waterskier_1

If you need two AC outputs, then this will not work (without rewiring the coach). The model you needed is 81-2020-12. I can't determine that the remotes or wiring are interchangeable. - Rick N

What manufacturer hydraulic jack system do you have. - Rick N

I didn't see where you connected the positive probe in the pictures. It would be interesting to purees on the same place with a small screwdriver. I'm wondering is where you are applying pressure is has a bad or dirty connection, and the pressure is making better contact? - Rick N Tucson, AZ

I also wonder if the "Big Boy" solenoid (relay) contacts may have "welded" themselves together? You might be able to check this with the engine off, shore power disconnected, solar (if anydisconnected. This should ensure that there are no charging sources to energize the Big Boy fits the BIRD system. In this case, check the voltage on each side of the Big Boy to ground, they will likely be different I'd the contacts are open. It is unlikely that both banks would be at the same voltage. Also remember that the Big Boy I'd energized by the Battery Boost switch on the dash too. - Rick N Tucson, AZ

From the RV-30 manual Note this is not a smart charge controller. The engine output voltage is fixed at 13.4 VDC (around Float voltage) and the House is user adjustable, by Dip Switches, to a fixed voltage between 13.2 to 14.6 VDC. Note that on Solar controllers, the current rating it typically the OUTPUT Current, and the Power being delivered is the Output Current multiplied by the Charge Voltage (not just the nominal 12 volts) which would be the voltage you choose between 13.2 and 14.6 Volts. Note that with PWM, it just switches On/Off the input voltage to maintain the set charge voltage. So, anything more than the charge voltage put the device overhead (typically 3 - 5 volts) is just thrown away. That is the beauty of MPPT controllers, they can use what would have been excess voltage, and provide additional charge current. Let me know if I can answer any other questions. -Rick N. Tucson, AZ

Doubtful that REV, who bought Monaco, will have any data that old. Even if they did, that original paint color would not match your 23 year old faded paint. It is best to get it computer scanned to match the existing color. Often you can just remove the refrigerator cover ant take that in for scanning. - Rick N Tucson, AZ

If you remove the wires from the ignition switch, and then manually connect (touch in the case of START) and then disconnect them manually, and the engine still runs, it would eliminate the ignition switch as a cause. Next, I would temporarily disconnect all the small wires from the alternator (yes it won't work in this configuration) and test again. If it is a problem in the alternator or is wiring keeping the IGNITION circuit hot, it would only be hot when the alternator is producing electricity. If it is in the Ignition Switch & that wiring, then it would be hot even when the engine is not running (no power from the alternator). - Rick N Tucson, AZ

As Tom mentioned, feedback can cause this. I see it most often when an alternator is replaced with the incorrect one, or wired incorrectly. Has any wiring been recently done. - Rick N Casa Grande, AZ

As Jim posted, the A/C Compressor belt is tensioned by the compressor mounting. The idler pulls is for the alternator and likely the water pump/fan. - Rick N

Yes, at least on Dynasty & Executive. Each headlight is on a self-resetting circuit breaker. They are located in the Front Run Bay. - Rick N Casa Grande, AZ

According to your Owners Manual, the A/C belt is a Dayco 15465 and the Alternator Belt is a Dayco 3911581. This would imply you have two belts, one likely just for the A/C and the second for the alternator and water pump. If this is the case, I doubt it was the A/C compressor that froze up, unless that belt also broke and took out the alternator belt. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

I can't speak to the brand of the pumps, but I believe all Monaco Dynasty and up (Exec & Sig) came with accumulator tanks since the 1990's. I know my '97 Dynasty had one, as does my 05 Exec. I have not looked to see what brand pump I have - the Previous Owner replaced it in 2018, just before I bought it along with a lot of other items (new A/C and 10-button thermostats, new 600D Aquahot, new inverter and 1000 Watts Solar, Amish cooling core, Samsung microwave, all LED lighting inside, dash radio/monitor, GPS). I know several other with Dynasty's or Exec's and all have accumulator (sometimes called "pressure" or "expansion") tanks. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

Doug, I have no doubt, but I'm not sure if it is or how to adjust those set points. The pumps I've used in the past didn't have adjustment, but did have rebuild kits. I'll see if it is just a bad connector - if so, and I can repair without removing the tank itself, that's what I'll do.

