waterskier_1

Tom, I have a PDF file of the Wiring Diagrams that was sent to me by Dave Pratt. I am traveling right now and don't have the bandwidth to upload the 130 MB file. I'll be home in a few months, and can send it off then. I have the original printed copy of the Wiring Diagrams also. But they are not as complete as I would like. They don't cover the Detroit Diesel interface module, but again Dave Pratt was able to send me a wiring diagram that helped. I don't think Monaco was complete in their distribution of the files. A 2005 Dynasty with the Multiplex system is news to me. I did through (I thought) research and what I found was that they brought out the Multiplex system for only the Sig in 2005, then the Dynasty and Exec got it in 2006. I wonder if the files are mislabeled? And then there is always the question of when a model year begins and ends. If you need the PDF soon, you might have Frank ping Dave for it. I'm pretty sure he's kept all his file on his 2005 Exec even though he sold it. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

Monaco incorporated Multiplex in the 2005 Signature. Then in the 2006 Dynasty & Exec. That is why I have a 2005 Exec. -Rick N

I agree with Richard. But note that you will have to individually bypass both relays. I would also disconnect the purple wire and tape it. This only is the coil or signal wire, but there is no need to waste energy energizing the relays after they are bypassed. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

As others have mentioned, your coach has TWO Battery Cutoff (aka Salesman Switch Relays) as shown in RED on the markup drawing attached. You can check the voltage on the two heavy cables attached to each of the relays to ground. If it varies by more than 0.02 volts, you have bad contacts within the relay. Each relay controls different 12 Volt components of the coach. Another thing to check are the Battery Disconnects shown in BLUE. These are also problematic and the same voltage test described above can be performed on these switches also. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ 2003 Dynasty High Current Print_rn.pdf

FIXED. Thanks for catching this, now a new topic. You really should start a new thread (post) when changing the subject and not what some call "Hi-Jack" another's post. It will also provide greater visibility to other readers who might not be monitoring this old post. That said, the coach is wired such that when you unplug from shore power or gen, one of the outlets no longer is powered. This is done for two reasons. First, the original absorption refrigerator was designed such that when the AC power to it was interrupted, it would automatically (if set) switch to propane and keep the contents cold. The outlet that does have power when on the inverter was put there so the ice maker function would continue when on propane. Second, the power consumed by the refrigerators AC Heater used when on AC power is quite considerable, and would be more than most would want drawing down their batteries, when propane could have been used. Now, you say that when you remove the shore power, your refrigerator beeps, it sounds like (not knowing the brand or model number of the actual refrigerator) that it is warning you that there is no AC because you have not selected "Auto" or similar for the refrigerator to switch automatically to propane. You say the GFCI does not trip, so lets not muddy the water by bringing that up (another reason for starting a new post). I'm not sure I understand you comment about all the outlets loosing power, just like the fridge, when you previously stated that if you moved the plug to where the ice maker is, it works, so clearly that outlet didn't loose power. Monaco generally put the refrigerator (main power - not including the ice maker) on it's own circuit breaker. There are likely other outlets (but not all) that do not get power when on the inverter so will not have power when the shore power is removed. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

I'm not sure you got the answer to your question. That is an old technology controller, being PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). It is rated at 30 Amps and at 12 volts that would be around 360 Watts. So, to answer you question, as long as you stay below 350 watts, it would work, although inefficiently compared to the current MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) technology controllers that are now in use. The drawings for 2003 Dynasty (likely the same as for the Exec) show 12/2 wires from the panel to the "combiner" and then 8 gauge from the combiner to the controller and also out of the controller so it can handle 30 Amps. You could connect any combination of solar panels equal to 350 Watts to the combiner and be within the design spec's of the controller and the Monaco wiring. Note that this controller was like used because it has two outputs: the main one to the house batteries and a second to the chassis batteries. The second, Engine or Chassis is limited to 3 Amps though. I also found in the manual this interesting statement: "The RV-30D is much more than just a Solar Charge Controller. It has a very unique feature that comes into play when you are charging from a 120VAC source. At night, when your RV is plugged into Shore Power or you are running your Generator, the RV-30D allows the “Engine” batteries to be charged while you are charging your “House” batteries with an Inverter/Charger or a Converter!". I don't use this controller, so I can't vouch for the accuracy, of charging engine, chassis batteries while your inverter/charger is charging your house batteries, but I think Monaco had another way to accomplish this. -Rick N. currently in Casa Grande, AZ

I believe this was a problem with some Samsung bottom freezers and they ultimately provided a fix. I'm not sure if there was a formal recall or not. - Rick N Quartzsite, AZ

