isptbart

Jim - I just did a complete spray down for as many fittings as I could find. The last place I checked was a bank of fittings at the rear of my coach & I found an air fitting leaker going to the tag axle pressure regulator. After replacing the air fitting & airing up the coach pressure again - after turning everything off I discovered air coming out of my Air Dryer exhaust port. It leaked out for about a minute & both tank air pressure gauges dropped from about 115# to approximately 80# & then it just stopped. I re-pressurized the tank again & did a re-check of the Air Dryer, but no more leakage so far. BTW, I also found what looks like a small air tank, about the size of a small metal coffee can, located up high above the rear axle too! I had no idea it was there! Will check pressures again in the morning!

Bart from VA

Jim - I just did a search & got 4,000+ results. Can you narrow down what I should be searching for?

Thanks!

Bart from VA

Jim posted a good air schematic for Monaco. Very useful, but I would like to find a similar set for the 2007 year for Monaco or Holiday Rambler if at all possible. Kindly post such a schematic PDF file if you have one or send to me & I will post.   Many Thanks!                                                                                                                                                                      Bart from VA                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              2007 HR 42PLQ Scepter                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            2007 GMC 2500HD in tow

ALL - 

Re: Tag Axle Issue - UPDATE! 12/03/2021
From: Bart from VA
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2021 21:06:11 EST

ALL - I was finally able to get my RV in the shop & after some serious searching - they replaced a Preventative Pressure Valve (PPV), Wabco #4341003100, my Meritor Wabco Air Dryer Filter R950011 or NAPA Gold Filter #4374, & most importantly one of my Tag Axle air canister diaphragms WRP Type 30. The diaphragm was the" main source" of the problem because over time it had blown out an edge of the seal, resulting in enough of a leak that the tag axle could not operate. My air canisters are located in an extremely difficult & unusual location but raising the coach, removing a tag wheel & with the tech working on his knees & stretching up at arms length made it possible. The tag now raises properly, but I still have other leak(s) which causes the rear tank to almost totally drain overnight. It is a small but steady leak which takes hours but I still want to try to track them down! The tech pointed out neither of my two air tanks have a way to drain the tanks w/o actually removing drain plugs & suggested I could add one of the various spring-loaded air tank drain valves to make things easy. I'm looking for the best style for my potential use. Does anyone else have such a valve installed on their air tanks?

7 hours ago, RichardA said:

Mine only worked with 120 volt shore power 

2008 Holiday Rambler Ambassador

 

Richard - strange, my 07 HR Scepter is 12V,

My bushing was very worn out & I finally found it in the bottom of my door after disassembling. I turned a new one & installed & all work great with no issues from my DW! I later found a premade bushing from Lowes as follows: Lowes has a Hillman #215870 1/4x3/8x15  Package of two & they are about perfect for our needs!

Bart from VA                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            07 HR 42PLQ, GMC 2500HD in tow                         

4 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

All models / years didn't come with these catch cups.

I have none on any slides.

Catch cups? Not sure to what you are referring?

Catch cups? Not sure to what you are referring?

Bart

On 9/1/2021 at 9:48 PM, isptbart said:

Hi All! I experienced the same problem, same symptoms & difficult to open from the outside, I did all of the external & then internal adjustments. Finally found out about the brass bushing & mine was almost completely worn out. I turned another bushing to spec. & that solved all of my problems. Sure was happy to just have to replace a simple brass bushing!

Bart from VA

07 HR 42PDQ w/ GMC 2500 HD in tow

While I turned my own bronze bushing, I later found an off the shelf bushing which I think is close to the required dimensions in order to work. It is a Hillman product from Lowes Item # 215870  Model #882991. It now shows as having 2 set screws, but mine has no set screws. Came as a package of 2. My door would not work properly w/o a bushing & trying to get the door latch adjusted w/o a bushing might work, but steel to steel would cause unnecessary wear & tear on your latch assembly.

6 hours ago, Corkman said:

I'm glad to have read your (Steve P) post about the "missing" bushing. I too do not have a bushing on mine, I was wondering if I ever had one.

Steve P - did you make a final determination that you, in fact, were missing the bushing? Did you find one, or make one, that worked, installed it, and it solved the problem? Before I go down that rabbit hole I wanted to see what you have learned?

