waterskier_1

I was surprised to read this, so I looked, and the 2002 Windsor (and 2003) don't show the slide J-Box detail, so I went to the same year Dynasty. You are correct. But that is for the CSA coaches. I believe that is Canadian, but I'm not quite sure, but they also show only 15 Amp Breakers in parenthesis to the USA 20 Amp breakers. I looked further, and found another USA J-Box Drawing which show 12 gauge THNN (stranded wire) in the "3/4-inch CORRLOCK FLEXIBLE CONDUIT", Electro-Flex P/Y CL-14, Monaco P/Y 16515. Rocketman3 is correct, you would not want to use Stranded Romex in a flexible situation. Also, the Romex would not physically fit in the Corrlock conduit. I have added 3 Victron Direct cables, a Cat 3 cable and a RG-58 coax cable to my driver's side Corrlock. There was roo in the Corrlock, but I barely had enough room in the hole through the floor. I don't think two more AWG 14 THNN wires would be a problem, but I have not looked inside the J-Boxes themselves (which contain all the 110 VAC wiring). I would NOT downsize the wire without downsizing the breaker it is connected to. The difference in diameter between AWG 12 and AWG 14 should not be an issue. -Rick N.

The inverter outlet designated for the ice maker is actually on a 20 Amp breaker, versus the non-inverted outlet for the heating element. The circuit (wiring and circuit breaker) can easily handle the refrigerator. If there is no shore (or generator) power, you are correct that the inverter will take over and power the refrigerator. I don't know why anyone would do that, since the described refrigerator has propane for use when there is not shore power. In fact, the whole logic for two outlets, one on and one off the inverter is to allow for the automatic switchover built into the refrigerator - when shore power is lost, it will switch to propane. The inverted outlet is for the ice maker, which would not otherwise operate when on propane. I wouldn't worry about drawing 40 amps from a good battery bank. I draw about that much throughout the day, especially if the TV, Surround Sound, Dish Receiver, Router, Cell Booster, WiFi Ranger, and Aquahot are running. Granted I have solar to ease the consumption from the battery, but it does not hurt the inverter, Circuit Breaker, or wiring to do so. I would not add a propane heater to the inverter, any more than I would run a water heater (non Aquahot) on electricity when boondocking. That is why many of our appliances have dual sources for heat. Regarding running the microwave on an inverter, I was designed to do so. Now you do have to be realistic on how much and how long you use it. I will reheat (less than 5 minutes in microwave mode) on the inverter, especially if it's during the day and my batteries are topped off by the solar. I will not use convection mode on the inverter. Most things I cook that way require a pre-heat that often takes longer than my 5-minute rule. But that mostly because I realize that batteries do NOT produce electricity. They only store it, and whatever is used must eventually be replaced. I objective data says that it's okay to use many microwaves on MSW (Modified Sine Wave). The main concern would be the electronics digital display. The magnetron requires a very high voltage, so whatever power comes in is first run through a transformer and then rectified to DC. If you are really concerned, then look at Inverter Microwaves. Like Inverter residential refrigerators, they don't care if MSW or PSW, and they are much more energy efficient since they are not "full power" or "full off" cycling. They actually modulate the power. That said, I have read a bunch of empirical comments that microwaves don't like inverters, but no objective data to back up the claim. All these comments presume that the inverter and the appliance are operating correctly, and the the battery supply is sufficient to supply power to the inverter. -Rick N. -Rick N.

A couple of suggestions. It sounds like you do not have the optional TV that drops out of the ceiling. My previous Dynasty did not either. I built a support similar to what other have suggested, but I did not cut the box down. Mine was over the driver's seat, so it wasn't in the way for normal traffic when parked. But I found the TV to be too far off center, so I added an articulating mount that allowed me to swing the TV closer to the center of the coach. That helped a lot. But I got a stiff neck looking up at the TV. I was in a short (32') coach, so I wasn't more than 10 feet away. I devised a system using drawer slides that allowed the TV to slide down to a normal position when parked and slide up, lock it in place, then move the articulating arm so the TV was back over the old (hole) which became a book and DVD shelf. Just something to consider and improve upon. -Rick N.

