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MSHappyCampers

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Posts posted by MSHappyCampers

    Henry Tropi-Cool roof coating

    in Body, Awning, Roof, Slides, & Steps

    Posted

    14 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

    sounds like you are looking for something like this:

    https://dicorproducts.com/product/coolcoat/

    I have heard "ceramic" coatings work, not sure about "silicone"..... I have no experience or affiliation with either product

    But I do know a pole barn roof over your RV will keep it lots cooler! 🙂

    Ken

    Yup, but it's really hard to carry those pole barns when traveling! 🙂

    8 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

    I cleaned my roof then used almost 4ish gallons to paint it with, i did not measure temps cause i was looking for a good seal. I can tell you during the heat of the day you put your hand onnthe roof its not as hot before. The only thing i dont care for is when you go up on the roof to wash it off, when you put soap on it it is sooooooo slick its almost a hazard

    IMG_4481.MOV

    0B6416CD-6834-4E8E-9937-ED82280C9F70.jpeg

    4C36F004-D524-45A2-BFCB-A73352C73C72.jpeg

    Could you tell any difference in the ability to keep it cool inside?

    ISC350 air filter

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted · Edited by MSHappyCampers

    4 hours ago, Chuck B said:

    The reason why Monaco decided to use the clamp they used.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

    My intake hose came apart when I tried to remove it, but it just had standard stainless-steel hose clamps, nothing special.  I can't say if the clamps were around the part of the hose with the wire spiral or if the ends of the hose did not have the wire. ???

    ISC350 air filter

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    1 minute ago, Dr4Film said:

    Joe, I used the original special clamp that came from the factory and installed it the same way as they did. You don't want to over tighten the clamp causing it to distort the intake of the air filter. Besides it's the output side that is VERY important to make sure it is completely sealed. Not so important with the input side as the air filter will still do its job.

    Mine just has the stainless steel hose clamps, like you would buy at Lowes, etc.  .  Guess I'm looking for problems where where are none!  Thanks!

    ISC350 air filter

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

    Joe, I replaced my cracked 7 inch intake hose back in 2019 with the same product that I had found on eBay. It was sold by the foot and for my installation I needed two feet. It was $11.50 per foot with $18 shipping.

    This is what I purchased. 7''ID RFH HOSE/DUCTING BLACK THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER WIRE HELIX, Sold by The Foot

    Here is the current vendor on eBay that is selling the same product for $5.75 per foot and about $20 shipping.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/254178319698?hash=item3b2e355d52:g:iqoAAOSwYvFZGxP1

    Richard, since it looks like this hose is not smooth inside, was there any problem getting the clamps tight enough to no air escapes around them?

    ISC350 air filter

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

    Joe, I replaced my cracked 7 inch intake hose back in 2019 with the same product that I had found on eBay. It was sold by the foot and for my installation I needed two feet. It was $11.50 per foot with $18 shipping.

    This is what I purchased. 7''ID RFH HOSE/DUCTING BLACK THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER WIRE HELIX, Sold by The Foot

    Here is the current vendor on eBay that is selling the same product for $5.75 per foot and about $20 shipping.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/254178319698?hash=item3b2e355d52:g:iqoAAOSwYvFZGxP1

    Thanks Richard!  I just ordered 3' of it and that saved me a few bucks, plus I don't have to drive 130 miles to get it! 👍

    ISC350 air filter

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    7 hours ago, throgmartin said:

    I change my air filter every 3 years. I did have one instance where I changed it after a year because of some bad dusty conditions I got into.

    Changing a filter is straight forward and fairly easy but you have to pay close attention to making sure you get a good seal. My son uses a small amount of Boeshield T-9 to help it slip over the intake housing and promote sealing.

    Unlike gas engines, a diesel engine sucks massive amounts of air during operation. Because of this you can dust an engine off in a heartbeat if you do not get a good seal. I have had 2 customers who both dusted off their 400 ISL's because of an improperly sealed air filter. Both times were done by a mechanic who got the air filter cocked and not properly sealed in the housing. One of the dust off's occurred after 30 days of use. Dirty air injection in a diesel can ruin it real fast. I might add that an in frame rebuild for a 400 ISL is currently around $ 22,000. It pays to make sure your filter is set correctly and is air tight. Take your time and double check the seating of the filter.

