Dr4Film

Steven, here is a photo of my Battery Isolator Relay which is made by White-Rogers.  Some of the newer models have been using a BigBoy Relay which looks similar.

It is the big relay located in between and just below the two large Guest Battery Disconnect Switches and just above the White -Rogers Battery Cut-Off Relay (which is bypassed).

Tony, it is my understanding that while you can read all of the posts you receive in your email box, if you want to post or respond you have to go to the site and do it there. At least that's the way I have been operating with the new site.

Plus when you choose to post a new topic you have to select the proper category as to where it makes the most sense for it to go. There are a number of different categories to choose from.

When the engine is running the charging voltage coming out of your alternator should be about 14.1-14.4, at least that is what mine is. Don't understand why you have a bigger range down in the mid 13's.

I believe they are 1/4 inch lines so take a 1/4 inch open-end wrench and straddle the line with it next to the fitting. Then push the head of the wrench into the fitting while pulling out on the air line. Easy peasy.

Steven, the old Monacoers site had photos of a BEP switch that had caught fire. I can't find it here on our new site plus the old site is pretty much useless now as everything is gone. Maybe someone who has those photos will post them here.

Why not purchase an IP Camera with pan & scan. I have some in my home here in Florida which allows me to monitor everything inside & out except for the two bedrooms and baths. I use a phone app plus I have an app on my laptop which gives me control of the camera. They also have a microphone and speaker.

Question on the SensorPush system, I assume you need to have the Wi-Fi gateway in order to monitor temps & humidity while away from the coach, correct?

Eric, I agree with Steven unless you specifically want a portable charger for other purposes. But if you only want to keep the chassis battery fully charged when on shore or generator power then the AMP-L-START is your best choice.

Steven, in your photo you referenced your Battery Switch. That sure looks like a BEP Battery Switch. Check it out to make sure it is NOT. If it is then I strongly suggest you get it replaced ASAP. Those BEP switches are fire hazards. Blue Seas, Perko and Guest are all decent battery switches.

39 minutes ago, greg1262002 said:

Noticed my charging LED was flashing quickly which I hadn't noticed before. No error LED, normal float charging message in the screen, battery full LED has steady light. According to the manual the charging  LED will not be lit in float mode. 

Anyone seen this and/or know what it my mean? Thanks.

Greg, not sure which manual you have or you are referring to but according to my RC7-GS manual the Charge LED flashing "fast" is normal when your battery bank is in FLOAT charging mode.  If it is a "very fast flash" then your charger is in "equalizing"" charging mode.

So to me it appears your Inverter is acting normal.

I will upload the RC7-GS Manual that I have to the Files Section for you to compare to yours.

1 hour ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

I think the new site is great.

Thanks to all who made it happen!

Dave, I TOTALLY agree! This site is a million times better than any of the Yahoo Groups I had belong to.

Thanks to everyone who worked very hard with I am sure many long hours of computer time to make this happen.

1 hour ago, Bobbyboy said:

Richard:  I looked at the borg valves.  They indicate that the DL4M kit with the 9" extenders is the correct kit for the Roadmaster/Monaco chasis.  Is that the kit you purchased.

Bob L, 08 dynasty

Bob,

Frankly I don't remember as it was over 10 years ago and I went directly to the Borg store in Tujunga CA as I was living close by at the time. The owner who was still alive at the time took care of me and came out from the back with everything I needed. I then went over to the Parkhouse Tire shop in San Fernando Valley to have the stems and a set of new tires installed.

I did have one small problem with one of the rear dully stems when the large size Dyna Beads would keep getting clogged inside the stem which wasn't supposed to happen. I went back to Parkhouse Tire shop and had them remove the stem, then drove over to Borg with it and they replaced the stem with a new one, no charge. That one gave me no problems whatsoever with the same beads for over 9 years.  I have since gone to Balance Masters on the rears and got rid of the beads as the price on the beads plus shipping from Las Vegas was almost as much as the Balance Masters.

Pretty simple! On the MAIN home screen up top in the RED banner lower right hand corner is a SEARCH function. When you click on that it brings up a menu of FILTERS you can select. If you choose EVERYTHING it will search in ALL places on this forum. Once you type in your search term or phrase click on the little magnifier.

It will bring up everything relative to whatever you typed in.

For example I typed in parts an got this list: https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=parts

Joe, it most likely comes from Monaco #2 where the 25 amp fuse for the headlights is located. The only way to locate it is to unwrap the spilt-loom and look for headlight identification possibly on the wire. Monaco used a lot of WHITE wires exactly for that purpose of identification. I don't see any relay associated with the headlights only the fuse.

I like a previous posters suggestion of cleaning the connectors, pins and sockets real good with contact cleaner then place a small amount of electrical contact grease on the connector before sealing it back together.

