waterskier_1

What does GPS have to do with BlueFire???

To answer your question, YES, a bad battery can cause this. Your charger is set to transition from Absorption to float once a preset voltage is adhesive and the current drops below a preset value. If you have bad batteries this might never happen, or may happen prematurely depending on the battery failure mode. You plan to have the batteries individually checked is good. Be cautious of charging the house back from either the inverter/charger or the alternator in the meantime. If cell(s) are shorted you can quickly boil the battery causing fire or an explosion. - Rick N

BlurFire has nothing to do with GPS (assuming you mean Global Positioning System). The BlurFire app was not written (the software code) to interface with the Amazon Fire Operating System (OS). This is not to easy that it can not be done (code written), but the inventor didn't do so. He apparently chose the big two OS to interface his hardware. - Rick N

Dave, I know you had an 05 Exec, but the 03 -06 Lincoln Navigator don't look like what I as shown below. These are the same as 3 other 05 Exec's I've seen so fluff thought they were OEM. Are these 3rd party aftermarket?

This seems to be made more difficult, or my mind is too simple. I what to clarify that when you measured L1 & L2 "combined" you measured between them, that is one probe on L1 and the Luther prove on L2. And when you did that you measured 220 (240) Volts. And you measured that with the breaker installed. But you didn't have one leg on the power panel. This indicates that either the breaker is not making proper contact (not seated properly) or the breaker (one of the "dual breakers" is bad. My money souk be on the breaker being bad. - Rick N

Did you start your engine to first build up air pressure if it had bled off, and second, the default when the engine is running, on most Monacos, is travel mode. So, it should rise with the engine running. If not, you likely have an air leak problem. - Rick N

Tom is spot on regarding the Shore Power passing through the inverter, so it is unlikely an inverter problem unless you don't use Shore Power. I'm not familiar with the 110VAC controllers you are having problems with. I avoid anything 110VAC when I can use 12VDC instead. I have a few 12VDC LED Controllers I use for similar lights. Mine are Chinese, not great quality, but are still working. The only problem I have found is they are not very selective on the frequency. Other remotes will cause them to change. My Girard Awning remote will always cause something to change. The solution is on the back burner for me, I often just unplug them. I'm sure there are higher quality (like for commercial applications) to be found, though they won't be cheap. -Rick N

This looks like an A/V Receiver, without a DVD of Blu-ray player, much like many have recommended, but also was packaged with speakers you don't need, - Rick N

I need some clarification. Is it just the remote control - the battery operated hand held device - that is failing, or is it the whole system, including the receiver/controller that is plugged into the AC system? - Rick N

I don't think you are going to find a similar "home theater" system today - at least not one worth installing. I did a fair amount of research when my system failed. I have very limited height available. I settled on a Marantz 1607 "Ultra Slim" 7.2 Channel A/V Receiver. It is only a Audio and Video unit, but it is state of the art, with HDMI switching for more devices than you'll likely need. It will also connect to the internet for Pandora if that's your thing. All my devices (Dish Network Receiver, Roku, Fire TV, Blu-Ray (also will play the old DVDs) Player and of course the TV. I use HDMI for all the connections, and the Marantz switches between them and all drives all the speakers. I'm very happy with the Marantz, but it would require you to purchase a Blu-Ray Player (I don't think you can get a new DVD player, and even if you could, there wouldn't likely be much cost savings). If you have a newer TV, check if it has ARC which will send the sound track from the TV back to the Marantz for decoding and distribution to the speakers. -Rick N

