waterskier_1

I use all three (Sam's or Pentagon Credit card) at GasBuddy stations, TDS (Open Roads), and Mudflap. I have never found Mudflap to beat GasBuddy stations after the 5% CC Discount. But there are very few Mudflap stations where I travel (West and South West). Right now I'm in Gillette, WY for the Monaco International Pre-Rally and the FMCA International Rally. There are no Mudflap or TDS stations within 250 miles going South, and even then, they are $4.20/gal versus $4.17 at a local Truck Stop (unaffiliated). -Rick N.

My point was that those systems were not "Management" systems. As you state, YOU can operate the coach - YOU are the Management system. A ScanD can not "manage", meaning take preventive or corrective action. It can only present data to something or someone who can take action. The Engine Control Unit/Module (ECU/M) does have "management" functions, and can display warning and if not heeded, de-rate or completely shutdown the engine, as an example. ScanD can not do that. Some may think I'm splitting hairs, but I wanted to ensure readers that these would not "Manage" or Protect their coaches, that is usually left up to the operator, but if he ignores, there are built-in management systems to take over. Some feel that reading a digital number is more accurate than an analog gauge, but they are only more precise. The accuracy comes from the sensor, often the same sensor (like water temp or oil pressure) that the analog gauge uses. -Rick N.

I guess my comment about likely needing to run (additional/new) power might have been a bit vague. First, you will need to decide if you want a "cooktop" or a "portable" unit. By convention, a "cooktop" is permanently installed, and usually consists of two 1800 Watt burners. This is a 3600 Watt unit and usually requires 220 VAC connections. These are likely not what anyone is considering, since it would only work on a 50 Amp Shore Power Connection, and would require significant rewiring to supply 220 VAC to the unit. A "Portable" unit typically has 2300 - 2600 Watts spread over the two burners (1150 - 1300 Watts for each burner) although you can get lower powered units, and single burner only units. A 2300 Watt unit would require a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, while a 2600 W unit would require a 25 Amp circuit. This is assuming no other loads on the circuit. Second, you need to decide if you want this to work off an inverter. As Tom points out, most coaches have a 2000 Watt (some 2500 Watt and newer coaches 3000 Watt) inverters. Obviously you would need at least a 3000 Watt inverter just to power a portable induction unit. All Electric coaches typically run two inverters, and newer technology incorporates 24 VDC or 48 VDC systems, versus our typically 12 VDC systems. Then consider battery requirements if you plan on running off grid. If you run the cooktop only 30 minutes a day (I'm assuming at full power for this), that would be 1150 Watt-Hrs consumed. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it will likely require more electrical design considerations than just plugging into a Subwoofer outlet. -Rick N

You will likely need to run a new line to power a two burner induction cooktop too. - Rick N

It might be that you are hearing the return springs on the jacks, or if the coach is starting to move, there are a lot of suspension parts that could be becoming unweighted. -Rick N.

Are you saying there is a bypass that will keep the coach level in travel mode if the six-pack valves are leaking?

Which system? You automatically bypass the Leveling System when you start the engine. I am not aware of any way to bypass the Air Suspension System though. - Rick N

Here is the HWH Operators Manual ml24573.pdf

I doubt it is the leveling control panel. It's my understanding that when you start your main engine, the leveling system is taken out of the circuit and the system will go into travel mode as a default. This is for HWH Air Leveling. I'd look for a problem component that is not in the leveling system circuit, like the Ride Height Solenoids and Richard suggested. -Rick N.

Jeff, as I mentioned in my previous post, my sub was not powered. It needed full power (versus a Sub pre-amp) out of the A/V Receiver. If you tell me the specific brand & model of your A/V Receiver I might be able to provide better guidance. My Marantz A/V Receiver has a 7.1 amplifier, but I only am using the existing 5.1 speaker configuration. This allowed me to connect the sub to one of the remaining 2 powered amplifier channels. It is not exactly the same as a sub-output, since it has the full frequency response, but the sub can't respond to the higher frequencies, and I have not noticed any distortion. -Rick N.

