saflyer

OK help me out here. David, are you saying the wires to the pump are only powered when the vacuum is low implying the sensor for that is external to the pump. Or should there be power at all times and the circuit is only closed if a sensor internal to the generator senses inadequate vacuum, closes a switch starting the generator. That implies there is something elsewhere causing the problem and not the vacuum generator itself. I ask this because of something I saw in the wiring diagram Robertpk supplied. I don’t recall if these two issues started at the same time but they might have. My steps are not retracting normally. If the step switch is in the off position the steps should remain extended regardless of whether the entry door is open or closed except if the door is closed and the ignition key is turned to the on position. Then the steps retract to protect them during driving. Recently, and again it might have started at the same time as the AC issue, my steps don’t retract when the switch is in the down/off position, the door is closed and the ignition switch moved to the on position. I have to put the step switch in the on/up position for the steps to retract for driving. Could there be the common link here? What is the ignition switch connected to in relation to the entry steps? (BTW, as an aside, the light in the door switch has never illuminated.)

So that leads me to a failed sensor. Where should I look for that? Thanks Great. Really helps. Thanks Is the vacuum sensor in the vacuum generator? I think that might be why David led me to replacing it. Am I reading this right?

I think that’s going to be the trick, finding a fuse for that vacuum pump. Your point of the the defrost vents being the “default” position would explain their operation without my ever selecting them. Thanks, Ed

I was on a long trip in August. Most of the drive the dash air worked as expected. At one point the air from the dash vents became nil. I don’t recall if I noticed this mid-drive or when first turned on. After some time I discovered the air was flowing from the windshield defrost vents at a level you would expect based on the fan speed setting. Now I hadn’t selected defrost since last winter, only AC and vent. I have a friend with another HR coach who has some experience troubleshooting AC systems. We found what we believe is the vacuum pump above generator. We disconnected the tube from it to the reservoir and found no suction. We checked the two wires from this part and found 0 voltage regardless of engine on or off, AC on or off or AC mode. I have fan power so the one fuse listed in the front run bay must be good, am I right? Can anyone educate me on the AC system and how this part works? Ed ’05 HR Ambassador

I checked out 6 and 12 ton stands online. They extend to 24”. I think they should be placed under the raised rails either in front of the rear axle or behind the front wheels or both. Am I right? If so first that’s a real stretch subjecting me to being under the coach while I’m doing it, negating their safety benefit. Second, it looks like the raised rails sit more than 24” above the ground when the coach is at ride height so the jacks wouldn’t be much help. I haven’t actually measured it because of the above safety concern. Thoughts?

One of the most aggravating design features of the coach. In the daytime I can lean close and might be able to read it. Even then the angle causes 1s and 7s to be indistinguishable. At night, forget it.

I forgot there is digital voltage readout but not an amperage one in my ScanGuage D. Tried the test again. It did about 5 cycles of 12.1v for 4 or 5 seconds then 13.7-13.9v for about 15 seconds. Eventually it settled to reading 13.9-14.0 v with an occasional 14.1v. Does that still indicate a problem? What is a SilverLeaf? Thanks, Ed

Cummins ISC 330 with 160a alternator. I had a suspicion from my last start that the chassis batteries weren’t charged fully. I’m not good about watching my gauges so didn’t have an idea of a problem before noticing this. I don’t have an ammeter but do have a chassis voltage gauge. Decided to run the engine for a test. First I checked the chassis batteries with a voltmeter and they were just barely over 13v. When I turned the key on the panel voltage showed a little more than 12v. I started the engine. Seemed to crank good but it took about 5 seconds for the voltage to move off 12v and indicate charging at about 13.3-13.5 volts. (Difficult to tell since the gauge is in single digit increments. One of my old engineering professors would say you can’t resolve it closer than one volt.) It showed 13+ For about 15 seconds the went back to about 12v for 5 seconds then 13+ again for about 15 seconds. I hit my stop watch to see if it maintained this regularity and it did for about 6-8 cycles thenit went steady at 13+v for a couple of minutes before I turned the engine off. The next day I had to move the coach to a new site. The voltage went through the same process, about six 20 second cycles then stabilizing at 13.3-13.5v for the ten minutes it took to move. We are near Denver for now but had planned to go to the mountains for some boondocking to test my new solar installation but with this issue I decided it would be prudent to have the charging system checked out. Of course it was a Friday afternoon so finding a shop was difficult. Luckily I was able to schedule an appointment for Monday morning at a local diesel shop. Does anyone have any insight about this issue? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I have same covers and there are no holes in either side. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador One question. I noticed today that the rear A/C has four registers. Two on one side blow OK, one on other side blows a little and the other doesn’t seem to have any air movement at all. I wonder what are the possibilities of fixing this problem and where to look? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I purchased replacement top covers from eTrailer.com for my A/C units and they came with foam insulation strips cut to fit and instructions for placement. The instructions showed to attach the foam to the unit itself and not the cover. Off topic but were the IIs quieter than the Is? Dometic also sells the four gold screws to attach the cover to the base for about $22.

