waterskier_1

The likely reason you damaged you electric blanket is the MSW inverter output didn't play well with the elections in the thermostat control. - Rick N

Theorically there is nothing wrong with this, other than it might make the coach less sellable. Practically, it seems it would be a daunting process to rewire. From your description, I'm guessing your coach doesn't have an Inverter Sub-panel. This means you solo have to fish the wires from the inverter, oops, first you need to install a Junction Box to add more wire to the microwave wires, then fish them back to the main power panel. Then another Junction Box to extend the bedroom outlets so they can be fished up to the inverter. - Rick N

Slight correction. The Aquahot does have to be on, and heating, but it doesn't necessarily need to be on diesel. Depending on the temperature, and the Aquahot, the electric element(s) may be enough. Also, the thermostat pictured is the corresponding thermostat, and controls the Zone (usually Zone 2), no matter how the inside thermostats are set. At least on my Aquahot 600D. Even if the Aquahot is turned OFF, when that basement thermostat gets below the set point, it will tell the Aquahot to start up the zone pump and turn on the corresponding cozy fan. I found this when working on something in the bay next to the Aquahot, and heard the fan running. I have confirmed this operation with Aquahot (again, at least for my 600D, although the tech didn't seem to differentiate models). Since I often leave my coach stored in cold Colorado weather, I have installed a switch inline with that thermostat so it won't signal the Aquahot. Just have to remember to flip it when you do want basement heat. -Rick N.

I removed the old transfer switch, mounted the new transfer switch in its place, and then mounted the old transfer switch where the output wires that connect to the main breakers (main power panel) could reach. Then made jumpers from the new transfer switch output to the old transfer switch, and then bypassed the contactors in the old transfer switch so that they were always connected to the the input (shore power) and were never disconnected. Then used the electronics to feed the Aladdin as it had previously. Of course, all this depends upon having room to mount both transfer switches. -Rick N.

I looked it up, but it is not clear how the hose connecter will both fit inside 4" and at the same time fit over the existing dump valve. Do they have an adapter that fits on the dump valves to reduce it to a smaller connector on the hose?

Note that the connectors are larger, and while the hose may fit, the connectors on each end won't. Before the macerater, I had to remove one end to store. - Rick N

My Wiring Diagram Documents only go back to 1996, I owned a 1997 Dynasty, so I know what I speak. I am attaching 1996 and 1998 Dynasty 110 VAC Wiring Distribution Diagrams clearly showing the Block Heater on the Inverter. I can't answer why - only state the facts. If you want the actual wiring circuitry as to how this was accomplished, blow up the circuit I have circled in the 1996 drawing. Back then, the Shore Power (Generator) did NOT go through the inverter, and it didn't have an internal transfer switch like you are thinking of. The Shore Power was relay switched between the Inverter and Shore in a separate device (the one I mentioned above. By 2002, the Dynasty and above had gone to the circuitry you are thinking about, with a enable switch on the dash, an not powered by the inverter. I don't have 2001 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams so I can't say when the changed occurred other than it was in either 2000 or 2001. Your math is correct regarding the amount of pass-through current, IF the shore power went through the inverter - I didn't as explained above. Therefore, the full 50 Amps was available, times 2 since it's a 220 device. When the inverter is power those outlets that it's connected to, if it was a 2000 Watt inverter (I think mine was 2500, but not sure) you would be limited to 2000 Watts, which indeed is 16.7 volts if output is 120 VAC. Not sure that matters in this conversation. Now, the 90 Amps is at 12.5 VDC which is 1125 Watts. In fact, a 2000 Watt Inverter could draw 160 Amps at maximum load. I think (but am not sure, and I don't have that coach anymore) the inverter 12 VDC input was fused at 200 Amps, but that doesn't have anything to do with inverter capability. Now the Battery Charger capability has nothing to do with the inverter capability. Yes, you are correct that a 2000 Watt Inverter's Battery Charging capability may be 100 Amps at max charging. But, again, those are two distinctly separate devices in one box we conventionally call the inverter. But neither depends upon the other. In fact, my 3000 Watt Victron only has 125 or 150 Amp battery charger. If charger were a factor in Inverter capacity, that would mean it had less than 2000 Watts (150 x 12.5 = 1875 Watts). Your are correct that "today" all Monaco coaches' Block Heaters are only on Shore or Gen power. But that wasn't the case for Monaco "Legacy" coaches.

