saflyer

Tom, I had my coach weighed at the four points years ago but can’t find that anymore but as I recall the difference left to right wasn’t enough to make a difference in pressure. And yes, we weighed at travel weight. All of our gear, passengers, supplies, full fuel and 20 gallons of potable water. On a Cat scale it’s 10,000# front, 20,000# rear. Your table is different from the one Sumitomo gave me. The table I have has no pressures below 95 psi. At that the single weight is 5400# whereas mine imply 5000#. So steer and drive pressures would be 95 psi per my table. And, yes I checked the pressure in the shade at 75°. So, my 105 should be more correct than 115, or am I confused. BTW, the tire guru who writes for one of the RV travel email newsletters advises to add either 10psi or 10%, I don’t recall which, to the tables to allow for lower temperatures. He also does not adjust for temperatures different from 75° but I believe you should. Would it be possible to have a fuel leak while driving but not while stopped and idling? Thanks, Ed

Before my first post of this thread I fueled up at 390 miles with 72.25 gallons. This gives 5.4 mpg. But I had 124 miles of that tank on the old tires. Applying a conservative adjustment for that returns about 5 mpg. I’m fully aware of the inaccuracy of the dash gauge and a drivers inability to read it to a fine point but even allowing for 20% error gives 4 mpg. My gauge has been accurate enough over the years to have cause for concern of my current mileage. I plan to fuel up Friday at the same station which will take any difference in coach tilt out of consideration. As most know any tilt of the motorhome can make a significant difference in the amount of fuel you can squeeze in the tank. But I don’t think there is any way I’ll get near the 500 miles you suggest.

If the halfway mark on my fuel gauge is 50 gallons the mileage indicated is 3.2 (160/50). If it’s only indicating 40 gallons used that’s still no better than 4 mpg. The gauge has always been accurate. We’ll see at the next fill-up. I hope you’re right.

Fairly inaccurate but when gauge was on half mark, about 50 gallons used I had only gone 150 miles since fill-up.

Just installed a new set of Sumitomo ST719s on my coach in place of my Michelins.I haven’t done a rigorous check yet but they appear to be delivering about half the fuel mileage as the old tires. Maybe 3-3.5 mpg vs. my former 6.5-7, which was nothing to write home about. I can almost see the fuel gauge move as I drive. It’s so bad I checked for a fuel leak. Is this possible? The installers put 115 psi in all tires. I gat the Sumitomo numbers and the table ssid 95 psi so I lowered all 6 to 105 psi for this trip. Will update st my next fill up. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

One person said it’s best to buy Centramatics where they have all models in stock and do a lot of motorhomes so they can select the best ones. I don’t have that luxury but the tire shop that is installing my tires installs a lot of Centramatics on semis so I figured he could tell if they sent the right one from the local Centramatics dealer. So far so good.

Interesting. Just today someone posted on ramblinpushers.com the same thing. Seems like “belt and suspendes” idea but makes sense.

There are several different models based on wheel type. Hope they have good customer support for helping me order the right ones.

OK, I need to know more about Balance Masters. What’s the difference between them and Centramatic?

Anyone use Centramatics for balancing your steer wheels? I’m getting new tires all around and a friend advised me to go with them versus beads or spin balancing. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

What are others thoughts on the Centramatics? One friend was of the opinion bead balancing for motorhomes is not ideal since they sit so much of the time and the beads will migrate while sitting.

Well, since Toyo doesn’t make the 275/70R 22.5 anymore I checked locally and could only find Hercules and Sumitomo in my load and speed range. Current Michelins show 148/145M for these ranges. The Hercules and Sumitomo run close to each other in price, low $3000 range out the door. Any suggestions? Also, bead or spin balancing? If I go with online tires where they come to me to install I guess it will only be the bead option.

I need six new tires for my HR Ambassador, 275/70R 22.5. Running Michelins now but they’re too expensive this time around. A friend put Toyos on a few years ago for a good price.He’s happy with them. Another thread poster put Hercules on but had a harsher ride than his old ones. Nothing was said about other brands like Goodyear, Goodrich, Firestone, etc. Any sugestiona. Also, things like M144 and 11A were mentioned. Are these models or specs?

Thanks

I have no idea what lube they were originally filled with. When I need to add lube can I mix the synthetic with whatever is in it now or should I drain and start over.

Found it: Knight. Is that correct? Ed

Looked for a wiring diagram for my ‘05 HR Ambassador. The ones in files are for Monacos so I need to know the Monaco equivalent of the Ambassador. Thanks

On the advice of some on one of the forums i use I changed my front wheel hub grease fittings to the type in the picture. I don’t know what they are called so if anyone can help me with that please do. I was given the briefest insulation on checking and replenishing the fluid and have now forgotten what little I knew. Can anyone tell me how to check the level and fill if necessary and with what type of lubricant? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Found out what the lower lights are. Fog lights with a separate switch. They work.

My switch is very difficult to access the back side. I tried to look at it but can’t get a view. Did you just do it by feel?

My headlights aren’t operating. They don’t come on with high or low beam settings. Nor do the small lights on the front below the running lights. (I don’t know what those are called nor which switch position turns them on. Can someone please educate me on this?) The amber running and red tail lights work. I checked the fuse in the forward run bay and it’s good. Next I plan to check the switch. Looks like I’ll have to pull the dash to access it. What is involved in that job. I see it appears to be held in place by several screws. Will it come out after removing them or is there more to it than that? I’m concerned about the possibility of breaking the dash. Wondering if this is a job I should attempt or should I take it to the shop? I’d like to do the troubleshooting myself since it might be a simple fix. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I think we should let the original poster or moderators decide when topics have run their course. Any reader has the option of no longer visiting the topic. Ed

But isn’t there an accuracy difference if the two gauges have an obvious difference in readings?

I purchased the ScanD after my analog coolant gauge read over maximum allowable and the audible chirper sounded every time I climbed a mountain. Repeated trips to Cummins produced no record of overheating. After installing the ScanD it was obvious the analog gauge read noticeably high. All that is to say I believe I do need a device like the ScanD so I can operate the coach properly. These units are far more accurate than analog gauges. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

If possible best advice is to weigh each wheel position rather than axle then use heaviest side time 2 for the tables. But that’s not always possible to get position weights.