saflyer

Guess I’d better look into this. I bought my coach used and it had solid covers. But it also has heat pumps so maybe I have the wrong kind.

I wonder if each is designed for a different A/C model and it’s not appropriate to substitute one for the other for operational reasons.

I just wonder if the manufacturer had a reason for two different types, with and without holes.

This might be it. Solved the problem yesterday. Will try again today.

I moved the coach yesterday. The airbags were low so that warning beeper came on. After it stopped I released the parking brake and put it in drive that warning beeper came on. Both beepers seemed to be in the same location and about the same tone but a difference in rapidity of the beep. Can I conclude the two warnings use the same beeper? Also, one person implied the leveling jacks are part of the parking brake/transmission alarm system. One of mine takes a long time to fully retract but they all appeared to be fully up when I did this test.

Thanks, but I replaced mine once and it didn’t help. I know there was another solution written on some forum but I can’t find it.

My 12v water pump doesn’t shut off even with all the faucets closed. This problem just started last week. How can I decide if it’s a leak in a line or the shutoff switch is bad. If the latter I would think the tone of the pump would go down and it would slow down but not stop. Where is the pump switch, internal to the pump or external? I am sure every faucet is turned off. Any suggestions on where to start? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Aha, good one. I’ll check it out. I always wondered what that spigot was for. Hopefully the pump supplies potable tank water to that spigot.

I replace that switch years ago. Didn’t help. I know there was a thread on some forum describing a completely different fix that was supposed to do the job but can’t find it.

What is confusing is after one fill a few miles down the road there was fuel all over my toad’s right side but that didn’t happen after the first refuel. For that matter the first time I actually overfilled to the point of getting some on the ground. But none on the toad after a long drive. Like I have said there are a lot of confounding points in this issue. My trip to Texas in February should give a lot better data.

I’ll have to check. I went out and started the crack, relieved the park brake and the light on dash went out. Put it in drive, released the brake and no beeper. First time that has happened on initial start that I can remember. Next time the beeper sounds inappropriately I’ll check the dash light. Thanks

I just wish I could reach my snap disk. That would be so nice.

I believe there was a thread describing a permanent fix for a parking brake warning beeper that won’t turn off when the coach is put in gear with the parking brake released. I’ve searched for the thread but nothing I input for search terms gives the thread. The thread could have been on another forum but thought it was here. Mine does this frequently especially on the first drive of the day but eventually stops beeping. The length of time it beeps keeps getting longer and I’m afraid someday it won’t stop. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

MODERATOR EDIT. Please do NOT start a NEW TOPIC with an "UPDATE". Continue to use the same topic. Thanks END OF EDIT Mea culpa time, maybe. After fueling yesterday I moved the coach a few feet to a spot where it tilted a little to the right. Got out to find fuel pouring out of the right hand side. I quickly opened the fueling door to find the tank cap off and hanging from its lanyard. In most cases I fuel on the left side almost always but I guess I fueled on the right side in June which was the last time before the new tires. Now this doesn’t necessarily explain all of the mileage loss but it does explain some, possibly. Confounding factors: (1) I found the right side of my toad covered in fuel after one but only one refueling. (2) I would think after the loss of a few gallons fuel would no longer come out the open fill line. I did check for leaks multiple times and found no evidence of any. I won’t have a chance to do another mileage test until our next trip in February. Will update then. Ed I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.

Think I could find a three story building and hold the hose all the way up to the roof then bour buckets of bleach water down the hose. Kidding but it might work. Wonder about something like the containers you attach to a hose and put weed killer in to meter with the water flow. If you could use one of those if it could be adjusted to mix 1 cup bleach with every 50 gallons of water flow?

My hose is permanently installed on a power reel behind a wall in the wet bay so not an easy or cheap task. Also, from where that hose attaches to the coach water system to the point it intersects the potable water tank line would still be contaminated. I have moved to where water should be good. I have run that water through all faucets for at least an hour so far.

