granvillebarker
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Posts posted by granvillebarker
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I have run a lot of cables around my coach, ethernet and others. I ran two ethernet from front to back through the AC chase that goes from front to back. My dynasty has one of those "do not use" cabinets over the bedroom TV, I have the wifi router and home assistant computer inside it. Since it backs up to the bathroom, I have one ethernet that goes down behind the tv, through the bathroom into the basement.
I think all roadster chassis's have an extra pipe running front to back along one of the frame rails for your extra wires. I used it on my 2002 Windsor, and on my 2005 Dynasty. That's your best route if you want to go front to back via outside.
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We got ready to break camp Saturday morning and my slides would not retract, the big one got about 80% in and the hydraulic pump motor stopped. I checked all the fuses and they are good, and I also had power to the soleniod strapped to the side of the motor. I ended up tapping the end of the motor a few times with the handle of my screwdriver and it started working again.
I watched a YouTube video about a guy tearing apart his motor and replacing the brushes. I pulled my motor off last night to clean and check the brushes, and my motor was nothing like his (luckily). His motor was smaller, the one on my unit was 3.5" in diameter with the two screws spaced 3" apart. If you tap on your motor to fix it, tap the end, not the sides!
This 3.5" motor has very large wedged shaped brushes, you can see in the attached photo. For springs push them down onto the stator, they engage on the end rather than the sides like most motors. I removed the black tray the holds them, cleaned them all and reassembled it. It really wasn't that dirty; hopefully the cleaning keeps it going for another 18 years without issues.
The two small Philips screw remove that small cover, those screws also hold the brush assembly to the end of the motor. It has access to the brush springs under it behind the little plastic plugs, but I didn't remove them as I didn't want to break them.
It was pretty easy to get the motor off and back on through the hatch in the step, and it took about 1 hour start to finish.
Hopefully this will help someone down the road.
Granville Barker - 2005 Monaco Dynasty
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My Dynasty came with the Sani Con when new, I've used it for 18 years with only a few problems:
The first time it stopped (about a year after we bought the coach) in the middle of dumping the black tank, and I tried using my electric drill driver to turn the shaft from the screw slot on the other end, but it was too slow. I ended up taking the back off the motor and finding that the thermal overload sensor was corroded and not connecting. I bypassed it and dumped the tank. At this point it was still in warranty and RV Sani Con sent me a replacement. I drilled several holes in the box to make sure the motor stayed cool and dry after the first failure. As I recall the box was pretty moist when that first motor died, and I'm pretty sure that caused the corrosion.
The replacement worked flawlessly until last year. I thought it was dead, but after taking it apart and cleaning it out it worked for another year. When I got the motorhome out this year, it was dead and we are using the old hose dump method. It has really spoiled me, so when I get time, I will repair it again either with a new pump or whatever it takes to get this old one going again.
I have had to replace the both hoses, the big one once, and the small one a couple of times. Both hoses got cracks and started leaking at different times. One time, I accidentally let the small hose touch the hot aqua hot exhaust, and that quickly burned a hole right through it.
Granville Barker
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On 7/29/2022 at 7:33 AM, Georgia Mike said:
I went over today to bring the Coach home for a trip and on start up the Hwh panel was dead. The air pressure gauges on the dash came up to the correct pressure but the air bags didn’t air up. I pressed the on off button and travel mode many times and nothing. No lights on panel. I restarted the engine and still nothing then I put it in Drive and released the air brake and I heard a click under the dash and the green travel light came on and everything was fine. This hasn’t happened before so Im kind of concerned heading out for a trip. When I got to the house the key pad powered on and off just fine no problems. Has this happened to anyone before…maybe just a rare occurrence?
Mike,
Is your salesman switch on? Last time I chased down that issue someone had turned off the switch by the door. The air leveling on our coaches appears to get power from the house side.
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Granville Barker
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Okeechobee isn’t far from you and with all the sugar farms there I’d bet they have just the type welder Ivan is describing.
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Insurance companies use some resource to verify lightning strikes. My agent was able to tell me a strike happened within 1000 feet of a property I had filed a claim on about five years ago.
