saflyer

POL?

Thanks Mike. I might get this.

Here’s mine.

It as ever so slightly nose down. The gravity fill bottle is broken around the neck so having the cap on doesn’t stop water from coming out of it. Might check Colaws for a replacement but don’t think it’s important.

Played with the insect cap on the overflow line. Now I know how it works. Filled the potable water tank to be sure it isn’t stopped up. Got a little flow out of it but more water came out of the gravity fill port in the water service bay.

OK, I’ll try to clear it up. What I thought was an overflow line was not. It is a drain line in the water service bay next to the main tank drain line. None of that is in the photo. So forget I said that. Back to that overflow line and mud dobber cap. Does it take care of itself or I need to do something when filling the tank?

I checked again and the line I described is not an overflow line but the drain line with a shutoff valve. Do I have to do anything with the bug protector or is it’s operation automatic when filling?

Good to know. Thanks It wasn’t that difficult. Two people could muscle it out but we had room to get it from the cabinet, through the coach and down the steps with a dolly.

Do you mean connect a short hose between the hot and cold faucets at the washer? That’s a though. But my original intent was to just leave the hoses in place empty of water. I thought the overflow was a small, half inch or so diameter tube sticking down through the floor of the water service bay next to the potable water tank drain valve. I’ve seen water drain through it when I overfill. For that matter when I overfill water comes out of the bottle attached to the wall that you pour fresh water into when filling from a can. I’ll have to check the item in the second image I posted in the wheel well. If it’s the overflow line how does it work? A friend said he thought the triangular item on the tube was to keep insects out of the tank. I hesitate to say what I think it looks like.

Shutoff valves at the washer connection end or where they connect to the main water line under the coach? I’ve opened a side panel to see my tanks and mist of the plumbing. It’s a lot more complicated than you’d think. If it’s very expensive to isolate the water lines I probably won’t do it. Fact is except in winters lake the last two my hangar, where I store the coach, stays warm enough to not winterize. Usually I only winterize if the RV has to go to the shop for repairs in late fall.

My coach manual shows a combo manual/needle gauge with two wires I assume are for sending the reading to the electric gauge, like the one in the RVGeeks video. Despite the manual showing that gauge I don’t have it. For that matter, I can’t find ant wires in the vicinity of the tank for electric reading. My tank sits transverse to the coach so I can only see one end.

I have removed my washer/dryer combo unit from my HR 40PLQ. Of course the valves are turned off at the cabinet where the unit was. To simplify winterizing I’d like to disconnect and close off where washer hot and cold lines connect to the main water feed. I believe this would be under the lavatory on the passenger side of the coach. The washer was in the bedroom on the driver’s side and the toilet is on that side also opposite the bathroom sink. To check this out I opened the exterior side panel to inspect these connections. There was a lot of stuff down there so I am going to ask a few questions. In the first picture is, I believe, the potable water tank which is white and below the two black tanks. The potable water tank has a line attached to the top of the tank (red arrow) on the left which is fed to the stub line in the right rear wheel well (second image). What is the purpose of that line? I assume the two black tanks are the black water tank, on the left, and gray water on the right. What is the purpose of the fresh water line feeding the black water tank (yellow arrow)? Now to the original question. I see one hot water line and two cold water ones running from this area across the frame rails to the driver’s side of the coach. I’m guessing the hot water line goes to the washer while one cold water line goes there and the other goes to the toilet. Am I correct and how hard will it be to determine which is which? The next image is of some of the lines under the bathroom sink. Is it reasonable to disconnect the washer lines there or is there a better idea? That and the fourth image showing the hot lines in the bathroom sink cabinet looks like it is an overly complicated system. In that image what is the silver cap at the top of one hot line?