After the OP has read the different comments, a would like to hear how he wants to proceed. I can advise on system design features, and provide limited help with the actual physical routing and interconnections, based upon which coaches I've had personal experience. -Rick N.

Ok, rather than guess, I pulled the 2002 Windsor Wiring Diagrams. On the Main Power Panel (non-inverter) all breakers are 20 Amp, except the Block heater and the refrigerator, which are 15 Amp. On the Inverter Sub-Panel all breakers are 20 Amp (save the 30 Amp input from the inverter). Yes, it's interesting that the Ice Maker for the Refrigerator is 20 Amps and the Refrigerator (including the AC heaters) is only 15 Amps. I suspect, but only a guess because it is what I do in my designs, is spec all the wires at 12 gauge so I don't have to have several spools of wire sizes on hand. Now to the question. It appears the OP has a portable 2-burner induction cooktop based on his specs. A true built-in induction cooktop is often 220 Volt as it has much more powerful elements. As others have said, it is often counterproductive to run heating devices for long periods of time (say, greater than 30 minutes) of batteries. We must remember that batteries do not PRODUCE power, but only store it. They must be refilled by some other source. That said, without knowing what the OP has for battery storage and solar or other restrictions (restrictions on when the generator may be used), along with the inverter capabilities, we shouldn't say no. I would strongly advise against it, if I were asked. Now, to answer the OP's question, I need more information. Where, specifically, are the Power (Main & Inverter Sub-) Panels located. If in the back closet, it is often accessible from the basement (really that would be the engine compartment that far back). Also of importance, is where the cabinet you plan on placing the cooktop lives - in a slide-out? I just got through running cables through the flex-accordion-tray from the basement, to the slide floor, then after pulling all the cabinet bottoms out, thru the cabinets to where I needed it. This was in the Dining Flat Slide on my Exec. I haven't look, but suspect it is similar, or easier on the kitchen slide, since it's not a flat floor slide. In my case I was running coax cable and CAT 6 ethernet cable, so protecting it was not as much an issue as 110 VAC Romex would be. I think if it were me, I'd have to consider violating the NEC (yes Tom, it doesn't apply to RVs, but is still a good guide to electrical safety), and use romex in conduit. Either PVC (non-metallic electrical conduit to be more exact) or, if it is easier (but more expensive) that waterproof flex conduit. Both are designed for only single strand (not multiple strands in a sheath) cable. But single strand if much harder (my opinion) to use in retrofit applications. You may be able to fish the Romex through the basement ceiling, but getting from the engine compartment to the basement (in front of the drive axle) is often difficult, and then finding room through the foam sealant into those chases can be a problem. There are at least two chases, one on each side of the coach. In addition to wires (cables) there are hydraulic hoses (for the power steering) and coolant hoses (for the dash heater) and A/C hoses (for the dash A/C) and others. It can be done, but it is a difficult endeavor. Have you done the simple things, like look for an outlet that might be convenient nearby that you could tap into? If you were to implement the suggestion of using the microwave circuit, I would strongly suggest you install a double throw switch such that you could select only one or the other. Granted the 20 Amp Microwave breaker should protect the circuit wiring, but it is bad engineering practice to "design to violate". I had such a switch in one of my older coaches which was only 30 Amp. It would switch between the rear A/C and the microwave. If you provide more details, I may be able to provide more specific advise. -Rick N.