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You can also get the tool to take apart the solenoids on amazon:
Nitrous Express 15733 Solenoid Maintenance Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GBJOPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VTT1X0W8HYN1N2HFXMCZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Here are amazon links for the o-rings I have been using:
019 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051Y15T0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
015 Viton O-Ring - 75A Durometer,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R43GCNL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XDE3FDQW7N0QS7NNEPQ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
028 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXBGXXV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Make sure to get some o-ring grease for them. -
Wow, this is an active subject. I just redid all my docking lights. I found the marine replacements but didn’t want to spend that much. I didn’t want them brighter either - wouldn’t want them blinding other drivers if they were accidentally turned on while driving.
I took them apart and put LED bulbs in them. If you take them out there are two screws under all the sealant on the back. Take them out and you can get the bulb out.
The filament bulb is screwed into the back of the lens, theres one small screw. I then removed the old bulb from the holder, bent the
holder until my LED bulb would fit. I soldered wires to the bulb and glued it all In palce with pro seal.
For The two rectangular ones on the back i ripped then filament out of the bulb and used a Phillips head screwdriver (use safety glasses too) to make the whole big enough for an LED bulb and glued them and then covered the backs with eternabond. I have a pic of these in progress but can’t find my pics of the oval ones.
—Geanville Barker
05 Dynasty
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On 2/11/2022 at 12:41 PM, hbr509 said:
You guys got me thinking so I checked mine and its at 62psi with the front axle weight at 14.400. I called Barry at Josam he said Monaco likes to see 13.500-14.500 . I have to go back next Monday for new drag link bar and 6 more tires he said we will weight all the axles and see what we have . Its a 2007 Dynasty Squire limited I put 295/80/22.5 all around Toyo
Bryan,
Just curios what pressures your running in your toyos. I weighed just before leaving on this trip and ended up putting the front at 115psi, rear at 105psi, but I think I should lower that to 85 or 90, and tag is at 70 psi.
I have 3150 lbs on each tag wheel, 6250 on that axle. I have just under 20K on the rear axle, and just over 14K on the front axle.
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Granville Barker
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22 hours ago, Busnut said:
Thanks,
I have something making a sound very fant sound (screeching sound) when my engine temperature is around 195 or higher. And the check gauges light comes on and off very fant as well. My engine does not go over 210 when going up a steep grade. What is the normal operating heat range for a 2003 ISM? Any ideas what to look for?
As for the sound, it could be that board or one like it. The round part you see peeking through the black heat shrink is a piezo buzzer. Older ones like ours will chirp quieter especially at lower voltages.
There must be one tied to temperature too; its interesting to learn about alarms that may be on my coach that I have never heard in 19 years of ownership. Perhaps its in the manual or schematics. I should probably read it again.
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15 hours ago, jacwjames said:
What engine do you have???
I kind of did that last year when I went out west to SD & ND, instead of coming back on the interstate I drove up and took Highway 2 east into the UP of Michigan. I track fuel consumption and miles on my Silverleaf. But I don't see that big of swing driving 55 to 75.
Safe Travels.
I have an ISL-400-2. I think 8.4 is the best we can get out of the drivetrain. The coach is well stocked and we are towing a Jeep 4xE. Taking the generator into consideration, probably 7.5 like you are seeing.
At what speed can you maintain 8.4?
In thinking more about it my initial 20 miles was probably much higher because of idling while waiting for air to build and checking tire inflations, plus stop-go traffic getting out of town.
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Definitely one of the beepers, either blinkers, tag axle, or low air. I have seen two of them in my dash, there may be more.
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We hit the road this week, and for the first 30 miles I was driving 65, fuel economy was about 5.5mpg. We were not in any hurry and didn't have far to go that day, so I slowed down to 55. Gas milage went up to 8.4 mpg, and I was able to do that again today. So for 250 miles of travel, only about 30 gallons. We were on mostly 4-lane that wasn't busy, so I wasn't slowing anyone down. Going slower than 55 didn't seem to increase economy. The allison economy mode didn't seem to make any difference.
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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3 hours ago, Adam_C said:
Y'all are impressive! I'm in my thirties and just dropped off my coach for a grease service (among other things). I do other things, such as change my own oil, but I've just gotten tired of grease.
It’s hard for me to find all those Zerk fittings when I grease her, it would be hard to find a service facility that I would trust to find them all.
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We are about to embark on a 6 week trip and all the media start talking about a diesel shortage today.... I bet we will be reading about people robbing the old cooking oil from all the fast food restaurants next.