Doug, I had a leak on my pressure tank when I showed up to dry camp at Quartzsite. I think it is the plastic connection into the tank, but I'm not sure. I cut the line to the tank (it's the only line out of the water pump that doesn't go to the manifold) and capped it. Be prepared (I wasn't) for a couple gallons of water to flow back out of the tank. I can't easily get to mine, it's above the Aquahot valves. I'm not sure if that was the original way it was installed, or if when the original Aquahot was replaced by the 600D things changed. A new one is around $60 at home depot or lowes, and I plan on replacing mine when I get back home. To answer your question, when I'm not running the water full on, instead of the water coming from the expansion tank until pressure decreased to a certain point, and the pump cycling on to recharge, the pump short-cycles every couple seconds, depending on the flow. Washing my hands the pump may cycle 30 times for a couple seconds each time. I don't think that's good on the pump, even if the total pump time were the same - I'm not sure that is true either. I have read that some of the newer pumps are variable speed, and can compensate for no accumulator tank, but mine is not one of those. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

That information pertains to Richard W, and his 2006, Monaco Cayman. He is the one who originally started this thread. I was not responding to your questions which may have been different. This is the problem when people post different questions or have different year/model coaches from that which is the original poster (OP), To ensure this doesn't happen, and cause potential confusion to all readers, you should start a new posting with your specific info (question, year, model of coach). This will also enable future searches for the problem/concern you have, which won't show up when interjected into a post of of a different problem/concern/year/model.

Yes it does. FIY, here is what the OP asked in Post #1 He didn't asks about moving the slides with the engine running, or driving with the jacks down, only if he should be able to start the engine when parked, with the slide outs out. I think we should be careful not to confuse the issue, especially with inexperienced (based upon his original question) with information overload. -Rick N.

Tom, you do not have to "get the slides in to start the engine". As I mentioned above, you can and must start the engine with the slides out, to air up to coach BEFORE moving the slides. Let not get in the weeds as to interlocks and such, or if you can drive the coach with the slides out. As a last resort, he should RTFM, which clearly describes who the extend and retract the slides on pages 127 - 129. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ All coaches I have owned or worked on with the RVA Jacks can be started with the Jack Down. I do it all the time at my house, to air up the coach to extend the slide, or to air up the coach to retract the slides, and then dump the air and I'm back to level on the jacks. There is no interlock preventing the coach from being started. Now, I must admit, I have never tried to drive the coach off with the jacks are down. There are alarms that I pay attention to, and don't shut off until the jacks are retracted. When the jacks are down, they are bonging when I start the engine, and the whole time I'm airing up the coach. just as they should. I think there may confusion between the OP question of STARTING the coach, versus some people "reading" DRIVING the coach, which I have done for short distances to get a satellite view for my Dish in tree shaded spots. I don't recommend or advocate driving it, but there is nothing in the Pre-MultiPlex coaches (2005 or older) that prohibits putting it in gear (both forward and reverse) with the slides out. Now, I don't *think* I can move the slides with the engine running, but I have never tried since the manual says not to. I have also not jumped out of an airplane to confirm "terminal velocity". -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

Yes, you must start it to raise it to Travel Mode BEFORE you retract the slides. Some hydraulic Jacks retract when the ignition switch is turned on, most don't. I've found that some that did were not supposed to, and the culprit was the Nasson Switch under the Park Brake which would inadvertently signal that the parking brake was no longer engaged, and the jack would raise. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