Mike, Regarding the continuous high current solenoids, you are correct - someone has jumpered across both of these, basically removing their functionality from the circuit. You are correct that these were controlled by the "Salesman switch". You can remove both but you will have to find a way to connect the output heavy cables to the fuses or the the input cables. The easiest way would be to simply leave the solenoids in place, but disconnect the small gauge wires going to the coils, so they will never be able to be energized, and thereby won't consume any current. The Salesman switch function will be inhibited, as it already is. I've indicated (please take no offense if you already know this) in red how the cables would need to be routed, if they are long enough to reach the respective fuses. You are correct on removing the three items, whose function will be replaced by the ML-ACR device. The biggest issue will be physically connecting the cables (hopefully the cables will be long enough). -Rick N. The only time you would have problem with attempting to start with the house batteries, especially when the chassis batteries is if the house batteries are Lithium Batteries. Lithium batteries can not support the current draw that could be necessary to start a big diesel engine. The typical Lithium battery was rated at 100 AHs and could supply a maximum of 50 to 100 Amps of current before the internal BMS should disconnect the battery from the system before the cells were destroyed. Most have a couple of these batteries, so it's more like 100 - 200 Amps, and few may have 500 + AMPHrs meaning they are border line on supplying enough current for the starter, but we don't know how much additional current will be drawn by the depleted Chassis battery in addition. That is why, as a general rule (I make it a firm rule on all the systems I design, but eliminating any Boost Switches) not to use the Lithium House batteries to jump or start the main engine. If you need a jump, use your toad. All this only applies to Lithium House batteries. No matter what some will say, they are not direct "drop-in replacements". They may not be damaged immediately but it will decrease their life. Just like discharging a lead acid battery well below 50% may not show immediate damage, but it will have lost life. -Rick N.

I can't read the drawing you posted. I'm not sure if it is applicable to your question, but my answer does not consider the drawing. Unless you have manually turned the ML-ARC "ON" with a switch, which is not the normal mode of operation, the relay will be "OFF" meaning the battery banks are disconnected. From the ML-ARC data sheet, when the device is in Auto Mode (normal operations mode) it will only combine the banks when either one of the banks has a voltage above 13.5 volts for 30 seconds or above 13.0 volts for 90 seconds. Additionally, there is "Start Isolation" which provides temporary isolation of the house loads for 3 - minutes while cranking the engine. There is also Undervoltage and Overvoltage Lockouts. I suggest you check out the data sheets online for more info. If you have questions, please ask and I'll try and help. -Rick N.

My 2001 Dynasty wiring diagrams (should be the same for 2001 Signature) show that it had a Solid State (Diode) Isolator along with a Lambert LE-415 Battery Maintainer. The IRD (Isolator Relay Delay), not a BIRD (Bidirectional Isolator Relay Delay) came later. I suspect, as posted above, that the Isolator diode for the Chassis Battery has Opened (versus Shorted or Closed). This has left the Chassis battery without any charging. The House batteries are "overcharged" because the DUVAC alternator voltage regulator is connected to the Chassis batteries, which are continuing to drop in voltage, signaling the alternator to put out more, which is only going to the house batteries, which have not feedback to the alternator. A temporary "fix" is to move both the outboard cables to the center terminal which is the alternator output. This will restore charging to the chassis battery, and alternator voltage regulation. BUT, it will allow the house to discharge the chassis battery, hence the "temporary fix" designation. Once you stop driving, you will have to remove the chassis battery cable to manually "isolate" that battery bank until proper repairs can be accomplished. The Blue Sea ML-ACR is a good choice to replace the Solid State Isolator. -Rick N.

Thanks for this, but your 98 Dynasty is not an RR8S (Raised Rail 8 Bag Side Radiator). It has a S-Series Chassis meaning Semi-Monocoque Chassis steel chassis with integral welded steel body framework. It doesn't likely make any difference (besides possibly the bag part numbers) in your write-up. - Rick N

The L-N/Prestolite website shows a replacement, but it can NOT be use with a battery isolator. I have no wiring diagrams or experience working on a Cayman, so I can't advise the suitability. I read on iRV2 that this was a special order alternator by Monaco, and when Monaco when bankrupt, L-N/Prestolite discontinued the product. It has reverse polarity for the terminals. Recommend having it rebuilt, if possible. -Rick N.

