Gary Petersen

"Is this for stated value, is so what value did you agree on?" To follow up on Jacwjames' above insurance question, I was enlightened to received the following "coverage" response from my insurance agent. "Actual Cash Value: ACV is defined as replacement cost, less depreciation. In WA, this also means market value. Vehicles are generally written on an ACV basis. When your 2005 Suburban is stolen, the insurance carrier will try to determine the current market value of a 2005 Suburban with similar features and condition of yours. All of your vehicles, including the motorhome, are on an ACV basis". OK, Is ACV typical across the US? Or just in Washington? I appreciated the question which, helped me to better understand my insurance coverage.

I asked our agent about my cost for our 2002 Sig from Encompass. For your reference, I post his responses. Your motorhome is covered on your Encompass policy and has $500,000 liability limit. Your Encompass policy has $1,500,000 excess that applies over vehicle and homes. You have $2,000,000 vehicle liability coverage. Annual premium for the motorhome is $362. Gary, You DO have coverage for Physical damage to your RV from collision and/or fire/theft/trees/etc. Deductible is $1,000 and this cost is included in the $362 annual premium. You have this coverage on all vehicles EXCEPT the 1980 Toyota pickup.

Our Status: Wow, what a relief, Currently all systems are operational. I do have a VOM, and the Trojan 145's are 3 months old. It is Difficult to decipher but the Delco Start batteries could be 2017'. OK Ivan's photo prompted me to open up the RRB. I see the two Solenoids off to the right side. As I was pushing the wires aside to get a good photo of their terminals, my finger touched the metal cases. Particularly the Solenoid farthest to the right was so hot that I can NOT keep skin contact. Is that to be expected?? When I looked closely at my terminal photo on the lower right solenoid, I zoomed in to see the black cable coming over the top of the unit connected to a smaller terminal, I see that it looks like it is so corroded, it is ready to separate and break connection. Visually, it looks to me that the Solenoids are likely the issue. Regardless, I Do plan on replacing that corroded ring connector. So, help me with my questions: Would it make sense to just replace both Solenoids to a Fresh OEM status? Tom addressed this but, I am still curious to understand; When does one Ever need, or use, the Battery Cut Out rocker switch? What abilities are lost if a Jumper cable is used across the Solenoid? Would both Solenoids require their own individual Jumper cable? Lastly, I dream about the possible future installation of the Blue Seas ACR system. Would any of the above repairs interfere with that installation? Thanks, Gary

My daylight update: Later last night, I also found that the two T stats were dead so, we had no heat. We have been consistently using the Heat Pumps. (only needed at night here in Mesa) This morning, being very anxious, I was really encouraged to already see four responses with suggestions. In my simple brain; Thinking that no one was near the Battery Cut Out switch, that couldn't have been inadvertently tripped to the shut off power position. This morning, after getting out the wiring diagrams manual, and recognizing my limited ability to understand the information, I decided to start with the suggested Salesman Switch, just as the three above responses directed. Since last night I had not moved the Salesman to the 12V shut off position, I moved the Rocker to the shut off power position and then returned the switch to allow 12V power to be delivered, and miraculously, the all power was restored! Thanks to you Three for your sage "Cut Out" advice to solve my immediate problem. However, I am wondering what caused this shut down? Would it be the result of running three heat pumps, which overloaded some component? Looking at RRB diagram below, is there a component there, that could be at issue?

This evening I am on shore power in our 2002 Sig utilizing the computer and all of a sudden, all of the ceiling, and interior perimeter puck lights go OFF. I see that all appliances, and the 110 receptacles, are functioning as they should but, darn it is dark in here. I checked the two house panels for a tripped circuit breaker and all seems fine there. At this late hour, MDW is asleep so it makes marital sense for me to wait for the morning day-light hours to start my investigation. This situation has never happened before so, I am curious as to what has caused this? So "Now What?" I'm looking for your suggestions as to possible sources of the problem, and where should I start looking? Thanks

Humbly, I do not understand all of the member's knowledgable contributions discussing this 12V electrical problem. If memory serves me correctly, it sounds like a problem I had sometime ago with the pump not working. As with my situation; Could the Relay that feeds into the Multi-Switch be providing inconsistent voltage?? As I recall, I went to Napa and got a new HD (40 amp? ) headlight relay and that replacement part solved my problem.