Martin, unfortunately this is a destructive test. I recommend it performing this final test the following morning. 😁

My final test is an egg in the frying pan. - Rick N

I'd like to know what you mean by "... all I really want is TV". Do you mean just Over the Air (OTA) TV, like you would get with an antenna, when within range of the TV station? If so, you likely have a good start to one of the best OTA antennas on your roof already - the Winegard Sensor (aka "Batwing") directional antenna. With the advent of HDTV, many of the old TV stations on VHF changed to UHF. Winegard makes an add on for the Sensor antenna that enhances the UHF signal band. With that addition, you have one of the best RV OTA antennas. There are some that are Omni-directional, so you don't need to aim (rotate) the antenna, but they don't provide as much signal strength in fringe areas. Now if by TV, you are meaning satellite based (Dish Network or Direct TV), you will likely have to replace the InMotion antenna (dish) and receiver, along with purchasing a subscription for their service. If you already have one of these services at your home, you can likely take the receiver and use the same subscription, or add the coach as an additional receiver, but you will still need to replace the InMotion dish with one that works for Dish Network or Direct TV. The third option is "streaming". This refers to using the internet, and either a smart TV or some other device like Roku, Amazon Fire, etc. to connect the TV to the internet. Then you may need to subscribe to a "streaming service" which provides the channels you can watch. There are many of these subscription services, at varying cost available (Netflix, Amazon Prime, Hulu, Paramount Plus, etc.). All this require a good internet connection. And a fast one if you want to watch HDTV quality. These use considerable amounts of data. So, you will also need to purchase some sort of internet service, which can be satellite based (Starlink) or MiFi/WiFi from a cellular provider (hot spot), or even you home or RV Park WiFi system, although the later isn't really designed for streaming, more for email, and you may be banned from it if you consume large quantities of data streaming. Once you have made a decision on which (or which combinations - I have all three) of "TV" you are considering, we might be able to provide better guidance. -Rick N.

Here is a pic of mine, taken from the lower back, looking up. The smaller round gauge at the bottom is the Front Air Pressure Gauge, for reference. As Paul and Frank posted, all the cables are the same color code and can be connected to any of the associated connectors. I would go by which looks most likely to have been connected before based upon length, position, etc. Hope this helps. -Rick N.

Dennis, I didn't take mine apart that far; I only removed the Front Air Pressure Gauge. I can tell you that it doesn't make any difference between connector E & F (they can be interchanged, and connector G & H (they also can be interchanged. I'll see if I can get a pic from under (behind) my dash tomorrow to see if I can help with the two connectors at "C" and the two connectors at "D". -Rick N.

Dennis, I am late replying. Life got in the way. I tried the capacitors, and it was still a no-go. Even though replacing those seems to fix a lot of the problems, it didn't mine. So I ordered the stepper motor. It came in yesterday, and I unsoldered the old one, and soldered in the new one. I think this was easier, likely because I have a whole lot more experience replacing "through the hole" components than I do surface mount. The surface mount capacitors where difficult to hold in position (they liked move when I touched them with my soldering iron). The stepper-motor was a bit of a challenge, but nothing I haven't done before, because you have to get four through the board leads unsoldered and cleaned enough to simultaneously pull through the holes remove the motor. My solder sucker worked well for this. Soldering in the new stepper motor was easy. I just tested it and it works! Yay, one more item of the check list. I want to thank Paul Whittle for his phone assistance and encouragement. He also repairs these, along with other electronics that are no longer available. You might talk with him if you don't feel up to the task. I was planning on shipping my gauge to him tomorrow if my repairs didn't work. -Rick N.

I bought one 10 years ago and never used it. I too read about paint damage, but the real kicker was it weighed over 70 pounds! You have to have a better plan than carrying it up the ladder. Even after you get up on the roof, you have to unroll it over A/C covers, refrigerator covers, roof vents, antennas, and solar panels without falling off. I ended up selling mine for half what I paid for it and never took it out of the box. - Rick N