I agree with Ray, don't worry about the alternator until you can get it started. I would use my toad to jump start, just like you would any other vehicle. If your batteries are below 11.0 volts or so, the built in inverter/charger will have disconnected itself, and starting the generator will not help. The proper thing is to use an external battery charge to charge the batteries. If they hold a charge, then load test them. If they are all good, then start troubleshooting the alternator and any other charging problems. -Rick N.

Tom, he has a Victron MultiPlus Inverter, not a Magnum. The Magnum settings and remote panel are not applicable. There is a similar setting in Victron, which may require a Configuration Application to change, depending on how it is set up. All that feature does (absent some interface with the Intellect Load Sharing Circuit Board), is to limit the battery charging. That is, it will not let the charger consume any power that might be required by other loads. The way the Boost (called Hybrid Boost also) functions is to indeed use the House Batteries and the Inverter to supplement the incoming power. Think of it as paralleling the Shore Power and the Inverter - for descriptive purposes. It is more than simply tying wires together. Victron MultiPlus (and Multiplus II and some newer Magnums) can do this and supply up to twice the input current, limited by the maximum the inverter can supply. It may seem like magic, but it does not violate any laws of physics or electricity. The Victron website has tons of information (much more than most of us can digest) about their products. But, as I have mentioned before, Victron's business plan is to have dealers/installers who are trained on the produce do the installation, configuration, and setup. The manufacturer does not support DIY or questions from non-Victorn professionals. I think it is important, along with knowing the year and model of the coach, to know the specific equipment being discussed. I do think it was clear in this case it is Victron, and not Magnum, based upon the Subject Title. -Rick N.

I can see why you are confused. There is conflicting information. I was speaking to the ATS that I am familiar with. It does not have a surge protector built in, but there is one before the ATS. That is where the protection and delay are initiated. There may be some ATS with electronics embedded within them, to provide delays, but I've not worked on one. After reading the comment about hearing relays click when Shore Power is applied, it jogged my memory. I do remember helping someone diagnose there no power problem, and that ATS (don't remember the brand) was set up with a "center off" position. That is, without any power from anywhere, the input to the coach was not connected to either Shore Power or the Generator. I didn't analyze it completely, other than to acknowledge that I could freely move the contact either way and had two coils, one to pull down for Shore Power and a different to pull up for Generator. We determined it was bad, neither Shore Power or generator would engage the contacts. I'm not sure how the generator priority was accomplished on that ATS. I know that the drawings all show a signal from the generator, which is what initiates the transfer to the generator. The generator always has priority. If Shore Power initiated the transfer, (absent the two coil ATS mentioned above) when the generator was started, the ATS would remain on Shore Power. Additionally, if the generator was running, and Shore Power connected, that would initiate a transfer from the generator. Bottom line: someone really needs to take thever off your ATS and watch what is (or is not) happening when Shore Power is applied and when Generator is started. You can also check if the relay is a "double throw" or "double throw with center (unenergized) OFF". Sorry for contributing to the confusion. -Rick N

JD, I'm a bit skeptical of the transfer switch, since the de-energized state I'd typically Shore Power. When the generator starts and is up to speed, it sends a voltage to energize the ATS, dropping Shore Power and passing generator power to the coach. Unless you had an occurrence of Auto Generator Starts, the ATS should always be in the Shore Power position. The contacts might be dirty, but I don't see this as an energization of the ATS problem. - Rick N

I just checked the Leece-Neville Maintenance Instructions (Form 4801-8/95) which I have on file for the 200 Amp 14 Volt, 4884JB Alternator (used with DUVAC Systems) that I have on file which was installed on my 1997 Dynasty. I STAND CORRECTED: The above document states: shut off all electrical asccessories run engine at approx 1200 RPM Connect voltmeter across battery terminals Set voltage to Manufacturer's Specifications. Absent those, they recommend set so voltage at battery terminals is 13.8 to 14.1 volts. I still believe that 13.7 justifies investigation. If that is the correct value AT THE BATTERY, then it might not be high enough to satisfy the ALT-FAIL circuit. This assumes that the generator or shore power or solar is not connected to the Chassis battery. This might be a bad ALT-FAIL Relay, or the alternator may indeed be failing. The ALT-FAIL Relay is the only (to the best my my knowledge) 6 VDC Relay used in our coaches. It can be difficult to find, but when I last checked, Amazon did have them. A good Starter - Alternator repair shop should be able to determine if the alternator (or voltage regulator) is bad or begining to fail. Tom's advice about verifying any unknown meter with a high quality CALIBRATED meter is good. But, even if not accurate (doesn't show the true value), as long as it is reliable (shows the same value for the same voltage over again), it can be used to monitor CHANGES in the system. If you had been seeing 14.0 volts, and now see 13.6 volts, something is deteriorating and should be investigated. -Rick N.

