waterskier_1

Whole true, that is not germaine to troubleshooting the subject coach. Had this not been Bill's modified Dynasty, discussions about EMS would not be helpful. My point is one must know the year and model to get valid suggestions. - Rick N.

Bill Grove had a DYNASTY, not a DIPLOMAT. I discussed this modification with Bill. He took pieces and parts from lower end units (Diplomats and Knights, maybe Camelots) which came with the the EMS. I am not sure why he would have used Orange Wire (yes, the color of the Romex indicates the AWG of the wire inside). Typically, the Front A/C does not go through the EMS. I know he also added a window A/C to his bedroom. That he could/would run off the inverter. I don't recall him mentioning any changes to the Front A/C though. I you are positive that you have 120 VAC on the output of Circuit Breaker 1A (Front A/C - 20 Amp) then you have a problem. I don't know how you can route new wire to the Front A/C from the power panel. I would check the back of the power panel, to see if there might be some clues.

You are missing my point. While i agree that Monaco took too many liberties and had poor or no real configuration management of their technical data, as you rightly point out, there is nothing in that system that requires AWG 10 wire. The only 30 Amp circuit I can think of is the inverter/charger. Most use 30-Amp feed(s) to the inverter, and from the inverter to the Inverter Sub Panel (on the higher end coaches - hot the Dips), So why would that wire even be around for "normal" AC circuits? It likely wouldn't, so where did it come from? Maybe an after- built regulator or modification? Did a PO have a problem with that A/C? Is there some funny business going on with the EMS? I'm also wondering: Did Monaco make Platinum III in the Diplomat line in 2006? I know they did in the Dynasty line. But if it's a Dynasty, I don't think it had an EMS. Bill Groves, RIP, had a 2006 Dynasty, to which he added his own EMS because he liked the auto load shedding feature. OP, it's this a Diplomat with a load shedding EMS, a Dynasty w/o EMS, or some modified version? - Rick N.

Highly unusual. Orange romex is AWG 10, while Yellow is AWG 12.. I can't believe Monaco would use both on the same circuit. - Rick N.

Agree with Rik's comments. Especially the generator when driving. I've read several reports where, depending on the specific coach, the generator doesn't get proper air flow when going down the highway. They weren't really designed to take advantage of the "forced air" and in some cases, the air is forced around the generator radiator. It would be nice if we had a temp gauge for the generator in these cases. The other concern is once you are there, does the park have sufficient 50 Amp Shore Power such that it doesn't drop significantly when all the other RVs are running their A/Cs. I had that problem at a park this spring. Many of the trailer and coaches were only 30-Amp units with single A/Cs. I'm not sure how they wired the park, but clearly most of those ended up on the same leg, as it would sag below 95 volts at dinner time. They called an Electrician out, but there really wasn't anything he could do. He couldn't raise the voltage at the transformer, because the no-load, or minimum load voltage was already at 125+ Volts. The problem was either too small wiring conductors to the pedestals, too many pedestals on each circuit (run), or, most likely, both. My surge protector shut down my shore power several times. Decreasing my load didn't make much difference, because everyone else was running large loads (A/Cs and microwave or electric cooktops/skillets). Have fun - you'll likely be running between an A/C'ed coach to an A/C'ed Car to and A/C'ed building. -Rick N.

It's not likely a loose ground - that would cause the radio not to work, but wouldn't blow the fuse. If the fuse is blowing immediately, the positive wire is shorting to ground somewhere. -Rick N.

I had that drawing, but it shows a DUVAC Alternator, and an ALT-FAIL relay circuit. This is different from what is being reported by owners. The Drawing seems to be obsolete, or at least not up to the current configuration of as-built coaches. -Rick N.

The wiring diagram shows three, two off to the left, and one off to the right. -Rick N.

This is an updated drawing, but I can't say for sure it is what you have. It does give a good pictorial view of the rear of the alternator though. _Rick N. 2007 Knight_Ambassador Alternator.pdf

Larry, I couldn't find the specific drawing you are referencing. I looked in the 2004 Windsor Wiring Diagram, but it still has Drawing # 38031242, which still shows a DUVAC alternator, although it's not being used with a SSI (Solid State Isolator). You are correct that the need for DUVAC is/was based on the Forward Voltage drop of the diodes used in the SSI, which would not allow a "normal" alternator to fully charge the batteries. It is still used where there are long runs of battery cables where the potential for I**R voltage drop may be significant (voltage drop due to the resistance of wire at high current flow). There is no problem using a DUVAC alternator, with the DUVAC terminal connected directly to the alternator output. This all has to do with the reference for the Voltage Regulator. I don't see any connection with self-energizing. As I previously mentioned, a drawing I found dated June of 2006 shows the replacement of the DUVAC alternator with an alternator that has a Lamp Driver output, which does away with the ALT-FAIL circuitry and ALT-FAIL Relay. -Rick N.

Ok, based on the wire designations going to this alarm module, it sounds on Oil Pressure Alarm, Water Temperature Alarm, or Alternator Charge Alarm. So, one of those is likely what's causing the module to sound off. -Rick N.

