isptbart

On 12/4/2022 at 8:03 AM, dandick66 said:

Would you please post the new file on the site?  My son has a 3D printer and willing be able to print mine.  Thanks.

Dan

Carey - how much are you charging for these (per set?) for those members w/o printers? Thanks!

Bart from Virginia

Many thanks Carey! Can't wait to give them a try!

Bart from Virginia

Carey - I would like a copy of the file as well.

Many Thanks!

Bart from VA

Tom - hey thanks for the info! Are the modules still available in case I need a replacement? Any other such related parts I should keep in hand?I have previously taken an inventory & made note of which switch activated which module & associated channel. Now.....if I can only remember where I put that inventory! LOL!

Many thanks!

Bart from Virginia

Tom - how do I determine which multiplex system I may have on my 07 HR Scepter & whether or not it would benefit me to have on of the CPU/controlers for my coach as a backup?

Thanks!

Bart from Virginia

On 10/19/2022 at 10:25 AM, Frank McElroy said:

To keep from loosing them, I ran a small bead of caulk across the top.  It stopped the rattle and haven't lost one since.

Likewise , I have basically done the same thing but with only a dab on each end where the clip fits into the slot. I haven't yet lost any of them since I added the dab of caulking.

7 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I would be interested in your old scissors. 

I have 3 or 4 pairs if you are interested? Just contact me directly.

Bart from VA

On 1/22/2022 at 10:35 AM, Rikadoo said:

I feel your pain, couple years ago the wife an i were at one of our favorite campsites, gettin ready to call it quits for the day. It had been a peacefull day, as i stood up to roll up our awning a rouge wind came thru camp, it was just one but created soooo much damage. It ripped off one side compleatly off the rv, it bent all the poles. It took a couple hrs an several folks help me use tie straps an bailing wire to tie it to the coach to get home. I was VERY surprised to discover all the parts i needed came from amazon. On this new to me coach it takes a hot sun with no wind before i unwind this awning.

i used stainless screws when repairing my belt line, however now the other side is starting to fail, UGH!

While stainless screws will certainly work & not rust, I have been advised to only use stainless pop rivets because screws are known to back out over time due to vibrations as we head down the road. Perhaps if backed up with caulking on the threads of the screws they might stay put?

Bart from VA

All - thanks for your recommendations.  My friend is in Virginia with another batch of snow but quietly parked beside his home. I will pass on all of your suggestions & once he has discovered the cause & repair I will post the results.

Thanks!

Bart from VA

My neighbor & I have brother 2007 coaches. His is a Camelot & mine a Scepter. Upon returning from a trip, when he turned off the ignition the horn sounds. Turn on the key & it stops. Due to the time & weather, I suggested he remove the horn fuse which temporarily resolved the issue. The other neighbors are grateful! We are looking for what would cause such a problem & how to resolve?

Many Thanks in advance!

Bart from VA

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

My 2002 Windsor tank drains are on the bottom of the tanks.  Two on the front tank and one on the rear tank.  Mine are manual so I have to crawl under the coach to check them but I usually do this when I'm servicing the coach, no big deal to crack the valves to check for moisture. 

But in 2003 Monaco changed the Windsor design so your's may be different. 

 

Jim - I would think it would be an easy task for you to remove your two drain plugs/valves, replace with a 1/4" hose fitting & run the hose over to a convenient spot to access either manually with a ball valve, radiator type winged drain valve or put in a spring loaded drain valve? Then, no more crawling under the coach to drain the tanks!

 Bart from Virginia

On 12/12/2021 at 5:50 AM, Dr4Film said:

Charles,

I wasn't referring to the location as not all but most microwaves are located over the cook-top area.

However what is VERY important is exactly HOW the new microwave is mounted to the opening in order to make it VERY secure while underway. Hence my initial post.

The specific Sharps that are used in the Monaco coaches mount from the bottom to a metal plate that has been secured to the back wall. Then there are a few small sheet metal screws mounted from the sides into the adjacent cabinets that are NOT used for support. They are just secondary to the main HD bolts.