While I turned my own bronze bushing, I later found an off the shelf bushing which I think is close to the required dimensions in order to work. It is a Hillman product from Lowes Item # 215870  Model #882991. It now shows as having 2 set screws, but mine has no set screws. Came as a package of 2. My door would not work properly w/o a bushing & trying to get the door latch adjusted w/o a bushing might work, but steel to steel would cause unnecessary wear & tear on your latch assembly.

Bart from VA

14 hours ago, isptbart said:

James - I'm not sure of the caulking, but from your first photo you have a potential MAJOR problem beginning to show on your exterior slide floor. Monaco's with the narrow edge trim are known to fail, resulting in leaks & then major deterioration of the floor. Your first photo shows the beginning of such a failure. I had to install S/S Guardian Plates (from Talin industries (352) 942-2653) on my 4 slide exterior floors to properly seal & prevent damages. I suggest you check this area out immediately! Since I found out about the issue, I look at other Monaco products & the majority of coaches with the narrow edge trim are failing in various stages.

Bart from VA., 07 HR 42PLQ w/GMC 2500HD in tow

 

James - I attached 4 photos of my Guardian Plates for your info!

Bart from VA

On 9/11/2021 at 8:23 PM, jbret06 said:

Hello,  I have a 2008 Knight PDQ and need some help identifying the type of  'sealant caulking' Monaco used under the slides.  I've attached three pictures.  This is looking up under the roadside bedroom slide.  On our last trip to the midwest, I had a leak on the frontside bottom of this slide and upon inspection it looks to me like there are some holes and voids in the caulking right at the corner.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

James Bradley   

James - I'm not sure of the caulking, but from your first photo you have a potential MAJOR problem beginning to show on your exterior slide floor. Monaco's with the narrow edge trim are known to fail, resulting in leaks & then major deterioration of the floor. Your first photo shows the beginning of such a failure. I had to install S/S Guardian Plates (from Talin industries (352) 942-2653) on my 4 slide exterior floors to properly seal & prevent damages. I suggest you check this area out immediately! Since I found out about the issue, I look at other Monaco products & the majority of coaches with the narrow edge trim are failing in various stages.

Bart from VA., 07 HR 42PLQ w/GMC 2500HD in tow

On 9/11/2021 at 8:23 PM, jbret06 said:

Hello,  I have a 2008 Knight PDQ and need some help identifying the type of  'sealant caulking' Monaco used under the slides.  I've attached three pictures.  This is looking up under the roadside bedroom slide.  On our last trip to the midwest, I had a leak on the frontside bottom of this slide and upon inspection it looks to me like there are some holes and voids in the caulking right at the corner.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

James Bradley   

James - I'm not sure of the caulking, but from your first photo you have a potential MAJOR problem beginning to show on your exterior slide floor. Monaco's with the narrow edge trim are known to fail, resulting in leaks & then major deterioration of the floor. Your first photo shows the beginning of such a failure. I had to install S/S Guardian Plates (from Talin industries (352) 942-2653) on my 4 slide exterior floors to properly seal & prevent damages. I suggest you check this area out immediately! Since I found out about the issue, I look at other Monaco products & the majority of coaches with the narrow edge trim are failing in various stages.

Bart from VA., 07 HR 42PLQ w/GMC 2500HD in tow

On 8/31/2021 at 12:03 PM, Dr4Film said:

I had Shade Pro replace all of my awning material on the entire coach back in 2009 while staying in California. Well they only lasted a few years before the thread and stitching started to come apart. The large slide-topper awning got so bad that they had to resew it in 2014 but it was a total waste of money and time.

I then found Stone Vos Inc. in Florida and ordered all new material in 2015 and had Elkart RV install the material on my way back from Alaska. Stone Vos is the ONLY shop I would trust as they have the very BEST material, they use LIFETIME thread and also do double stitching plus they have the BEST warranty in the business..

If you go any place other than Stone Vos you are simply throwing your money into the wind.

I totally agree with this post! Chris & his company are in my opinion the best for my RV! Top quality materials, knowledge & service. I have done it myself & I could save money but I would rather drive from Virginia & have Chris do it rather than to do it again myself - regardless of the money saved.