Bit of clarification. The 10K and 12.5K are similar to 40 Amp and 50K pedestals as Tom points out. Running the generator for an hour or so has more to do with the engine than the generator portion. Granted you need to load the generator portion to load the engine. I sometimes run mine in the morning, depending on what I'm cooking. I can make coffee off the inverter, but not if i'm running the electric griddle and/or toaster. Even though I have 1400 Watts of solar, I still use this time to start charging the batteries, often before the solar starts producing. So, if your batteries need to be charged, just let the genny run for an hour even though it doesn't take that long to make coffee. I can run the microwave off the inverter too, but choose to only if it's less than 5 minutes, and not in convection mode. You have to replace the power you removed, so I run the generator if I'm baking. It's usually just a minute or so to start defrost dinner I forgot to take out of the freezer. I am confused by your statement regarding 4 cups, 4 or 5 times. Are you making coffee by the cup? or are you making 16-20 cups of coffee? In either case, what I did was purchase a good glass insulated carafe, similar to what pancake houses use. I started doing this when I was totally non-electric, so I used a percolator coffee pot on the stove, but only had 2 burners so once it was make, I poured it in the carafe, to free up the burner. It was still quite warm the next morning (what I didn't drink the previous day). Now, I still do that, instead of leaving the coffee maker on to keep the pot warm. You might consider this. -Rick N.

I think he is using that abbreviation for Inverter/Charger based on the Aims Model number. I had to do a Google search to determine what he was talking about. -Rick N.

I think some have a misinterpretation of isolated grounds. Maybe they could tell us what they mean?

Your statements are are mostly correct. But there is no reason to attempt to isolate the negative battery terminal from the chassis, because there is a huge direct short (called a shunt) between the two. The purpose for Isolated chargers is for when you have isolated systems - that is the "grounds" of one system intentionally do not connect to the grounds of a second system. In the Victron Class, they use the example of a towed vehicle where you don't want the two chassis to be electrically connected. I personally don't understand why you would want that, I intentionally make sure all trailers and grounds are the same. Be that as it may, in the case of our Monaco coaches, the Chassis Ground is intentionally electrically connected to the House Ground. The grounds are the same. Granted, for electron counting purposes to generate the SOC, a shunt which is just a piece of metal, shaved to have a specific know resistance, is connected between them. But for galvanic isolation is a term I have only heard used with respect to marine environments (where Victron started and has it's main business). Who did you contact at Victron? I suspect they either misunderstood your were ill informed. Comparing your shunt SOC (which is a measure of current flowing (electrons) into and out of whatever the shunt is connected to then mathematically computed by some sort of device (like a Cebro GX) to display SOC. The calibration of the shunt is important. If the exact battery capacity (Amp-Hours) is not input correctly, then the SOC will be off. It is quite possible that the internal battery BMS has a slightly different SOC programmed into it. Also, if you start paralleling LiFePO4 batteries, the SOC of each battery will be different, since it is unlikely the cells are exactly the same. These differences are quite small, but could be what you saw. It is also possible that the Renogy (I deal Victron only so can't say) might have a different algorithm than Victron, or the battery capacity might have been slightly different. In any case, the isolated vs non-isolated charges didn't likely cause any difference. I have designed many of Victron systems, but only a few with DC-DC chargers, but never found a problem. -Rick N. Second Question: Okay. I don't know anything about Renogy, so don't know what they display. I was thinking of integration like Victron does where you can see on a single screen, the inputs and outputs of the Shore Power, Inverter, Battery Charger, Solar, AC Loads, and DC Loads. All the Victron DC-DC chargers allow you to see via Bluetooth is data related to that charger only. It doesn't send that data anywhere, nor can it be retrieved for use (other than display). Third Question: Part 1. You are correct, I would think any ones DC-DC charger would be able to be configured to charge the target battery. You are also correct that Integration is not needed. Many are perfectly fine with a Magnum Inverter, with it's own display, doing it's own thing, without knowledge of solar MPPT controllers on the system, which you can view with an individual BT app, but do their thing without knowing what the inverter is doing. And then having a separate Shunt and Display for SOC, which neither the inverter or the MPPT controllers (or the DC-DC Charger) knows anything about. For example, you can't set your Auto Gen Start (AGS) on a Magnum inverter to start/stop on an SOC value because, even if you added a shunt to the system, the Magnum inverter can't see it. Part 2. I'm not sure what the response here. My intention was to notify that just last week Victron has released a new DC-DC Charger which is the first in its line of DC-DC Charges to integrate (that is to connect to a Cebro or other GX device) such that you can now see it on the Main Victron screen, see it's performance, and potentially control it's operation in conjunction with connected MPPT controllers and shunt provided SOC. Again, this is not needed for things to work, and if you didn't already have a fully integrated Victron system, might be of little value other than it's higher current rating. I'm not posting this to criticize you, but instead to let others know some of the sometimes more subtle aspects of designing a complete electrical system and my experience designing around Victron components. -Rick N.

