MSHappyCampers

4 hours ago, Jim Bob said:

My question is.... how do you get that cabinet out?  I've looked at it and really can't find where it is attached.  I've considered cutting it in place, but have not gotten brave enough for that yet.  95 Dynasty with the head knocker on the left over the drivers seat.

My center section was secured with screws through the sides and top.  

16 hours ago, Dennis H said:

 

GREAT IDEA: A Hobby section!!

I've had a couple but have not been satisfied with any of them. Unfortunately the cheapy ones don't perform as advertised....just my opinion. Also, the cheapy ones won't fly in even the slightest breeze. Furthermore, many campgrounds are now outlawing them. Most California State Parks have them banned. They're allowed at the beach in some locations but the wind off the ocean makes flying them impossible. That said, the $1500 and up ones seem to be able to do at least what I want them to do, but I'm too cheap to spend that kind of money for something I'm pretty sure I'm gonna crash.... 🙂 I still have a jet I want to fly if I ever get the guts. It's still in the box.....Dennis

On edit: If you want to use the camera, make sure you get one that is mounted on a gimbal for stability...D

 

Hi Dennis!  The SG906 Pro has the 2-axis gimbal camera which can be moved up and down from the remote.  It's a really big drone and the reviews say it can handle wind better than most.  Because of it's weight I have to register it with the FAA.   I tried a couple of the really cheap ones and they were worth about what I paid for them!  

Joe

Not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but didn't see a forum for hobbies.  Please move this post if I'm in the wrong forum.

I have wanted to get a drone for quite a while, but didn't want to spend big bucks for something that I wasn't sure I would enjoy and continue doing.  I wanted to keep the cost under $200 and get as many features as possible for that amount.  I found the Beast SG906 Pro that seems to have good reviews and most of the features I wanted.  Has anyone here bought that drone, and if so, what is your honest opinion of it?  I ordered one that is supposed to be delivered on July 27th.  https://www.banggood.com/ZLRC-SG906-Pro-5G-WIFI-FPV-With-4K-HD-Camera-2-Axis-Gimbal-Optical-Flow-Positioning-Brushless-RC-Drone-Quadcopter-RTF-p-1628944.html?gmcCountry=US&currency=USD&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_bgs&utm_content=frank&utm_campaign=frank-ssc-us-all-0418&ad_id=431928166734&ID=6270307531930&cur_warehouse=CN

Thanks for any comments and opinions!  

Joe

16 hours ago, saflyer said:

The TV behind the couch is exactly what I’d like to do. Have questions such a did the couch need to be moved out from the wall, is the couch on a slide and if so how did you get antennae cable to it, etc.  I’ll be in touch.

 

Thanks,

Ed

Hi Ed!  I moved the couch out from the wall about 6".   The couch is in our main slideout.  I had to run an HDMI cable from the surround sound receiver to the TV.  I ran the cable down the windshield post, underneath  above the storage bays, through the PVC pipe that carries cables into the slideout, up into the bottom of the cabinets next to the kitchen table, then across to the TV.  That was the hardest part!  

I removed the old TV from above the dash and had a cabinet shop rework the overhead cabinets to be the same level all the way across.  Got tired of banging my head on that thing every time I went in the MH!  

I mounted a 43" flat screen behind the couch on a remote-controlled motorized lift so we can watch TV from our recliners directly across from it.  

If you want details on how it did it then you can give me an e-mail and I'll send them to you.

Joe

We switched from Direct TV to Dish back in September 2019 to save $33 per month with more channels.  There are some features on the remote that we don't like, but the pros far outweigh the cons!  We put a Hopper 3 in the house and a Wally with tailgater antenna , OTA adapter, and external hard drive in the MH.  I mounted the Tailgater on a King MB700 quick-release mount to be able to quickly move it to a portable tripod when needed.  

5 hours ago, piercelarry69 said:

Have a 2001 Windsor with stabilizers  an had a right front blow out an no problem took foot off gas  did not use brake  an came to a stop in median 

Were you using the SteerSafe stabilizers?

I replaced the struts on our 2002 Windsor a while back.  They are 160 Lbs each.  🙂

5 hours ago, Steven P said:

Just an update.  I had to use 2 different length double bulb wipers. One from Steele Rubber and one from AP Products. The one from AP is clearly a softer rubber, but I believe this will work.  I used Loctite 495 to join the corners together and all that's left is to put the new topper from Talin RV on. I also replaced the ribbed seals and used black proflex rv caulk along the edges. 

Steve, what is the white strip that seems to be holding the seal up off the roof?

Just heard that Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, passed away from Covid 19!  He will be greatly missed.  Praying for his family.  

12 hours ago, fleurdane said:

Here is one suggestion from You Tube if you are handy.  Maybe it will fix the problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hodV_rjXQJY

Diane

I'm not getting any sound on that video.  Is is OK for you?

6 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Why did you give up on the Mobley?

I was having the same problem as most others with having to reset it at least once a day.  The 815S solved that problem, until now!  🙂

I just moved the SIM card from the Mobley to the 815S.

