waterskier_1

I just bought the same item as the link to Amazon at my local WallyWorld for $2.00. -Rick N. Wheatland WY

John, if you have the generator running (or are connected to shore power) your inverter/charger senses that, and does NOT invert, but instead simply passes the 110 Volts AC through. It is impossible for the inverter with 110 VAC connected to it to be in inverter mode. Instead, it is in battery charger mode (assuming you have enabled the battery charger). So you don't need to do anything on the 110 VAC side when running the generator. This discussion has to do the the inverter battery charger (when there is generator or shore power) will confuse the ALT-FAIL circuitry that monitors the main engine Alternator. It see the inverter/charger charge voltage, along with the engine alternator charge voltage and gets confused. Later modes have correct this issue by simply disconnecting the ALT-FAIL light when the generator is running. Not the best solution, since you theoretically could have the alternator fail, when the generator is running, and there would be warning. In your case, you can either put an additional load - like Van said, the headlights, which will allow the ALT-FAIL circuit to work better, or, simply temporarily shut down the generator to confirm the ALT-FAIL light goes out. -Rick N. Wheatland, WY (on my way to Gillette, WY for MI Pre-Rally and FMCA Rally)

I think it is true, for any original Monaco alternator, or proper substitute. I'm sorry you got lead the wrong direction. -Rick N.

I'm not sure why you chose to use the LN AVI160 210 Amp alternator and then installed any sort of isolator when the Prestolite Website specifically states: Part Notes : Verify application. Will not work on applications using battery isolators. Good lesson for all to ensure when replacing parts, especially alternators, to verify they are indeed interchangeable. I can't count the number of times I've helped owners who have purchased the wrong alternator and want to rewire the coach to make it work, or it flat out will not work and they have to buy the correct alternator. Wisdom has shown that rebuilding the original alternator is the best approach to ensure compatibility. -Rick N.

Thanks. I've never considered a remanufactured (other than rebuild of the original) alternator. So, the question really is "what manufacturer's alternator (and model) did Wilson remanufacture? - Rick N

Do you have a feel for how far from the GPS this camera can be located? I'm toying with the idea of putting it on the back of my Grand Cherokee so I can see directly behind it. I'm guessing 60-ft away. - Rick N

The Red/Blue circle Logo tell me it's a Delta brand. -Rick N.

It depends. I've never heard of a Wilson Alternator. But in general, there is a voltage regulator, either externally mounted (like on a firewall or fender in a car) or mounted on or in the alternator (called internally mounted since there is no separate component). Some Voltage regulators are adjustable. Some are fixed. In any case, you should be getting 14.2 - 14.4 volts measured AT the chassis battery (not a Silverlear or dash gauge). If you do not have that voltage AT the chassis battery, either the alternator or the cabling between the alternator and the battery is bad. Assuming that this Wilson alternator has an external tap on the stator coil, which is where most Alt-Fail circuit monitor the voltage. My 06 Dip drawings show that is the case, but I believe there was a discussion a while back that some of the drawing were wrong/outdated. I don't think that affected the Alt-Fail Stator pickup, but instead had to do with the Duvac sensor. -Rick N.

In addition, when you do not have the Aquahot PreHeat turned on (which is designed for the Aquahot boiler to heat the main engine coolant via a heat exchanger) there is coolant flowing when the main engine is running, being pumped my the main engine water pump. So, when the engine is running, coolant is being circulated through the PreHeat heat exchanger. You don't want to have the main engine running and the PreHeat on at the same time. The problem is that the main engine water pump can somehow damage the PreHeat circulation pump if it is on. -Rick N.

The first thing I would do is measure the voltage at each bulb. That will tell you if something else is loading it down, or the bulbs are bad or wrong bulb, or dirt has built up on the inside of the lens. -Rick N.