I would have to research the NEC and any local building code modifications to that. I'm quite confused with the term single phase 240 VAC. I have always considered the 50 Amp 240 that is supplied in the pedestal to be "split phase". If it were "single phase" you would not have 240 between the legs. You would have 120 leg to neutral though. This is similar to what the Onan generators in the 5KW to 8KW range supply. But the 10KW and 12.5KW generators have true "split phase" output yielding 240 leg to leg. This may be a terminology issue, but single phase does not yield 240 leg to let, split phase does have 240 leg to let. As far as the NEC not allowing this, the most common case is 120 Leg to neutral, and 208 leg to leg. Many "240 VAC" devices are rated "208VAC to 240VAC" which clears up the difference. I agree that a 240 VAC only device (load) would not operate correctly on 208VAC. But only some newer, high end (i.e., Prevost) coaches actually use 240VAC for dryers. I'm not aware of any using 240VAC A/C units, but they could be. -Rick N. Quartzsite, AZ

It's likely not your transfer switch - at least not the one between shore power and generator. If it were, you would not have power out to the microwave. You don't state if you have a dual input inverter, but I'm assuming you don't. I would disconnect the "Outlet String" with the GFI receptacle on it from the inverter itself. Then check if the inverter has 120 VAC out on that line. If do have 110 VAC at the inverter terminals, then you isolated the problem to the wiring or the GFI. Note that each manufacturer of inverters specify the GFI's that will work with that inverter. Look up in your manual and confirm you are using one of the recommended brand GFI. Report back the results and we can see what the next steps might be. -Rick N. Quartzsite, AZ

Resurrecting this old thread. Camping with another Monaco owner here in Quartzsite and he is having an issue with hot water pressure at all faucets. Cold water is strong, hot water no so much. Since it's at all faucets, and worked fine the first three weeks of his trip here, I'm thinking it's likely a check valve. I looked at the back of his water heater, which can be accessed from his rear closet. I only see the bypass valve and brass fittings. I don't see anything that looks like a check valve. Can someone describe in detail, or better, provide pictures of where this check valve is located? -Rick N Quartzsite, AZ

To bring this full circle, since I was the one who likely started the confusion and resulting discussion, I checked my Aquahot Installation Manual. I have an upgraded Aquahot 600D. This unit has two 2000 Watt Electric Elements. This is what the Aquahot manual states "Connecting the 120 Volt-AC Power: 1. Run two 12-2 ROMEX wires, with grounds, from two over -current protected (20Amp circuit breaker required) 120 Volt-AC power supplies, through the Aqua-Hot’s cable clamp fitting and to the appropriate terminal block" This is also what I have. So, Aquahot is okay with running their Part Number ELX-G12-07L 120 VAC/2000 Watt electric element on 12-2 Romex. Note that this is the only 120 VAC item in the Aquahot, the rest of the Aquahot runs on 12 VDC. FIY, this element from Aquahot sells for $43.20 (https://secure.aquahot.com/ProductInfo/ELX-G12-07L.aspx). Sorry for the confusion. -Rick N.

Ok, what I am understanding is the roof air conditioners both power on. This means that you are getting power through the transfer switch to the power panel. Forget troubleshooting the the ATS. Next, as Tom points out, the power goes through a 30-Amp breaker in the main poker panel. Ten to the inverter. Since you have power when the inverter is on, the 12-volt side is working. Most inverters nave a 30-Amp input breaker and one of two 20-Amp output breakers. Have you checker the 30-Amp input breaker? How the power is routed from the inverter is of no consequence, since it is working properly when in inverter mode. If i understand what you have said.correctly, the problem is between the power panel and the inverter, to include the inverter itself. Confirm you have 110VAC to the input to the inverter. - Rick N

First, before you get off on a tangent, do you have any AC inside the coach? Do the A/Cs power on, for example. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? I doubt that this issue has anything to do with the transfer switch. -Rick N Palm Desert till Sunday

Increasing the breaker size from 20 to 30 amp will require increasing all the wires attached (downstream) to the breaker from AWG12 to AWG10. Many don't realize that the job of the circuit breaker is not to protect the load, but the wires connected to the load. Proper design starts with determining the size of the load. After the load size is defined, then the wire size required to carry the load is determined. Then the circuit breaker is sized to protect the wire. Now before Tom jumps in and states that there are no "design" requirements for 110 VAC wiring in RVs, I acknowledge that. I am only describing proper electric circuit design in general. If one chooses to make an informed decision to not follow accepted design principals, that is up to them. I'm only attempting to help those who may not be aware of those accepted design principals. -Rick N