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Granville Barker
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I've done all the service on my Dynasty since I got her in 2005. You guys are giving me hope I can do this another 25 years. It amazes me how many of you service your own tires.
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Granville Barker
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6 hours ago, Tim-AZ said:
My Scanngage D does get everything from the engine plug under the dash.
Tim
Is scanguage d using J1939 (CAN bus) or J1708? It sounds like your rear connector like mine has CAN J1939 and your front one is just J1708. 2004 may not have CAN though.
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46 minutes ago, Romeo84 said:
Soooo.. now when I tackle this do you think I just swap to a 20 amp breaker if the wire size accommodates? Or should I just swap the breakers like yours has.
I don't have any problems now but I just wonder if I should just add the 20 amp. Plan on using ac a lot this summer in AZ. Really would like to not fry the middle one out because of lack of power.
Totally going to use that picture for reference when I get back and open the panel up.
Thanks
Rather than swap the breaker out, I would put the washer / dryer on the 15-amp breaker #7, and move the A/C back to the 20-amp breaker #8A. Splendid W/D only needs 15 amp breaker. I really don't know why Monaco didn't do it this way from the factory. It would be great to know if they had a reason.
I'm going to go swap mine so the A/C and washer and dryer can run at the same time. Typically we need the air on when that dryer is heating up the bedroom. If it's cold enough to have the block heater on, there's no way your going to have the A/C on and it's probably too cold for the heat pump too.
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Granville Barker
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23 hours ago, Gary Cole said:
Be careful to understand that a GFCI doesn't provide overcurrent, arc, or fault protection. A GFCI only senses an unbalance in current flow due to a path to ground. The 15/20 A designation is the manufacturers non-continuous load rating.
Gary
Just to clarify, you are talking about a GFCI outlet not a GFCI breaker, right? I would think a GFCI breaker would still have to trip for over current as well as a ground fault.
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Granville Barker
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I knew the original Monaco was gone in 2010, but the coaches have still been made by subsequent owners of the brand. It looks like 2019 was the last year any Monaco coaches were made, at least that's the last owners manual year they show for download.
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Wow, I didn't realize Monaco was totally gone now. When did they last sell coaches with the Monaco brand, I don't see any newer than 2019 for sale on the net. If you goto Monacocoach.com, there are no new coaches listed. They refer you to AmericanCoach, and I didn't see the Rev Monaco Signature anywhere either.
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Granville Barker
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M&G - I installed my first M&G on my Dodge Dakota in 2005, it wasn't an easy install but it has worked great for 17 years. Last year we took a honda crv to Athens, TX and let Monty install an M&G on it. It took about an hour for the install, and total costs was $950. Both of these were the original M&G that went between the brake booster and master cylinder.
This spring we added a Jeep 4xE to the toad collection, and I installed the new M&G 2.0 system on the Jeep myself. It took about an hour, and was a pretty easy install, compared to the base plate and wiring harnesses. Total cost was $775 shipped to my house.
M&G is a very small company in Athen, TX, I think Monty is the owner and runs the entire operation by himself. He takes all the calls and he did my honda install when I went there.
Very happy with M&G and never experience the labor rates that Dave mentioned.
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Granville Barker
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54 minutes ago, DrDon4u said:
Even better than that, go to any T-Mobile store and get T-Mobile "HOME INTERNET". (Home Internet not the MYFI) NO CONTRACT, NO EQUIP FEE, normal SPEEDS from 300 TO 1000 MPS.
Turn it off and on when you are not using it. Its a FLAT $50 a month. A bunch of my friends have been using it in their RV's and LOVE IT!!!!
T-mobile is pretty awesome too, we have that as well and it worked almost everywhere we traveled last fall. You can’t beat that price and it has unlimited data with no throttling. With T-Mobile we had connectivity most of the trip, kids could even stream movies while driving.
Places like Brice Canyon and Big Bend are where we need Starlink.
SHARP MICROWAVE BLOWING FUSES
in Appliances
Posted
I also had sheet metal screws on each side. Monaco ran them into the wood on each side. There are also the 2 sharp screws at an angle that hold it to the mount. I had the same issue last year and the parts to fix it were less than $10 on amazon. 19 years old and still cooking!