waterskier_1

Why not just add an SPDIF optical cable also? Run it from the TV to the Bose for audio? - Rick N

On my 06 Exec, the power is connected to a lockout outlet in the ceiling, to the left (DS) of the TV. Do you have the Entertainment cabinet over the passenger seat? If so, it was not to difficult to route the HDMI & SPDIF (the first replaced didn't have ARC) from the TV to that cabinet, once that cabinet was emptied. I use an A/V surround receiver so I only needed one HDMI to the TV. All my other components (Dish Receiver, Roku, Blu-ray, etc. ) all connect to the A/V receiver. - Rick N

Interesting! Obviously my 97 Dynasty with a C 8.3 Mechanical had only one hydraulic fan. I haven't even checked to see how many fans my DD 60 has, but it does have the over-height radiator fins on the outside. That would account for the difference between the part numbers. -Rick N.

It's going to be quite a feat to replace the prams TV through ant of those side cabinets. 😀

What engine do you have in your 09 Dynasty Yorkshire? I think Dick has an ISX and has -308-210. My 05 Exec has a DD Series 60, and has -303-210, which has the same specs as Dicks, except Dicks is Left Hand rotation, and mine is Right Hand rotation. They both are 550 cm motors, while the one you mention is 440 cm. If you have the ISC or ISL, then maybe it called for a slightly smaller pump due to less heat being generated. This is purely speculative. -Rick N.

If not available locally, try the current manufacturer, White House Products, www.whp.co.uk. You'll have to make a free account to see costs. I found they can be less expensive than USA, if you can handle the 10 days - 2 weeks shipping. They also have an expedite, but it is costly. - Rick N.

Yes, at least on an 05 Exec, which I think would be very similar. I posted on how to access the TV mount just yesterday under the topic "Replace Front Tilt-Down TV". You might check that out first, and then if the cable routing isn't obvious, let me know. -Rick N.

I'm looking up my notes on my 1997 Dynasty Hydraulic Fan Motor Replacement/Rebuild. I found the Part Number: 551101308210 is a " MN3 M 440 L AF 06 AS 210 (SNM3)" per Advanced Fluid Systems, Inc, 751 Hurricane Shoals Road, NE, Lawrenceville, GA 30043, phone 770-963-6164. I have this specific part number highlighted, so I believe it is the same pump that I replaced. I found that the seal kits were very hard to find. You had to order in quantities or 25 or 100 or some such thing. Not many small rebuild shops would rebuild that many of that exact pump in the lifetime. I did find a way to get a kit sent to me as an evaluation item. I ended up ordering the pump itself. I found it at Berendsen Fluid Power and had it shipped to their location in Aurora, CO (my Dad lives in Denver). The Aurora (Denver) phone is 303-373-4840. Mine was leaking, but no where enough that I lost power steering. It was making a mess, but it was leaking less than a quart every 50 miles, just I just kept filling the hydraulic reservoir. Oh, one thing to caution you about - the basic motor does not come with the hydraulic speed control valving (not sure the correct term). You can tell by the number of hydraulic hoses - two large ones for the motor itself and two or three going to a unit that mounts on the back (not obviously a separate unit) that has the smaller hoses. Mine was wax valve controlled, and I'm not sure the interface if you have the electronic control. -Rick N.

This info is from my 2005 Exec. It also has the Panasonic Camera (which is worthless and needs to be replaced). I did some research in preparation for replacement. What I found is that the Converter box was used to "convert" what I'll call standard definition (SD) Video which is typically associated with the Yellow RCA (Phono) plug/jack. I believe this was done because they didn't want to run SD Video 40 - 60 feet through the coach. I have no idea what the signal is converted to/from - doesn't really matter because the Panasonic camera used (TW-CC100B in my case) is no longer supported. According to my drawings, only the Red, Orange, Black and Brown wires were used. They terminate to M35. I honestly don't know what they do, other than to guess that Red is +12 VDC and Black is Ground. I believe there is some sort of splice or another connector at the back of the coach because my camera has Red, Green, Black, 2) Whites and yellow (maybe additional) wires going into the camera itself (see attached photo). After much reading, I came to the conclusion that it was not worth it to attempt to design a new camera interface that would work with the existing Converter Box. When I do my upgrade, I will use the shielded cable (I think it is Yellow at the camera) as the video feed. I will abandon all the other wires. I'll find the corresponding end of the shielded cable (likely NOT Yellow) that goes into the Converter Box, and terminate both ends with some sort of coaxial connectors (maybe miniature at the camera. I will discard the Converter Box completely. The shielded cable that went into the converter box, after proper termination, will go to the Aladdin module (that is where the cable that plugs into Yellow RCA (phono) Jack that is on the Converter Box terminates in my coach. That way the Aladdin control box distributes the backup camera, along with the Right and Left and Inside Camera to the Aladdin monitors (one on the Dash, which goes to a new Stereo Deck Display, and one to the Bedroom display. This may be part of the See-Vision Option on my coach. If yours goes directly to the Deck, because you don't have the other cameras, the procedure would be the same. Note that I have not performed this modification, but believe it will work fine. Let me know if you have questions. -Rick N.

