Jump to content

dennis.mcdonaugh

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    145

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by dennis.mcdonaugh

    Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    39 minutes ago, Kenster said:

    Call me stupid. Are you saying the three cylinders that go down and touch the ground are air operated?

    No. Those are hydraulic.

    10 minutes ago, Kenster said:

    What legs should be airtight are you referring to?

    The three legs of the air suspension from the ride height valve through the air bags to the air dump valve solenoid. One in the front, one for the left and one for the right rear. 

    Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    Okay, there seems to be some confusion about my question. My coach has an air suspension. It’s only used when going down the road. When parked, I dump the air and use the hydraulic jacks to level the coach. There is nothing wrong with the hydraulic system.

    The ride height system on this coach is much simpler than those that use air to level the coach when parked. It consists of three legs, one in front which controls the front ride height, and two in back controlling the left and right side ride height. Each is controlled by a Hadley ride height valve.

    Those legs should be air tight from the valve through the air bags to the dump valve. The front and road side are, but the curb side leaks. There are not a lot of parts in the system, ride height valve, a few fittings, two air bags and dump solenoid and valve  

    It’s not the valve or valve fittings, dump valve, air bag fittings or the Tee that splits the air line to both bags. One air bag is about 6 years old, the other is original.

    Its been raining a lot here so I haven’t had much time to explore further  I have another new air bag, I may just replace the second one on that side if I can’t find a leak  

     

    Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    I know, but thanks for the reminder. I have jack stands, but they are too short to reach the frame when the coach is up on the 2X ramps I use to get a little extra height. I made wooden blocks out of stacked 2X12s, cut to 1' long, that are just shorter than the retracted hydraulic jack pads. I often dump the air bags so the coach is sitting on these blocks.   There's plenty of room to work under the without worrying about it falling on me.

    Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted · Edited by dennis.mcdonaugh

    Then the rear passenger side slowly loses air after being parked. Its not noticeable the first day, but by day three the lean is fully evident. The air bleeds out of the main system after about 48 hours (dash gauge reads zero), but the front and rear road side air bags maintain pressure. I assume those legs are air tight from the valve to the air bags and those dump valves aren't leaking. 

    I've just lived with it as it such a slow leak, but yesterday I decided to tackle it and got nowhere. I sprayed the ride height valve and the fittings on the air bag and that didn't produce any bubbles. Neither did spraying the dump valve for that leg of the system. I've replaced a lot of pressure protection valves over the years and they bubble up like crazy when there's a leak so I don't think I have an external leak at the valve, air bag or dump valve. I wonder if its possible the leak is actually in the valve itself and I'm losing air back into the empty supply system?  I suppose I could have a leak in an air line, but finding that would be impossible given they are all wrapped in plastic conduit, I'd have to replace all the lines and that'd be a chore I'd rather not tackle on the off chance that's the issue.

     

    AC Recharge

    in AC, Heating, and Cooling

    Posted · Edited by dennis.mcdonaugh

    My dash AC hasn’t worked for 8 years. I just run the generator and house AC. The dash AC, when it did work, blew plenty of cold air, but didn’t do a whole lot to cool the coach when temps got above 70 degrees. 
     

    When we were looking at buying a coach, we didn’t understand why we kept seeing curtain rods behind the front seats. They were an attempt to keep that small amount of cold air coming out of the dash AC in the front of the coach. 

    Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight

    in Body, Awning, Roof, Slides, & Steps

    Posted

    The HWH system is easy to work on. There are three cylinders, a sync cylinder and two rams. Going in or out crooked is a symptom of air in one of the lines or cylinders. Since it’s a closed system it usually means you have a leak. If they put a significant amount of fluid into the system, you probably have a leak. 
     

    A small leak usually isn’t noticeable at first, but eventually enough fluid comes out it’ll drip onto something in the basement and become visible. 
     

    The rams usually leak into the roadside compartments. Open the slide and look into the boxed tubes that move in and out with the slide. You may see fluid there. 
     

    The sync cylinder is hard to find, but it’ll be in the top of the basement, mine was evenly split between the propane and fuel tank compartment, right next to the wall. 

    HWH has a lot of potential bro on line. 