Good show. I have not looked up the 40100, but the big difference between the 40250 and others is not just the current (the donuts you described) and voltage, but that this data needs to be put on a serial buss that the Aladdin can access. I have a different setup, with all the monitoring components in a separate box, that goes to what Aladdin calls the ACI (AC Interface). I believe, but am not sure, that interface is mounted on the circuit card. Another option would have been to install the new transfer switch, feeding the existing transfer switch, but the transfer function bypassed such that the input was hardwired to the output, and use the old transfer switch just for monitoring purposes. This might be easier for less skilled owners or tech to accomplish. Of course, this would require real estate (space) nearby for the new transfer switch, and likely additional 6 gauge wires to interconnect, and those are not easy to manipulate. -Rick N.

I agree with Ivan, you either have a huge draw on the inverter, or the house batteries are bad and can't hold a charge, even though they seem to be taking one. The battery charger is doing what I would expect given the voltages your posted. You might go so far, if you are comfortable, of disconnect the AC OUTPUT of the inverter. Then turn on the inverter and see if it behaves the same, or if it stays at 12.5 or so for a while. If it does, then you know you have a problem in what is connected to the inverter. You have something drawing huge loads, or possibly shorted wires. I had a similar, but not as severe, situation when I got my first Monaco Dynasty. I never used the inverter because it would peg the current out at about 100 Amps (based on light status). Luckily another Monacoer was at the Quartzsite Monaco camp, and had the same unit. In 1997 Dynasty, every out was on the inverter. Including the block heater, which didn't have a switch back then. You turned it on by plugging it in. Well, this was in January, and I had the block heater plugged in before I left Colorado. It didn't dawn on me that it would run off batteries (via the inverter), but Jim realized the problem right away. So, you might have something you don't remember or realize is being powered by the inverter. Good luck. -Rick N.

