dennis.mcdonaugh

Thanks!  I Got it back on. What should I torque the bolts to?  The bolts threads are 12 mm with a 10 mm head. I looked up grade 8.8 bolts and it said 65 ft/lbs. I’m pretty sure they weren’t that tight. The next grade on the list was 5.6 and 28 lbs was specified for them. 

I removed the valve assembly this morning. I can't see what was providing a seal between the engine block and the valve body. There's no sign of anything like the aluminum gasket the new one has or any type of sealant. You can see the two 3/4 NPT fittings that bekec1 mentioned a couple posts above. I think I'm going to  go the route he did and stick two plugs in those holes. I wish I'd known about that 10 or so years ago when I bought the new valve body.

26 minutes ago, bekec1 said:

When you get the coolant filter housing removed from the engine, look at the coolant passages in the engine block. In the block of my ISC the passages were threaded 3/4 NPT. I installed a 3/4 inch pipe plug in each passage and deleted the coolant filter completely as I had also changed to OAT long life coolant, no SCA required and filtering not as necessary.

I’ve had mine turned off for years since I had a blank filter (no SCAs) anyway. Eliminating the housing would definitely have eliminated the possibility of the valve leaking. 

I received the blank coolant filter yesterday and decided to replace the coolant valve today. I had a plan, turn off the valve, remove the old filter, turn the valve on and let the coolant drain. Remove four bolts and the valve, replace with four new bolts and new valve, install the new filter and replace lost coolant.

Things went south after the first step. The filter was stuck and I broke my filter wrench trying to get it off. None of my other filter wrenches were big enough or they were too big to work so off to NAPA to get a replacement. The new one was more robust than the 40 year old wrench I broke so I was sure I'd have the filter off in no time. It was so tight I bent the filter and twisted the new wrench. Plan B was to just take the four bolts out with the filter still attached.

The valve is held on by four 24-year old M10 bolts so I was really worried about breaking one off. I think you'd have to take off the manifold and turbo to get a broken bolt out because there is no space there to get a drill in there.  I used a ratcheting gear wrench because they aren't very long so I couldn't put a lot of torque on the bolts. I still had to pull on them pretty hard, even after spraying them with Kroil every day since last Monday. I worked back and forth and sprayed them again and in the end they came out intact and I backed them out just enough so the coolant could drain into the big square tub I used to collect it. After an hour, I'd estimate two gallons have come out. 

I'm going to let it drain over night and put the new valve on tomorrow. 

My 2000 Dynasty S Series chassis uses the same bag as Jim's Windsor, the Firestone number is W01-358-9376.  

7 hours ago, Ivan K said:

There should not be much oil lost if you had to remove the oil filter to gain access, at least not on my engine since most all of it will be in the pan. Just as much as drained when you removed the filter for oil change.

Thanks, I didn't know that. Now I have to decide which is worse, wrestling the oil filter off or leaning over the bed frame to get that top bolt off.

On another note, the coolant valve has stopped leaking again, just like it did about 8 years ago when I bought the new one I have in the box.

On 3/30/2024 at 9:03 AM, wamcneil said:

Not the same engine (isl), but I drained about 4 gal when rebuilding my coolant filter valve

Thanks

I’m still waiting on the new empty coolant filter to arrive. Why does the empty one cost double what one with SCAs cost?  In the meantime I’m spraying the bolts with Kroil every day in hopes that they all come out easily. 

I can get to 3 bolts from the bottom, but one I have to reach through the exhaust manifold from the top. That is the upper bolt next to the oil filter. The filter totally blocks it from below. 

If this leak had started a couple days earlier, I could have replaced it while the oil was drained from the engine. 

I used Penguin 2s. I had to change both thermostats. The heat pump operation is wonky in the front unit. It also controls the furnace. I used to be able to select A/C, furnace or heat pump. Now I can only select heat or A/C. When heat is selected, the furnace or heat pump comes on, depending on the difference between ambient temp and selected temp. If there’s a big gap, the furnace comes on. Once the gap is smaller the furnace goes off and heat pump comes on. 

The first time I changed the coolant, I didn’t realize I had to pull out the hose attached to the radiator cap and top off the coolant level. The system was low and I didn’t know it. The level in the overflow tank was correct. The generator would run 10-15 minutes and shut down. 

Wow. That’s all I can say, just wow!  You and your boys did and incredible job. 

You can replace the o-rings on the valve?

5 hours ago, Benjamin said:

I'd guess several gallons.  There's usually a coolant drain under there on the bottom side of the oil cooler housing, or drain from the radiator petcock if that's easier.  No need to drain it all, 3-4 gallons should get the coolant level below that valve, strain the coolant as you pour it back in.  It's just an O ring seal on that black plastic valve core, if you can get that out in one piece it's reusable.  They're commonly broken so somebody would want an intact one.  It's also not needed if you drain the coolant to change the filter, if you've swapped to OAT then you probably don't have to change the filter ever again. 