Tom, I may not be an expert (don't know how to define that), but those experts are correct, an RV (not just motorhomes) are different from a house (they actually are designed to move). I'm not sure if Monaco thought they were smarter than the electrical engineers and safety experts that participate in the NEC and NFPA or UL. That is because NONE of those pertain to recreational vehicles. There are standards that do pertain, notably the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and the Recreational Vehicles Industry Association (RVIA). One of the Standards I use when designing low voltage (think Lithium Battery, Inverter/Charger, as example) systems is the ANSI RVIA Standard for Low Voltage Systems. This standard is not the same as the NEC for low voltage systems. Just recently the RVIA has adopted the 2023 National Electric Code. I have not purchased this version since I don't do much design in that area, but most of the code is followed. I'm sure there are examples of exceptions. There is an ANSI/RVIA EGS Standard for Engine Generator Sets for RV. I'm sure there are many others. Also recognize that the code does change. I recently got notification of a change to the 2023 National Electric Code (NEC) which now states: The 2020 NEC required GFCI protection for kitchen receptacles serving countertops. One significant change the 2023 NEC delivers for residential construction is the extension of that requirement beyond the countertop. Now all 125 V to 250 V receptacles anywhere in a kitchen must have GFCI protection, regardless of their location or proximity to a sink. This protection can be provided by either a GFCI breaker or a GFCI receptacle; however, the code requires that the GFCI be readily accessible, making the GFCI breaker the easier option to achieve this. So, now Microwaves and Refrigerators will require GFCI in residential construction. I haven't received anything from RVIA other than to acknowledge the 2023 NEC exists. I'm not sure if it will apply to new RVs, but I'm pretty sure it won't be retroactive. Things are always a changing. -Rick N. -Rick N.

Kind of an extreme measure just to watch TV while driving. It would be much easier to simply pull the fuse that controls the relay. Absent that, just bypass the relay at the outlet where the TV plugs into. I did install a small inverter for my front TV on a previous coach, but I did that only so that I didn't have to run the large main inverter when dry camping. BTW, inverters take low voltage (typically 12 volts) DC and change it to higher voltage (typically 110 volts) AC, while converters take 110 Volts AC and change it to a lower (typically 12 Volts) DC. Note that in the standard definition, a converter doesn't charge batteries too. That would be a battery charger. -Rick N.

What are you referring to when you say "STOP"? Turn the TV Off? Kill the power when the ignition switch is turn on? Or is this a ceiling mounted TV and you are looking for a limit switch? -Rick N.

I think I've mentioned this before, but here is a guy who has replacement hydraulic pumps for sale in the USA. I got the one for my 2005 Exec with a Detroit Diesel and Allison 4000 series PTO. Mert @ Farwest Hydraulics 45480 Commerce St # 3, Indio, CA 92201 Indio, CA Cell: (760) 347-5555 -Rick N.

Here is the AC wiring diagram for 2006 Diplomat. The outlets that are not on the Inverter are Highlighted in violet. I have also highlighted the Inverter Circuits: The Microwave is in Green and all the outlets are in yellow. I hope this helps sort things out for you. -Rick N 2006 Diplomat AC Wiring.pdf

This varies by year and model. Generally, the lower end coaches had fewer outlets on the inverter than higher end. That might be due to higher end coaches having an Inverter Sub Panel versus a single line out of the inverter. I know many who have wanted and added non- inverter outlets to relive the inverter limitation on total current that can be used. I think the Worrell case of outlets on the inverter was my 1997 Dynasty - every outlet was on the inverter, including the Block Heater! - Rick N

Yes, as long as the batteries are pretty much charged to start with. I have done this with a 15 Amp outlet, but you have to really be cognizant of what is consuming power. In most cases, it will just trip the 15 Amp outlets' circuit breaker. One clarification about Tom's post regarding resetting the incoming power current. All this does is monitor the usage and turn down or off the battery charger. It ONLY controls the battery charger in the inverter, prioritizing it as the lowest. But it alone has no other control or limiting function. It will not prevent you from turning on an A/C, for example. It will allow you to do that, at least until the 20-Amp outlets' Circuit Breaker trips. It is not and Energy Management System, not that Tom said it was, but some my think that. -Rick N.

I'm wondering how air in the line caused this? The pressure should be the same whether air or water, even though air is compressible. What am I missing? - Rick N

Dave, we can't get to your Local C:\ Drive. -Rick N.