I went to my normal trusted review sites, and none have reviewed Goldenmate. I looked at other reviews, but few were "technical". A couple things I found, is that it has a lower capability BMS. For example, it can only be charged at 50 Amps, Maximum. That not a real problem. But there are conflicting reports on temperature shutdown. Some say it has a temp sensor, but it seems (I can't verify) that it may only work on high temps. Being from Colorado, when I built my batteries, I made sure the BMS I selected had full cold temp sensing and shutdown, both on charging and discharging. If you never, ever expect the battery to be exposed to below 32°F (0°C) then this may not be a concern. Note that low temperature can actually destroy LiFePO4 batteries (no, they don't explode, they just quit working). It's rated at Max discharge rate of 100 Amps, which yields a max power of 1250 Watts. Some reviewer were pleased that they were able to draw as much as 150 Amps out of the battery, but, to me, that just shows the BMS has failed to shut it down on Over Current discharge - not good. Makes me wonder if the other parameters are actually protected by this battery. One of the main deficiencies of this battery is there is no way to "see" what is going on within the battery box. Remember, a battery is simply a collection of individual cells, interconnects, and a controller we call a BMS (Battery Management System). Higher end batteries also incorporate a USB or Bluetooth or both, connection which allows you to view the actual cells, how they are balanced, the actual current, the depth of discharge, etc. This is often built into the BMS circuit board. In some cases, you can actually program parameters of the cells and control limits via this connection (although I've never seen a commercially produced battery that allows the user to make any changes). If you are the type that like to monitor your systems, this is a big deal. On the other hand, if you don't care about how things work, just that they do, then this might not be a deal breaker. I think you'll find you'll need two of these, connected in parallel, to provide enough to run your inverter at nominal load. I'm not talking how long, but that 1250 watts out of the battery is more like 1100 watts out of the inverter after all the losses and inefficiencies (educated guess) are accounted for. This will not run your microwave, even though most don't suggest running the microwave off the inverter. My point is if you have a 2500 - 3000 Watt Inverter, or even just a 2000 Watt, you'll want batteries that will allow it to operate at it's rated output, even if you never intend to use it a full power. When researching this, I was amazed to find so many lower priced LiFePO4 batteries. There were several on Amazon for just under $200 (100 A-Hr). One of these is almost the same as 4 Trojan T-105 6-volt batteries, which yield a rated 225 A-Hr at 12 Volts, but you can only use about one-half that if you want maximum life (112.5 A-Hr). As of today, the best price on T-105 (some consider the "gold standard" of Flooded Lead Acid batteries) is $151.49. So four would be $605.06 or $2.69 per usable Amp Hourr. As of today the Goldenmate is $228.99 on Amazon. So two of these would be $457.98 or $2.29 per usable Amp Hour. While the weigh difference is not important to us, since the coach has already been designed and built to handle the FLA batteries, and dropping 50% of the battery weight is negligible compared to the total weight of the coach, there are a couple other considerations. First, even if this low-priced LiFePO4 doesn't last it's rated 8,000 life cycles, it will likely last longer then FLA batteries. But I can guarantee that it will charge much faster. This feature alone makes LiFePO4 batteries the choice for dry-camping (boondocking). Your generator run time will be cut in less than one-half due to the fast charging that LiFePO4 batteries can accept that would boil and destroy FLA unless carefully monitored. It also allows for faster charging from solar too. This is because they can take full rated charge (or the max charge you have available) right up to 99% (SOC). The FLA, AGM, and such stop full current and taper off over many hours to max. I can't say these Goldenmate are any better or worse than others in the $200 - $250 price range, but, from the limited reviews I've found, I'd certainly say there were likely worth the price. -Rick N. Personally, I am a convert, a believer that LiFePO4 should be considered by all, no matter if you are a boondocker or simply travel "power post to power post". But there are a couple caveats. First, you need to check that your current inverter/charger can be set to charge LiFePO4 batteries. If it can't, that need serious consideration. Also, you need to be aware that it is inadvisable to charge LiFePO4 from engine alternators. It can accept charging current so high that it can burn out an alternator. So, often a DC-DC charger is needed. Also, the charging parameters set for LiFePO4 batteries is not ideal for charging the chassis battery. So, you need to make changes there too. But, as I mentioned above, if you current inverter/charger can be set to charge LiFePO4 batteries (or close, as AGM2 in the Magnum is very close). Also, CC/CV (Constant Current/Constant Voltage) is what LiFePO4 batteries need (the LiFePO4 setting is just a custom setting of CC/CV) so if your inverter has CC/CV, you are good to go. Given this, and the fact that LiFePO4 batteries can be less expensive than FLA or AGM, that is no longer a valid argument against LiFePO4. As an aside, I mention LiFePO4 which is the designation (and chemical formula) for Lithium Lead Phosphate which is totally different from LI (Lithium Ion) batteries, which are the ones you have read about exploding or catching fire (cell phone, laptop and Tesla). LiFePO4 are very safe and won't explode even in a crash. -Rick N.