I'm not sure what o-ring you are talking about.  I have the whole housing and it comes with a metal gasket - its the new version with better valve handles.  I've used a blank coolant filter (Fleetguard WF2122) since since I switched to OAT coolant over ten years ago. Here's a picture of the where the leak falls on the ground. I was wondering about reusing the coolant since its only a few years old. I can strain it with a paint strainer and cheesecloth before putting it back into the engine.

After driving the coach for its yearly inspection, I noticed a small wet spot under the engine a couple days later. I did a cursory inspection when I changed the oil and filter, but saw no wet spot or drips on the bottom of the engine. 
 

A few days later the spot was still there. A more thorough inspection revealed I may have a leak in the valve for the SCA canister, the one you can shut off to replace the canister. 
 

Luckily, I have a new one in the box on the shelf. Anyone have any idea how much fluid I’m likely to lose changing out that valve?  

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

This is more likely the dryer you need.

https://firsttruckparts.com/en-ca/products/4324130010-genuine-wabco®-air-dryer-system-saver-1200

That's a good price too.

10 minutes ago, Chuck H said:

Found the tag(4324130010)under who knows how many years of dirt. Am I to assume in order to find a real OEM drier I sould call Wabco?

You can get it lots of places.

This is is pricy, but do a search.

https://www.anythingtruck.com/product/815-4324710010.html

This is the cheapest one I saw that actually said Meritor or Wabco on it. Beware of cheap knockoffs.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/11914822/wabco-4324803417

I take mine out every 5 years or so and rebuild it using the upper and lower parts kit. Even though I serviced it regularly, a rubber seal gave up and it leaked air. 

It’s not hard to get out. Most fittings are brass, you might spray the mounting bracket. 

I have both kits on my bench waiting for me to install. It actually might be easier to just buy a new air dryer every 10 years. 

I just changed the oil, oil filter, coolant, air filter, and both fuel filters. For some reason my generator has a Racor fuel filter on the back of the generator too. Its the kind with the plastic bowl for trapping water so I'm assuming one of the two POs had an issue with fuel contamination.  I need to clean the spark arrestor too, thanks for reminding me. I ordered a belt so at least I have one with me if mine breaks.

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

No, but your Cummins engine probably is wet sleeved, and most only want to carry one type of spare coolant.

I've been running Peak OAT coolant in the coach since about 2008 and continue to run regular coolant, Prestone this time, in the generator. Carrying the left over quart of Prestone antifreeze doesn't seem as big a deal as the procedure you have to go through to change to OAT coolant in the generator.

That’s not the recommended coolant for my 24 year old Onan generator. Nothing wrong with it, but most of our generators are not wet sleeve design and don’t require SCAs in regular coolant or an OAT coolant. 
 

The manual says drain, flush and replace coolant every two years - that seems a little excessive to me. When I bought the MH in 2016, I changed the coolant with Prestone and the label said it was good for 3 year so I went with that. I changed it again in 2019 and used Peak this time which had a label that said it was good for 5 years. So 5 years later, I just replaced it again with Prestone, but now the label says its long life and good for 10 years. What's everyone else doing about the change interval on their generator coolant?

I replaced mine about 5 years ago as two of them cracked. I went with regular light bulbs instead of LEDs. Both the clear squares that were for backup lights on the Blazer were red on my lights so I painted the clear spots red on the replacements.

I don't know if this has been covered before, but Cummins offers a 10% military discount on on-line parts orders. You have to use IDme to verify your eligibility.

https://shop.cummins.com/SC/

29 minutes ago, dereeves said:

We just drove this 2000 Diplomat from Lakeside, OR to here in Oklahoma City, OK at the end of Feb. The cheapest diesel we paid was like $3.79 a gallon and most was over $4.00 per gallon. I was wanting to keep tab of it for the overall fuel price for that and the Navigator that had to come back as well, but a quarter way into the trip i decided i didn't want to know that. Oh and the route was OR to Bend, OR then south through NV and across AZ and NM on I-40, which was kind of like a Ukrainian highway, or how i imagine a Ukrainian highway is after 2 years of war...

No, that gets discouraging right away. 

I got a little over 4 years out of my pair of detectors - they both quit within a month of each other. Normally I get 5 years of life out of one. When I was replacing the one below the stove, I blew its 1 amp fuse. I had done this before and it took me a long time to find the fuse that time.

 You'd think I’d remember where it was, but nope, and it took me a long time to find my notes. I finally did locate them and the fuse is in the rear run bay in a 2000 Dynasty.

One of the replacement detectors was labeled 2022, but this shouldn’t be an issue because I think the clock starts running when it is powered up right?

I wonder why the fuse isn’t with the other house fuses in the bedroom?

9 hours ago, Kenster said:

 

I normally keep up with maintenance yearly, but I didn't change any fluids the last two years since I didn't drive it 30 miles in that time. I  have the ISC and use Mobil Delvac Heavy Duty diesel oil from Walmart for $14.82 a gallon.