Ok, now that we know this is Bill Groves's Dynasty, and that he added EMS to it, I think I may be able to help with some troubleshooting. I looked up the 2006 Diplomat wiring diagram for reference. Knowing Bill, he likely did that too. There would be no reason for him to totally design an EMS when one already exists. Given this, there are four circuits that can be controlled by the EMS, the Front A/C, the Rear A/C, the Water Heater (120 Volt side) and the Washer/Dryer. Note that Diplomats of that year didn't come with a third A/C (that I am aware of - it's not documented). But, I believe that Bill's coach does have a 3rd A/C - can you confirm this Kerry? In my somewhat limited experience with EMS coaches, I believe that some did have a 3rd A/C, and that was also connected to the EMS board. I think when that occurred, the Front A/C was not connected. But, it is also likely that Bill used the Electric Water Heater terminals for one of the A/Cs, since he doesn't have an electric water heater. He does have an Aquahot, but I'm quite sure he would not have run that through the EMS. So, what you likely have (assuming only four circuits) is Rear A/C, Center A/C, Washer/Dryer, Front A/C. My approach to troubleshooting this would be to turn off all the breakers in the main power panel, except for the Inverter. Then confirm that on the terminals for BRKR #1, BRKR #2, BRKR #3 and BRKR #4 to Neutral show no power. Then, one at a time, turn on the Front A/C and note which BRKR # has power. Then turn it off and turn on the Washer/Dryer and note the BRKR #, and so forth with the Center A/C and Rear A/C. This should yield the four Breakers (circuits) that are controlled by the EMS. If you have power to one the the BRKR terminals on the EMS when you turn on the Front A/C, you know you have power from the main panel to the EMS board. Next, turn on the thermostat for the Front A/C to A/C and set the temp low. If the EMS is working it should pass power from BRKR #( ) terminal to RELAY $ ( ) terminal. If this is true, you can now say, that with no other circuits competing for power, that the Front A/C is being powered up by the EMS. If the Front A/C still does not work, then you know it is a wiring problem from the output of the EMS and the Front A/C, eliminating the EMS as a point of failure. If all this works, then start adding one circuit (Breaker) at a time and confirm that the Front A/C is still working. If it quits, then it is due to the EMS shutting it down, and that is a different subject to explore. Hope this is helpful, if I'm not clear, let me know. -Rick N. Opps, I was composing my post above when you posted that you have fixed the problem. Please let us know what you found so we all may learn. -Rick N.

This is not correct. All Monacos (from the mid 1990's) from the Dynasty and up (maybe others too) had provisions for charging or maintaining the chassis battery while on Shore or generator power. Early years had a Lambert battery maintainer, newer years had a BIRD (Bidirectional Isolator Relay Delay) system. I'm not sure which the OP had, but the Lambert may not Haase had the capacity to supply the headlights current requirements. - Rick N

Guys, if the batteries are below the Low Voltage Cutoff, typically around 10.5 Volts, the inverter/ charger has disconnected itself, and will not reconnect until the battery voltage raises above a certain value, typically around 11,5 Volts. You can reset till heel freezes over m but it will not acknowledge the batteries. You will have to use an external charger to recharge the batteries, then the inverter/ charger will reconnect, if the batteries accepted the charge. The rationale for the above is two fold: first to protect the inverter from over heating and destroying itself because of the excess current required at the reduced voltage and, second, to protect the batteries from damage from drawing them down. - Rick N

I'm not keen on just adding a fan. Unless there is air significantly cooler than that surrounding the panel, you won't accomplish much. Remember that simply moving air across an inanimate object provides no heat transfer or additional cooling once the offer is at ambient temp. I concentrate on keeping the heat from entering from the engine compartment. -Rick N

Is this causing a problem? I must confess that I have never checked the temp of my shore power panel while driving. As a single owner, I'd have to run back at a rest stop to do that. Since this isn't something I or likely most would check out of curiosity, I'm wondering if the heat caused a problem. -Rick N

Ray, I'm more confused now. I thought it was settled that the coach Kerry M is posting about is Bill G's Dynasty. Did Kerry M also own Bill G's Diplomat? - Rick N