Where do these parameters come from? The alternator manufacturer? I admit that I missed the fact that this is a Cayman, but I am not aware of any alternators designed to output only 13.6 volts. That is typically the float voltage of a multistage charger. But the alternator, unless you have special info on the Cayman, is not a multistage or smart charger. All the alternators I'm familiar with for Monaco Diesel pushers have a 14.2 - 14.4 volt output specification for the voltage regulator. Some have adjustable voltage regulators, but the manufacturer specs show it should be adjusted to 14.2 - 14.4 volts in operation (not no-load). It could take hours for a low SOC battery to recharge at 13.6 volts. In my opinion, notwithstanding the Cayman fact, any output less than 14.0 volts needs to be investigated. An output below 14.0 volts will likely trigger the ALT-FAIL circuit - and this would not be a "false" trigger. The typical "false" trigger of the ALT-FAIL circuit we talk about is on coaches built before 2007 (=/- a year) which don't have a generator disable trigger for the ALT-FAIL circuit. In those cases, having a second charging source, typically the generator (which is turned on to provide roof air while driving down the road), but could also be caused by solar or shore power, (just not as likely to have shore power on when the main engine is running). In the case of two or more charging sources, the alternator may attempt to reduce the voltage and can't, but in doing so the output of the alternator is so low that the ALT-FAIL circuit is triggered. It is a "false" trigger since there really is charging going on, just not under the control of the alternator. This is a totally different scenario than an alternator with reduced voltage output. -Rick N.

If you are only getting 13.7 Volts at the chassis battery, it is not surprising the ALT-FAIL light is coming on. You should have 14.2 - 14.4 Volts at the chassis battery (assuming the grid heaters are not on). Next step is to measure the voyage at the back of the alternator. Be careful, connect the leads with the engine off, make sure the leads are clear of any rotating devices, then start up the engine. If this voltage is more than 0.1 - 0.2 Volts higher that the battery voltage, you have a wiring or connection issue (could be in the ground/ chassis side). If the voltage at the back of the alternator is the same, next step would be to pull the alternator and have it checked. Some alternators have an adjustable voltage regulator, others it is fixed. An alternator shop will know and can bypass the voltage regulator to determine if it is the alternator or the voltage regulator. - Rick N

Maybe contact the chassis manufacturer (Forfeit, Workhorse, MB) and obtain the part number. Then check the internet for that part number. -Rick N

I wasn't clear. When I said same, I didn't mean shared. On my 8.3C, there were two identical sensors, one for the ECU and the other for the dash gauge. I do agree that there is more likely wiring issues with the dash gauges, but that is not because they are not accurate. If you have wiring issues with the ECU sensors, problems would also occur. I think this topic has run it's course. -Rick N.

I don't have a wiring diagram for 2000 Sig (or Dynasty or Exec which would all be the same), but in 2001 the Dynasty, Exec and Sig the insta-hot shared it's outlet with many other outlets: The wall lamp, D/S O/H, Bar O/H, Galley O/H, 3rd Galley Recpt, Ice Maker, Stove (for electric ignition), Insta-Hot, Galley Lower, Front TV, Home Stereo, VCR DSS, Front P/S O/H, ceiling chandelier, D/S wall lamps, Dinette Table O/H, Dinette Rear O/H, Dinette Table Cabinet. Note that some of these are options. Also, these are all on the Inverter. -Rick N.