waterskier_1

Can you try that with complete sentences, and punctuation? Did you replace the relay with a 6-volt or 12-volt? The light is ???? Is it working? I don't understand - think you are saying you have the new alternator installed? What does "on the was" mean?? -Rick N.

If you have the money, and the indoor facility is convenient and has power, that would be the best. For me, having power is much more important than having indoor storage - after all, if you weren't storing it, and were instead using it, it would be outdoors (presumably). Even if the indoor facility has heat, unless I could get there within an hour of so of it losing electricity (including time to notify me), I would winterize it - especially if you have an Aquahot. That is $10K or more to replace if it freezes (including labor). I store mine outside, with electricity. I also have solar, which it uses most of the time - it hasn't been plugged in since I returned from the FMCA Rallies last August. I will plug it in though. Last year I didn't, and was out of town and we had 24" of snow and cold for over 5 days - that about as long as I can last on batteries (also heating my LiFePO4 batteries). I had to make a special trip home overnight to plug it in. Which brings up another point - solar. If you have solar, and are paying for electricity, that is more justification for storing it outside vs inside. If you have electricity, you have an excellent smart charger built into your inverter that will maintain your batteries. If you don't have a BIRD system, you will want (if you have not already installed) a way to also maintain your chassis batteries. I can't stress winterizing unless you have direct control (and are immediately available if it fails) of the heated indoor storage. In my priorities, the closeness of having my coach in my yard is much higher than having it stored inside, but we are all different. Lastly, you didn't specifically ask, but I do not recommend the RV Fabric Covers. No matter how well fitting they are, they will chaf the paint. The access is significantly limited when they are on, and lastly, most important to me is the weight. I can't, and I dare say most of the members on here can't carry it up the ladder to the roof. They weigh upwards of 100 pounds. I know some that use a forklift to get it up, but you still have to unroll it, center it, climb back down (with the ladder now covered) and tie things up. I bought one for my previous Dynasty (only 32-ft) and it weighed over 60 pounds. I strapped it to a backpack frame, and got it up there - once. I didn't even open the box. I slid it back down on an extension ladder, and sold it. Don't miss it a bit. -Rick N.

Ok, when you turn on the headlights, the marker and brake lights come on. Can you tell if the "tail light" (the lights that should be on) are on too? What happens when you turn on your turn signal - do any lights flash? You post thet if you turn off the headlights all the marker and tail light work as they should. What exactly do you mean by "turn off the headlights"? If you turn them off, there should be no marker or tail lights to work. Do you mean they are off as they should be. Or, do you mean by "turn off the headlights" that you just put the parking lights on? That would allow the marker lights to be on too. In this case, do the brake lights come on when the brake is depressed, as normal? If things do work correctly with the Parking lights on, then your problem resides in the headlights and their wiring. I would first disconnect the headlights, as close to the headlights as possible. Then turn on the headlight switch and evaluate. Do things work as normal, or are the brake lights on all the time? If things are normal, the headlights are the problem. If they don't work, then the switch and wiring to the headlights are the problem. -Rick N.

Please post a picture of the back of the alternator. Is the ALT-FAIL light on? You can simply pull the ALT-FAIL relay and the light will go out. Obviously, it won't be monitoring the alternator condition when removed. -Rick N.

Tom, I don't know about replacing the transducers. I haven't read about anyone needing to do that. Yes, these are multiplexed on a buss. Each gauge appears to a an Application Specific microprocessor within the "gauge" itself. That apparently decode the stream on the buss, and then does what it needs to to drive the steeper motor which in turn moves the needle. If you watch the YouTube video I posted above, the tech explains some of that. I think if something goes bad on the main board, you are screwed, unless someone like Paul or maybe M&M could repair it. - Rick N

He doesn't have a 2003 Camelot with pneumatic gauges, he has a 2005 Exec with electronic gauges. Rick N

Yes, but there are also the large Positive & Negative wires that would be connected too. You are likely correct. Since Monaco did away with the Solid State Isolator (diodes), the remote sense isn't that important Sine the cables from the Alternator to the batteries is relatively short. But the self excitation is a problem. Sheer do you connect the wire? Normally it would be connected too +12 Volts, but if you do that on some Monacos, you can't kill the engine, since the ignition key is out of the circuit. You could rewire the coach to make it work, but it's best to get the proper alternator. Rick N With only one small wire, it doesn't sound like the alternator does not have taps for the field (stator) windings. This is required for the ALT-FAIL Circuit. If you connected the wire that should have gone to the Field Tap to 12 Volts, you would likely blow the fuse, some the 6 volt ALT-FAIL Relay, or both. You need to get the correct alternator, and likely a new tech who understands charging systems.

