saflyer

Does anyone know the size of the alternator on a ‘05 HR Ambassador? My coach is in the shop so I can’t access it. While I’m on the subject, what is a “smart” alternator? I read somewhere that cars and light trucks made in the last 20 years have a different design alternator from previous generations of vehicles. Could they be referring to “smart” alternators? I’d like to know the difference in these new and old alternators and what the operating characteristics are. I may install a DCDC charger for my new lithium batteries and I think the alternator type might make a difference in what charger should be used. Thanks, Ed

The problem with only going with external TPMS is when the OEM batteries die. If not replaced you are faced with a constant warning light on your dash, I assume.

Are you sure the cars don’t require battery replacement periodically? I found my 2017 Expedition does when I purchased new tires. BTW, do your cars have just the factory TPMS or add on aftermarket? Ed ’05 HR Ambassador

Walter, I'm thinking of doing what you suggest in the last paragraph. Keep it simple for now with a DC DC charger and disconnect the Trombetta for now. We don't boondock for very long so the chassis batteries should hold up between starts. Thanks, Ed

I am replacing my AGM batteries with lithium soon. I have read there is some concern about charging the lithiums from the alternator since they can draw so much current it is harmful to the alternator. I have some ideas for how to deal with that I will mention later. Right now I need an education on how my charging system currently works. My '05 HR Ambassador has a Trombetta relay that opens and closes to allow the house batteries to charge from the alternator when the chassis batteries are fully charged, as I understand. I have been told the relay closes if the alternator is supplying current and the chassis batteries reach 13.6v charge and the house batteries are 13.2v or less. Is this correct? If so what sends the signal to close the Trombetta? I'm thinking of putting a DC DC charger that has a lithium schedule in the system. I could put it in the line between the Trombetta and the house batteries. That would keep the house batteries from being able to be used to connect to the chassis batteries for starting if they were low. That brings me back to the question of what signals the Trombetta to close. Would it happen at the correct voltage for lithium batteries. Is 13.2v, if that is the number, good for lithium or should it be something else? I guess I could put the DC DC charger directly between the alternator and house batteries, bypassing the Trombetta altogether and charging the house batteries continuously. Can someone help my work my way through this? Thanks

In your earlier post I only saw that you said “chassis and house batteries”. I echo arnstrong1869’s point. Can you be more detailed? Sorry to belabor the point but it’s important. Thanks, Ed

I would have given it a nice meal then let it go.

Thanks Bob. What do you think of using the oscillating tool to remove the old tape? Good idea or too aggressive? Ed

Thanks Stephen

I’m not sure but can only assume the tape on the roof was original from the factory so don’t know if it’s Eternabond or something else. Ed ’05 HR Ambassador

I have a Holiday Rambler Ambassador with an aluminum roof. Am planning a solar installation so thought it would be a good tome to redo the seams before making them inaccessible. I’m pretty sure they need it but a shop gave me two choices, remove and replace the old 4” wide Eternabond seal running down the middle of the coach and over the seams at the end cap to roof juncture or leaving the old Sealand down and cleaning it with denatured alcohol then laying a 6” strip of Eternabond over the old. Of course the latter is much less expensive. Would that be an acceptable course of action. Also, the vents and skylights need resealing. Same question, can I just clean the old material and lay nw ever it? In that case Eternabond, Dicor self leveling or Proflex. If I remove the old sealing material what should I replace it with? If I remove the old sealant should I use the oscillating tool I have or is that too aggressive, especially on the fiberglass end caps? I’ll need to replace the air conditioner gaskets.will the A/C units need to be removed completely or just lifted enough to slide the new gaskets in?

“It is highly recommended that you follow the instructions in your owners manual foryour particular coach.” Sometimes that can be kind of hard to do when the owner’s manual says different things in different sections. My ‘05 Holiday Rambler manual doesn’t mention dropping the air before leveling in the main section but does tell you to do it in the boondocking section.

You’re such a considerate husband. Setting a lofty standard.😂

I use Eternabond but it’s not appropriate for everything. I need to know about liquid sealants.