There have been many comments, many misleading by well intentioned people. I didn't read all of them because I got frustrated with what I was reading. To answer your immediate question, the Battery Boost switch has nothing to do with your inverter. Just make sure if you do use a Victron to get the MultiPlus II, which has dual input, dual output. Now on to some other things you might wish to consider (some may have been already answered in the previous 4 pages). The Battery Boost switch energizes the Isolator Relay which some refer to as the "Big Boy". The purpose of this large Relay (some call it a solenoid) is to directly connect the Chassis Batteries and the House Batteries together. This can be energized by the dash mounted Battery Boost Switch or This can also be energized by the BIRD (Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay) circuit. This circuit analyzes the voltage of both battery banks, and when either bank is over a pre-programmed value (around 13.5 volts) it the circuit will send an appropriate signal to energize the "Big Boy". There is a Delay in sending this signal originally to allow the engine to come up to speed and thing to settle down (it was part of the original IRD, with was only an Isolator Relay Delay that only allowed the chassis battery charging (i.e., the main engine alternator) to energize the "Big Boy". It was not Bi-Directional. Tom has stated that this circuitry is new for the multiplex system, and he may be right, I have never found a need to dive into the circuitry, since I recommend disconnecting it when you go to Lithium Batteries. If you are not changing to Lithium, this is all a moot point - you would leave all as it was originally installed. The rationale for disconnecting the BIRD is that it is only a dumb alternator output, which will try and maintain 14.2 - 14.4 volts all the time. It has no provisions for determining any battery State Of Charge (SOC), much less the SOC of the House Batteries. If you are like many, and leave your campsite where you had shore power, your House Batteries are likely fully charged. It is not good for any battery to be held at 14.4 volts for hours on end as you drive to the next destination. This is true of Lead Acid (Flooded or AGM) but much more critical with Lithium batteries. I isolate Chassis and the House systems when I first got my coach, and it had relatively new AGM House Batteries. This has not been a problem for me since I also have 1400 Watts of solar on the roof, with the original 100 Watt panel dedicated specifically to the Chassis Batteries, and the rest to the House Batteries, so I'm charging, if necessary, by solar as I drive. If it were too cloudy, or I didn't start with charged House Batteries, I could start the generator while driving and use the Inverter/Battery Charger to recharge the House Batteries. While I have designed a circuit that allows me to engage the "Big Boy" with the Battery Boost switch while the BIRD is disconnected, I don't recommend doing so. The rationale here is that the Lithium batteries found in most coaches will not shut down (not good, but not damaging) when you try to pull too much current. Many are using two 100 A-Hr Lithium batteries, and many of those with cheaper BMS (Battery Management System) will only allow 0.5 C (meaning 50% of the battery capacity rating - 100 A-Hrs in this case) or 50 Amps in this case to be charged or discharged before they shut down (if this BMS didn't control this, the batteries would be destroyed). Obviously two 50 Amp battery sources (100 Amps total) is not going to start a diesel engine, while at the same time recharging the Chassis batteries, which occurs as soon as the two banks are connected. You would have to have over 750 A-Hr capacity, with newer higher end BMS that allow for 1.0C (100%) of their capacity to be drawn, and that might not be enough. My recommendation is to use your or someone else's toad to just the chassis battery, or, if you have time, connect an external battery charger or charge the chassis batteries. My recommendation for systems I design is unless you know you have a need to supplement the house batteries while driving, to wait on the DC-DC Charger. It can quite easily be added later, and is independent of the rest of the systems, as far as interfacing is concerned. Also, be aware that the Victron system don't have an AGS (Automatic Generator Start) that works directly with our Onan generators. I have designed and recently installed 3 systems that will interface between the two. Note that you'll need new remote monitoring, a Smart Shunt, or what I recommend, a Battery Monitor (which has a smart shunt plus additional functionality built-in). I am NOT a fan of monitoring via Bluetooth only, but that is the direction that all four Solar Installers in Quartzsite are pushing. It's cheaper, not just in electronics, you use your existing phone or tablet, but also in installation - there are no wires to run to a remote reading monitor. Just another thing to think about. If you have other questions, please let me know. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

Tom, I think I've figured out the confusion regarding the 2005 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams (With an Intellitec House Lighting System) 1.0.0 located in the group files. I'm not sure why the Cover Page shows 2005, but if you look at all the drawings that had changed from what you are calling the "early" or "previous" 2005 Dynasty, under the DESCRIPTION box, you will see the comment "RELEASE FOR 2006 MODEL YEAR". These are, in fact, Model Year 2006 Dynasty (and in come cases other models) drawings. They are NOT for model year 2005 Dynasty. I don't know when a "model year" changed for Monaco, but that is really immaterial. Whether the 2006 Dynasty came out in 2005 or 2006 calendar years doesn't make any difference to which set of drawings should be used. I would suggest these drawings be annotated as having an incorrect Title Page and are indeed 2006 Dynasty drawings. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