This is true, but you have to get the current to the starter in any case. This would significantly help is the current starter was cranking too slow. But, as I understand the original problem, he can't get power through the starter solenoid. -Rick N

I'm thinking the heat has more to do with wire resistance increase, than thermal expansion of the connectors. I've had gasses motorhomes (think Dodge 440 from the 1970's) that had a heat problem. Both due to the starter getting too hot and the fuel lines vapor locking. But I haven't read about this being a problem in our diesel pushers. There isn't the confined compartments like front engine rigs. In any case, voltage measurements will tell the story. -Rick N.

On my ceiling mount drop-down TV, I found it easiest to take the top screws (under the decorative buttons) out while it was still in the UP position. When lowered, you can't reach the top screws. Then I partially lowered it, so all the weight of the back panel (the panel you see when the TV is UP) was not on the screws. Be careful, that is one big honkin piece of sheet metal - not lightweight plastic. Another reason for partially lowering is I could us my head to help support the weight as I unscrewed the bottom (closest to the floor when in the DOWN position). Of course, if you have an assistant, that would be better. Once you remove the back panel, you can see the "frame" that supports the TV. You should not have to do any further disassembly. You should be able to see the cables connection to the TV without removing the TV itself. -Rick N.

Ok. Many models have the starter in the rear run bay. Guess it depends on the model and year. Voltage checks at the battery while trying to start are the easiest. If you have to check voltage at the starter (or starter mounted solenoid), it's best to run wires to the solenoid back to your meter. -Rick N.

In order to jump around the solenoid, you need to find it. Then just jump between the two large wires. The other option, if you have room, is to jump directly from the battery to the starter post, but be very careful, and just to for a second to see if the starter spins. you don't want it starting. -Rick N.

I'm not sure if that starter has an integral solenoid or if it is remote. The ones I've recently looked at were remote. But high temp can increase wire resistance, and may drop the voltage so low the starter, even with the solenoid energized, won't spin. That is why voltage measurements are so helpful. -Rick N.

I am not a fan of replacing parts in hopes of finding a solution. Many times you create more problems, and end up chasing yourself in circles. I think the Windsor has the remote start switches - can you confirm? They would be two toggle switches on the same panel, in the rear engine compartment. One is likely labeled Front, OFF, Rear, and the Start (momentary Switch). These will allow you to try starting the engine from the rear so you might see (hear) what is going on. If it is the Starter solenoid (relay) that is clicking, you can try jumping around the relay to see if the starter will crank. You can also monitor the chassis batteries voltage when you do this. If the voltage drops a lot, you have bad batteries, if it doesn't change much, the batteries could be good and just a bad connection or the solenoid. Try taking these steps, and report the results aback and the group can make further suggestions. -Rick N. Colorado Springs, CO

Opp, I was think of the Tach. Sorry. -Rick N.

I'm not sure about a Freightliner or Dutch Star (this is a Monaco group), but Monacos of that Era got the speedo signal from the alternator. - Rick N Colorado Springs, CO

All the Cummins techs that have presented at Rallys have said that unless you have modified your engine, there are sufficient controls that you can't damage the engine. The computer will derate the engine to protect itself. That said, I would not drive my chipped Ford diesel pulling my boat over tye mountains without a pyrometer. I know I can exceed max temp on the Ford after being chipped. - Rick N

I'm not sure what you mean by "Ignition Trigger". Did you have your alternator rebuilt, or did you buy a new alternator. I suspect if the later, you did not get the correct alternator. It must be a DUVAC alternator. If you did rebuild or get the correct DUVAC alternator, then it is not wired correctly (or, possibly, a defective rebuild or alternator, but unlikely). I have worked with many people who have this problem, and it is always either the incorrect alternator, or incorrect wiring. I am not a proponent of addidn't additional diodes or switches to "force the square peg in the round hole". -Rick N.