There would be no smoke or other ill effects if the four 12 volt batteries were connected in parallel. Nooooo. If connected four 100 A-Hr AGM (or any other chemistry batteries) in SERIES, you would still end up with 100 A-Hrs, but it would be 48 VOLTS!! Now you really would see the smoke Myron mentioned in his post. Clearly, the batteries are NOT connected in Series. Now, if you connected the four 100 A-Hr batteries in PARALLEL, you would still have the 12 Volts, but since each battery is contributing 100 A-Hrs to the total "system", you would have 400 A-Hrs. I have seen this done, but it is rare. In fact, back in college, we were taught that it was a poor design to install batteries in parallel, since the internal resistance of each battery varies (maybe more 50 years ago) and one battery would discharge to the level of the poorest battery. Series does not have this problem. Of course, that assumed we could spec a battery with the required current and voltage requirements need for the design, and didn't have to "make do" with what was available "off the shelf" meaning not custom designed. In any case, as long as the batteries were connected in any combination that yields 12 volts, no smoke. Regarding the Maximum output of a battery charger (Magnum or otherwise) that is the Maximum Current that the Battery Charger can deliver. The batteries can't suck or draw more current (combined with other DC loads) that that maximum. So, if I have 50,000 A-Hr batteries that need charging, it will not hurt the charger, it just may take over a year, assuming no further discharge. Nothing is hurt or damaged. Now, that is not true if we are speaking voltage. It must be the proper voltage for the system. If readers think it necessary for more details of Circuits 101, I think it best to start another post. -Rick N.

I apologize, but dinner is ready, and I only read your original post. But if your inverter says "inverting" then it is not seeing 110 VAC on its input. Since you say it works while on generator, but not shore power, it appears that the leg of the 220 that the inverter is on is bad. That can be anywhere from the power pedestal to the transfer switch. Easiest to check that you have 220 VAC at the main power panel 50 Amp circuit breaker, and go from there. I'll try and get to all the other responses after dinner and see where you are sorting this out. -Rick N.

Seems like that is a silly response from them. If you brought the air bags back up, you would likely no longer be supported by the jacks. It would totally defeat the purpose of leveling. -Rick

This reminded me I could just use one of my Scuba Tanks. They hold between 3000 - 4200 PSI. I know some plumbers (who are also Scuba divers) that use these tank to run their air tools. -Rick N.

Tom, he does have a BIRD, if you can trust the 2008 Knight Owners Manual, Page 173. -Rick N.

I just downloaded and reviewed your manual. You don't specifically ask, but you MUST extend/retract the slide-out room(s) (slides) with the jacks retracted and the motorhome supported by the air suspension (air bags). Do not operate with the air bags deflated. So, the first step would be to find a level spot to park, engage the parking brake, do a walk-around to make sure that the slides will not hit anything and that the utilities are okay. Some people hook up their utilities next, but that can be done at any time - the order of connecting utilities is not an issue. After the walk-around, make sure the engine is off, parking brake engaged, maybe open a window so extending the slides does not create a vacuum, remove any slide locks, and then extend the slides (taken from page 104 of the 2009 Knight Owners Manual). The leveling procedure is different from other Monaco's. It requires the Ignition switch ON and the engine running, transmission in Neutral, and Park brake applied. Lower the air suspension by stepping on the brake several times to get the air pressure below 60 PSI. With the ignition on, push and hold the AIr Dump switch to lower the Air Suspension. Then follow the procedure begining on page 219 of the Owners Manual to either Automatically Level or Manual Level the coach. To retract, Park Brake ON, Trans in Neutral, Engine Running, turn on Control Pad, Push RETRACT ALL JACKS button, allow all jacks to return to full retract, purs the ON/OFF button on the control pad to turn the leveling system Off. Then allow the coach to build up air pressure, to full ride height (allow to build to 120 PSI to ensure suspension if at ride height). Then make sure the ignition is OFF, Park Brake still set, Jacks fully retracted, and coach full supported by air suspension (air bags). Then retract the slides and install Slide Locks, if applicable. You will not bring the air pressure back up to 120 PSI until you have retracted the jacks. Hope this answers your question. -Rick N.

I have used something similar for my Jeep tires (32") but they only require about 35 PSI (less when off-roading). It will take a couple minutes, I didn't time it, to go from 25 PSI to 35PSI on those jeep tires, which have less volume, and far less pressure than your coach tires (if that's what you are looking to use it for). It will be interesting to see if you can take a coach tire from say, 70 PSI up to 110 PSI on a single battery charge, and how long it will take. I gave up on my Viair, and bought a 110 VAC compressor with small pancake tank because I didn't want to wait 30 minutes to fill my tires. -Rick N.