Or the lamp is burnt out

I believe this is correct for that part number. That alternator is not DUVAC and does not have provisions for an ALT-FAIL circuit. I'm traveling this morning, but I'll see I'd I have drawings to see if you need the ALT-FAIL circuit, which would connect to one of the 3 small studs on the back. - Rick N

Tom, Seems you are being a bit picky here. First, I clearly stated that "This is a general statement, and not directed at your specific inverter". I also stated "GFCI's" which encompasses GFCI Outlets (receptacles) and GFCI Breakers. The comment was not to address which the OP had, but why the inverter had to supply a ground when inverting. I do mostly agree on what you posted after the second paragraph, but that was not pertinent to the OP question on whether inverters supply their own ground or not. I tried to stick to the point in question without true, but impertinent details. I do have all those diagrams, but they only show the AC Inputs & Outputs, and the 12 VDC battery connections, and a ground connected to the inverter. They do not show the internal wiring of the inverter, which I think is what the OP was asking. You can not tell how the inverter reacts to the grounding when switching from AC IN (shore or gen) and Inverting mode. Again my response was in general as to how Inverters work, not how his specific inverter is wired inside, nor how the coach is wired to the inverter. If I interpreted the question wrong, I apologize. -Rick N. Apache Jct., AZ

Yes. Most do. To meet code, there can only be one place that neutral & ground are bonded together, and that is at the entrance. So, when on shore power the neutral form the shore power connection back to the entrance must be maintained (no grounding in the inverter). But when operating as an inverter, it now becomes the "source" and the neutral is grounded within the inverter. This is a general statement, and not directed at your specific inverter, but I'd be surprised if it didn't function the same. If it didn't, GFCI's wouldn't work when on the inverting mode. - Rick N

I'll just throw something out there. I don't have a multiplex system so don't know if it applies, but I suspect that more than just the Park Brake has to be set to enable the slide switches. Mine has to have all the bay doors reporting closed. It has to have the engine off. I'm not sure what, if anything else has to be satisfied before the system is enabled. Might not be applicable. -Rick N.

I have had Dish Network for over 22-years. I would not, at this time, trade it for streaming, simply because the only internet service provider that would begin to work as many places as my Dish is Starlink, and that costs about $60/month more than my Dish, which is more than the basic, since I use it at home also. It costs me $0.00/mo more to use my Dish in my coach. All I have to do is take my Bedroom Hopper (Receiver) out and plug it in the coach. Then, when I travel outside my "locals" area, I call Dish and tell them where I am. In 15-minutes, I am up and running there, with all the Network & Local channels, in addition to the "cable" channels. Now, remember, this is "free" in my coach because I subscribe (around $100/mo for two Hoppers, Med Channel plan, including 9+ DVR recorders). I'm guessing it would be around $80/mo or slightly less for a basic Dish account for the coach only. You could still purchase a Dish antenna for your house and take the Dish receiver in there, if you wanted. Compare that to around $150/mo for Starlink, plus you need to have a streaming plan. I don't know what they cost, but I've seen some for around $5.00/month, but that is for just a few channels, less if you don't speak spanish. So I think most have several streaming services. I've not looked into this because I don't need it. And I currently don't have unlimited data which would be a must if you watch much HD TV. The low price plans don't have DVR (the ability to record the program to view later) either, but you can purchase hardware, or possibly Cloud storage for some recordings. I've gotten so I almost never watch "Live TV". I record everything, if for no other reason than I can skip commercials so a 1-hour show only takes 40 minutes to view. I've had Dish Antennas on different motorhomes for over 20 years. Long before HD was available. I had a simple crank up, manual air, one satellite antenna, which I upgraded to an "in motion" antenna (the round domes of the past). When HD came out, Dish had an upgrade kit for the 'in-motion" antenna, but Direct TV put their HD on a different microwave band which made it impossible to get with an "in-motion" antenna. All the in-motion antennas could only lock onto one satellite at a time. Back then, Dish had three different satellites, and I think Direct TV did also. The wasn't a problem for most of us. At that time, few had DVR-enabled Receivers (Dish strictly prohibited use in a mobile environment because it would damage their hard drive), so that wasn't a real concern. But soon people wanted to watch different shows, on different satellites, at the same time (husband one TV and wife or kids another). The only way that is possible is with a mult-feedhorn antenna. Many of us used home antennas, mount on a tripod and manually aimed. But Winegard, and others, found a market for these and the Trav'ler was born. There were versions for both Dish Satellites and Direct TV Satellites. I'm not real familiar with the Direct TV Trav'ler, but it was (and I think still is) convertible to Dish Network, but the Dish Network Trav'ler is not convertible to Direct TV. Don't know why. Over the years, both Dish and Direct TV have changed satellites, and the "coding" to identify the satellite that the automatic aiming controller need has changed, sometimes significantly. I know I updated software in my "in-motion" antenna several time, one to include hardware too, to make it HD ready. This is usually done by downloading a file, putting it on a USB Thumb drive, and then putting that USB drive in the controller and initiating an upgrade. But there have also been some hardware changes that yield some antenna versions incompatible. Sometimes this is done to force a purchase of a newer antenna. The only real way to tell if your Trav'ler is software updatable is to call Winegard, as Tom recommended. Sometimes Winegard requires you to return the whole antenna and control box for the upgrade. I did this only once, when I was on my way to the maintenance session in Goshen, I stopped at the factory in Iowa. I sold the coach with that antenna, and put an RF Mogul Eagle3 on my current coach. I think the performance is the same, but RF Mogul allows you to send the bad part in for a replacement, which Winegard prohibits. They don't sell repair parts, you have to remove the antenna from the roof and send the whole thing in, in most cases. In summary, if you currently have Dish Network, I believe the answer is clear. If you don't, you need to weigh the costs/benefits of streaming including internet access, unlimited data, along with streaming plans. While streaming can be accomplished with a cell phone, it isn't ideal. and it only works where you have cell access. Dish just requires a clear view of the southern sky (in most of the USA). -Rick N.