There is a lot more going on than what I posted. First, the we need to understand that the Inverter/Charger only knows the power that is connected to it. Since we have many other things that are not connected to the Inverter (i.e., Air Conditioners, Water Heaters, AquaHot, Absorption Refrigerators, Block Heaters, etc.) the inverter can't manage those loads. When I wrote the above post, I was speaking only to what the inverter knows. That why I specifically stated "OUTLETS" when describing power loads, and never mentioned A/C loads. The manual states this: Note it says it will "back off the battery charger to reduce ... " It does not shut is down, unless those loads exceed SHORE Max setting. It's not a OFF/ON bi-state device. If we consider an "active" coach (vs one is storage, for example), then we also need to recognize that the SHORE Max setting doesn't see things like A/C's. It doesn't matter that you set the SHORE Max to 20 Amps, and then try to run the A/Cs along with other outlet loads (i.e., the microwave) on the inverter, you'll likely trip the Shore Power breaker if you are connected to 20 Amps. The inverter can only see what runs through it. It can't (and won't) adjust the battery charger when the A/Cs come on. This also doesn't take into account the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding circuitry that some of the coaches have. That works based upon (as far as I know) only sensing 50 Amp input, or not. The "not" could be 30 Amp, 20 Amp or even 15 Amp shore power. The Intellitec EMS only know 50 Amp Shore (or Gen) input or "Not". As you can see, the SHORE Max setting does little if you are operating several other AC loads that the inverter can't "see", such as A/C's. Our coaches require a certain amount of Power Load awareness on our part. I'm not sure why the battery charger would perform any differently when on shore power vs generator, with the same SHORE Max setting, and the same loads on the inverter. The Inverter can not know what the actual shore power capability is, and change based upon changes in the shore power capability. If it could, there would be no need to have a SHORE Max setting - it would know it already. -Rick N.

Corrected my typo. I think we are in agreement.

There appears to be some confusion on the SHORE setting. All this setting does is change how the battery charger operates. The inverter continuously monitors the AC power going to the Loads (what you have plugged into the outlets and turned on) and the AC power going to the battery charger. So, for example, if your batteries are needing to be charged, and you set SHORE to 20 Amps, if nothing else is consuming power (nothing plugged into outlets is turned on) then the inverter circuitry will allow max charging (around 10 - 12 Amps input to the charger to get 90-110 Amp battery current). But as soon as you turn on something pulled into an outlet, the inverter circuitry will automatically subtract that current from the SHORE setting, and the result will be allowed to go to the battery charger. So, in this example, if we start the microwave, which might take 15 Amps, that amount will be subtracted from the 20 Amp SHORE setting, and only 5 Amps will be allocated to the battery charger (around 45 Amps battery charge current). All this is independent of what the actual coach shore power is capable of ( as long as it is over 20 Amps). If the shore power is only 15 Amps, for example, and we try to use the microwave (15 Amp load) and the inverter is set to SHORE 20, then it will attempt to allow 5 Amps to the battery charger. But that will exceed the shore power capability and something will trip (likely the shore power circuit breaker). Now the Charge Rate setting does limit the amount of charge to the batteries, it is not designed to be used when you have a low (i.e., 20 Amp or 15 Amp) shore power connection. Yes, it can be used for that, just like a brake can be used to keep a car from going too fast, but it is better to let off the accelerator pedal. The main purpose of this setting to limit the battery charger, regardless of the shore power availability. One reason you may want to do this is because your batteries can not accept the full battery charger current (for example, you have only a single LiFePO4 battery rated at 100 A-Hrs and a rating of max charge/discharge of 50 Amps). The charger may be able to supply 100 Amps, but that would overload the batteries, and the internal BMS would shut down all charging. Another reason you might use this parameter is if the ambient temps are really high, and the air flow is poor. You don't want the battery charger to overheat and shut down. I personally recommend setting it at no more than 90% - 95% for this reason. You'll not likely notice the difference in charge time, but the charger will run cooler. Note that the Charge Rate setting is completely independent of the shore power. Hope this helps understand the difference between these two parameter and the correct usage of each. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ Yes, if you have turned OFF the battery charger. He is the description from your manual (assuming you have a Magnum Inverter/Charger). -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

It's reading the voltage of your engine alternator. Yes, it's normal. - Rick N Casa Grande, AZ

Tom, I have a PDF file of the Wiring Diagrams that was sent to me by Dave Pratt. I am traveling right now and don't have the bandwidth to upload the 130 MB file. I'll be home in a few months, and can send it off then. I have the original printed copy of the Wiring Diagrams also. But they are not as complete as I would like. They don't cover the Detroit Diesel interface module, but again Dave Pratt was able to send me a wiring diagram that helped. I don't think Monaco was complete in their distribution of the files. A 2005 Dynasty with the Multiplex system is news to me. I did through (I thought) research and what I found was that they brought out the Multiplex system for only the Sig in 2005, then the Dynasty and Exec got it in 2006. I wonder if the files are mislabeled? And then there is always the question of when a model year begins and ends. If you need the PDF soon, you might have Frank ping Dave for it. I'm pretty sure he's kept all his file on his 2005 Exec even though he sold it. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