Tom, this is an interesting conversation, but I don't think the OP was asking how batteries are work, or even considered replacing them. But I must address a couple things that could be misleading or superseded by technology. First, all the charts and voltage to SOC graphs were developed in the lab using what was considered sophisticated equipment. That equipment is now available to all of us at a very reasonable price. Since we all didn't have common place Battery Monitors 20 -25 years ago, the manufacturers ran test and noted the voltage when the SOC was at different values. The voltage does not determine the SOC. Indeed, voltage has absolutely nothing to do with the SOC of a battery. But everyone wanted to know "how much battery power" they had. Since voltmeters were common, the manufactures generated graphs and charts that interpolated SOC to voltage, for a specific battery. The only reason you need to consider voltage in SOC is that is used to determine Battery Capacity. You have partially described that process of discharging at a fixed known rate (Amps) until the battery reaches the voltage the manufacturer defines as "fully discharged". By maintaining that constant current, over the whole discharge time (not easy as many load are resistive, and as the voltage decreases during discharge, so does the current (E=IR) so some means need to be incorporated to ensure the current remains the same over the full discharge cycle. Then, you simply multiply the the discharge current rate (in Amps) time the time it took to reach the manufacturers defined voltage (in Hours) and you have the battery capacity (in Amp-Hours). But this is not normally necessary. Most of us can accept the manufacturers stated capacity instead. After you know the Battery Capacity, you never need to look at voltage again. State of Charge (SOC) is a measure of how many electrons are still available based on how many a fully battery has. So, you measure the electron flow out of the battery (Amps is a measure of electron flow over time). If you had 100 electrons (for illustrative purposes only) and 50 of them were drawn out of the battery, you have 50% capacity left or the SOC is 50% It makes no difference if the battery we are talking about is 6 volt, 12 volt, or 48 volt. Granted the voltages at 50% will be different than at 100%, but what we really care about is how much capacity is left (SOC) or how much capacity we have used (DOD - Depth Of Discharge). Since the instrumentation to measure the flow of electrons out (and back into under charging) is readily available, there is no need to worry about voltage or the accuracy of the Inverter voltmeter (in so far as using voltage to determine remaining battery capacity. So, we can basically forget about voltage and calibration and accuracy of the voltmeter for purposes of determining SOC. The electron flow is usually measured by a Shunt installed in the negative battery terminal such that all current for that battery bank must flow through it, and electronic circuitry to take the measurement from the shunt, and apply algorithms (math functions) to it using the user inputed Battery Capacity and provides the SOC value. This is often displayed on a readout, but more recently may not include the readout, and send the info via Bluetooth to a phone or tablet for display. Ok, now on to AGS (Auto Gen Start). I think I understand what you are trying to relate, in simple terms the battery voltage of a battery under load is lower that the voltage would be if that battery were not under a load. The difference depends on a lot of things, but primarily the amount of load and the Battery Capacity. Obviously, the higher the load, the more it will drag down the instantaneous battery voltage. But the Battery Capacity also plays into this too. If I have twice the battery capacity, the amount the voltage will drop under the same load is less (not necessarily exactly one-half though). So, what you are proposing, is what Magnum talks about in their remote manual for setting the AGS, is to use a slightly lower voltage than what voltage has been extrapolated to relate to 50% SOC. This discussion applies to Lead Acid (FLA, AGM, etc.), NOT Lithium. Since it is an industry accepted practice to limit discharge of lead acid batteries to no more than 50% SOC. Ideally, we would use SOC (as Victron and many newer technology devices allow), since we wouldn't have to worry about this pesky voltage scenario, but most Magnum Inverters, even though they can display SOC, don't allow for that to be used in AGS. The term RECOVERY, as defined by Lifeline (I can find no reference to that term being used by Trojan) refers to deeply discharged (less than 1.93 volts/cell or 11.6 volts for a 12 volt battery). They define a special procedure to recharge these batteries in hopes of rejuvenating them. I think it best that "Recovery" be eliminated from discussions because its use is confusing. Victron's Specification for State of Charge (SOC) is =/- 0.1% over the 0 - 100% range. Voltage is =+-0.01V over 0 - 100Volts, Current +/- 0.01 (0 - 10A), +/- 0.1A )10 - 500A) and +/- 1.0A (500 - 9999A). Much more accurate than we need for our purposes. But remember, this equipment is designed for commercial (small towns in remote areas use Victron equipment with solar farm for the their sole power). Tom, you are wrong in your characterization of Lambert or Amp-L-Start and similar types of maintainers as THIEVES. This is simply not true. Yes, they take voltage from one battery bank to maintain another battery bank, but ONLY when a battery bank is being charged. The only connect the two banks together when the voltage of the "doner" bank is above 13.5 volts, and disconnect when the voltage drops to 12.8 volts. (These are spec's from one device, so the actual voltages may differ slightly). So, there is no possibility of the device allowing the "doner" battery to discharge. There are great devices, and I highly recommend them for those who use solar. For people who use mostly solar to charge their batteries, most connect it only to the house batteries. Under these conditions, the chassis batteries would never get charged (assuming the generator is not used). But with these types of maintainers, once the house batteries are charged (above 13.5 volts - typically Float Voltage) they engage and begin "stealing" the excess charge from the solar panel to maintain the chassis batteries. I'm not being argumentative, but trying to be informative, and reduce "wives tales". -Rick N. I did the same on my 1997 Dynasty.