According to the Monaco Brochure (attached) you have a "Semi-Monocoque Tubular Steel Frame" with 8 Air Bags. This is often referred to as an "S-Series" Chassis. It differs from the RR8S chassis which is a Raised Rail 8 Air bag Side Radiator design. The body structure of the Raised Rail (which refers to the steel frame) is mounted (bolted or welded) to the frame. The S-Series the body structure is part of the frame (kind of like Uni-Body autos) which can not be separated from the frame (and still have anything left). It is the top of the line of the Road Master Chassis that Monaco built. -Rick N. 2000_Dynasty.pdf

What year and model coach? On my 05 Exec the Sub Woofer does not have it's own amplifier - so I could not use the typical Sub-Woofer output of my Marantz A/V Receiver. Since this is a 7.1 A/V Receiver, and I'm only using 5.1, I used one of the other channels to power my sub. Granted it has all the frequencies, but the sub will not respond to the higher ones. There is likely some inefficiencies, but I can't hear them. I had no problems using the 8 Ohm outputs for the speakers. Are yours dead, or just low volume? -Rick N.

The 2002 Windsor was Semi-monocoque with Steel Superstructure. The 2004 was Raised Rail Side Rad with Aluminum Superstructure. I don't have info on the 2003 Windsor. I have read, but not verified, that by 2013 all the molds and manufacturing equipment from MMC, purchased from Navistar and then AVS by what is now REV were destroyed and written off. I'm pretty sure you won't see the original Monaco Roadmaster chassis after 2013. But REV does call their Freightliner a Roadmaster Chassis, which might be confusing to many. -Rick N

I don't know what year they started, but I can tell you that my 1997 Dynasty had a Semi-monocoque chassis. From then on, all Dynasty and above (Executives and Signatures) did, until they were redesigned by Navistar after the company was sold to them. I'm not sure what year that was, I think around 2009, but I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong. Some Windsor (maybe all?) had the Semi-monocoque chassis. The Semi-monocoque chassis are often referred to as the "S-Series" chassis. The lower level chassis are referred to as RR series which stands for Raised Rail chassis. There are RR10R which are raised rail 10 airbag with Side radiator which the RR8R would be a raised rail 8 airbag, rear radiator. They also made RR4R chassis (4 airbag, rear radiator) but not any RR4S. Hope this might help. I don't know for sure older then my 1997.

I have a wiring diagram from a 2001 Dynasty wiring diagram which is the closest I could find to a 97 Windsor that shows the whole picture that is not electric. My 97 Owners Manual shows only an electric (the same as what the OP posted). This is for a hydraulic slide. It looks similar to what Tom posted for a 96 Dynasty, but I could not find anything like it on page 12. I am quite sure from when I owned a 1997 Dynasty that that was the first year that Monaco had a slide. In any case, the drawing below might help explain the wiring and how it works. Note that I used colors to highlight that are NOT necessarily the wire colors, since Black and Gray don't show up and there are multiple Red. I was trying to understand the circuitry. Two things happen when you push the switch. First is to initiate power to the hydraulic pump (which turns in only one direction). The second is to cause either the "In" or "Out" solenoid to energize. These solenoids control the valves that open to direct the hydraulic fluid to push the ram in the "In" direction, or the "Out" direction. I'm sorry for confusion I am have caused on this issue, but all the wiring diagrams I have for that era showed only the electric slide motor with gearbox (as the OP posted). I'm glad the OP got this all sorted. -Rick N. 2001 Dynasty Slide Wiring Diag.pdf

Is this issue resolved? From previous post it seems so, but if didn't come from the OP. I'll consider it closed and no needfor additional wiring diagrams. - Rick N

Do you have a relay control board under you bed that the switch connect to which in turn controls the motor? If it is like mine, the wiring is not straight forward, even though the function is. I'm leaving for dinner right now (@Monaco International Rally) but I'll see if I can access my server after dinner and post wiring diagrams for my coach. Yours may be similar. - Rick N

My 05 Exec electric slide is as Richard stated. It has a control board with two relays that switch both the positive and negative. The motor turns in both directions. - Rick N

Yes, it would perform the exact same function as the main 50Amp breaker in your main power panel used to do. But more than just a switch, it should protect also, so a breaker. I suspect the thinking behind it is someone could come along and re-energize the Pedestal breaker while someone was working on the coach. And if the generator breaker wasn't flipped, an auto generator start could start the generator. It will also protect the wiring from the Pedestal to the inverter from overheating and catching the coach on fire if something shorted out in the inverter itself. I recommend either installing a 50-Amp breaker in its own mini box at the inverter. I'm assuming the inverter output is now going to the main power panel 50-Amp breaker. - Rick N