Aladdin, Bluefire, Scan Gauge, and others are NOT Management Systems. They are only Monitoring Systems. The Management it performed by the ECU (Engine Control Unit), the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) and others. You do not NEED any of the Monitoring Systems for your coach to operate properly. If you did, Monaco would have included them. But the Monitoring Systems do help you see what is going on, and present a lot of information that some find useful, to include Speedometer, Tach, voltage, coolant temp, trans temp, turbo boost, and a host of others. Most also provide a Diagnostic Tool, which can read error codes (similar to what an OBDII scanner does on a gasoline engine) and can even reset (clear) some of the codes. -Rick N.

You can not prevent the steps from opening the first time you open the door after shutting off the engine (or when the engine is running). This is a safety feature to allow passengers to exit the coach. After the first time, you can use the switch near the passenger seat to either keep the steps open all the time,. - Rick N

The Plot Thickens! My 06 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams clearly show a DUVAC alternator. Upon closer inspection, I see that the specific drawing is dated 2002. So, it seems there were changes made, that are not documented - surprise, surprise. I went 2007 Wiring Diagrams, and the DUVAC is NOT used (Drawing dated 8/8/06). But what really struck me is they are no longer using ALT-FAIL relays. The updated alternator has a "lamp driver" output which connects directly to the ALT-FAIL lamp on the dash. Since I don't have any details (it seems the Prestolite site has changed a lot since I last visited and they no longer have detail specifications listed). I don't know what exactly the "lamp driver" is connected to inside the alternator. The older versions had all three of the 3-phase stator windings on the back of the alternator, and that is what Monaco used to control the ALT-FAIL Relay. As I mentioned before, that was a 6-volt relay. I won't go into the theory of operation, since it seems moot in light of the design change. I also don't know if or how having another charging source might affect the ALT-FAIL lamp. I stick by my suggestion that the voltage at the chassis battery measurement is going to reveal the real condition of the alternator and the charging circuit and voltage regulator. Without being at the coach and taking actual voltage measurements of the "lamp driver" output under various conditions, I can't help further. -Rick N.

You could disconnect this to see if that is causing the problem. If it is, and it didn't before, then maybe it (the Trik-L-Start) isn't the problem, but the alternator might be. _Rick N. 12.4 Volts is below 50% charge. You should have 12.7 for a fully charged battery. I don't know what your plug in monitor for Trombetta, the IRD and the inverter are working is connected to, but when you are troubleshooting (versus just Monitoring), you need to go to the source. There can be unknown voltage drops over long wires between the front and the back of the coach. You should have 14.2 - 14.4 Volts on the Chassis battery - Measured AT THE BATTERY, with a VOM. If you don't have this voltage, then the alternator is not wired correctly, or is defective (or the wrong alternator). Hopefully you can check this without crawling under the coach. -Rick N.

I'm not familiar with Camelot's, so I don't know if you have a full Aladdin system, or what is often referred to as an Aladdin Junior. On my full Aladdin, there was a "control box" behind the "center console". That is where my rear view camera, along with the two side view cameras (mounted on the right and left rear view mirrors) along with the inside camera connected. It also had the connections from the data cable to give that info, along with tank (propane, fresh, grey, black) status. In any case, there were multiple (I think at least 4) sets of composite video outputs (think the Yellow Phono - RCA connector). One goes to the bedroom for that monitor, another to the built-in dash monitor, which I think was originally part of a stereo system but had been removed by the time I got the coach. I ran another cable from a unused output to a larger (10-inch I think) 12 Volt stand-alone monitor I mounted to the dash, so I could see the cameras better. You might try bringing in a monitor or a small TV that has Video Inputs, as Steven said above, and connecting it to an unused output (or if you don't have any unused outputs, the remove the cable currently going to your monitor) and you should be able to determine if it is an Aladdin problem, or a cable/monitor problem. -Rick N.

You will not likely find new (not new old stock) panels that will work properly with that panel. Like Ivan, when I upgraded my solar system, I decided not to toss the original panel (I think mine was 100 Watts on my 05 Exec) but instead allocated it to charging the chassis battery. I did replace the old, inefficient PWM (Plus Width Modulation) controller with an MPPT controller though. I also went a bit further than many - I completely isolated my Chassis Electrical System from the Coach Electrical System. I did this because I had conventional Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries for the Chassis and Lifeline AGM batteries for the coach. Even though both have similar charge characteristics, the engine alternator is not a Smart Charger. Instead it charges at a constant 14.2 -14.4 volts always (unless too much load it put on it such that the max output is exceeded). I did not want my new (expensive in 2018) AGM batteries sitting at 14.2 volts for 6 - 8 hours a day, as I was driving. This is even more important now that I switched to Lithium Batteries that can not be safely charged directly from the alternator. So, the Chassis battery is either charged by the alternator when driving, and then by solar when not. Since the battery if fully topped off when I park, 100 Watts solar is plenty to keep it charged. When parked, the inverter/charger maintains my Coach batteries, when there is not sufficient solar, and the solar has no problem keeping the Coach batteries charged while driving. I have a total of 1400 Watts - 100 Watts to the Chassis battery through its own controller and the remaining 1300 Watts go to the Coach through its own controller. -Rick N.