Alternator capacity, while important, should not be an issue if it wasn't an issue with the original Isolator (IRD or BIRD, Big Boy or Trombetta). The original Isolator did not limit charging, but just connected both batteries together at the same time. Now it is true that LiFePO4 batteries have a much lower internal resistance, which means they can draw current much faster than Lead Acid batteries. At that is the problem with connecting them together. Other than the extreme charge current, the alternator should be able to supply the requirements of the 12 volt side and charge the batteries, as long as the current is limited (and, ideally, the voltage is controlled such that you don't charge at 14.2-14.4 volts the alternator puts out all day long (while driving). Can you elaborate on your statement that ONLY option is isolated DC to DC charger if using LiFePO4 batteries? I can't see the logic. Both systems already share the same ground. I will grant you that the LiFePO4 bank may have a shunt between the battery bank negative terminal and the physical ground (chassis) but that only serves to measure the electron flow. I am not aware of any "integration with your iOS or Android devices" of the referenced Victron products. They are only Bluetooth (BT) as far as I know. I may not be aware of iOS or Android application that integrate inverters, MPPT controllers, batteries, and DC-DC converters, so please enlighten me (us). If the OP already has Victron Products; Inverter-MultiPlus, MPPT Solar Controller and Victron Shunt along with a GX device (e.g. Cebro or CCGX) then and wishes to integrate all with a DC-DC controller, the only option I am aware of is the newly announced "Smart Buck-Boost 50A (700W) non-isolated DC-DC Charger 12/12-50". This DC-DC Charger (Controller) has VE.direct buss that will integrate with other Victron products and will display the actual charger output on the GX device. Otherwise, with other Victron products, you have to use BT to see this. The net current (inflow from the DC-DC Charger and outflow to coach at the battery shut is the only value shown. For most, this is sufficient. -Rick N.

I don't think the Nason switch would keep the control panel from lighting up. Have you confirmed the connections to the back of the panel are secure? I had that problem with my Dynasty where the control panel was mounted horizontally in the driver's left side panel. Gravity and vibration would slowly cause the connector to come partially disconnected. -Rick N.

Just thinking out loud here, which may inspire someone to a solution. The water tank pick-up tube extends almost all the way to the bottom of the tank, typically. The weight of the water (head pressure) should not be significant to stop the pump. I'm leaning to thinking there is a problem with the pickup tube in the tank. If it compromised, like maybe a crack, which would allow air to enter after the water got below a certain level, the pump would start drawing air with the water and cause a similar symptom to that which you describe. If the "crack" was vertical, starting from the level you notice the pump not working correctly, and extends downward, the lower the water level, the more of the crack exposed, and the more air would be sucked with the water, reducing flow and pressure. I have never seen the actual construction of the pickup tube so I don't know if this hypothesis could even happen. I've never even had occasion to look at how the pickup tube is connected to the outside world. I know some fuel tanks you can remove the pickup tube from the tank. Is this possible on the water tank? I know clearance would be a problem. What I'm thinking is if you could insert a new tube, even temporarily, into the tank and check operation of the water system, that may help isolate the problem. I can't see how a leak in lines outside the tank would be affected by water level. -Rick N.