We went to a Texas state park last week. After setting up and using some park water I saw a note on the door for a “boil water advisory”. Now I have to sanitize my system. Suggestions are appreciated. I have a few ideas. I can put bleach in the potable water tank and run the electric pump through each faucet, hot and cold, which should clean most lines. One problem is the water fill hose would not get any bleach water through it. Also, the water I would put in the potable water tank would come through that contaminated hose. Second, should I drain the water heater then fill it with the bleach water? How do I know when the water heater has been refilled? Anything else I should do? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

That’s OK. No changes to anything I can think of including our travel weight. Good question. The first fill-up with most miles on the new tires was mostly level across central Oklahoma and north central Texas with a slight tailwind. The second fill-up was over slightly hilly but mostly level north central Texas with a 15-25 mph quartering headwind for the second third of the miles.

My start of this thread had my last fill-up on the Michelins give 7.6 mpg. Average for the last 6 fill-ups before the new tires was 6.8. I made it a point to use the same fueling lane both times so the lean would be minimized as a factor. Even if I apply a 10 gallon difference that only gives 5.2 mpg a 23.5% reduction in mileage.

Same tire size.

I fully understand the concept of calculating mileage. But two points. One, it was my first opportunity to update. Two, as I said it’s not likely I made a difference in filling of anywhere near 5 gallons but factoring that my mileage is still horrible.

Re: previous post about lowered mileage with new tires. Just did a fill up with the new Sumitomo ST719s. The last one had 124 miles on the old tires so this one is more representative. My last fillip on the Michelins gave 7.6 mpg. The last six fillups gave an average of 6.8 mpg. This fill up was after driving 309.8 miles mostly at 65 mph. Fuel used was 69.651 so about 4.5 mpg! Ouch! My mileage dropped by fully 1/3! I filled at the same station and pump so the coach level the same on both fills. I did squeeze more fuel in the second time so that dropped my mileage. But even applying a huge fudge factor of 5 gallons the mileage is still less than 4.8 mpg. Next week I’ll take the motorhome to a shop to find out if there could be any drive train problem causing the change. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Interesting side note about lower inflation. When I purchased this coach 12 years ago Ibelieve it had Michelins but not absolutely sure. Driving it home from Michigan I thought I had made a big mistake. It drove terribly. Wandered all over the road. I was constant turning the wheel left and right wearing myself out. I was driving 60-65 and when trucks passed it scared the begeebers out of me. Got it home and had the alignment checked. It was good. Then I looked up the inflation tables. The dealer had the tires at something over 120 psi, exactly how much I don’t recall. The inflation tables were more like 95 rear and 100 or so steer. I was leary of lowering the pressure as I thought that could only worsen the drifting problem since the sidewalls would be less stiff. To my surprise that wasn’t the case. The new pressures improved the driving of the coach immensely. Still didn’t drive like a car but far better than before. I realize some of the improvement may have been muscle memory but I’m sure the inflation was a big part. To get better steering I switched from the Shephard steering box to a TRW one but didn’t notice any improvement with that.

I sent a request for info to Sumitomo via their website. Evidently they forwarded it to a U.S. distributor, TBC Corp. who responded as follows: Mr. Fogle, We are in receipt of your inquiry. We are a wholesale tire distributor of multiple brands of tires, not a tire manufacturer, and we create dedicated websites for each of the brands of tires we distribute; we distribute the Sumitomo brand of tires in North America. Most tire manufacturers only provide us with the maximum psi and maximum load a particular tire can hold, as they cannot foresee where the tire will be installed on; however, Sumitomo has provided a load inflation table which you can find by clicking on the link below: https://tbc.scene7.com/is/content/TBCCorporation/TBC%20Brands/Commercial/Sumitomo%20MRT/Catalog/2022/Medium-Truck-Technical-Data_0322.pdf This information can be found if you return to the website, go to the DEALER RESOURCES section, and under the 2023 MEDIUM TRUCK TIRES catalog, clicking on the third link that reads Medium Truck Technical Data; the information you are looking for is on page 4 of this document. Thank you, Olga Fraga Consumer Relations Tel. (800) 238-6469 Fax. (800) 467-4638 Email: ofraga@tbccorp.com

I’m not relying on the dash gauge. It’s just a heads up, first estimate. This is where I was led to the ST719: http://www.sumitomotrucktires.com/tires/find It says “steer tire” but the diagrams show them in all positions. The ST709 is stated as an “all position” tire. BTW they web page says ST 719 SE. I don’t know what difference the SE makes.