Recently I watched a video by a factory expert who said the units are good if they lower the temperature 16-22° between the inlet and outlets. This confirms what I have heard in the past. Ed ‘05 Ambassador Which picture is which?

The heat pump worked before the roof resealing. I don’t see how the dip switch could have been changed during that work but I will check it out when I get home. Ed ’05 HR Ambassador

I have the same but different problem. After the A/C’s were removed and reinstalled to reseal the roof the #2 unit (bedroom) would not show heat pump. Skipped from air conditioner to heater when rotating through modes. I reset the thermostat with no improvement. I can’t imagine the dip switches being changed but stranger things….. Any ideas? Interestingly, when I did a generator exercise I put the front unit on heat and the bedroom one on A/C but the rear one produced heat from the heat pump. Evidently the front unit dominates or calls the shots so you can’t select cooling on one and heat on the other. Does anyone have any insight into this? Thanks for the video of where the dip switches are. I’ll check them out when I get home. Ed. ‘05 HR Ambassador

Thanks. Those may be just right.

Has anyone found a source for safety stands for motorhomes? I’d like something to put under the rails or jack stands to protect me when working under the coach in case of a sudden air bag rupture or leveler malfunction. Or is there a better option? Ed ’05 HR Ambassador

Mine is the same as Steve’s but color. You can’t see the buttons because of the screen shade. Ed

Does this mean all Samsung refrigerators? A friend is buying an RF18 and is concerned about using his MSW inverter. Can I tell him not to worry? Ed

Pop rivets. Hadn’t thought of that. Drill just through the aluminum then shove the rivet in. It couldn’t cut into ant wires. What do others think of this? Ed

I don’t think my unit is pre-2015. I’ll check. Ed

Got the information in a call to TST Technical Support. I have the color display. Ed

OK, I don’t have any shops around here that have a handle on solar installation so I’ll have to do it myself. I’m hoping to get advice here. My HR Ambassador has an aluminum roof. I’m very afraid of drill ping and screwing into it. Can anyone answer these questions? Is there any consistency in where the factory ran the wires for the air conditioners, vent fans and lights. My rear run box is in the bedroom wall at the far rear of the coach, passenger side. Can I expect the wires to run straight line to the A/C’s or go forward on the right side of the coach then 90° to the units? Are the wires generally run just below the aluminum roof on top of all the layers of insulation and other materials or are they run below these layers just above the ceiling layer? What about the vent rant and ceiling light wiring? I’m fortunate that two of the solar panels will be left if center behind the rear A/C and one immediately to its left then one just forward of the rear A/C left of the center of the motorhome. How much should I worry? Ed ‘05 Ambassador

If I remember correctly my first system was Hopkins. So difficult to program I switched to TST. This product works well except for a couple of things. The display is not very flexible. For instance, I was tying to set it up for my two axle motorhome and toad. The display defaulted to a strange layout of front axle, then dually axle, then two tire axle then another two tire axle. Then it showed a trailer behind this. Right now that trailer doesn’t display any wheel, for some reason, probably because there are no sending units programmed for it. TST tech support said to just use that with the two rear axles as the toad. It works but if you are just driving one of the vehicles the system rotates through all of the tires which is a big waste of time. I haven’t tried it but would like to have the option of mixing and matching tow vehicle and towed vehicle in different configurations. It should be simple for TST to program the system for different situations and only display the vehicles that are being used at that time, e.g. motorhome by itself, motorhome towing toad, toad by itself, toad towing boat trailer, motorhome towing utility trailer, toad towing utility trailer. You get the point. But TST hasn’t done that. Have any of the other manufacturers? Also, the TST screen is difficult to see in bright ambient conditions. TST realized that and sells a shade that attaches to the display for too much money. Besides the fact it doesn’t help much it should be free. Ed. ‘05 HR Ambassador

That seems to be the simplest thing to do.

I’ve never read this before. Where is this information from? Not that I don’t think you have it right but I’d like to learn more.