Tom, could you provide me with links to the other boards regarding "international hemorrhage" please? As a Victron (not Vitron) Professional, I have never heard of this condition. It is true that there are a lot of Victron installations aboard vessels, mostly because it is one of a few manufacturers that provides a totally integrated system including solar controllers, inverter/chargers, shunts, temperature sensors and controllers that all talk to each other. The system is quite scaleable, including providing energy needs for whole communities in places where no infrastructure exists. It has provisions to be grid tied, allowing the user to "sell energy" back to the utility company. JD, many similar installations use one of the 30-Amp cables that used to power the inverter from the main power panel for the microwave circuit, with appropriate sized circuit breakers. I strongly recommend some sort of master cutoff before the inverter, similar in function to the 50Amp main breaker so you can kill all power if necessary. It is also a requirement, not that I am any sort of requirement police, but must do have a valid reason for existing. -Rick N Gillette, WY foot the Monaco International Pre-Rally

Now that you have better defined your configuration, I suggest you connect the Cebro up, even if it means letting it lay on the bay floor. It might give you insight if the Victron system is shutting things down. For those trying to help, JD has rewired his coach so that the transfer switch likely feeds his inverter. Many that do this do not go to the main power panel & it's 50 input breaker, but some do. In either case, all power goes through the inverter then (usually) back to the power panel and use the breakers in there to feed the coach, with the exception of the microwave. He claims he does not have input to his inverter, while at the same time his watchdog shows he has power to the coach. The only device between the two, as far as I can tell, is the transfer switch & possibly a 50Amp input power circuit breaker. But it is going to take someone with a volt meter to test those devices, and the wiring. - Rick N

Most of the A/Cs have a built-in automatic delay when starting up, whether from a cold start or an intermittent loss of power so the current would be minimal across the contacts. Also, if true, you would have to remove or disable any AGS (Automatic Generator Start) functions since that is basically the same as starting the generator while going down the road. Do you also turn off your inverter/charger? Do you turn off the main battery disconnect? -Rick N. loss of power I would disregard anything that has to do with the inverter at this time. Concentrate on getting voltage to the main 50 Amp Breaker in the Power Panel. Once you have that, then you can chase inverter problems, if applicable. -Rick N.

I think the confusion may be that the isolation switch would be used only when servicing (troubleshooting, diagnosing) the system when you would need the batteries to be disconnected from the alternator only while performing that service. Agent the isolation switch was engaged, the batteries would no longer be connected to the alternator. In no way would this be useful under non-servicing conditions, since the alternator couldn't charge the batteries. This might be useful in resistance checking the diodes or the windings (stator or rotor) when there cannot be any voltage present (other than that which is provided within the ohmmeter. Isolate & isolator are commonly used terms, often adjectives but sometimes morphed into nouns, that can be applied to many different situations and devices. Consider the word "red". You can have a red wire, or a red box, and neither have to association with the other. - Rick N

Confirm you have 110VAC on each leg OUT of the watchdog. If you do, you know things are good to that point. Continue checking voltages through the transfer switch and to the main power panel. Of course, this testing would be done when you have no current draw. - Rick N

First, that was not my statement, I merely quoted Prestolite. Second, an "isolation switch" is a switch designed to be used to isolate (remove) the alternator from the battery. The note you quote is describing a fuse to protect the alternator should a short occur. It then mentions that it is sometimes useful to be able isolate (separate) the battery and the alternator during servicing either the alternator or the batteries. This is not the same as an "battery isolator" which is designed to keep two (or more) battery systems "separated" from each other. It is easy to isolated battery systems. The difficulty is charging two (or more) separate systems while keeping the systems isolated (separate) from each other. A device that does this is commonly called an isolator. There are many ways to do this; solid state diodes) electric mechanical relays (solenoids) electronic switches, etc. Even though I am an Electrons Engineer, I did not design, nor have access to design documentation, so I can not explain why the design engineers felt it necessary to and the not about usage with a (battery) isolator. I would accept the manufacturers recommendations and find a suitable replacement. - Rick N Gillette,, Wyoming