this trip!

I replaced my electronic door lock circuit board a couple of years ago, and it worked fine.  I think the brand was Essex.  Two days ago, it decided my unlock code locked my doors, and my lock code unlocked them.  Weird.  Does the same thing whether I manually enter the code or I use the push button remote controller.  Anybody encounter this or know how to fix it?

Dave Jones

2005 HR Scepter

6 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

My 12.5 Onan was intermittently not powering the fuel pump, it ended up being the Onan $800 control board.  While troubleshooting it I discovered quite a few folks have put a fuel pump switch in rather than spend the $$.  I think that is a great solution if you do not have Automatic Generator Start (AGS).  I have AGS which I use a lot and didn't see a way to put a switch in which would allow AGS operation.  Perhaps someone has figured out the wiring to activate it with a relay??

Pump is aft of the fuel filter,  should be a small cover, lower rear roadside,  which allows access to the pump.  I replaced the Onan pump with an Airtex E11032 fuel pump. https://airtexasc.com/expert-garage/counterfeit-parts/

Thanks for the info.

Dave

6 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

My 12.5 Onan was intermittently not powering the fuel pump, it ended up being the Onan $800 control board.  While troubleshooting it I discovered quite a few folks have put a fuel pump switch in rather than spend the $$.  I think that is a great solution if you do not have Automatic Generator Start (AGS).  I have AGS which I use a lot and didn't see a way to put a switch in which would allow AGS operation.  Perhaps someone has figured out the wiring to activate it with a relay??

Pump is aft of the fuel filter,  should be a small cover, lower rear roadside,  which allows access to the pump.  I replaced the Onan pump with an Airtex E11032 fuel pump. https://airtexasc.com/expert-garage/counterfeit-parts/

6 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

My 12.5 Onan was intermittently not powering the fuel pump, it ended up being the Onan $800 control board.  While troubleshooting it I discovered quite a few folks have put a fuel pump switch in rather than spend the $$.  I think that is a great solution if you do not have Automatic Generator Start (AGS).  I have AGS which I use a lot and didn't see a way to put a switch in which would allow AGS operation.  Perhaps someone has figured out the wiring to activate it with a relay??

Thanks for the suggestions.  To my astonishment, I primed it for over one minute as the manual says, and it started.  We'll see if it keeps working.

Woody, where is the pump?

Dave

2 hours ago, woodylmiller said:

daveyjo, have you checked to make sure the 12 vdc pump is working?  Ours did the same thing, crank like crazy and plenty of fuel in  the tank.  It was the electric "pick-up" pump.  Our problem is not constant and have not had it fixed, I think it's a relay, so we had a switch installed to get 12 vdc to the pump to use when we need it.  Our pump will work fine for months then for no reason it doesn't.  Good thing we have the switch.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty Regal IV

 

Thanks for the idea, Woody.  I'll check it out.  Dave Jones

On my 2005 HR Scepter, my generator slide worked sometimes, and not other times.  It turned out to be the park brake switch.  Cycle the brake switch a few times and try again.

Dave Jones

Anyone have recommendations for generator service in Atlanta? 

How do you troubleshoot a generator?  It wouldn't start, so I installed new fuel filter,   Primed over and over (press/hold stop position on start switch), no help.  Cranks OK.  After holding the switch in prime position for awhile, the light in the switch comes on.  Try to start, just cranks but no firing.  Full fuel tank.

2005 HR Scepter.  Diesel generator.  Onan KDKAK.

Are you sure it is the valve?  My coach leaks down in probably less than 8 hours.  I have replaced a lot of air fittings in the past due to air leaks.  (Have replaced the valve, too.)

I decided to make my own.  After all, aluminum angle iron is readily available.  After making my own, if I had it to do over, I would buy the brackets instead.  It was a PITA and took a lot of time to make them.  Bite the bullet and buy 'em!

Dave Jones

Not quite sure where to post that Dave and Lou Jones will be attending the gathering, and have made reservations with Lazy Days.

Dave Jones

7 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

Walter,

We have four large solar panels mounted on our fiberglass roof with the sticky tape brackets from AM Solar. I was concerned about these brackets holding up but AM assured me they would hold. They have been holding the panels for 5 years now and about 50,000  miles of travel without any issues. AM Solar did suggest that each bracket be covered with Dicor to keep the chemicals used to clean the roof from attacking the adhesive.

I use the double back tape as well.  Works fine.  The tape is 3M/Scotch brand  VHB (very high bond)double sided tape . It is even used in some parts of aircraft assembly.  However, make sure the roof is clean before adhering the brackets.  I had a coating of Mop and Glo on my roof, and apparently I didn't get it all off before attaching brackets to the roof.  The tape stuck very well to the mop n glo, but the mop n glo came off the roof under one or two brackets.  Cleaned things up, reapplied with new tape, and they have been holding fine for two years now.  On my former coach, I held the panels down with just roof caulking for 10 years just fine.