Gary Petersen

2002' Signature:

Our current valve labeled  Fresh Water Fill is leaking at the handle stem. When this valve handle is rotated from vertical to the horizontal, it points to "Nine O'clock" and to a label which states, "Fresh Water Fill Open". When I rotate the handle back to the vertical position, it points to a sign which states "City Water Closed". I pulled the panel-cover to find a three port valve connected to two separate blue PEX lines with the central port dedicated  to the entering garden hose fitting for fresh water access. I am having trouble understanding the exact port function in each position of the handle. The port on left feeds directly into a brass, Back-flow prevent (BFP)  valve just prior to it connecting to the blue PEX pipe on the left.                WHY a BFP?           I can't see where that PEX goes but it is heading back towards the Aqua Hot. The blue PEX pipe on the right disappears in behind the Black tank.   Help me understand what all the functions should be:                 1. To provide city water directly to each fixture.                                                           2. Provide a direct pathway to fill the fresh water tank.                                          3. ???? close off, or open, all access, or????

 Ultimately, I need advice selecting the proper replacement valve;                      do I need a L-Port or a T port valve.   At first look, I see some 3 port replacement valves have their handles pointing down over the central access port. Can those handles be rotated 180 degrees and still provide the required pathways and functions?

OK, school me....

For a knowledgabe opinion: You may want to find a specialty Brake and Alignment shop, for commercial trucks.

The "Steps are open" warning icon is illuminated in the dash panel of my 2002' Signature.

However, when I close the entrance door, the steps do retract.

Advice as to where to start my trouble shooting process?

Am I correct in assuming that the double pin switch in the door jam could be at fault?

I have never seen a similar switch; if needed, are replacements available?

Thanks,

My 2 Cents:

After leaving the Gillette Rally in July we broke down 60 Miles from civilization and Billings Montana.

Called Coachnet and they found Hanser's Towing of Billings which could accommodate my specific request for flat bed trailer for our 40' coach.

Since we don't Toad:     Hanser sent out a total of three employees with a courtesy car & driver to chauffeur us to TriState Truck Center in Billings. (Cummins et all) ($2,500)

Coachnet and Hanser's made a very worrisome situation into a sigh of relief.

And Then!

Yesterday, the clutch in my pickup stopped working while on errands in town. I called Coachnet and they dispatched my recommended towing company and within the hour, my truck was delivered to the repair shop. All I had to do from home was give the tow operator the address and license number of the truck. Later, I delivered the key to the repair shop and by yesterday evening I was able to pick up my repaired truck.

I never signed anything or saw a bill for towing. By phone, the towing company said everything was taken care of by Coachnet.

My experience with Coachnet has been GREAT.

Drain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfOk, it has been since Sept when I posted my plea for help with my sink drain issue. Well, due to "supply chain" issues, and a busy schedule, I was just finally able to install a new drain hose with an 1 1/2" Aluminum drain swivel. I am "attempting" to attach a copy of the article from the RV Forum which I stumbled across (where are the techie grand kids when you need them?) and what I think is an excellent solution to the hose kinking problem.

The source mentioned in the article for the Aluminum swivel, I found was no longer available so, our local industrial hose store was able to order a comparable 1 1/2" Wedgon brand Aluminum Swivel. I wish I had found Mike's flexpvc.com source as I could have saved a bunch of cash. As a prevent maint. I replaced all the ABS from the "P" trap to the swivel's male aluminum threads. So, coming onto the Swivel, I put a 1 1/2" female ABS threaded coupler.  Coming out of the 90 degree swivel is a Male threaded PVC coupler which transitioned to accept the new PVC spa hose (from Home Depot). I tried to follow the design and process of the article and although it required some minor adaptations, and some cramped working conditions, so far. I feel please with the results and would recommend using a swivel to others who have this issue.

Drain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdfDrain pipes under the kitchen slide keep coming apart | The RV Forum Community.pdf

This why I appreciate all the Monacoers members so much. I find that Monacoers consistently want to be helpful by, freely sharing their knowledge and experiences.

Ivan K, A special Thank You to you.

It looks like you sent me a source for the exact part I need. (The Branded part # seems to match).

I immediately sent off my order.  Their ETA is next Monday.

Happy Thanksgiving to ALL.

2002 Signature: The Red Lense for the RR Brake light previously over heated and melted part of the receptical so that the bulb holder no longer will secure itself within the lense.

I see some number and letters Branded into the grey plastic on the back. 

Where does one start to look, or how can I find replacements for both the lense and the bulb holder?

Thanks

Gary

In checking, I found that my regulator is broken and I need a replacement.

As per Georges suggestion above, I looked for a Watts 0-125 PSI. Those first described online are indicated for water use.

Does the regulator know if it is regulating water or air? Any recommendations for a specific replacement model?

2002' Sig

John,

So very sorry to hear of your troubles.

I work within a block of the Cummins shop in Everett.

Please give me call if I can be of service, or local advice.

Hope to hear from you.

Gary (425-501-0000)

2002' Sig

Richard,

I appreciate the tip; If I can't figure out a permanent fix in the next few days, I will give Elite a call.

Thanks,

Joe,

It is comforting to know that one is not alone with this problematic  system.

I do not see any pulley type system which would roll, or assist the movement of the  flexible pipe in my system. 

Do you recall if your hose system had a "Glued" 45 degree PVC fitting as shown in my photo?

Any advice as to what you did to solve your problem?   My Furnco connector did not work.

Were you able to use the existing pipe or did you have to replace the existing pipe with something new? 

