dennis.mcdonaugh

The first counter place I walked into sold Corian and had a scrap just the size I needed in my pattern. He said it was still current even though it’s a 2000 coach. 

Your set up is different than mine. I replaced the propane stove a few years back after the 12 volts for the igniter shorted out and caught fire.

Here's the link to what I did on iRV2

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/do-you-smell-smoke-411575.html

37 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Saddle ports are not a fix I would consider as anything close to permanent, they WILL leak. I used them just to quickly see if there is any pressure, find the leak and then braze a real port in their place. They could even be just soldered in just like one would do with copper plumbing, if not right at the compressor. But I don't have to pay anyone to do it for me.

They were soldered in place. You could tell they were a modification to add a charging port and not part of the original installation. Good luck with your repair.

My a/c units both had saddle charging ports installed when I bought the coach. Both units slowly lost coolant until I had to replace them. They had charging ports installed for a reason, they leaked!  A lot of owners have spent money, some a lot of money, to repair these units and had to replace them anyway. 

1 hour ago, eddie4ne said:

We are in Washington and have unusual wear on the right drive tire. My greatest fear is a drive tire blowout, enhanced by the tradegy recently on I-81. Have 2 Toyo tires scheduled to be installed for about $1500 tomorrow at Les Schwab in Anacortes, WA. What is the oldest acceptable manufacture date?

I'd like it to be this month! Unfortunately, that doesn't happen so my hard and fast rule is within six months of manufacture. 

d***. 

On 8/2/2023 at 5:46 PM, cbr046 said:

That many butt connectors will make for a very big bulge at the junction point.  And each connection is only as good as the crimp. 

I'm pretty good at soldering (or at least used to be) so if that were my harness I would cut / strip each wire, jam the two ends together (intermixing the strands together) solder then heat shrink tubing (don't forget to put the tubing on before soldering!).  The key is to make sure the copper isn't oxidized so the solder flows.  But that's me.  Individual results may vary.

- bob

You staggerthe splices by an inch and half and you’re good. 

I’ve only used them on low voltage circuits, but the ones I got from Amazon work great. 

3 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

SMART and well done.  You understood and did it like it should be.  MOST are realizing that now, but way back when, folks were insulating to beat the band, putting tight fitting shrouds or facades and not bracing or driloing holes in the sides and ruining the new unit.

The conversion techs did not “grasp” the concept.

BUT…eventually the word spread….

Thanks.

One other than I did was put the temp sensor for the generator auto start just behind that top vent in case power goes out while we’re out of the motorhome. We have dogs and that seemed like the best place to get an early warning. We also use a marcell environmental sensor, but some times we’re camping out of cell service. 

I read all the info on replacing the fridge and this one is small enough to leave room all the way around for ventilation and I put a vent screen on the front at the top where I had 6” of headspace. I also blocked the outside vent by attaching 1” of rigid foam board insulation to the inside of the vent. I also used foam board to seal the roof vent and covered it with aluminum sheet. 
 

I still had enough room for a broom closet on the side. there was a little weathering evident on the wood inside the outside vent so I sanded down what I could and replaced what I couldn’t and covered it with fiberglass.

On 8/24/2021 at 8:30 PM, Bob Jones said:

I'll probably get shot for this (I fear it as I'm 'new' to the site) but I was recently looking at the  Frigidaire # FFHT1425VV as someone else here used it. By the looks of it, it's plug n' play even though I have a furnace under my fridge (so did he). Up here, in Canada, that fridge is $850 in stainless and less in white. That's about $670 USD but it's likely to be cheaper in the US due to competition. Cheaper yet if you don't go for the stainless.

That fridge costs $40 to run per YEAR based on .12c per KWH. What that means is that it costs less to run that fridge for one year then it does for my Norcold for one month......

In my case, that fridge will pay for itself very quickly. But here's the thing, I know from experience that my 4 Trojan batteries will power the Norcold for about 10 hours, roughly. How long would those batteries power a fridge that uses a fraction of the power of the Norcold? Probably days. To me, that would be a massive benefit to anyone boondocking. 

Then you get the benefit of not having to deal with door seals, the complexity of it, the chance of a leak, and...most importantly, the fact that they are known to burn a unit to the ground very, very quickly. One guy on this site went through that and he won't set foot in a unit with a Norcold because it freaked him out that badly. Apparently these things burn very very fast. Scary fast from the sounds of it. 

If my Norcold was not performing so well, I would be down at the store right now buying a Frigidaire # FFHT1425VV as fast as I could. The power saving alone makes it pay for itself in about 1.5 years. The reduction in fire risk? Probably priceless. The reduction in load on the inverter? Massive benefit. Just my 0.02c worth. But it seems to me, that for boondocking, you want something that uses little power. Bear in mind, I refuse to run mine on propane because of the open flame in proximity to the flammable gases in the back of the fridge.....

I have that fridge and not only is it energy efficient, unlike most residential fridges it works from below freezing to over 110 degrees. We boondock regularly with it. 
 

I didn’t. I bought sheet aluminum from Lowe’s, cut it to size and screwed it over the hole. Then I sealed it with dicor

I use a king Omni pro and am very satisfied with its performance. I get 44 channels in my driveway, the farthest 60 miles away. 

That’s not what I pictured when I thought about cracks in the roof. I think I’d use a fiberglass kit to fix that instead of Dicor and eternabond. 

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Curious what happened to your hoses? I thought HWH did not have problematic hoses? Thanks.

After 20 years, they started leaking at the fittings, It was only a couple, but since I had everything apart I replaced all of them.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/2000-monaco-dynasty-slide-room-cylinder-rebuild-and-hose-replacement-547651.html

You need at least one of the hydraulic cylinders rebuilt, probably all three. I went through this a few years ago and had all three cylinders, both ends and the sync cylinder rebuilt, then replaced all the hydraulic hoses. All the parts are available from HWH.

https://server51.hwhcorp.com/?page_id=510

I don't know what you're talking about. Can you post pics?  I don't have any cracks on my 2000.

Yeah, that's the one I thought  you were looking for. My 2000 is different than your '99. I made a simplified fuse diagram, but the layout of my front run bay is different than the photo above.

are you looking for the one that shows the components in that run bay, more like a map than a schematic?

9 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Did you happen to fill up with fuel just before stopping at your destination? Check for water in fuel perhaps. 

That wouldn't affect the instrument panel. His symptoms point to an electrical problem.

22 hours ago, JOHN McCLURE said:

Shore power does not charge chassis batteries. Several times I have recommended to my RV friends to get a separate , inexpensive charger and keep it dedicated to the chassis batteries. I installed a separate 110 outlet for this purpose. 

Some coaches charge the chassis batteries on shore power. My 2000 Dynasty does. 

I believe anything short of installing a residential fridge is just delaying the inevitable and adds to the cost. Just do a web search and you’ll see myriad problems with all the alternatives to extend the life of the Norcold. 

I attached 1” foam board to the back of that vent cover when I installed our residential fridge. It’s a Frigidaire and works from 20 to 110 degrees according to the manual. 

Two years ago we were without power for 3 days during a snow storm with temps near zero. We ran the generator and heater three straight days. We have a small propane tank so we kept the thermostat set in 60 and used an electric space heater to keep it warm. I don’t think the space heater could have warmed the coach by itself. The fuel gauge barely moved, but we used a quarter of a tank of propane. 

I replaced my slide topper and couldn’t find one that covered the rolled up topper when the slide is retracted.