bandmmorris

I am selling these for my son. He works at a large rv repair facility and has accumulated these over time.

What I have probable won't work for you.

Looks like what you have is 5.3gpm while the ones I have are 3 gpm so may not work for you.

One is new and the others have been tested and are good. Don't know age, but look very new.

Dometic RM 2551 5 cubic foot gas/110 volt refrigerator. Brand new. $500. New price over $1000. Montgomery, Texas

Water pumps, like new. $30 plus shipping. I have 2 - Flojet model 03526144, 2 - Shurflo model 4008-101-A65 and 1 (new) Artis model PDS1RV25. The Shurflo and Artis have screw on connections and the Flojet uses quick connects. I am pretty sure they will interchange with other brands. All are 3.0 gpm pumps.

Suspect the cause was arcing the battery when replacing the starting batteries.

Just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel that were blown I found an Allison box in the front electrical panel. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.

Thanks for the offer, but just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel I found and Allison box. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.

My rear bay is somewhat different. Yours does not seem to have the small enclosures with fuses that mine does. Mine also has battery disconnects (for chassis and coach) and some other items.

I have looked multiple times and cannot find any other wires to connect. I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. Since my initial post I have made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.

Made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.

I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. The battery area is the only place I worked in. Battery voltages are good, around 13.3 volts. I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same.

Battery voltages are good and when I jumper the starter solenoid engine turns over good. Wiring matches my wiring diagram. Only cables are main positive and negative cables, charging wire to the chassis and coach battery banks and small ground wire from the charge controller. The starter solenoid has voltage on one of the main terminals which has to be coming from the battery. When I jumper the starting solenoid the engine turns over as the other terminal then has voltage. Just not getting voltage to the small wire on the solenoid when I turn the key to start.

Thanks for your comments. All connections are good. Sketched all connections before changing and put back same way. I have the complete wiring diagram for my coach and all wiring matches the diagrams.

I changed the batteries in my 2007 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ and now the starter will not engage. Here is what I have found so far. If I jumper the small wire on the starter solenoid the engine will turn over, but not start. When the start position is engaged there is no voltage at this terminal. Most of the dash lights come on, but not the "Wait to Start" or the pushbuttons for the Allison transmission shift selections. The fuel gauge does not operate either. Have checked all the fuses I can find and all appear good. Ignition relays "click" when key is turned on. I don't think it is an ignition switch problem. Kind of ran out of everything I can think of to try so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I changed the batteries in my 2007 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ and now the starter will not engage. Here is what I have found so far. If I jumper the small wire on the starter solenoid the engine will turn over, but not start. When the start position is engaged there is no voltage at this terminal. Most of the dash lights come on, but not the "Wait to Start" or the pushbuttons for the Allison transmission shift selections. The fuel gauge does not operate either. Have checked all the fuses I can find and all appear good. Ignition relays "click" when key is turned on. I don't think it is an ignition switch problem. Kind of ran out of everything I can think of to try so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I had a similar problem a few years ago and it turned out to be a bad ground connection to the dash. If the voltage is low I would try running a hot wire directly to the dash feed and see if the gauges work. Seems there could be ways to correct low voltage short of replacing the steering colum. Also, you likely could find a used switch if needed.

Thanks for the advice. Went to Ace and got springs that will work and am going to make stainless replacement pins. Hopefully they will last longer and cause less problems.

If Carefree had used stainless steel springs and pins instead of carbon steel they would have lasted.

I have one other question I hope someone can answer. My toppers are Carefree Summit. The cover assembly is held in place by 2 spring loaded pins on each end. Not surprisingly most of the springs and pins have deteriorated and don't work. I have not been able to find replacement springs as this design is now obsolete. The solution appears to be the purchase of new end caps which allow the use of screws instead of the spring loaded pins to hold the cover on. My question is if 1) anyone knows where the springs or spring loaded pins can be purchased or 2) can my existing end caps be modified to use screws instead of the pins. Obviously I am trying to avoid purchasing a few hundred dollars worth of end caps.

Thanks for all the good comments. I am removing and reinstalling myself. It only takes me around 15 minutes to remove the old topper fabric. I am pretty sure I can redo the rear toppers (I have 4) because they are wrapped around the tube almost 4 times. That gives me plenty of length to cut off 8-10 inches of deteriorated material on the top and have plenty left to wrap around the tube. The polyrod came out fine and appears to be in good shape. We have a heavy duty sewing machine and marine thread. The current canvas toppers should not be a problem to sew. We have done some resewing on a couple of them a few years back.

I have talked to StoneVOS and they are great. If I decide to buy it will be from them. First I am going to see if I can refurbish and reuse any of mine. I think I can remove and recondition most, if not all, of mine.

Thanks for the info. I looked closer at mine and they are all wrapped around the roller 2-4 times so plenty of length to remove and reverse. Thanks for the advice. I am going to try to reverse mine and likely will not have to buy covers, at least not for a few more years. Great site and wonderful people. I want to thank everyone for the outstanding advice. I now know outstanding suppliers, but even better, have ideas on how to reverse and reuse my existing covers which, if it works (and I think it will), will save me a lot of money.