I have a 2005 Exec also, with this problem. I hope to be working on it this weekend. Here is a post worth reading from Dec 31, 2022. Skip through to the YouTube video, and read on from there. I have ordered the Capacitors that Paul Whittle ordered that fixed his problem. I trust the link that Paul gives, more than the link in the video, because I know Paul. These are Faria Gauges. As Steven A (Chargerman) posted, these are indeed electronic gauges. They are driven from an interface module (behind the dash) which decodes the ECU parameters for most of the gauges, but has pressure transducers for the Air Pressure gauges. . They do employ stepper motors, but that doesn't seem to fail as often as the capacitors. Plus the capacitors are cheaper and easier (for those who have worked with surface mount PCB technology) to replace. My capacitors are scheduled to arrive today (Friday) or tomorrow. I will try and document what I find, but Phil (and the YouTube video) already have done a great job. -Rick N.

Since you say this problem started after the original alternator was replaced, the replacement likely caused the problem. The alternator required for you coach is "special". It is a DUVAC alternator (although with the Isolator Relay Delay it is not really needed). But is also has a tap (actually 3, one for each stator) that is used to determine the functioning of the alternator. I'm attaching a diagram from a similar coach. If the incorrect alternator is used, most often it only affects the ALT-FAIL circuit, or doesn't fully charge the batteries. Since it is blowing fuses, indeed both fuses, it is either the wrong alternator, or it is (most likely) wired incorrectly. If it didn't occur right after the alternator was replaced, and it was only the ALT-FAIL fuse, then you could consider a bad relay or bad wiring (shorted) going to the relay. But it is also blowing the IGN (Ignition) fuse also. This provides the excite voltage, where required, and is also the way to stop the engine. If this is not wired correctly, the alternator will "back feed" from itself to the ignition buss, and the ignition key will no longer kill the engine. I would start by looking for the wiring error, ensure the correct alternator is installed, and also look for any damaged wiring that might have occurred during the alternator replacement. Many times the mechanic connects the wires to the wrong terminals. The physical location and the electrical location of the terminals may vary between manufacturers, and even between different models within the same manufacturer's line. -Rick N. 2006 Diplomat wiring diagrams Alternator.pdf

There are a few different things to check. First, do you have about the same water pressure as before this problem occurred? Second, I've read many posts about not having the "City" and "Fill" Valves set to the correct position. I don't have those valves, so I can't elaborate, other than to say that if they are set incorrectly, you just recycle the water in the fresh water tank. The most common problem I've experienced over the last 45 years, especially on the houseboats, which suck water directly from the lake, is a small piece of dirt gets in the internal (to the pump) check valve, which keeps it from properly closing. In past years, you could get rebuild kits with new parts, and servicing the pump would correct the problem. This didn't happen near as often in the RVs, likely since the water I put in the tanks was clean. There are other check valves in the plumbing system too. I don't think your Ambassador has a water manifold where you can turn off individual water lines, but you can disconnect the output of the water pump and plug (cap) it. Then restore (assuming you followed Tom's suggestion that you pull the fuse to shut it off) power, and see if the pump builds pressure and shuts off. I forgot to mention that there is also an internal (to the pump) pressure switch would could also be bad. If the pump builds pressure and shuts off, you know you problem is after the pump. If it doesn't, the next thing I would try is removing the input to the pump, and temporarily connecting a piece of tubing long enough to go from the pump out to a bucket filled with water. Again, restore power and see if the pump shuts off. If so, you know you have a problem before the pump, if not, the pump internal check valve or pressure switch is likely bad. I don't think you can be repair kits, by you might check with the manufacturer of you specific pump. Post results and we might be able to further advise, as it is impossible to cover all possibilities. -Rick N.