I'm no at the computer right now, but on many coaches all you need do is remove a fuse in the FRB to disable thr ignition inhibit signal. - Rick N

You either have an incorrect alternator as Frank posted, or the replacement alternator is incorrectly wired allowing 12-volts to be continuously fed-back to the ignition relay effectively eliminating the ignition switch once started. - Rick N. Colorado Springs, CO

The "Wait to Start" functions similarly to the glow plugs you are thinking about. The block heater is a 110 VAC heater that is either in the engine coolant system or the engine oil system. If you go to your main power panel, you should have a circuit breaker labeled "Block Heater". Turn that breaker off, and see it that makes any difference. That breaker is connected to an outlet in the engine compartment (not sure where it is physically in a rear radiator coach, but someone should be able to tell you). The block heater has a 110 VAC line cord, sometimes called a "pig tail" that is plugged into that outlet. On some coaches (my 1997 Dynasty, as example) that outlet is hot if the circuit breaker is turned on. Most newer coaches have a switch on the dash, labeled Block Heater, that energizes a relay which in turn supplies 110 VAC to that outlet, so you can leave the block heater plugged in all the time and turn it on and off from the dash. -Rick N. Colorado Springs, CO

I have more questions than answers. First, are you troubleshooting a "Does Not Crank" issue, or a "Does Not Run" (meaning it cranked and maybe started to run, and then stopped) issue. I read the post as Does Not Crank. Therefore, we should not worry about keeping it running, just yet. I don't believe that you have posted any wiring diagrams that match what you actually have. Even the Relay Wiring Diagram doesn't match - the Fuses in the diagram call for 25 Amp, but what you actually have calls for 20 Amp. The Start Solenoid Relay (seems redundant terminology, since a Solenoid is a type of Relay) is the Omicron Relay on that board. It appears that this is the only starter solenoid or relay. I suspect you have already checked, but what are the state of the LEDs on that board? When you turn the key to Ignition, the Yellow IGN RELAY Signal LED should light, indicating that the relay board is receiving a signal to energize the IGN RELAY. If so, and the board and relay are working properly, the Green Relay LED should light indicating that the relay is indeed energized. This all needs to happen before it will crank. Next, if the Transmission is in Neutral, and all other Safety lockouts (if any) are good, the Relay board should get a voltage to the NEUT/SAFETY relay SIGNAL and that LED should light. Then, that signal should energize the NEUT/SIGNAL Relay, and the RELAY LED should light. If all the above happens, then the circuitry is set. Next, when the key is turned to the START (Crank) Position, the Yellow LED under the START SOL RLY should light indicating the relay board has received the voltage from the Key switch. Then the START SOL RLY should energize, lighting the Green RELAY LED and supplying voltage to the Starter. If either Red LED is lit, that means the associated fuse is bad. If I try to rationalize the wiring diagram with your specific board, I would guess that the 3 Conductor "Header 3" is the LED lights power source. LEDs don't run directly off 12 Volts DC, they are lower voltage. So, the Ignition source (12 VDC) comes in that header, and the MOSFET just the the right (Black and silver device with 3 leads soldered to the relay board) creates the correct voltage for LEDs, and the exits on one of the header pins, and the third connection (pin) is for ground. This circuit is completely independent of the rest of the circuity on the relay board. The 4 Conductor "Header 4" has the wiring for the previously described Ignition, neutral/safety and Start circuitry. One wire, likely the heavy black wire on pin 4, is the wire to the Starter. Another wire, likely on pin 3, is the signal from up front that says the Transmission is in neutral (and any other safety that might be required to be met before the starter can engage). Pin 2 likely carries crank or start signal (voltage) coming from the Key Switch up front. Lastly, the yellow wire on pin 1 is likely the ignition voltage from the Key Switch up front. The two Switches shown in the wiring diagram are the Front-Off-Rear and the Start Switch located just to the right of the NEUT/SAFETY Relay (likely mounted to the Relay board itself - though I can't say for sure from the picture. I hope this analysis might help you in troubleshooting. Just remember that both the IGN Relay and the NEUT/SAFETY relay need to be energized before the START SOL RLY can be energized. -Rick N.

I'll through this out since it is an easy check. I have a 05 Exec, so think the chassis side should be similar. I had a problem with the Front-Off-Rear switch. I didn't make contact all the time, resulting in an Off condition no matter the actual position of the switch. - Rick N