2008 Cayman Refrigerator and maybe GFCI issues. Help appreciated

[Jlalpaugh]

On 12/12/2023 at 4:04 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Some GOOD tips.  Here are the drawings for the 2009 Knight.  ODDS ARE...yours will be close as Monaco did a lot of upgrades in 2008.  I also printed out of the entire file, the 120 Electrical Layout.  LOOK AT IT.  Here is the way I would do it...similar to others, but maybe a bit easier and more logical and it will home in on things...

FIRST, I assume that you have a VOM.  I also assume that you are OK with installing a new receptacle or replacing a GFCI.  SO....here goes.

• Unplug, as suggested, the front Entertainment items.  That includes the "DASH" outlet.  I do NOT think that is the issue, but simple to do...if you are using a power strip, unplug it.  NOTHING in those 4 outlets.
• Find the PASS VAN outlet, whatever it is.  
• UNPLUG THE ICEMAKER.  ODDS ARE....this is it.  The Heater Coils in the icemaker mold, plus the coils inside for defrosting can have a minute (NON LETHAL) leak and that leak wreaks havoc with GFCI's.  This is the FIRST THING that usually we check...  SO DO THAT.  
• NO JOY....then FIND the three outlets off 1A JNC Box and the two off 2(B) JNC Box....unplug all them.  IF THAT DOESN'T WORK...
• Purchase or order a NEW GFCI.  Your's is way past due for replacement.  My 2009 died in 2013.  ONLY purchase a 20 AMP GFCI make by Eaton Wiring Devices, Leviton or Hubbell.  These are the ONLY ones recommended for use with the Inverter.  BE ALERT.  The wiring on the back of the GFCI may (HAS?) Changed.  Read the back (molded in) labels.  You have TWO LOAD circuits and ONE LINE.  The LINE is the incoming power.  The LOAD is the two circuits.  Rewire the NEW GFCI correctly. DO NOT use an offbrand or a Lowes' Utilitacky one....you will be sorry.
• IF that doesn't fix it...then there is an outlet with a short in it or there is a chafed wire.  It gets TRICKY past this.  BUT, you can chase it down...
• You will have to ISOLATE the LOADS.  Simple...you TEMPORARILY (GFCI TRIPPED AND OFF) connect one of the LOAD CABLES to the LINE.  THEN see what works.  That will be the either the FRONT TV HEC or the Icemaker OUTLET.  THEN leave off that LOAD.  SAME ISSUE...then pull the other LOAD OFF.
• FINALLY, you locate 1A JNC Box and disconnect the incoming power...and then go from there.

UNFORTUNATELY, Monaco's stupidity prevails.  MANY of us have the ICEMAKER CIRCUIT on the TV's...so we just move that LOAD Cable to LINE.  That then removes the GFCI from the PROTECTED circuit and all is well.  Literally have coached or helped 50 or so members make that change.

BUT, you MIGHT just have an OLD GFCI....so replacing will fix it.  BUT, if the Norcold's ICEMAKER is bad...then you have to live without an icemaker or you run a 16 gauge extension cord, somehow from say the Inverter OUTPUT to 2A JNC Box....and that puts it on the Microwave.  The Microwave will not pull enough juice to be an issue with the small wattage of the ICEMAKER.

If Monaco had put the ICEMAKER cable in the LOAD to the FRONT TV...you could have moved that cable from LOAD to LINE and all would have been great.

That's it.  A little work, but a LOT easier than scratching your head and doing backwards flips.

 

903403772_2009KnightWiringDiagrams-rev1.pdf 25.42 MB · 5 downloads 2009 KNIGHT ELECTRICAL - 120 VAC.pdf 236.34 kB · 8 downloads

MODERATOR EDIT

This post or new issues was split into a NEW topic

END of EDIT

I have a similar issue but not exactly the same. My fridge will only work if I am running on shore power (or generator). As soon as I remove shore power the fridge beeps and there is no AC to it. If I plug it into the outlet where the ice maker is plugged in then it works fine. 

The GFCI does not trip but all the outlets on that circuit lose power, just like the fridge. 

( have a related issue where only the freezer gets cold if it runs on LP. )

[waterskier_1]

7 hours ago, Jlalpaugh said:

I have a similar issue but not exactly the same. My fridge will only work if I am running on shore power (or generator). As soon as I remove shore power the fridge beeps and there is no AC to it. If I plug it into the outlet where the ice maker is plugged in then it works fine. 

The GFCI does not trip but all the outlets on that circuit lose power, just like the fridge. 

( have a related issue where only the freezer gets cold if it runs on LP. )

FIXED.  Thanks for catching this, now a new topic.

You really should start a new thread (post) when changing the subject and not what some call "Hi-Jack" another's post.  It will also provide greater visibility to other readers who might not be monitoring this old post.

That said, the coach is wired such that when you unplug from shore power or gen, one of the outlets no longer is powered.  This is done for two reasons.  First, the original absorption refrigerator was designed such that when the AC power to it was interrupted, it would automatically (if set) switch to propane and keep the contents cold.  The outlet that does have power when on the inverter was put there so the ice maker function would continue when on propane.  Second, the power consumed by the refrigerators AC Heater used when on AC power is quite considerable, and would be more than most would want drawing down their batteries, when propane could have been used.  

Now, you say that when you remove the shore power, your refrigerator beeps, it sounds like (not knowing the brand or model number of the actual refrigerator) that it is warning you that there is no AC because you have not selected "Auto" or similar for the refrigerator to switch automatically to propane.  You say the GFCI does not trip, so lets not muddy the water by bringing that up (another reason for starting a new post).   

I'm not sure I understand you comment about all the outlets loosing power, just like the fridge, when you previously stated that if you moved the plug to where the ice maker is, it works, so clearly that outlet didn't loose power.  Monaco generally put the refrigerator (main power - not including the ice maker) on it's own circuit breaker.  There are likely other outlets (but not all) that do not get power when on the inverter so will not have power when the shore power is removed.

  -Rick N.

Casa Grande, AZ