A quick Google search shows the main difference is the Electric Relay was changed on the -04S. There is an upgrade for the 03S. - Rick N

I'd trust the Victron first. But I'd review all the settings on the Xantrex, including the battery capacity. - Rick N

Where did you ultimately find the ones like came on your coach? Do you have a link or a vendor & part number? - Rick N

A quick Google search shows that device has a limited lifetime manufacturer warranty. If you to get it replaced under that warranty, I don't think you want to be replacing components within. I'm not sure what you mean by "I can make the rest of the trip without the Generator during a bypass". Typically, the Surge Protector is between the transfer switch and the Shore Power connection. It is completely out of the picture when on generator. The rationale is that we can more easily control surges from our generators than we can from random power sources outside the coach. -Rick N.

I'm not sure how you can make this statement without knowing all the loads in the particular coach. You might be correct IF the only load was the Residential Refrigerator and absolutely nothing else. Then we can draw some correlation between time on 4 6-volt batteries versus 8 6-volt batteries. But you can't draw that correlation between your coach with 4 6-volt batteries powering what is "normal" for you, versus someone else's coach with 8 6-volt batteries which a potentially significantly different load. The only way such a determination can be made is by monitoring the the current flow into & out of the batteries on each coach. If that current is close to the same, over the same time period, your statement holds true. But I don't have the same current flow from day to day on my coach. We need objective data here. My Magnum Reference material (Magnum ME-ARC Advanced Remote Control and Magnum ME-RC Standard Remote Control) both allow for equalization on Flooded, AGM-1, AGM-2, GEL, in addition to LFP, CC/CV and Custom for the Advanced Remote Control. All of those MAY be equalized. NONE are automatic. You MUST "To turn on Equalize charging, ensure the LCD display reads “Float Charging” or “Full Charge”, then press and hold down the ON/OFF CHARGER button (about five seconds) until the LCD screen displays “Equalizing”. So, the statement that you can equalize on only AGM-1 is false. Additionally, AGM batteries are Lead Acid batteries, just not flooded. According to Lifeline Batteries website : Can I equalize AGM batteries? The short answer is Yes! Those interested may follow the link for more on the subject. I recognize that I have used specific references (which I have quoted) and not all Inverters, Remote Controls and Batteries may be the same. This is why it is important to not generalize if there are indeed differences (I don't know that there are, I did not do an exhaustive research). I was there with you at the Balloon Festival - that is where we met. Unless there are indeed battery or charger problem, which there is no objective evidence presented to that fact, only that it doesn't perform as well has the OP had hoped, I will reiterate some things to consider. First is to do a power survey of the actual power consumption of the coach, specifically overnight. If the tools to do that are not available, then make sure ALL unnecessary loads are shut down or disconnected. I recognize that there are quiet hours, as there should be. But if due diligence to ensure the batteries are "topped off" before quiet hours, I believe (again absent defective batteries or charger) that his coach with minimal loads will make it until the end of quiet hours (I don't remember the exact times, but rarely are they more than 12 hours) when he can recharge the batteries. Make sure the Ice Maker is turned OFF. Make sure Auto Defrost is turned OFF. If that is not sufficient, turn off the refrigerator, do not open the doors, overnight. It should keep things cool/frozen for 10 - 12 hours. Most importantly, don't use high power consumption items anytime when boondocking. This includes, but is not limited to, the microwave, any form of electric heating (coffee maker, hair dryer, air fryer, instapot, etc.) without the generator running. Plan around the non-quiet hours so you can run the generator. This should allow for a fun stay at the Balloon Festival. Note that more experience is gained on how much power is consumed overnight, how long it takes to recharge the batteries, etc., some of the above mentioned prohibited devices can slowly be used, when not on the generator. I hope this help clarify, and not muddy, the situation. -Rick N.