Yes, my Dr4Film handle is blocked from iRV2.com for life. I still go there occasionally  to read some stuff but I no longer post. I could have re-upped with a different handle and email but the moderators would have zeroed in on me eventually, that I am sure,  due to being TOO outspoken for them. There is life after iRV2!

I mainly stick to this very friendly group.

1 minute ago, jminyard1@gmail.com said:

It's raining now so can't go out.  Is the DRL relay in the front electrical compartment?

Yes, it the FRB (aka Front Run Bay).  It should have white wires  marked with DRL on it.

I had my Hamsar DRL relay fail a number of years back which caused my headlights to come on and stay on. Plus the relay was so hot to the touch I had to use pliers to remove it. I pulled it out then researched where to purchase another one and it was going to cost $125 !!! Nope! Instead I have been using a set of LED's that I installed in place of the Hella Fog Lamps which come on as soon as I hit the ignition key. Those are now my DRL's.

I doubt that the Hamsar relay is a cause to your problem but easy to test. Just pull out the relay from the socket and test your headlights.

Technology has changed a lot since I purchased the one that I am using in my coach which is an older version of Street Guardian Model SGZC12SG back in 2015. I also installed a 128 GB SD Card inside. I have been very happy with the performance and actually have taken some clips from it. One of a near Moose collision in Alaska, another of  some grisly bears meandering across the highway and another of some road rage that took place in VA on my way back to Florida one year.

https://streetguardian.info/sgzc12sg-v2-pro

Joe,

There are other lamps that are included with the headlights. Are the headlights the ONLY ones not working?

Joe, one question I do have is that you need to check whether the headlights turn on when you activate your wipers  or not.  Get back to me when you find out.

I just went through the fuse and relay layout in Section 9 of the manual and found a 25 amp Headlight fuse located in the small Monaco #2 box which is located in that Front Run Bay under the drivers window. You might want to check that fuse also.

Joe,

Don't you have an owners manual? There is one in there under section 12 starting on page 31. If you don't have that I can send a copy of mine to your PEM.

If you install a Haier Fridge such as a model 15 cu/ft you won't have to do any modifications to the enclosure that I know of or you could install a Fisher-Paykel which is larger and more expensive but again no modifications that I know of. Plus you would NOT have to change out your inverter or add more batteries, etc. unless you are mostly a boondocker. I installed a Samsung RF-197 back in 2012 and didn't have to do anything other than increase the height of the old NotSoCold opening.

Maybe check your ATS (auto transfer switch) to make sure power is being transferred to both legs of your coach when the generator is running. Each AC runs on one 50 amp leg of power when hooked to shore power and the same would be true for the generator.

Are there other 120 VAC outlets not working too?

I also recommend Stone Vos Inc. for your awning work and Josam's in Orlando for your steering box leak and any other chassis work that may need attention. In regards to replacing your water pump, if you are planning to attend the Monacoers Gathering at Lazy Days from February 11 -16, I can replace your water pump providing you have a new one already in hand. They are not that difficult.

On 12/22/2019 at 6:19 PM, Bobbyboy said:

Thanks Rick.  I was interested only because it looked easy to install in the engine room.  I have no idea if it works or is just a "gimmick"

Bob L,08 dynasty

I saw a video on Facebook taken at the Ramblers Maintenance Session demonstrating this device and frankly I was not impressed with how long it took to activate the device to extinguish the fire. Plus it was located inside a small enclosed clear container.

If you are a Facebook user and also belong to the Monaco RV Owners Group then use this search phrase "Monaco RV Owners group Proteng fire extinguisher video" it will bring up the video so you can view it and come to your own conclusion.

To close out this topic I wanted to do a follow-up with the final results.

I went to NAPA and purchased a section of new vacuum line which goes from the reservoir tank to the vacuum generator. I then took my compressor and blew out the ventrui in both directions and reassembled it back onto the firewall. Started the coach up to air up the system and voila, the dash air flow system is back working correctly.

Now to be fair, I believe that the main cause was self-inflicted in that I must have accidentally knocked off the tiny vacuum line that goes from one port on the vacuum reservoir through the firewall into the dash controls. I didn't realize it and frankly that tube is so tiny that I had to go looking for it as it wasn't quickly apparent to me.

Ivan helped a lot in explaining the operation because I didn't even realize that there was a tube missing. Thank you Ivan!

Well it's about time!

Congratulations!

Now your life is entering "phase two" which I have been in for the last 10 years now and I am still trying to figure out when I had time to work at my previous 46 year career.

Ivan,

Thank you SO much for the explanation and the photo. After reading your post I went to my coach to look closer at the entire system. Lo and behold, while working around the firewall area this past summer on a special project I had inadvertently knocked off the tiny tube from the second port of the vacuum reservoir by accident and didn't realize it. So most likely my vacuum generator is operating just fine.

But since I have it all apart I am going to do some cleaning on it anyway, replace the vacuum  hoses and assemble it back together. At least now I understand how this operates better and all of the connections.

Thank you again. You have saved me lots of work.