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2003 Camelot Electrical Diagrams

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14 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Great comments….my summary and thoughts…and also a comment or two since there have been a Whole LOT of posts and ingenious folks over the years.

First.  Original Windsors, and presumably, the Dynasty, had a Dual IN, Dual OUT setup.  That provides a Sub-panel where the GFCI(s) were..  The issue of the original Norcold or a Res Refer plagued a lot ot folks.  Many just said “OK….forget NEC….I’m removing the blankety blank GFCI “ .including one of our esteemed founders and a superb Engineer.  We Moderators will label or edit posts where that is a recommendation as it violates electrical safety and common sense.

Second ….there were probably creativity awards for “let’s see how confusing or how UNINFORMATIVE” we can make this model’s prints.  I can hang with most of them.  The Camelot, maybe because I have used them, is the simplest.  In case one has never delved into “How do I find and figure out a circuit” on a later Dynasty, it takes a mind with more “power” than mine….and we have folks here so gifted.  The lack of a line print…where you go to an index….look up the “gee what is this” item….then get a print number.  Then find, in the Harness section, the harness(s) and then look at both a male and female drawing and select the pin(s) you need…then imagine how they are connected and do a mental “picture” and then start to troubleshoot…using up to 3 prints…and NOT on a single print gives me a headache… BUT, there are many Dynasty prints that I can now locate and use….some of the earlier lower ends had a “cross” of both.  

FWIW.  There was, I was, told by “JIM” the elder tech support,  that there was a huge rivalry or perhaps “lack of communication” and each thought that their electrical group was superior.  NO “CONSOLIDATED” engineering organization….so each group had total control and the electrical…which was a big issue and fights had almost broken out at the water cooler.  Maybe a bit of embellishment, but NO CENTRAL or common format.

Third.  HOW the OP finally does it?  Ideally, the simple (to me…feel free to flame….nicely…LOL). Install a J-Box upstream of the inverter.  Split the feed there.  Use split bolt connectors properly insulated per NEC (there is a method outlined many places).  Run one 30A feed to the Inverter….so, it works as before.  Run the second or a parallel feed to either a J-Box…or if really OCD, a subpanel with a 20 A single breaker.  Then pull the Microwave or “Line 2” out of the inverter and attach there.  Same power usage.  No real change to diversity of the Inverter’s circuits..  then, YES, one has to have Genny or have AC power to the main for the microwave to work.  I would, as I did, put a 15 A cube surge suppressor on the outlet above the microwave where it is plugged in.

All here, seem to be  cognizant of the issues with GCFI and defrost coils or icemaker heaters….so, while tracing circuits, determine the best way to get a “LINE” not a “LOAD” direct feed to the Icemaker outlet and NOT through a GFCI.

i have 2003 Camelot looking for electrical diagrams as well as plumbing. would like to convert over to solar and my inverter does not allow for solar, recommendations for 3000 to 4000 watt unit. also residential fridge, update microwave and switch to induction cook top.

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7 hours ago, djlgnd said:

i have 2003 Camelot looking for electrical diagrams as well as plumbing. would like to convert over to solar and my inverter does not allow for solar, recommendations for 3000 to 4000 watt unit. also residential fridge, update microwave and switch to induction cook top.

Technically, and you may know this, your existing inverter is a standalone. It doesn’t have any limitations and if you could install 3600 watts (OK…this is fact…..but not feasible) and maybe COULD eliminate your inverter.  The BATTERIES get charged by either the INVERTER or the SOLAR.  You have a 2000 Watt Inverter.  That is based on the circuitry to INVERT 2000 watts of power.  Inside the control board, is an Automatic Transfer Switch.  This ATS is rated at 3600 watts (30 Amp breaker X 120 VAC). So, when you are on shore power, and you have a “battery” that reads above 11.4 VAC and takes a trickle amount of charging current….maybe less than 10 amps, the “Control Board” says….OK…I see a battery.  I see 120 VAC on the incoming.  OK….ATS ….stay in the NORMAL CLOSED mode….let through a full 30 amps of power to the Line 1 and Line 2 circuits.  One is Microwave and the other is all internal outlets.  BUT….when there is NO 120 VAC, the ATS “swaps” and then the ATS on the Control board starts to Inverter….but it only can do 2000 Watts.  I don’t think anyone, could be wrong, has ever installed more than say 1500 watts of solar….not enough room and if you wallpapered the top, without an access walkway, then, you would need a “cherry picker” to ever remove an HVAC unit.

NOW….search is your friend.  Use WIRING in the search box.  Click on Everywhere.  Choose FILES.  There are drawings for your rig.  The  Camelot and Scepter were all the SAME.  2003 was a funky year….I’d pull the 2004 Camelot.  IF you have a main panel and a Sub Panel (120 vac Breakers in both), you have a “Winsdsor” wired MH but not a Windsor body….I can’t find a 2003 manual online.  If you have NO Subpanel and there is a single GFCI somewhere….probably lavatory, you have the equivalent of a 2006 Windsor, Camelot, Scepter.  The Dual In Dual out vs Single In Dual out is the real or only main AC distribution difference.

Bottom line, you can add whatever solar you want.  The batteries get charged by the Inverter Charger and/or Solar.  Then the Inverter delivers power based on the amp hour capacity or if being recharged via auxiliary solar, the sustained capacity.  The limiting factor is that 4 batteries, like you have, can typically deliver 2000 watts which is a function of the Inverter's circuits .  Adding MORE solar, almost, I thought, a physical impossibility, does not increase the output….only sustains it.

NOW…if you really want to be as “SOLAR” as possible…..then Lithiums are being used.  Lithiums will not fare well with your vintage charger.  We have a LOT of smart folks and use the search like this.  Solar. Or Solar Lithium in the box and then chose TOPICS.  That will give you a weeks worth of reading from the experts…

There MAY also be some info in the files….so repeat, but select FILES.

I kept this very elementary as we never know a poster or member’s level of electrical understanding.  The “why do I have no power” when plugged into shore and all breakers are on….and there ain’t no outlet breakers” is the number one quandary for most folks that have never owned a Class A RV….so, please do NOT interpret my “education” as a put down.  Many will read it and some, as they have, and  PM’d me, say WOW.  THANKS….NOW I understand….

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thank you tom, this is extremely help full, i am a second year electrician apprentice here in Canada. Just learning about motorhome electricals as they are on a different level.

Thank you

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