I'm coming in late on this discussion. As others have posted, the battery voltages are within normal range (if anything a bit high, but likely didn't have a full resting time). So, there are a couple steps that should be taken to analyze the problem. First, as Jim posted, the OP need to confirm that the inverter/charger is charging the batteries. The OP stated that he charged them for about 2 hours, but didn't say how they were charged. The assumption is that he used the inverter/charger, but need to confirm this. Also, 2 hours is not going to charge a 50% SOC AGM battery to 100%. That will likely take 6+ hours. Before blaming the inverter or the batteries, a survey of actual load should be made. The residential refrigerator is not going to discharge 8 AGM that are in fairly decent shape in less than 12 hours. But we all know that there are other loads on the batteries, beside the phantom loads. We use lights, water pumps, charge cell phones and tablets/laptops, and, most importantly, watch TV. As an example my entertainment system, sitting idle (all units turned off with the remote, but still plugged in) draws over 8 Amps @ 12 Volts. That may seem like a lot, but in the scheme of things, that is only 800 mA (0.8 Amps) at 120 VAC, where they were designed to operate. And I likely have more "stuff" (Dish Receiver, Smart TV, Smart internet connected A/V Receiver, ROKU, Amazon Fire, to name most). Then there may be internet access devices (MiFi, Starlink, etc) and routers for distribution of "steaming" content. There may be vent fans running since he will be dry camping (unless he is running the generator for A/C). Another thing to consider is a CPAP machine. Mine will run off either 12 VDC or 120 VAC, but it doesn't matter - in either case make sure to turn off or otherwies disable the humidifier. On my CPAP, the humidifier alone is spec'd at 4 Amps @ 120 VAC - that is 40 Amps @ 12 VDC! Oxygen concentrators also consume considerable power that might be overlooked, if applicable. Bottom Line: Some sort of shunt or at a minimum a clamp on ammeter need to be deployed to see just how much the batteries are supplying, not just through the inverter. Final suggestion is to run the generator at breakfast and dinner (yes, I know some meals are provided) for an hour or so, and then before bedtime if needed. That should get the OP through the night. -Rick N.

You will usually find it within 24" of the water pump itself. Follow the Pump wire. -Rick N.

Have you contacted BlueFire? They have been supportive to me, but thru a forum at that time, no over the phone.

I think I misread your original post, and I apologize. Originally, BlueFire was not written to supplier Fire OS. I thought you were using an example of an external GPS working on Fire to suggest that BlueFire could work also. After checking the BlueFire website, I found that indeed BlueFire does have an App that will work on Fire OS 6 and higher, but you have to side-load it or be able to download from the Google Play Store. This is a change from the "BlueFire for Motorhomes" to the "BlueFire Apps". I'm guessing you already knew this. So, I think your question has to do with adding an external GPS "puck" to your Fire tablet in addition running BlueFire. I don't know the answer. But, in the past, BlueFire support was good, and they might be able to tell you. I suspect that it would be difficult to connect both simultaneously via Bluetooth, but in the old days, I ran a GPS "puck" via USB. I don't know if you have that capability. - Rick N

Yes, I do use BlueFire. I don't think it allows for tracking. It gets its speed and distance from the engine ECU. If the data isn't on the ECU or the transmission TCU, it is not displayed by BlueFire. This is not to say that you couldn't have an independent application also running on the tablet/laptop with GPS data (requires a GPS). That secondary application may be able to import data from the BlueFire for use within that application, but that would all be independent of the BlueFire Application. -rick

What does GPS have to do with BlueFire???

To answer your question, YES, a bad battery can cause this. Your charger is set to transition from Absorption to float once a preset voltage is adhesive and the current drops below a preset value. If you have bad batteries this might never happen, or may happen prematurely depending on the battery failure mode. You plan to have the batteries individually checked is good. Be cautious of charging the house back from either the inverter/charger or the alternator in the meantime. If cell(s) are shorted you can quickly boil the battery causing fire or an explosion. - Rick N

BlurFire has nothing to do with GPS (assuming you mean Global Positioning System). The BlurFire app was not written (the software code) to interface with the Amazon Fire Operating System (OS). This is not to easy that it can not be done (code written), but the inventor didn't do so. He apparently chose the big two OS to interface his hardware. - Rick N

Dave, I know you had an 05 Exec, but the 03 -06 Lincoln Navigator don't look like what I as shown below. These are the same as 3 other 05 Exec's I've seen so fluff thought they were OEM. Are these 3rd party aftermarket?

This seems to be made more difficult, or my mind is too simple. I what to clarify that when you measured L1 & L2 "combined" you measured between them, that is one probe on L1 and the Luther prove on L2. And when you did that you measured 220 (240) Volts. And you measured that with the breaker installed. But you didn't have one leg on the power panel. This indicates that either the breaker is not making proper contact (not seated properly) or the breaker (one of the "dual breakers" is bad. My money souk be on the breaker being bad. - Rick N