Bart from VA

Hi All! I experienced the same problem, same symptoms & difficult to open from the outside, I did all of the external & then internal adjustments. Finally found out about the brass bushing & mine was almost completely worn out. I turned another bushing to spec. & that solved all of my problems. Sure was happy to just have to replace a simple brass bushing!

Bart from VA

07 HR 42PDQ w/ GMC 2500 HD in tow

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

Bart,

I recognize your old 2007 remote as the early Trimark system which you already found is out of production.  However, you can purchase an aftermarket programmable remote for it.  

I purchased a new Remocon RMC-105 universal remote fob from:
https://www.cruisingforremotes.com/
They preset the frequency (on the back of the old remote) and I programmed it to my original Trimark RF receiver using the steps in post #21 in the link below.   It locks, unlocks, and also lights the entry lights.
The FCC ID is: JLFTX4 310mhz

Read post # 22.  https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/help-with-trimark-key-fob-programming-324146-2.html 

Let me know if you have any more questions?

Vito - many thanks for the info! I will certainly check this recommendation out!

Bart from VA

Vito - many thanks for the info! I will certainly check this recommendation out!

Bart from VA

4 hours ago, michaelivan said:

Bart,

Mine has the Essex system.

Michael - OK, thanks!

Bart from VA

Thanks to you all for this suggestion! My key less entry fob remote system is made by Tri-Mark. I will followup on this lead!

Bart from VA!

6 hours ago, michaelivan said:

This is what I found that works with my 03 Windsor. 

https://www.ebay.com/c/2213305671

Michael ,

Is your fob system by Tri-Mark?

Thanks! Bart

When I purchased my 07 HR Scepter the dealer passed on to me a well-worn & taped up non-functional Key Fob. After contacting the previous owner, I was told 3 key Fobs were given to the dealer, two of which were unused & I ended up with only the one. The dealer denies ever having the additional fob so I'm at a dead end with him.
Therefore, I'm searching for a replacement. I have been told by several suppliers my fob is out of production & no longer available. I have contacted a couple of RV salvage yards with no success thus far. Therefore, I'm reaching out to a couple of RV forums to see if I can find one. Attached is a photo of mine. Th back of the case is marked as a JLFTX4. I had to add the small bolt in the center in order to keep the two-piece fob together after removing the tape.  If anyone out there is willing to part with one or can supply me with a lead for one it would be greatly appreciated! OK to contact me off-line at Itrackm @ Verizon dot net

Many Thanks!

Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ Scepter

Ray - I fought this opening the door problem from the outside until it got to the point I couldn't routinely open the door for my wife. I had previously lubed, adjusted, tech adjusted, etc. I finally took the door apart & found the latching bushing had completely worn out & was now AWOL! I mostly followed the advice of the "Door Bushing Replacement & Latch file "Before" the ACE Hardware bushing revision was added, I ended up turning my own bushing & now anyone can easily open the door unless it is locked! My wife is so happy! (Me Too!).  Just a little time consuming, but not a difficult project. Be sure to have a person help you with the door window, as purchasing a replacement for that is expensive in comparison to a small bushing. Wish I had attempted to tackled the project months ago!

Bart from VA                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   07 HR 42 PLQ

Larry - I agree with most of the posts. I installed the Safe T Steer Plus on my coach myself - which was not a problem. An easy install and just ensure you tighten the bolts to spec. Test driving & fine tuning the system is a must! You need to install, test drive, adjust, test drive, & re-adjust as necessary. Installed mine two years ago & all is still well. I did not need to re-align the front end. I did not feel the Henderson Trim was necessary for me.  My TRW box was properly adjusted.  While it does help with staying on a straight track, the main reason for my install was for blow-out assistance, if ever needed.

Bart from VA

On our return trip home from NV I began to experience an intermittent problem with my Power Gear Electronic Leveling System. The problem is - after I set the brake & turn on the leveling system at the keypad, I get a blinking light warning to "Engage Parking Brake". No leveling options will work while I get this flashing light! As a result, I have to leave the coach as is for the night w/o the ability to level. Does anyone know what could be the problem, part to replace or even the possibility as to how I can effectively wire up a work around? Since I have a Brake light on the dash I would like to just wire a work-around to bypass this issue.
Suggestions please.
Thanks!
Bart from VA
07 HR 42PLQ Scepter - 400 ISL
07 GMC 2500HD in tow