The See Vision is an option that adds an interior camera (over the driver's seat) and controls accessed through the Aladdin system which allows you to view any of the four camera (backup, right and left side view on the mirrors, and interior) at any time. You can lock on any camera (although when driving, the turn signals or reverse switch override the selection) or set them up to rotate between all four. The "idea" was you could see what was going on around you (and, if in bed) inside the front area of the coach. It is operated from either the front dash Aladdin or the rear bedroom Aladdin. I don't the "Flip down exterior entertainment center" but my guess it is located in one of the passenger side bays (basement compartments). It may be mounted to the ceiling, and flip down from there for use. The optional solar panel was 100 Watt, and went to a solar controller that was connected to both the house and chassis (low output). It was basically enough to maintain the supplied Lead Acid batteries. According to the 2005 Dynasty Owners Manual, the controller is located "in the large pass-through bay". I wonder is the use of "inverter" in conjunction with the solar is really the "controller"? The price would indicate only a solar panel and controller. The Dynasty came with a 2000 Watt inverter. My Executive came with a 3000 Watt inverter. Neither manual states whether they were Modified Sine Wave (MSW) or Pure Sine Wave (PSW). Mine has been replaced with a PSW so I'm guessing they were MSW. Do you have your Owners Manual? It can be downloaded from https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/ _Rick N.

How did CoachNet pay four you HWH bill? Do they offer an extended warranty with their premium product? - Rick N

I have had AAA for over 30 years. I had the RV +++ or whatever the call the top tier coverage. The first time was when I was run off the road. The State Patrol called the towing company and they sent two Class 8 tow trucks. Since the operation was just to get me out of a ditch, and I was on so sever a slope that I had to crawl out the drivers window because the door was hitting the ground. Everyone was amazed it did not roll. On truck was connected just to keep me from rolling down the ditch, while the other pulled me out. The damage was minimal (as far as driving) and I was NOT towed, but drove to the Towing companies lot where I purchased and rigged a turn signal to replace the damaged one. This company did not accept AAA, nor was AAA called (there was no cell phone service, and the State Patrol Officer had to drive 4 miles just to get radio contact. I presented the bill to AAA and denied it since there was no Towing. It was considered "Recovery" which they don't cover, unless a tow in also required. The second time was to inflate a tire that had gone flat and the bead had come off the rim. AAA said they would have to tow it to a tire store. They called back and said the only Class 8 Tow truck was 250 miles away, and wouldn't be available for 3 days. I told them that all it needed was a mobile tire repair guy but they told me they don't have anyone that can do that under contract. Now this was in Denver, CO, not some tiny town 100's miles from civilization. I called a tow company, and the came, removed the inner dual, reseated the tire, inflated, and reinstalled for about $100. I presented the bill to AAA who declined it saying I didn't get prior approval. After escalating to higher management, they finally paid and I quit the expensive RV +++ towing. I still have the basic AAA for my other vehicles, and am reasonably happy with their service on cars. I switched to FMCA, but have yet to use it. I got a notice for renewal (I've had it for 5 -6 years) and tried to find out my renewal date. FMCA couldn't help. They have nothing to do with the Roadside Assist other than to advertise and get a discount (?) for members. It's more like their tire purchase program. I'm not happy with the lack of website (it goes by another name - I don't remember - who farms out insurance to lots of groups). I'll be seriously considering CoachNET when this policy expires (next year - they wanted me to renew 6-months early). Others experience may vary. I think AAA in general is okay, but they don't have contracts with many Class 8 Towing facilities. Only 3 within 5-miles of Denver. -Rick N.

Take note that you Diplomat's 8K generator does not output 220 VAC. You have to go to the 10KW or 12.5KW to get real 220 VAC (split-phase). So, if you did this mod, you would not be able to operate the dryer on your generator. Also, as Dennis points out, if you are contemplating at 50 Amp, 220 VAC dryer (typical residential dryer) it would require the 12.5KW generator. -Rick N.