If the microwave you are wanting to purchase has mounting bolts that come down from the top then how exactly are you going to accomplish that when there isn't any top access?

Our Sharp OEM microwave/convection oven had a metal mounting bracket on the back. In addition, it had two long machine thread screws coming down from the top through the cabinet. The cabinet above the microwave has a spaced faux shelf. The faux shelf had to be removed to access the screws. When my Sharp died, I replaced it with a similar High Point microwave/convection oven which mounted almost the same way. After 3 years, the high Point died so this time I constructed a shelf to match our Cherry woodwork & I just installed a Panasonic Microwave/Convection Oven, Air Fryer, Broiler counter top model. Very pleased so far with the additional features because we no longer carry a separate Air Fryer! In addition, provides some extra space on each side if needed,

Bart from Virginia, 07 HR 42 PLQ Scepter

On 12/12/2021 at 10:01 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

Cliff,

at the risk of sounding too,simple, check the dump valve exhaust ports for dirt daubers or other obstructions. My 2006 Dip won’t dump in 90 seconds, but it does dump completely on about 2-3 min. And yes, I lived with slow dumping for about two years before I cleaned out those ports. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Where are the dump valve exhaust ports actually located? TKS!

If you have fittings with air lines located at the bottom of your air tanks, then you have drains. Air lines at the bottom are for the specific purpose to push out any moisture (when opened) - that is why they are there. You can trace your airlines to see where they go. The drain valves I had on one motor home were at the rear of the coach. The drain valves on my present coach are located up front on a brace next to my generator as shown above. I actually have 3 drain valves in a bank of four valves. In my photo above the lower two valves are only for drainage. The second valve from the top with a male fitting is actually for dual purposes; 1) the drain line for my "wet tank" & 2) can also be used for feeding air into my system from an outside source such as my shop compressor.  I used that valve to air up my coach & constantly keep air in the system in order to check for leaks - w/o running the coach engine compressor. The top valve (female air fitting) is used to charge the brake system, in the case of emergency for a tow by a wrecker, to release my emergency brakes if needed.

J - that is great! I just replaced two of my 4 air valves at the front of my RV next to the generator. I put 2 new ball valve cut-offs as an additional precaution to help prevent an air leak at those two points. About $42 total for the three parts.  See photos.

Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ

1 hour ago, tomgagne55 said:

Great analysis and solution.  Unfortunately I only have the small access door on my Diplomat so the fuel fill modification can’t be done.  However, I do plan on extending my generator fuel pick up to avoid the shutdown at 1/2 a tank (for me and my current gauge indication). If I extend the pickup 4 inches it should give me an additional 25 gallons (1/4 tank) of access for the generator.   The 1/4 tank will be more than enough to extend the generator usable range for my driving habits.  I did run my fuel down once to force the low fuel light to illuminate and will not do that again after reading all the stories regarding the accuracy of the fuel gauge.    Thanks ok-rver !

Can someone point me to the thread regarding adding an external fuel filter on a generator?   I searched and could not find it.

1 hour ago, tomgagne55 said:

Great analysis and solution.  Unfortunately I only have the small access door on my Diplomat so the fuel fill modification can’t be done.  However, I do plan on extending my generator fuel pick up to avoid the shutdown at 1/2 a tank (for me and my current gauge indication). If I extend the pickup 4 inches it should give me an additional 25 gallons (1/4 tank) of access for the generator.   The 1/4 tank will be more than enough to extend the generator usable range for my driving habits.  I did run my fuel down once to force the low fuel light to illuminate and will not do that again after reading all the stories regarding the accuracy of the fuel gauge.    Thanks ok-rver !

Can someone point me to the thread regarding adding an external fuel filter on a generator?   I searched and could not find it.

Open your small fuel door to see if by making this modification it could still work by extending the fill nozzle & slightly rotating the modification to the top of your small fuel door for filling? I can still use the small fuel door but easier for me to see everything with the full compartment door open. I have seen this done in situations such as yours. The owner just removed the compartment panel, made the modification just slightly smaller than mine, & reinstalled the compartment panel. 