That solenoid is used both ways. If it is bad charging the chassis batteries when on ShorePower, it is also bad charging the House batteries when running the main engine alternator. You can tell if it is engaged because it will be hot to the touch. If engaged, you should not have more than 0.2 Volts difference between the two main lugs. -Rick N

Easy way to find out. Turn off the Chassis Battery Disconnect Switch and try to start the generator. If it starts, it's starting off the House bank. If it doesn't start, turn on the Chassis Battery Disconnect Switch and turn Off the House Battery Disconnect Switch. If it start, it's starting off the Chassis bank. If it still doesn't start, you have a problem. It is relatively easy on many Monaco coaches to switch the generator to start off the other set of batteries. Both Chassis and House Battery circuits have large cables running to the FRB (Front Run Bay). The generator cable also connects to one of those circuits in the FRB. Simply remove from one and connect to the other. -Rick N. If you have LiFePO4 House batteries, I do NOT recommend trying to Boost to start the main engine. If you are boosting from the Chassis batteries to start the generator connected to the House batteries, it is less of a concern, if think. I have disabled my BIRD since I don't want either system connecting to the other. -Rick N. You can do a "dry run" in your driveway, during the day. Yes, there will be slightly more lights used in the evening, but then slightly less after you retire, with the possible exception of the furnace. -Rick N.

