03Dynasty Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 I have 13.9vdc at the switch and in a purple/white wire going from floor to ceiling next to the slide. I opened the overhead ceiling floresent lights where there is no dcv on multiple purple/white wires. I also jumpered the hallway hot to the kitchen overhead and all the kitchen lights came on. Flopping the wires sounds like they go toward the refigerator where there isn't any access (glued padded overhead). Has anyone worked in this area or know of a shop.. SE Penna. 1st pic is the cable to ceiling, (not accessable). 2nd, just before I opened up the wire access box to find the sorce. Not much room to see anything but I could get my hand in. I'm not sure how to attack it at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Dynasty Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 Took days to troubleshoot but came down to hi resistance connections on kitchen switch and fuse holder/blades. Fixed by using silicon spray on the fuse box, switch plus making sure crimp on wires was tight. Had conditions that didn't make sense at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 OPPS….if you really used SILICONE spray…that is a NO NO for electrical contacts and breakers. It is an INSULATOR. Folks have sprayed it into balky ignition switches and had to replace. It INSuLATES the contacts… Never use Silicone sprays on electronics or contacts or any electrical device ….or, where you might ever paint…. My suggestion…..wherever you sprayed it….respray with WD-40 to flush it out…. It will eventually stop working or be instantly “insulated”. WD-40 will flush it out and the mild solvent will flush out any Silicone reaidue. Then…wait 30 minutes or so….Use CRC ELECTRONICS cleaner and “sparingly” flush out the WD-40. WD-40 is actually good to “remove” the abrasion between two plastic mating parts….like a switch…then a little contact cleaner (NOT the high potency ELECTRICAL or Motor Cleaner) to flush out any residual. Folks have driven cars and then been stranded as the silicone dried (as a light powder” and totally killed their ignition switches.. SERIOUS ISSUES….retreat and undo…. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Dynasty Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 (edited) Good point, WILL DO, I didn't know that. I'll get the CRC and use it, Thanks It was a weird problem. I always had 13v at the switch and wire going to the ceiling. Occasionally .6v at the fixtures. The fuses were pulled out and reinserted, switch blades removed and reinserted without changing the fixture voltages. Had me chasing grounding and bad wire connections. The spray actually made a immediate difference after chasing my tail for 3 days.. Edited April 1 by 03Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Dynasty Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 I was a little confused because I use a dialectric silicone on battery terminals, so checking it out I found this that confirms the use of silicone good and bad. I'm going to have to address what I did, but the voltage and amperage is probably too low to cause a fire. I don't want to leave a problem and need to keep all connections with 0 resistance. It won't hurt to clean everything up. https://waterproofwiki.com/can-you-use-silicone-to-waterproof-electrical-connections/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 7 minutes ago, 03Dynasty said: I was a little confused because I use a dialectric silicone on battery terminals, so checking it out I found this that confirms the use of silicone good and bad. I'm going to have to address what I did, but the voltage and amperage is probably too low to cause a fire. I don't want to leave a problem and need to keep all connections with 0 resistance. It won't hurt to clean everything up. https://waterproofwiki.com/can-you-use-silicone-to-waterproof-electrical-connections/ Silicone Grease (Bulb Grease) is what is used on bulbs. It is also what folks use on mating connectors (male and female) to prevent corrosion. NOW....the caveat... You should NEVER use the grease if there is severe corrosion without first cleaning. Sometimes you can clean by plugging and unplugging. Other times....manual. A small brass parts brush (think toothbrush size) works well. On small round male and female fittings, I carry a .17 Caliber Pellet or pistol cleaning brush. That works great on the Roadmaster round umbilicals. NOW...if there is really a buildup and you need to salvage... Purchase a small tube of NoAlox. (Amazon and most electrical supply shops have it). Lowes USED to carry Gardner Bender Anticorrosion grease. That was formulated where you have to make connections between Copper and Aluminum....as in Manufactured Housings. It has some "Aluminum" fines or grit in it. That IMPROVES the conductivity of a "crappy" joint. Most "field" electricians have it. If a Circuit Breaker's tangs or the blade are corroded, they will clean as best they can. Then, using a tooth pick or a small screwdriver, put a smidge on the tangs (springs) and blades....then seat and unseat a few times. I often use this, maybe once every few years on the pins of the 50 Amp connector....especially on my home hookup. OK... NOW.. Batteries. I use the commercial battery corrosion inhibitor. I clean all the metal. I then connect and torque. Then I spray the entire stud, nut and connectors....just like most shops do when they put in a new battery. The Silicone SPRAY that you buy is 100% (or close) Silicone. It is a GREAT Waterproofing....spray it on something and let it dry. It will "bead" water. BUT, in a light switch or any ignition switch or anywhere you have or supposed to have a Mechanical (as in a terminal and connector) or POINTS or contacts... It will NOT be good. TRUST me...again... on that. SO, I would undo what you did....and then continue on...and be aware of the uses and the pitfalls. MH's are notorious for POOR connections due to vibrations. Spraying Silicone inside a switch will insulate it or will give you a high resistance connection... On that you can be sure... WE ALL LEARN....don't ASK me how I have such an extensive understanding of the calamity that one can create.... LOL... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Dynasty Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 I'm with you, light resistance is what caused my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Dynasty Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 (edited) I metered 13.9v everywhere at floor level and .6v at the lights, had the fuse in and out several times before I sprayed it. The kitchen under-cabinet started working immediately after that to my surprise. I went back and flushed whereever I had the silicon with WD 40 and CRC contact cleaner just to be sure a protential problem doesn't exist. problem Fixed Edited April 13 by 03Dynasty 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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