37 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

So I had all but one new check valve so I put everything back together yesterday.  First time I filled the air tanks I had one bad leak from a Push To Connect fitting, I did not seat the hose far enough in so it leak to the point I could hear it.  Redid the connection and it was better, still leaked a very little.  I also had some bubbles at two small air solenoid valves.    I sprayed down every fitting from the compressor>Air Dryer, and all the fittings on the tanks and for the braking system.   

But I decided to see how the system held up overnight even with the small leaks.  The air held at 90 psi overnight even with the small leaks.  So this AM I went in and tightened up the solenoid valves and PTC fittings.  Still have a couple small bubbles, I am going to get new fittings, the two that are leaking are old fittings.  I'll see how the pressure holds up over the next couple days. 

After I get the new check valve and two new fittings I think I'll my air leakage problem solved.

FWIW, I checked the prices on the fittings I bought locally and it appears they are far cheaper then what I can buy on line.  So sometimes it does pay to shop locally. 

 

Now onto the next project. 

Great! Mine is holding about the same pressures overnight! So moving on to other pre-trip list items! Bart from VA

BTW - this modification requires me to fully open my basement compartment fuel door verses the small locking fuel door. So park your rig at the pump to accommodate your compartment door swing.  I can also support the fueling nozzle now on my door gas spring rod which keeps it in place. Sometimes I use a small bungee as well so at auto-fuel cutoff it doesn't pop out. Towards the last quarter tank filling, I reduce the fuel speed to cut down on diesel fuel foaming too! I also have the 3 point hydraulic leveling & I find it too much of a problem to lean the RV too much & most importantly the DW inside doesn't like it either. I like to take precautions about unnecessarily leaning or twisting the coach in relation to the many posted windshield issues - so I just don't take too many chances with that!

PS - In case your fuel tank is different than mine, before you cut off your existing fuel tank filler tube I suggest you do a dry assembly of the parts to check your particular needs for a best modification for your coach! Getting ready to leave for our extended winter trip in the Southwest!

Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ Scepter, 07 GMC 2500HD in tow

1 minute ago, isptbart said:

BTW - this modification requires me to fully open my basement compartment fuel door verses the small locking fuel door. So park your rig at the pump to accommodate your compartment door swing.  I can also support the fueling nozzle now on my door gas spring rod which keeps it in place. Sometimes I use a small bungee as well so at auto-fuel cutoff it doesn't pop out. Towards the last quarter tank filling, I reduce the fuel speed to cut down on diesel fuel foaming too! I also have the 3 point hydraulic leveling & I find it too much of a problem to lean the RV too much & most importantly the DW inside doesn't like it either. I like to take precautions about unnecessarily leaning or twisting the coach in relation to the many posted windshield issues - so I just don't take too many chances with that!

PS - In case your fuel tank is different than mine, before you cut off your existing fuel tank filler tube I suggest you do a dry assembly of the parts to check your particular needs for a best modification for your coach! Getting ready to leave for our extended winter trip in the Southwest!

Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ Scepter, 07 GMC 2500HD in tow

Ooops! Forgot to try to rotate my coach Covid ready photo! :>)

OK-RVR - I also always try to fill from the high side, because you can't get a full tank from the low side.  So, here is what I did to modify both of my fill nozzles & I can now get a full tank most every time. It takes a little time, but well worth it to me! Since I wanted to modify both fill nozzles I made purchases in order to have enough pieces for two assemblies. First, I stuffed a slightly oil soaked plug (rag on a rope) into the fill nozzle as deep as possible. Then I took my power band saw & cut off my fill nozzle about 2" from the tank itself (don't cut off your rag plug rope!). I purchased about 8" of 2"ID fuel hose & cut into 2 - 4" pieces. I purchased 2 brass 3" nipples.  I purchased a 6" brass nipple (2") & cut in half. I purchased 2 - 45 degree 2" brass fittings. I took a file & smoothed out all brass cut surface edges. I purchased 8 good quality hose clamps. Carefully remove the rag plug + pulling out all of the band saw cuttings. NOTE: I connected a heavy duty magnet to the remaining fill tank stub & it caught a few lingering shavings, but I was very careful to not let the shavings fall into the tank. Other plugging methods could also be used to catch the loose shavings.