I plan to order some Dicor sealant for the first time. I’ve read so often advice to use it for various sealing projects. But when I looked for it on Amazon I found out there are at least two products under the Dicor name, 501LSx and 551LSx where “x” apparently designates the color. From the Dicor website it appears 501LSx is self leveling and 551LSx is not. How do I determine which I need. I’m sure it depends on the project. First up is sealing such roof items as vent covers, antenna attach points and other general items on the roof. I’m hoping for some guidance on my choice. Also, what other sealants are useful on RV’s. Can someone educate me on the subject? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

At the bottom of this page: https://lionenergy.com/products/lion-safari-ut-1300 “Can I charge from an alternator?” ”Yes, the Safari UT will take too much current so you must limit it with the wire you use to charge it. For example, if you need 10-12 feet of wire, a 10-12 gauge wire will work to limit the current. Double check the actual current with a current meter and size the fuses appropriately. You may need to add fuses and other protective equipment to protect the system. To prevent possible damage to your alternator we recommend using the Redarc (Model #BCDC1225D), which is a DC-DC charger. It will safely charge your batteries while you are driving.” The BCDC1225D and fuse should take care of your question. Redarc and Renogy also have DC-DC converters that include 25-50 amp MPPT solar chargers . I’d look into them. My understanding is the alternator will charge the lithium to a lower voltage, maybe 13.6, than they want, 14.6 I think, so they are not 100% charged from the alternator. I think the bigger issue is that if the lithium batteries are depleted a significant amount, how much I don’t know, they will draw a larger current than the alternator can handle leading to it’s shortened life. You can solve this problem with wiring that has a resistance that keeps the current in check or by using one of the devices I noted above.

Not annually retightening the hold down bolts might help with an issue I have with my Wacko silencer. The inner plate Wacko supplies covers the bolts so you have to remove it to do that job. I plan to suggest Wacko put holes in that panel where bolts are but your advice might make that unnecessary.

Sorry. I see now I left out Ambassador in my original post and just said Holiday Rambler 40 PLQ. Makes a big difference in the question. i do my best proofreading after I hit send. Unfortunately I didn’t even catch it then. Thanks all for bearing with me. Ed

So, I’ve got Knight and Windsor. Can anyone break the tie? Ed

Thanks, Ed Which order are they in? Best on top or bottom? Ed

Does anyone know the equivalent Monaco model of my 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40 PLQ? Thanks, Ed

Bob, The dangling item in the first picture is in the Front distribution panel, not the battery bay. I checked and yes, it has righting that tells what it’s for. High beams and fog lights. It’s the only one of those items in the forward distribution panel. Don’t know what controls the other lights.

Bob, What I'm asking about is the black item in the first picture. It is not in the battery compartment but rather the from distribution panel. It has 4 wires as I recall, all white. They go into a wire tube that disappears into the front end cap so I can't follow them do determine what that are connected to. I was hoping someone just happened to know what it's for. Ed

OK, I've done some testing and come up confused. I the front distribution panel is an Isolator Relay Delay. Is that anything like a BIRD but not Bi-directional? There is also what appears to be the relay/solenoid for the salesman switch. One other item that is just dangling by it wires so not connected to anything that is labeled is in the picture I have attached. In the battery bay the chassis and house banks appear to be connected by a Trombetta 114 1211 020. I also have a Trik-L-Start that appears to be working properly. That was installed because I was told without a BIRD or Big Boy, or both, my chassis batteries do not charge on shore power. (In hindsight I wonder if I need the Trik-L-Start since I rarely stay in one place for long enough for the chassis batteries to get low.) Now I disconnected from shore power, turned the house battery disconnect switch off and ran the headlights to get the chassis voltage definitely below the house voltage. I had my wife turn the ignition switch to on while I was back at the battery bay. When she did I believe I heard the Trombetta clunk and there was a few seconds of muted clicking and humming then silence. I then had her push the battery boost switch. When that happened I was watching the chassis battery voltage assuming it would increase to near the house battery level. But it didn't change at all. Does this mean something isn't working properly in that switching? I need to sort this out before I proceed with installing lithium batteries and possible replacing my ME2012 inverter with, most likely, a MS2012. BTW, what might be behind the black box above the inverter in the last image? Thanks

What does a Big Boy look like? Who makes it? Does it have a model number?