I have a Netgear 815S that I bought a year or so ago to replace a Mobley.  It has worked great until the last few weeks.  It is losing the SIM code.  At first I was having to reset the code every day or so.  Now I'm having to reset it several times a day!  I have done the factory reset on the 815S and re-seated the SIM card.  I'm not sure if the problem will be the SIM card or the 815S.  Thinking it's most likely the 815S.  Wondered if any of you have had this problem.  Thanks!

Joe

HAPPY EASTER!  🙂

Gary, that's amazing!  Great job!  🙂

Joe

8 minutes ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Joe

Testing showed what I thought was black mold in my ceiling material was "diesel exhaust residue".

It was the result of  a poorly insalled/improperly sealed joint between the rear fiberglass cap and the floor of the coach, (not by moisture)

Wish I was that lucky!  I've had this leak for quite some time and there's no doubt that it's mold.  It was a really bad leak around the Fantastic Fan vent in the bathroom.  Finally got it stopped with liquid rubber!  

43 minutes ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Joe

Are you positive that the "black" is harmful?

https://titaniumlaboratories.com/do-it-yourself-mold-test-kit-swab-news-12/

Have you had it tested?

 

No, haven't had it tested.  

36 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

I had a close friend die from in hailing black mold spores.  It was a very painful death.

That's SCARY!  

1 hour ago, Dennis H said:

Find a local company that specializes in mold extraction and let them handle it.  This is the number one choice. OTOH, you can use a mix of bleach and water that will kill 'most' of the mold spores. it's up to you whether you feel you can adequately kill the spores that may cause health problems with your family.  It becomes a cost vs convenience kind of thing and one that only you can decide. While you're mulling over your choices, consider what you'll do when/if it comes time to sell. Do you disclose? Not disclose? Tough decision...Best of luck ...Dennis

Thanks Dennis, I appreciate your comments.  I've been looking online at mold killing sprays available at Lowes and Tractor Supply.  Some of them have very good reviews.  Just not sure about using them on the foam rubber since there is no mention of that.  It seems most of them are made for hard surfaces.  

Joe

I had a leak above our bathroom that that took forever to run down.  I have found that I have mold above the ceiling and need to find out what I can do to get rid of it.  The ceiling is vinyl with a 1/4" layer of foam rubber on top, with 1/4" wood above that.  The foam and the wood above is black with mold.   Sure hope someone can advise me on this.  Thanks!

Joe

Just now, Grampy OG said:

Great news, thank you so much for the quick response Joe.

👍

1 hour ago, Grampy OG said:

I am not sure if I am missing something here. Does this product only work with Dometic A/C units that incorporate so called dump-air? My Penquin II units simply have return air grills that do not have the sliding dump louver. I have looked at their website up and down and do not see a replacement for return air assemblies without the slide. 

 

Thanks

Ken Wilcox

2003 The Executive

Hi Ken!  The Wacko will work fine with your units.  I think he has modified the silencers to better accommodate different brands.  I would call him for the exact part number you need.  

Joe

21 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

I have the same ceiling as you so I'm wondering about a different noise solution.  It's fairly quiet with those mirrored assemblies but sure could be improved.  I have a sheet of 5/8" thick sound absorption stuff I could put up there to see if it changes anything.  I lowered the assembly 1/2" a few years ago for improved air flow so I do have room.

The Whacko unit is large enough to fit the sound absorption stuff in so I can see how it works on a normal ceiling mount.

This is the circular A/C cover my Signature has, the Executive is similar.

WOW!  That's a beautiful ceiling!  🙂

4 minutes ago, Dennis H said:

Perhaps a dumb question, but how do these work with a regular AC unit? All of our units have a mirror assembly covering the opening for the AC units. Removing the bolts and swinging down the assemblies to clean the filters is a real PITA so I was thinking this may help. Or are they only for units that have the system hanging from the ceiling? TIA...Dennis

Not sure what you have.  Could you post some pics?

6 minutes ago, Hypoxia said:

I would like to see the compressor pressures on a hot day before and after installing those.   Surely they restrict air flow which increases pressures causing the compressor to run hotter reducing efficiency and lifespan.  How else can they reduce the noise level?

The air opening is on one side of the cover.  You install them with the opening side away from the opening up into the A/C unit.  There is a layer of sound absorbing material on the side under the A/C unit opening.  That absorbs some of the sound coming down from the unit but doesn't restrict the airflow.  

Don't know if this has been discussed here before but wanted to let you know my experience with the Wacko silencer for RV A/C units.  Th e Dometic Penguin II High-capacity heat pumps in our coach were very loud, and the front unit is right in front of our recliners.  It was irritating to try to hear the TV with the A/C going!  I bought one of the Wacko silencers and installed it on the front unit.  It reduced the sound level at our listening position by 6 db, an amazing difference!  I thought it was a little pricey for a couple pieces of plastic, but decided it was definitely worth it!  After seeing what it could do I ordered one for the bedroom unit!  ☺️