Assembly per side: Put a 4" fuel fuel hose on the tank stub & secure with two hose clamps. Using a good quality diesel fuel compatible thread sealer & install 1 fully threaded nipple on one end of the 45 degree fitting & the other 3" cut nipple on the other end of the 45 degree fitting & tighten all securely. Put the assembly into the open end of the fuel hose putting the unthreaded piece into the hose & clamp with two hose clamps - after you rotate the assembly for the best angle for filling. Basically the unthreaded brass fitting will come close to mating up with the nipple stub on your tank with all secured with the hose clamps. On the remaining brass fitting end you just screw on your regular tank cap. I let the thread sealant set for a day for drying time. Duplicate these actions on the other side & you are ready to go to top off the tank. Works great for me & I can usually easily top off my fuel tank. However, now with the extra fuel the tank level sensor is initially confused because of basically initially over-filling in respect to the original OEM full tank setting at a lower level. Before I bought brass fittings, I did local comparisons verses online pricing & found I could order the brass fittings locally much cheaper & get them in about 3 days. Do your research & price comparisons. I spent about $60 total for the modifications of both sides of the tank. PS - Brass fittings are more expensive, but I initially tried cheaper black pipe fittings first, but they began to rust, so I changed out to the brass fittings & no more potential rust issues.  

Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ Scepter, 07 GMC 2500HD in tow

Thanks for the fitting purchase leads guys!

Bart from VA 

9 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

The purge valve on the bottom of the air dryer.

OK - Thanks! Bart

10 hours ago, Jimmer said:

What was your procedure of refitting the leaking line?

The brass fitting is the quick release type! Push the exterior ring (at the base of the fitting where the hose goes into the fitting) towards the fitting & gently pull out the hose. I removed the fitting & replaced with a new fitting after trying to reuse the old fitting (old fitting still leaked - not the hose). DO NOT USE Teflon take - use only a liquid/paste thread sealant & don't apply any too close to the threaded open end of the fitting. Trim off about an 1" of hose (if you have excess hose) & push in the hose as far in as it will go. Build up air pressure & use spray soapy water to test for a proper fit & no leaks.

Bart from VA

26 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Bart, from my personal experience of many, many hours trying to solve my air leakage problems on my "vintage" 2000 Dynasty, I will offer the following OPINION.

The PTC (push-to-connect) fittings have been used (are still used?) on hundreds of commercial vehicles.  If there was ever an industry-wide recall, I am not aware of it.  In the vast majority of cases in which they are INSTALLED PROPERLY, they give good service for decades.

There is, however, one easy-to-make mistake in installation--not having enough of the nylon tubing extending STRAIGHT out of the fitting.  Proper sealing of the fitting requires that the tubing exits STRAIGHT from the fitting for at least a few inches (longer is better). 

On my coach, perhaps the most unlikely leak came from my treadle valve (air brake "master cylinder").  It was not (IMO) the treadle valve itself that was leaking, but I had determined conclusively the treadle valve was the GENERAL location of a serious leak--so much so that on an extremely quiet day I could HEAR the leak.  Since even servicing the fittings to the treadle valve required an unusually small person who was also a contortionist, this was one of the few jobs I ever let my trusted heavy-truck shop do for me...and I had them replace not only ALL the treadle valve fittings, but also the treadle valve itself.  I asked the talented contortionist to look closely for one thing--ANY lines exiting the treadle valve that did not exit with PLENTY of extra "slack", such that they were not being pulled to one side of the fitting as they exited.  I provided him with multiple replacement fittings of every conceivable type, couplers, and properly colored tubing.  I told him that if he found ANY tubing which did not exit in a gentle, generous arc, to either replace the tubing or add a couple of inches and lengthen it.  Luckily, that made his job much easier.  He later reported to me that ALL the tubing connected to the treadle valve seemed to have been cut too short and was leaving the fittings at an immediate angle.