Tom, you are correct regarding the differences in model years for the Windsor. I found the following based on the Wiring Diagrams I have which matches your post. Windsors in 2000 had Single Input/Single Output (SI/SO) Inverters. 2000+ Dynasties (Not including REV products which I have no information or experience) had Dual Input/Dual Output (DI/DO) inverters. Starting in 2001 the Windsors had DI/DO inverters upt ot somewhere around 2005. Then in 2006, the Windsors went back to SI/SO, the same as Camelots. The Inverter Subpanel technically was not (is not) contingent on Dual Output Inverters. I believe it was done as Monaco incorporated upgrades. You certainly could (and I have redesigned coaches that do) have an Inverter Subpanel with only a Single Output Inverter. The subpanel GFCI(s) - for only those circuits that required CFCI - are indeed GFCI BREAKERS, not Outlets. Regarding your recommendation of Split-Lugs. NEC allows use for a maximum of TWO wires. AWG 10 is normally connected with the appropriate sized (red winged) Wire Nut which will accommodate up to three AWG 10 conductors. I personally recommend and all my designs suggest a smaller (typically 4 Circuit Breaker) sized breaker box. I have the box at the output of the inverter and remove the "Outlet String" romex from the associated Inverter Output. I insert a new piece of AWG 10 from that Inverter Output into the input of the newly added breaker box. I put two 20 Amp breakers in the box (I use a 4-breaker box so I have more room for wiring-personal preference, not requirement) connected to the Romex from the inverter. I then wire the previously connected "Outlet String" to one of the 20 Amp breakers. If you carefully choose where you put this new breaker box (some might call a mini Inverter Subpanel) you won't have to splice - the "Outlet String" would reach. Then I wire the new circuit (in this case, the Bedroom Outlets) to the other 20 Amp breaker. I leave the Microwave circuit alone. The inverter doesn't care how many breakers or outlets you add - or how you name them. It only cares that you not exceed the 30 Amp output circuit breaker rating. Therefore, using the microwave output to supply the new circuit isn't necessary. Again, I stress that the OWNER will be responsible for proper Energy Management of the Inverter (same is he is now). If you add too much at the same time, something is going to trip a breaker. The only re-routing of wiring in this case is from the new circuit to the 20 Amp breaker in the new subpanel. You don't have to rewire the microwave circuit. You may not even have to get into the Main Power Panel (other than to disable the bedroom circuit as it will be abandoned). All that is necessary is to find the existing bedroom outlet circuit in question, and possibly put a Junction Box to tie that circuit to a new run of romex. That last sentence is the majority of the effort, and different for every coach model and year. From my experience, and from the experiences of others I have talked to who have actually re-wired their coach so based on empirical data, not theoretical suppositions, most all the wiring in the coach itself (not to include chassis wiring) is in the roof. Typically this is within 6 inches of the side (so be careful if you are drilling in this area). It then runs from the roof (ceiling) either down the wall to where it needs to go, or across the ceiling to where it needs to go. EXCEPTION: If the outlet or switch or whatever is contained within a slide room, it is wired from the basement, under the slide and up through the floor of the slide, then across the floor (under the cabinets) to where it's needed and then up the wall. I have never seen or heard of a slide room where the electrical wiring is run from the top or the sides into the slide room. So, in the OPs case, are the outlets you wish to connect in a slide or are they in a fixed wall/cabinet in the bedroom. That will be the clue as to how the wires were originally run. If through the ceiling, many have opted to intercept them at the main power panel. They have added new Romex or conduit, their preference, to the Power panel, and connected the wires removed from the breaker to the new romex inside the main power panel. Then they typically run the conduit down, through the floor and ultimately over to the new Inverter subpanel. Most of my efforts have been in the design phase, and I have worked with owners who know electrical and mechanical systems, and they perform the actual running and connecting of the wires, based on their coach. -Rick N.

Is is a page from the 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams that show how Monaco intended it to be wired - no guarantee it was actually wired this way, but certainly a good starting point. 2006 Diplomat AC Wiring.pdf