    Thoughts on a 2013 Ford F 150 Platinum Ecoboost

    in Toads

    Posted

    16 hours ago, Mike H said:

    I've towed both a 2012 and now a 2019 both with the Eco boost engine BUT they HAVE to be 4x4's.  After 2019 or 2020 they started doing some funky things with the towing set up procedure.  Setting it up to be towed disconnects everything so no milage is recorded.

    My 2017 doesn’t record mileage when towed. 

    Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp

    in AC, Heating, and Cooling

    Posted

    3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

    Multizone is how the AC's are wired with an AC usually representing one zone.  I have two AC so 2 zones, in my case the bedroom is zone 1 and the LR is zone 2.  My furnace shows up under Zone 2.  

    My Dynasty doesn’t  have two zones, the ACs operate independently of each other and the furnace is controlled by the front AC t-stat. Made it real simple to change out the ACs. 

    Maintenance on Rooftop AC's

    in AC, Heating, and Cooling

    Posted

    On 4/16/2024 at 8:33 AM, Jdw12345 said:

    Isn’t there a kit you can purchase with a gasket and drain cups to use the original drain line to the ground?

    Yes. I am installed them when I replaced both my 20+ year old units. I still have a used set in case I need to replace one. 

    Coolant Leak in Cummins ISC

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    It looks like I didn't screw anything up and the leak is gone. I'm going to keep the old one and rebuild it in case the new one leaks down the road. Its unlikely I'll be the owner when that happens since it took 24 years for the original to fail, but you never know. Do you remove the shaft and o-rings by taking off the knob with the philips screw in it?

    • Like 1

    Pneumatic Grease Gun

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    I lubed the chassis with the DeWalt cordless grease gun this morning and what a different experience that is. I wish I'd bought one years ago when I went with a pneumatic gun instead instead. I was a little worried a couple of times when it took longer than I thought it should to get a couple fittings lubed, but eventually they I got them all done. Thanks for the suggestion! 

    • Like 1

    2007 Dynasty. 10 Kw Generator shuts off and has various intermittent issues. All help appreciated. Thanks.

    in General Motorhome Discussion

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Rule of Thumb…..here for at least 15 years.

    If you have only 676 hours and coolant has been changed and looks fine…..Drive (Generate) ON.  Many of our more experienced members have close to 1,000 and are confident.

    BUT…..for the 7.5/8.0 KW……buy and carry the following…

    Thermostat & Thermostat housing gasket

    Drive Belt

    Temperature Sensor

    Spare Oil and Air Filter.

    MANY folks, with good PM practices, as they approach 1000 hours will install all three….but that seems to be a “lets stop and reconsider” issue….lately 

    Now…if you have the 10/12.5 KW….I’d do some reading or call Onan.  They have brushes….and there may be a few other parts….so, while you totally take things apart…some minor items might be replaced….I’m not that well versed on the innards of them.

    NOW….for ALL 10/12.5 KW owners.  2 or 3 times per year….it is a MUST DO to start and run your genny.  You need around half a load….2 HP/AC’s work well….run that for at least 30 minutes.  That “cleans” the brushes.  If not, you will have regulation issues such as Voltage and Frequency.  
     

    This has been published countless times, but we have several new members….this is NOT necessary on the 7.5/8.0 units….NO BRUSHES….LOL….  DO IT FAITHFULLY.  But if you drive with the genny on and AC’s running or dry camp…..not needed….just if you store it for long periods.

    To climb on this band wagon…..ALL MH owners ought to drive with Genny ON every quarter.  My routine….genny on…both rooftops in AC mode and set way low.  Drive until the Tranny’s temp is the same as the engine.  Turn around.  Switch to Heat Pump.  Drive home…. Start the diesel burner on your AquaHot or turn on the furnace and let it run for say 15 minutes…..

    The above times are “relative”.  If you drive far enough to get the tranny to engine temp….it will be fine….and exercised on the return leg.

    I've got 1400 hours on my 7500 and have replaced the T-stat and temp sensor. The temp sensor actually failed about 7-8 years ago. I have thought about changing the belt, but don't see them go out often so have been putting it off. I probably need to do it for peace of mind. I carry an oil, air and fuel filter with me at all times "Just in case".

×
×
  • Create New...