By the time I had (at last) resorted to using someone to help me with this, I had replaced all three ride-height valves, ALL PPV (pressure protection valves), the parking brake valve, and a couple of PTC fittings.  I still had a leak that would drain my tanks down to 30 PSI overnight and settle my coach on its stops in three days.  The treadle valve "fix" changed it all to the point that I can now leave the coach parked in my shed (at my house) for weeks at a time before the instrument panel gage reads less than 60 PSI.

Bart, as I look at the pix you provided, I would predict that the yellow line in the far-right of your pix will be the next to cause a leak problem.  The PTC fittings are reliable...but the lines connected to them MUST not be at an angle or in a bind.  If they are, one or more of them will INEVETIBLY be the source of a leak.

If you are truly (anally?) committed to eliminating ALL leaks (as I was), you will replace many fittings/hoses/devices that do NOT appear to be a problem.  IMHO, once your coach can maintain 60 PSI overnight, and your suspension bags have not lowered your coach to its stops, your air system is OK.  Whether you expend the dollars and hours to make it 99% versus 90% is up to you.

Bless you in either path you choose.

Great advice! I tried to purchase extra fittings today but my NAPA shop was out & on back order. They also only had 3/8" air hose in black - I bought a piece anyway for a backup or for future use. Many Thanks! Bart

Bart

12 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

Fwiw,  it’s highly unlikely that you’re air drier fixed itself!

 

 We purchased a new to us 05 Dynasty in September, first thing I did was serviced the air dryer and replaced the purge valve and desiccant, after the rebuild it was crisp when it purged, if that makes sense, after the rebuild you can hear the difference! At least I could.

I don't think it fixed itself - I just said it didn't repeat the extended hissing noise after re-filling the tank. Perhaps it was the additional purge cycle that happens when the air back flows to help dry out the air dryer desiccant filter?

In any case, the tanks did hold their pressure over-night!

Thanks! 

12 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

Fwiw,  it’s highly unlikely that you’re air drier fixed itself!

 

 We purchased a new to us 05 Dynasty in September, first thing I did was serviced the air dryer and replaced the purge valve and desiccant, after the rebuild it was crisp when it purged, if that makes sense, after the rebuild you can hear the difference! At least I could.

BTW - you replaced which purge valve from where? From the air dryer itself or a different valve somewhere?

Thanks! Bart

Jim - good point on the purge/drying cycle!!!! I just checked this morning & my air tank pressures held steady over-night after changing out a leaking 3/8" air line fitting. Finally making progress with the air system! Thanks for your help!

Bart from VA

4 hours ago, Jimmer said:

My original equipment Meritor Wabco PPV does not have a DOT stamped on it.

My red and green needles drop uniformly even though my rear tank has a leak but no leaks on the front tank. So maybe there is a common location/fitting shared by both tanks that is leaking both tanks down.  I do not hear air leaking even with my hearing aid turned to max sensitivity, but.

Maybe at the air dryer exhaust port, like Bart mentioned.

Any ideas out there where i should go next.

 

did you do something to fix the air dryer exhaust port to get it working again.

I could hear the hissing leak from the air dryer exhaust port. I had previously attached a flexible hose to the outlet port which directs the air purge down closer to the ground, so easy to hear via the flexible tube. All I did was re-pressurize it back to 115# & when I turned off the key, no more hissing. Perhaps the purge dislodged something to make it seal again properly? Bart

38 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

I might have posted this before but I’ll post it again, it sounds like you may have to rebuild the purge valve, easy pezy!

 

https://www.wabco-customercentre.com/catalog/docs/mm34_web.pdf

Hey thanks! Bart