Curiously, why corrosion appears on side, and not the other? Plausible, they used incompatible alloy on one side for this application. Or, it indicates this original surface was exposed to something outside the neutral PH 4 to 6 range for Aluminum. TPO a bad choice,..difficult to fit on, and secure to the contoured surface and, also, with ANY moisture , it’s Greased Lightning! Whatever you were to put in the thin Aluminum holes, you need to be confident that it has some physics to hold it there. I would feel more confident with something that goes over, and securely covers the holes. My two cents for an economical and virtually permanent solution for this DIY project. Start by, CLEANING the painted roof surface with a quick, (but thorough), wipe down with Acetone as a cleaning agent using lots of fresh Clean rags to pick up dust. Acetone’s long term contact, can lift the paint. (also, don’t store the damp dirty, and combustable rags inside ). Now, Clean the exposed Aluminum with 50 / 50 vinegar / distilled water solution to clean and Etch the AL. Finally, lightly “damp wipe” the Aluminum with just distilled water and let it thoroughly dry. Now, spot cover Holes with reasonably sized pieces of, Eternabond Tape. Next: Mask off perimeter Non-work areas. Then, Google RC 2000 and look at Inland Coatings, as they have a two part coating system designed specifically for Metal Roofs. In this case it is important that the coatings remains slightly flexible, especially over time on a dynamic RV roof system. Check out RC 2013 as their metal roof primer, which should be "Rolled On” the entire roof surface. Then, (also rolled on), their Top coat RC 2014, this step is Required. I have been impressed with the surface adhesion of the RC 2000 products. YOU, can solve this!

To make sure that I am getting the correct coolant; Does the Blue label ES Concentrated liquid, have a blue color? With the Fleetguard ES Concentrate, am I correct in assuming I would now use a "blank" filter.

I especially appreciate the reference warning regarding the Low Silicate and the linked document which, gave me the quantity number (11 1/2 gal) for which I was looking. A big Thank You, comin' at You!

2002' Sig with Cummins 500 ISM which, has dirty coolant. The engine and radiator need to be flushed, and new green coolant installed. I plan to purchase the concentrate and distilled H2O, to mix my own to 50/50. How can I find out how many gallons of Concentrate to purchase before, I start this project? Thanks,

Silly me! 2002' Sig Coach In storage, I left the coach with the headlights on but, coach was plugged into shore power. I returned to find ignition and (2017') Start batteries DEAD. 7V Inexperienced, I quickly tried the Battery Boost switch a couple of times without success. Afraid of doing any damage, I stopped, and hooked up a battery charger which, over night restored starting ability to 13.2V. Why, with the active shore power available, did the batteries die? What should I do if we were stuck while "boon docking"? Would a Blue Sea ACR have prevented this?

First: Those Shackles look like they are Galvanized so, for Your Health and safety, I would be reluctant to use a torch to apply heat which, can induce Galvanizing Poison Gas which is not your friend. Yes, the "Clevis Pins" are threaded. So, I agree with Paul's great Penetrating recipe, or at least apply some store bought Penetrating oil and apply it, and let that soak for a few minutes , before your attack. Then, with at least a 12" Adjustable End Wrench (Use of a Crescent brand is OK) and, as Johnny Mo said, tighten the wrench on the flat portion of the "Clevis Pin" and spin the wrench handle to the left until the Shackle frame hits the adjoining flat steel plate and then, start applying your maximum force. If you need a longer lever slip a piece of steel pipe over the wrench handle. Per Archimedes: Give me a Lever long enough, and I can move the World. 🙂 Best of Luck

Just preventive thinking ahead: Where does one look to locate the exact location of my 2002 Sig Generator Slide Solenoid? Thanks, Gary

My appreciation to all, for your advice and support regarding my AC issue. As suggested, I first gently sprayed compress air and then sprayed the Evaporator and Coil with a spray foam cleaner which did a fine job of sloughing off the dirt and grime before a final cleanup. I found your noted photographic description of exactly where the new AC foam tape was to be located on my early AC models, especially helpful. I am truly impressed with the recommendation of the new ICON brand shrouds from Amazon. After a minor straightening of the AC's sheet metal, my new Stainless Steel screws aligned perfectly with holes in all three of the AC's and shrouds. These shrouds are awesome. Now, all I have to do is look for some warmer weather, South of Seattle, to be able to use them. Thank You's

OK, my three new "vented" ICON Shrouds arrived today, along with my foam gasket material which, I hope to install on my 2002 Sig.. Today was my first opportunity to kinda see down into the exposed units. I don't think any of the original AC units ever had their shrouds off. They look pretty dirty from my ladder perch. How, and what Maintenance should I perform to Clean, or Lube the units, before I install the new shrouds? Is there anything to be done under the sheetmetal cover. Thanks, Gary

Bruce, Do you have any more details as to the part number you found or, where you found the source for this exact fit? Thanks, Gary

I am looking for a source for replacement of this sealed light fixture in my 02 Sig wet bay. I don't see any way of accessing the bulb inside so it seems to be a sealed fixture. I can't find a brand name or numbers on the unit. Where might I look?