Tom, I think your battery info is about 10 years outdated. Right now, you can buy a Renogy 200 A-Hr LiFePO4 battery from Renogy (a fairly reputable company, but definitely not the Rolls Royce of LiFePO4 batteries for just slightly more than you can purchase two Trojan T-105 batteries. I say two, because you need to 6-volt batteries to operate our 12 volt systems. The T-105's are rated at 225 A-Hrs, and the best cost I can find is $189.00 each - so $378 for two. that yields $1.68/A-Hr. The Renogy 200 A-Hr batteries are $369 each. They are 12 volt so only one is needed. That yields $1.85/A-Hr. Note the with the Renogy, you only have 200 A-Hrs vs the T-105 at 225, but all 200 A-Hrs are usable where only 50% or 112.5 A-Hrs are useable with the Trojans. I've never heard the term RECOVERY used in determining when to set the AGS to start. It makes no difference what the "Recovery" voltage might be, unless you are proposing to disconnect all loads before the AGS is allowed to crank the generator. Not likely. The loads will be there when the AGS start value is reached, and will remain there while the generator is cranking. I have never heard that using an AGS affects the depth of discharge (1 - SOC) versus charging with Shore Power. There are other considerations when switching to LiFePO4 batteries. Will the inverter work with them. Almost all inverters with updates built in the last 20+ years will work. But you will need a DC-DC Charger if you want to charge from the alternator. Some don't use one, but many have fried their alternators. Even if you don't damage your alternator, you don't want 14.4 Volts applied to LiFePO4 batteries for 8 hours while driving down the road (I don't want that applied to my Lead Acid either, so I disabled alternator charging of my house batteries). There are many other factors, like freezing temps, that need to be considered when changing to LiFePO4 also. But the OP really was asking about how to manage his current rig when boon-docking (BD). I think wholesale replacement of the batteries, generator, and adding solar are outside the scope. But things like switching to LED lights and choosing the location for a climate where A/C or Heat is not required for 24 hours a day are smart considerations. I guess the next step would be for the OP to relate why he wants to BD. Is it to save money? Is it because there are no other facilities where he wishes to go? Getting a feel for how the OP wishes to travel would be more helpful than tossing out lots of suggestions that might not be appropriate to his wishes. -Rick N. My alarms from my Victron 700 series are quite accurate. It isn't the bluetooth or alarms that makes a false reading, but the source of the alarm. -Rick N.

You have thought things through, but you should never let your batteries drop below 12.0 (some say 12.2) volts. That is the "average" voltage for Lead Acid batteries to be deemed 50% discharged. Discharging below that will significantly decrease battery life. Your use of 10.5 - 11.0 volts is a dead battery, likely to not be recovered. Without look up wiring diagrams, I don't know if your Knight has a BIRD. If it doesn, and it is functioning (all my comments assume everything is functioning as it should) then your Chassis batteries will be charged when on Shore (Gen) power. If you are not sure if you have a BIRD, ask and someone will check for you. Monaco was not consistent (and there are many that will argue both ways) with which battery bank the generator starts. I recommend the Chassis battery, so when you do get the house batteries low, the generator will still start. I have AGS (Automatic Generator Start), but rarely does it get used. Now, in my system, which is not Magnum (it's all Victron equipment) AGS mean starting the generator when battery conditions signal it to do so. I have a separate ATS (Auto Temperature Start) which I understand some Magnum Inverters have incorporated in the overall AGS terminology. I have never even tested my ATS, as I have never been somewhere I felt that was critical. I don't often stay where heat would be a problem for a few hours if I lost Shore Power (it is mostly used for when Shore Power fails, and that kills the A/Cs, the generator will start and continue powering the A/Cs). I look at AGS as a lazy man's safety. I believe in actively participating in the management of my energy usage, and as such, will check the battery conditions before the need to fire up the gen. I know it works because I left my coach for some body work and they had it inside their shop for over a week. Normally this isn't a problem because I have solar, but that doesn't work inside. I received notifications that the generator was periodically starting. The shop didn't notice until they had it in their paint booth and came in and the booth was full of exhaust. I look at AGS like overdraft protection on a checking account. I know what I have in my bank, and what I spend, so I have no need for overdraft protection. But not everyone has the same attention to details, and sometimes "stuff happens". Since you already own the coach, go live in it. Disconnect from Shore Power and see how long the batteries last under "normal" usage. If you can't make it overnight, you need to address either your "normal" or you need additional (or maybe replacement) batteries. This is something you can do, even in when your at home. Watch the battery usage. I dry camp with several others with Monaco's for weeks. Many have solar, but some don't, and they do just fine. The fire up the generator in the morning when they get up, cook breakfast, and let it run a couple hours. Then again at dinner for an hour or two. If it's cold and the will be using the furnace overnight, they will run the gen about an hour before retiring to top off the batteries. This is for Lead Acid batteries. Oh, and don't try to recharge Lead Acid batteries to 100% on the generator. The last 15% can take HOURS - not worth the fuel. Generally I suggest to shut down the gen when the charger goes into Float Mode, unless you are using it for something besides charging batteries. You'll get a lot more bang for your buck by running the gen 3 times a day versus trying to recharge to 100% Of the group still laugh at me for running my generator, twice a day, for 8+ hours trying to get the last 3-5% back in the batteries. Another thing, if you use CPAP, turn off the humidifier. My CPAP draws less than an amp without the humidifier. It is rated at 4.5 Amps with the humidifier. That 45 Amps @ 12.5 VDC! Of course, the humidifier doesn't run 100% of the time, but it will save if you are having issues making it overnight without running the generator. If you are not using your inverter (no need to have 110 VAC) turning off the Inverter will save 4+ Amps, the plus being whatever else it is powering. Before I upgraded to LiFePO4 batteries, I could save over 20 Amps overnight by killing the inverter. That is because of all the "stuff" I have running, and that was easier than running around unplugging things (like TVs, Dish Receivers, WiFi Routers, Cell Boosters, and lots of other things) and then re-plugging them in in the morning. I can't answer your question about the macerator toilets, but I expect it is high when used, but for short durations. I suspect the "parasitic" draw would be insignificant. I've seen many articles from different RV groups (FMCA. Escapees, etc) and others, but don't have a direct cite for them. Bottom Line: Try testing how things go when you have Shore Power (so you don't have to fire up the gen if the batteries get weak) before you attempt extended dry-camping. -Rick N.