Thanks,

My problem is with the kitchen sink drain in our 2002' Signature Centurion which has the drivers side kitchen slide-out. We started getting  sink water running across the floor whenever we drained the kitchen sink. I thought at first, this sounds like a reasonably easy plumbing issue to fix. Wow, was I wrong.

I located the white colored, and stiffly corrugated 1 1/2" PVC Flexible drain pipe. I found that due to the lack of cabinet space, I could see that the pipe had been abruptly kinked to 90 degrees against the inside wall of the cabinet, specifically when the sink is in the "slide-in" position. Question: Could this possibly be Monaco's original design? Or did I find some after market repair? 

This sharp 90 degree kinking occurs just after the transition from ABS to the flexible drain. It must have happened so many times that it fractured the flexible corrugated  pipe. (photo below)

This design requires that the drain pipe be flexible so as to maintain the the integrity of the drain while constantly flexing as it maintains the 180 degree turn as the "slide-out" travel makes the pipe move several inches.

I cut out the "kink" and tried to reconnect the piping using a Fernco fitting with double hose clamps but the drain pipe pulls out of the Fernco when the Slide is sent out.

Is this the original plumbing system and has anyone else had to deal with this? I am north of Seattle; can anyone suggest a shop that may be  familiar with this Monaco system? 

Thanks, Gary

Thanks to all.

I found and replaced a blown 5 amp fuse near the mono bloc and that illuminated the interior panel and also fired off the water pump.

However, our originally installed refrigerator control panel  still would not illuminate. I removed the exterior refer panel and found a red warning light illuminated.

I called a local tech and he said just get a powerful magnet (250 lb lifting capacity) from Harbor Freight and hold it up close to the red warning light. 

I did that and POW! the refrigerator miraculously came to life. I think we are all back in operation.

Happy Trails,

Has anyone run into this electrical problem before?  Hoping to leave Wednesday for FMCA / Gillette. Doing my trip preparation on our 2002' Signature, I found that when I pushed the "Panel LTS" rocker switch to the on position (on the Trace house panel), nothing illuminates or operates except Generator switch. None of the gauges move.

I know my tanks are not all empty.   Any suggestions as to where to start?

Why don't the panel lights illuminate??

Why don't my gauges move or deflect? 

Electrical is Not a knowledgeable Topic for me. 

Suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks, 

Gary 

I recently found our our stored 2002 Signature with dead houses batteries and a melted 20 amp wall receptacle along with the melted 30 amp dog bone and I also found an unmarked breaker which had tripped. I replaced the all the melted components with new. I have no idea what caused the meltdown. Perhaps a receptacle wiring which was not fully tight?      Without a label, I have no idea what the tripped breaker protects. I reset the breaker and now all batteries continue to be charged.

However then I find; The CM-7, 50 Amp Cable reel system does not work, when I hit the payout, (or "cable-in") switch. I can barely see the motor at the back of this dark cavern so, it looks like it really isn't easily accessible without removing the entire coiler unit. (ugh job) With little, to no knowledge of electricity; I thought I should start at the breaker panel. The CM-7 Manual says the motor should be subject to a separate 20 amp breaker. I found that we have two breaker panels inside a bedroom cabinet and as I previously mentioned, with one having a tripped unmarked breaker. Looking at both panels, I can not find a "Panel Label" which denotes anything related to the CM-7 Cablemaster unit.    Any one know where I should be looking for this designated breaker? Any suggestion as to how best to attack this non working cable reel?                                                                                                                            My Harbor Freight VOM came with an instruction chapter that might just make me dangerous. Suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks Gary,

2002 Sig

On 10/15/2020 at 5:25 AM, veraken said:

In case you don't have it, here is the manual

 

 

Xantrex RC-7 Manual.pdf 775.91 kB · 13 downloads

As is commonly said "Thanks, I needed that!" the manual.

I want to let all of those who responded to my plea for suggestions regarding my Surge / Transfer question, how much I appreciate you all, and just to be a member of such a helpful group. We are continuing our daily travel trip north towards home and I look forward to using these suggestions later next week to resolve the issue.

Thanks,

Gary

2002' Sig

Help,

Sitting with 105 degree outside temperature, and running our three AC's here in Yuma, AZ. on 50 Amp shore power, as we Shelter in Place.

Then, Bam! everything shut down and I found the coach was now on inverter mode. Thus, no AC was available until I started the 12K Generator. The Generator ran all three AC's without issues. Then, I went outside to check out the issue.

Investigating, I looked at the Leviton Surge Protector and found that the two, normally green indicator lights were dark.  Since I did not see a reset button on the protector, I decided shut everything down in the coach and also shut off the pedestal breakers. 

After shutting down the Generator, I waited 5 minutes and then restored the pedestal power. After a few more minutes I heard a click and found that  One  of the green Surge Protector indicator lights was fully illuminated but the remaining green light was also illuminated but was noticeably dimmer.  

I phased in the 3 AC's but after 15 minutes, Bam! everything shut down again. 

I then went through the same shut down sequence and was able to restore power but this time I am only running the two rear AC's  and it has been handling the load just fine for the past two hours. We expect to leave for Seattle tomorrow and try to make repairs in my shop.

Electrical is not my strong suite. Any suggestion as to how I can pin point the problem  as possible Transfer Switch or is it a Surge Protector issue (or is it just a 105 degree issue) and then any recommendation for sizing, and any quality brand names if parts need to be replaced.

Thanks,

Gary 

2002' Signature