According to my 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagram, you do indeed have a DUVAC Alternator. This type of alternator is used to sense the voltage somewhere other than the output of the alternator. That "somewhere" may be on the battery side of an isolator where there is a voltage drop between the alternator input and the battery itself (typical of a Solid State Isolator with Diodes). That somewhere may also be at the end of a longer run of cable, which could have a voltage drop due to the distance and current. You do not have a Solid State Isolator, but instead have an IRD (Isolator Relay Delay). In any case, the Sense wire of the DUVAC MUST be connected, or the alternator will assume there are zero volts (an open) and attempt to run at max output, eventually overheating and possibly burning itself up. I wonder if the correct alternator was installed, or if it the alternator was installed correctly. I say this because you should have 14.2 - 14.4 volts at the chassis battery when the alternator is running. You state you only have 13.8 - 13.9. The ALT-FAIL relay is a 6 volt relay (likely the only 6-volt relay in the coach) which gets its input from one of the three windings on the alternator. If the alternator output drops, so does the voltage on the winding, causing the ALT-FAIL relay to drop out and the ALT-FAIL light to come on. One other thing that can cause the ALT-FAIL light to come on is to have another charging source connected to the chassis battery. This is usually the battery charger when running the generator. But your coach doesn't automatically charge the chassis battery from the inverter/charger. Also, solar charging can cause this, if the solar is connected to the chassis battery. You really need to know the voltage AT THE CHASSIS BATTERY when the ALT-FAIL light comes on to determine if it is the alternator, wiring of the alternator, or other circuitry causing the light to come on. -Rick N.

Yes, the city water does run through the water pump. If you know you have issues with that, that is where I would begin. Remember that heating of domestic water (i.e., hot water at the sinks and shower) is performed by the Aquahot, even when you don't need to heat the coach. -Rick N.

Oh, you'll likely need to use another pair of wires in the bundle to power the rear camera. -Rick N.

Yes, you are correct that the fan speed will vary with engine RPM as the pump speed varies. But that speed has absolutely nothing to do with the coolant temperature. The fan will run the same speed at the same RPM in 0°F Colorado Winters as it does in your 105°F Summers in Texas. Most users want the fan speed to reflect the coolant temperature and not the engine (or transmission) RPM. I have not looked in the conversion costs, and I'm all for saving money and DIY, but only when the functionality is not degraded or lost completely. Just IMHO, others may differ. I just wanted to bring to others attention that this "hack" doesn't provide the functionality that existed and which I think most would want to remain. -Rick N.

Do Camelots have a second Aladdin monitor in the bedroom? If so, does it work or have the same symptoms? -Rick N.

I just did a cursory review of this document, and it appears to just set the fan speed at a single speed, that by trial and error, will keep the coach at a desired temperature (i.e., 9.9 volts for 190°F). Also, there is a "fail safe" that will turn the fan on maximum if some temp is exceeded. This seem to be very rudimentary, without any temperature input (other than fail safe). In essence, this is a single fixed speed motor running at the same speed when at ambient temps from -20°F to well over 100°F, for coolant temps of 32°F to potentially 250°F (not accounting for the engine thermostat which would prevent circulation through the radiator until around 180°F or whatever value thermostat you install). It seems to me that the old wax valve would be a much better choice, since at least it varies the fan speed based upon coolant temp. I realize that the wax seal doesn't take intake manifold air temp, A/C state or barometric pressure or turbo boost into account in an attempt to anticipate (be proactive) potential increase in engine work requiring additional cooling or vice versa. I've had the wax valves on my 97 Dynasty Cummins C8.3 and my 05 Exec Detroit Diesel (I don't think Monaco used the FDCA on DD Series 60 engines). The main complaint I have is that it seems to me to take a long time for the fan to lower the speed when driving under light conditions or idle after running down the highway. I tend to stir up a lot of dust when driving off pavement because the fan is still at a higher speed. That doesn't happen when I drive it after a full cool down (like overnight). Something to consider, -Rick N.

Does your home brew controller modulate (vary the speed) of the fan or is it simply On/Off? -Rick N.

I seriously doubt that the ECM circuitry can provide sufficient current to drive the "solenoid". You would likely burn up the whole ECU - not good. I'm not clear on what you have, since I'm not familiar with PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) engine fan control, nor a solenoid control hydraulic valve. I'm thinking you have the solid state (electronic) FDCA Fan Drive Control. Most people are replacing that unit with the original-type wax valve mounted on the radiator. The FDCA was supposed to be far superior, detecting accelerator position, boost, barometric pressure and other things, in order to predict (proactively) the need to raise or lower the fan speed BEFORE the temperature had time to change significantly. But the implementation was poor. As Mark mentioned above, Source Engineering (founded by two ex-Monaco employees) recognized the problem and developed a conversion kit to wax valve control. -Rick N.