Tom, I think you are conflating SOC (State of Charge, measured in percent of the battery capacity) and Battery Voltage. There is no "surface SOC". You seem to be implying that the charts that Trojan or other Lead Acid (Flooded Lead Acid or AGM) publish to help the user estimate the SOC by voltage as the Standard by which SOC is measured. A true Battery Monitor for SOC (not to be confused by the Battery Voltage Monitor Bob H. linked to in his post above, measures electron flow into and out of the battery. Ok, it really measures the electron flow through the shut, which presumably is connected to the battery. It don't know or care about voltage, type of battery chemistry (Lead Acid, Lithium, etc.). For it to present the net count of electrons, it does need to know the battery capacity. This is where any calibration takes place. It may know the number of electrons, but if it doesn't know the total number, it can't tell the State of Charge (SOC) or % of charge. Think of a water flow meter, it knows how much water was used, but it can't tell you how much you have left or what percentage you have left, unless you tell it the size of the supply tank. No, what you have mentioned above does come into play in determining the Capacity of the battery. For most batteries, this is done by discharging the battery at a know level (amps) for a know period of time (minutes or hours) and then using calibrated equipment to recharge the battery fully. That is where Surface Charge takes effect. Most readers don't bother unless there is reason for questioning. So, most people enter the Amp-Hour rating the manufacturer gives. But this deteriorates over time, and if accuracy is required, needs to be reassessed periodically. Again, most readers don't do this. It is true that the shunt might not be perfectly accurate, but the accuracy is magnitudes greater than other elements in the system. And who need to measure their SOC to within 0.01% accuracy? Give me 2% - 5% and I'll call that good. We aren't designing space or weapon systems here. I dare say that the shunt is 10 times more accurate than a field battery capacity test. Additionally, the battery capacity will change depending on the rate of discharge. For LiFePO4 batteries, it is recommended NOT to use voltage to determine the SOC, since the LiFePO4 batteries hold their voltage fairly constant down to about 15% SOC. This is the main reason these new Battery Monitors are becoming so prevalent (along with cost decreases).

Put a good charge on them, and I would disconnect the negative on both banks; house & chassis.

Do you have Lithium Batteries? If so, then need to be heated or removed to a heated area if the temp drops below 0°F (mine are -4°F for storage). -Rick N.