Scotty, We are so grateful to you and others for your gracious efforts to continue to provide us with this Unique and Specialized resource, which helps the many members to keep our coaches up and running. Your efforts are a Blessing to us All! Thank You!

2002 Signature The water pump is not receiving voltage (the line fuse at the pump is OK) and also, the bank of hallway ceiling lights are not working. I have been hunting for the related fuse, or a source of power for each, but no luck. Looking for guidance as to where to look and the process that I should follow to locate and trace this down Thanks, Gary

2002' Signature; I don't know what to call it, as it looks like a switch but, it's only a lamp. In my wet bay this lamp, which illuminates to indicates when the water pump is in operation, is not working. Looking for advice on finding replacement. Thanks, Gary

1/2 inch 3-Way Stainless Steel 304 Ball Valve - L Port With Mounting Pad, 1000PSI NPT This is a stainless steel valve which I found on Amazon and it is of the highest quality. The Engraved directional stem marking match up. A little pricy but I am well pleased. I also purchased a new check valve.

Once again I am so grateful to our group and appreciate the willingness to share the knowledge and experiences to help one another. Ivan's response has shown me options for installing a SeeLevel system which I had not considered. Thanks

Need To SeeLevels I am unable to adjust The original Potentiometers for Fresh water, Gray, or the Black tank analog dials on our 2002' Signature. I want to install a SeeLevel system with an added monitor in the wet bay, and I hope to utilize original wiring traveling from tanks to the existing panel. Questions: As the photos indicate, I am short on cabinet-"panel real estate". Therefore, I am including a photo of the larger existing panel which, I believe I can only rely upon for the TRACE portion; to see the current status of the float / bulk charge notification. Just to the left of the larger panel, there is a smaller monitor which is labeled RV-30D Charge Controller which, has Never illuminated any information since my ownership. It seems the RV30D is dead. What was its purpose?? Since it has never provided me with any timely information, can I "remove" it, and extend the designated existing wires to a, new to be installed, SeeLevel panel in its space? Your thoughts please. Also, Of the four analog dials on the far right, the two on the left indicate 120 AC voltage when I'm on shore power but, I have Never seen any registrations on the two dials on the right. Why might that be? Thanks, Gary

This is just my experience, I've found that I don't need to be a tech-guy. I can't even remember how many years it has been since I made the switch from the ongoing pain and frustration of my old PC XP to a Mac from the local Apple Store ....and they transferred everything for me. Over those many years, whenever I have a computer problem, I just call the 1-800 number and immediately, I give their tech-support (a real human) access to my computer and to date, they have never failed to zero in and quickly help me to correct the computer or email problem, FOR me. Just my experience. I hope you find the best solution that fits your needs.

2002' Signature: Our current valve labeled Fresh Water Fill is leaking at the handle stem. When this valve handle is rotated from vertical to the horizontal, it points to "Nine O'clock" and to a label which states, "Fresh Water Fill Open". When I rotate the handle back to the vertical position, it points to a sign which states "City Water Closed". I pulled the panel-cover to find a three port valve connected to two separate blue PEX lines with the central port dedicated to the entering garden hose fitting for fresh water access. I am having trouble understanding the exact port function in each position of the handle. The port on left feeds directly into a brass, Back-flow prevent (BFP) valve just prior to it connecting to the blue PEX pipe on the left. WHY a BFP? I can't see where that PEX goes but it is heading back towards the Aqua Hot. The blue PEX pipe on the right disappears in behind the Black tank. Help me understand what all the functions should be: 1. To provide city water directly to each fixture. 2. Provide a direct pathway to fill the fresh water tank. 3. ???? close off, or open, all access, or???? Ultimately, I need advice selecting the proper replacement valve; do I need a L-Port or a T port valve. At first look, I see some 3 port replacement valves have their handles pointing down over the central access port. Can those handles be rotated 180 degrees and still provide the required pathways and functions? OK, school me....