Does anyone have experience with either the Hydralift or Swivelwheel golf cart carriers? I’d be mounting one on a HR 40PLQ. The question I have about Hydralift is, since all of the weight of the lift and cart is born by the chassis, how this affects coach handling. I have requested the weight of the system installed from the company. My cart is right at their limit of 1100#. I’m guessing the total could approach 1500#. Does anyone know the maximum trailer tongue weight capacity of the coach. That should answer the question of whether the coach can handle the weight though it doesn’t say anything about handling. In some ways I like the Swivelwheel more than the Hydralift since most of the weight of carrier and cart is carried by the swivel wheels. Both systems add length to my total of coach and toad, a Ford Expedition. I’ve asked Hydralift if the device clears the hood of the Expedition when in travel mode or if it would require a tow bar extension and what those added lengths are. I know the Swivelwheel adds 7’. This puts me at 68.5’ total. I wouldn’t care but I made the mistake of telling my wife about the 65’ rule and she’s a stickler for the rules. Another benefit of the Swivelwheel is I don’t have to disconnect the toad to roll the golf cart off. With the Hydralift the toad hitch would have to be removed before lowering the cart.

Thanks Rick. I checked my manual and confirmed. One less thing to consider. Ed

Great idea. Thanks

I’m paying the shop. But I did get my residential refrigerator in through the door with the help of a friend. Ed

I checked those. The question arises, with the propane turned off at the tank what happens to the pilot lights on the heaters and water heater. Do they have auto-shutoff. I’ll check the manual. Thanks

Great. I’ll find out if mine has the manobloc. I know about the valves in the lines at the washer/dryer. Hope there are some at the line origins. Thanks

I’m thinking of removing our combo washer/dryer. We never use it. My question is about dealing with the hoses. The unit is in the far aft of my coach on the driver side. I assume the hoses lead to the hot and cold water lines on the passenger side. The kitchen sink, shower and bathroom lavatory are amidship on that side. I’d like T o keep the hoses in place in case we decide to reinstall the washer but not have to winterize them in the meantime.I’m wondering if it would be reasonable to have on/off valves installed in the washer/dryer hot and cold lines where they connect to the main water feeds. Any thoughts? Ed. ’05 HR Ambassador

A few nights ago I walked up to my HR Ambassador parked in the driveway when there were very light winds. There was a strong propane aroma outside the RV. I turned the propane off at the tank and checked again the next day. I couldn’t smell it anymore. I put the motorhome in my building with the propane turned on. The next morning there was a slight propane smell in the 3000sf building. Turned the propane off and checked later and the smell seemed to be gone. I called my shop and they said they could check for a leak. However, I’m wondering if they will just determine if there is one but not necessarily seek out the location. Has anyone had this experience? How should I proceed? What questions should I ask?

Alls well that ends well. We found a Chevron in Chama with propane. Our dry camping was saved. Here’s a good article on heating with portable propane: https://www.thervgeeks.com/can-you-use-a-propane-heater-indoors/ Thanks all

I can see your point about maybe going the residential frig route. I went that direction but wish I had known about the 12v conversion before making the decision to a Whirlpool 17cf. I like it but it uses 80-100 a/h per day, about half my total usage. I believe but not sure the 12v conversion on my Notcold might use considerably less. Starting to do more dry camping. Overall, I’m happy though. BTW, I asked a cabinet maker to make something to fill in the side gap since the Whirlpool is narrower than the Notcold. He surprised me with a really nice slide out pantry. For the OP. Check baby products stores for cabinet safety latches for the doors. Note mine in the image. Ed ‘05 Holiday Rambler Ambassador

Great information Tom. Thanks

The video by The RV Geek that Cubflyer has in his reply shows what might be the same type sending unit you have. It’s a dial gauge with wires on a fitting at the center of it. Mine is probably the same without the dial. Tom Cherry has some good info on the manufacturer. As On The Road said it’s probably a float gauge. I’m guessing I was told I couldn’t add a gauge like on a home tank was because it would have to go on the top of the tank and not in the line from the tank. There is no place on top to put a gauge. So I’m thinking Cubflyer’s suggestion of the stick on the side temperature sensing gauges is my solution for now.

Great info Tom. If necessary I can go that route or buy a Buddy Heater and small propane cans. Might find a connection hose for it to a 20# tank. Hate to do that since I have a Buddy Heater at home and, like I said, 5 tanks. Thanks a bunch.