    I remember a Cummins spokesperson at the Gathering one year discussed air filter changes and said 3 years was max. He also said to get away from annual filter changes and stick to every 2 years. I have a brand new air filter sitting in my workroom I am going to be tossing out. It is 8 years old and for the life of me I cannot remember where I got it. It is still in a bag and in the original box but I am not going to risk using it. I have so many dang parts for my coach laying around I end up forgetting where I got them and worse yet I forget I even have them. Many came off the old Monaco parts truck they used to take to rally's. They used to give amazing deals off the back of that truck. I have 3 brand new air control valves with a receipt for $ 60 for all 3. I have a huge bag of those gold cabinet door spring hinges I got off the parts truck. The receipt said $ 1.50 each. I sure miss that parts truck. 🙂

    Sent you a PM

    Well, I think I have the problem solved!  The Donaldson P537448 is the replacement I need, and I am ordering it from Amazon.  The intake hose split in two places when I tried to get it off!  After a LOT of searching I found an industrial hose wholesaler about 65 miles away that has the 7" ID wire-reinforced hose and will sell me what I need for about $46.  

    Thanks to all of your for your help!  🙂

    Joe

     

    ISC350 air filter

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    We bought our 2002 Windsor 40PBT in 2012 and have never changed the air filter!  I have constantly monitored the indicator and it has never shown needing replacement.  I was told by a reputable source that the filter should be changed every 2 years, regardless of what the indicator says.  I respect the opinions of the folks here and would appreciate your input.

    1.  Should I replace it ASAP?  If so, what is the correct part number?

    2.  Should I replace the indicator?  If so, what is the correct part number?

    3.  Can I do the replacement myself?  If so, what is the correct procedure?

    Thank you for your help!  👍

    Joe

    Difference in RM8H and RR8S ?

    in Chassis, Handling, Tires & Brakes

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

    Joe,

    You are lucky in that your 02 Windsor chassis is the RM8H and not the RR8S. Plus it is also called the S- Series Chassis which is the Semi-Monocoque Chassis that is described here -  https://docplayer.net/22482555-Roadmaster-s-series-semi-monocoque-chassis.html

    The RM8H simply stands for Roadmaster 8 Bag (H-??) Don't know what the H stands for though.

    The RR8S Chassis is a Raised Rail 8 bag with a side Radiator. Whereas the RR8R is the Raised Rail 8 Bag Rear Radiator.

    Hope this helps!

    I read that the "H" is for H frame.  I think that must be what is called an "I" beam in the construction trades.

    My genny is demon-possessed!

    in Generators

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

    Joe,

    Be very careful using that procedure as that is exactly what I had been doing based on some recommendations here on Monacoers by members who stated that it would possibly clear any debris from getting caught in the Lock-Valve preventing it from working. Bottom-line I eventually burned up some strategic part inside the motor by doing that each time I ran the slide in.

    Mike at Affordable Hose & Fittings repaired the motor for me PLUS he installed an Auto-Resetting Circuit Breaker inline with the positive side of the power wire. Now if I hold the switch for too long the circuit breaker trips to protect the motor from failing once again.

    Thanks for the heads-up Richard!  I plan to only do it once in each direction, and only for a couple of seconds.  🙂

    My genny is demon-possessed!

    in Generators

    Posted

    Someone on another forum suggested holding the button down for an extra 2-3 seconds at each end of travel.  That's supposed to get rid of air in the lines.  I'm going to try that first.  Thanks for your suggestions!  🙂

    Joe

    My genny is demon-possessed!

    in Generators

    Posted

    Well, not quite that bad!  I am having a problem with the generator slide-out creeping out while we are driving.  Not much, maybe an inch at most.  When this happens it creates a funny-sounding wind noise that we can hear, so we know immediately what has happened.  The slide-out is hydraulic.  Has anyone had this problem?  Thanks for your comments!

    Joe

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