This is wrong. Yes the relay is 6 volt DC, but must NOT be changed or the system will not work correctly. The only way the "signal" could be 12 Volts is if the alternator's Voltage Regulator went bad and the output of the alternator was berated than 20 Volts, which would likely damage the batteries. The "signal" is actually one of the 3 field winding taps. These type of alternator's are 3-phase AC (hence which the term alternator, not generator) and that AC tap voltage, when applied to the relay, enables the ALT-FAIL circuit. If you don't want to wire it correctly, or don't want to buy the correct replacement alternator, then just remove that 6-volt relay, and the ALT-FAIL light will never come on. No need to buy a relay that will keep it from ever coming on. - Rick N

That is an awesome price. -Rick N

The primary reason for a Junction Box is to protect the connections (besides being a requirement in non-RV). It allows not only for a place for the connectors to reside, but an easy to identify location for anyone else working on the coach. If I, for example, didn't know you patch the wires, and then "hid" them, I'd not know to check there for a likely problem, or at least an easy to reach intermediary point to check/troubleshoot. That said, it's your coach, and I am not aware of any violation of code. FIY - there is "Code" requirements for low voltage (l.e., 12 volts) wiring in an RV, but not for 120 VAC. The choice is yours regarding rewiring the microwave. All that will happen is you'll trip the breaker on your inverter if you or wife forgets. -Rick N

Are you certain that it came with a screen? My old Dynasty (1997) had a screen there. When I bought my 05 Exec, it did not. I glanced at the window frame, and didn't notice a "track" for it, so just assumed it didn't come with one. Now I'll have to take a closer look at mine. I rarely open it - just for toll booths and getting directions when I am parking the coach at a resort or rally. -Rick N.

What voltage is the 30 amp plug you had wired to your home? I ask because you post "the display show no power source when plugged in to 30 amp or reduced further down to 110 which we tried to see if it was our 30 amp extension cord." The 30 Amp should also be 110 Volts. Did someone mistakenly add a 30 Amp 220 Volt (like used for electric dryers)? If so, that is a problem. If you were meaning reduced down to a 15 or 20 Amp plug, then that is fine. I would first start by finding someone with a voltmeter that has experience working around 110 volts. Have him start at the new pedestal outlet you had wired and confirm that you have 110 volts. Then move to the end of the power cord, if possible, and measure the voltage there. Many of these problems are caused by a bad plug on the end of the power cable, or bad extension cables, plugs, and outlets. The next stop would be the transfer switch. Do you have 110 volts there? You won't have 220, since you only have a 30 amp circuit installed, but you should still have 110 volts between each hot leg and neutral. If good there, check the output of the transfer switch. Is the power getting through the transfer switch? If not, something is wrong with the transfer switch or the wiring. From the output of the transfer switch to the main breaker panel and beyond are not suspect, because all that is common to the generator which you claim works. Post back your results and we can assist further. -Rick N.