saflyer

With solar I find I don’t need alternator charging since I only drive in the daytime and the panels keep the batteries charged even while running the residential refrigerator. So didn’t bother with DCDC charger.

Magnum shunt needs to be the one that works with lithium. The original ones did not. Lithium ones model number ends in “-L”.

What amp hours and voltage are the Sam’s? I assume 6v. Does the Xantrex have the ability to input custom charging? Using a non-lithium profile can work but might only change to 80% of the lithium’s capability. Plus as I understand it you MUST disable equalization charging. It will destroy lithiums. Worth a call to Xantrex for their input.

I wish I had a cup holder in the left side console. The one in the drawer in the center console is a stretch while driving.

This is mine. At least six wire all of which are white and only three labeled. Behind my abilities. Took it to the shop.

Got the switch out. There are far more wires than I expected. They are all white and only a couple labeled and they were for panel dimming. Oh well, it’s off to the shop we go.

Success. Got the light switch out. Now to test it.

Thanks. Very useful. Mine is slightly different as to the nut that holds it to the dash. Shouldn’t be a problem. I’ll go back out and try to locate the button again.

Can you be more specific about the location of the button? Is it on the part of the switch behind the dash? I have a very limited view of it there due to the left vent hose obstructing the view. I could remove the hose but am afraid this will just introduce new problems. Doing it mostly by feel now.

Interesting. I was rotating the switch to see if there is a set screw or some such to remove the knob. I need to do that to remove the switch since my headlights don’t work, bright or dim. I only have parking lights. So that brings up the subject of how to remove the switch. I can access the back of the switch by removing the cover of the dash but need to remove the knob to remove the switch. How is this accomplished. Am I approaching this correctly or should I troubleshoot elsewhere first? Is there a good source for the switch? I have heard it’s an old standard that should be available at any auto parts store. BTW, thanks Tom for going easy on me.

Went to the coach tonight. The two lights under the TV console were on. Nobody remembers turning then on. I tried to tap them off but no luck. Operating on battery power. Since they are both behaving the same way it must be a system problem. Where should I look short of disconnecting the house batteries? Ed 2005 HR Ambassador

Does the inverter have a costume charging option? And I think you need to be able to disable the equalize function. Lithiums can’t tolerate it.

I go through this every year. For years I never winterized at my home in Oklahoma. My coach is stored in a somewhat insulated hangar in the back yard. My neighbor, who had lived next door for many years before we moved there told me he never winterized. We try to avoid it since we usually leave for an extended trip in late January. That was good until about three years ago when near or below zero temps were forecast for several days. I broke down and winterized with air. Was glad I did as the hangar got down to 17°F one night.

I have the same concern at home. When we leave for an extended trip I turn the water heater off at the street for fear of leaks and flooding in the house. A little concerned though since it is in the attached garage and there is a very remote chance it freeze.

Atwood electric/propane heater. Just thinking an RV could be put in long term storage with an electrical hookup and forget to turn off the electrical water heater.

Curious if the water heater element can be damaged if the water is shut off with the heater running? IOW will the hot water evaporate out and not be replaced from the source. Or with no faucets open is it a closed enough system to not evaporate out?

Good info.

Just read on another RV site that T-Mobile does have a gateway with an external antenna connection. Supposedly you just call T-Mobile and they will trade them out, no charge. We’ll see and hopefully it won’t have the signal drop problem i currently have. m I currently have.

Are there two different technologies for 5G? One that uses a large tower and broadcasts over a relatively large area and another that uses small antennas mounted on streetlight height poles and each antenna has a range of only blocks, if that?

Therein is part of the problem, as far as I know none of these modems have options for external and preferably roof mounted antennas so finding a good spot in your home is key. I’m right on the ragged edge of T-Mobile home internet service and all of the usable locations in my house have a building limiting line of site to the tower. It works but could be better. A roof antenna would solve the problem. I saw some YouTube videos about making your own external antenna attachment but it was way beyond my ability. Recently a T-Mobile customer service person hinted an external antenna model is available. I’ll have to check that ou. As an aside my modem drops its connection to the tower and has to be rebooted manually. Not good if, like me you use the service for your home security system while on a trip. Midway through out last trip that happened and we had no home security for the rest of the trip.

That’s the issue, coverage. I wonder if the towers that home 5G internet uses are special ones different from the cellphone system. I’ve used T-Mobiles service identifier where you put in an address to find if that location has home internet available. Many times it returns a negative response but I am able to use my T-Mobile phone there. Might be a crapshoot getting home internet service in any given location.

Oops: https://www.renogy.com/renogy-12v-24v-ip67-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger-with-mppt-renogy-one-core-for-free/?utm_campaign=BU-50A DC-DC Battery Charger new launch (01HFNYHSWN2X7F4M9XWF6W4341)&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Highly Engaged - 120 day&_kx=bU3Dp1MbZ7wJpNcL7Jp9G_VKcgT7rc9HlWQNk3lVOzA%3D.HLdMzK

This is a new solution from Renogy. I’ll be adding two more solar panels to my current 6 so will need a second charge controller. I’ve been thinking of a DCDC charger. Could this be a good solution. My eyes start to roll when I read all of thfeatures so if anyone can help please do. Oops, left the link off originally: https://www.renogy.com/renogy-12v-24v-ip67-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger-with-mppt-renogy-one-core-for-free/?utm_campaign=BU-50A DC-DC Battery Charger new launch (01HFNYHSWN2X7F4M9XWF6W4341)&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Highly Engaged - 120 day&_kx=bU3Dp1MbZ7wJpNcL7Jp9G_VKcgT7rc9HlWQNk3lVOzA%3D.HLdMzK Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Thanks. It helps to always spell out terms before using acronyms and abbreviations.

What is an I/C? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador