granvillebarker

Last week I followed up with micro-air and the Duo-Therm version was ready.   They arrived this morning and took literally five minutes to install them.   
 

So far they appear to work great, and now I can adjust the air from anywhere!

—

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

ps:   I have no affiliation with micro-air, just a happy customer.

Chet,

We also have a Tesla Model Y we tow behind the RV.   I bought a Featherlight enclosed trailer to carry it.   I hope you ordered your model Y with a tow hitch.

The featherlight is light enough when unloaded to move around with the model Y if needed.   
 

I am also used to mainly flat towing, so I’m still getting used to the setup, but so far so good.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

—

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

PS:   just make sure the trailer isn’t too heavy to move with the Tesla.   I would have been ok with an open trailer that had a shield on the front.   If you have extra funds, check out the areovault trailer.

Manual says 500, see below...

I used rolls like this inside my porch light and all the fluorescents inside the coach.   I glued the porch light lens on after putting the leds in it, so no good pic of it.   
 

Flexible LED Strip Lights,300 Units SMD 5050 LEDs,LED Strips,Waterproof,12 Volt LED Light Strips, Pack of 16.4ft/5m,for Holiday/Home/Party/Indoor/Outdoor Decoration(White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R4X1XL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_k4YQFbHBYCS7H
 

Dave, 

I am fairly sure my basement temp sensor is on the end of a coil of wire near the Aladdin box that it connects to, in the top of the middle storage bay.   I’ll look tomorrow and get pics, there should be a number on the sensor itself.

—

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

4 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

I have two of the old Sanicon's and added the plug so I can swap it out and repair and clean the other for a backup. I also did away with the outer box as it servers no real purpose. I added a relay and a switch in the service bay and a second momentary switch under the sink in the bath area for those times with the gray does not drain I can run the Sanicon without going outside.

 

I added an electric actuator to my grey tank valve many years ago with a hidden switch in the bath area.  When my black tank starts getting close to full, I flip the switch to close the grey tank and fill it before flushing the tanks.   I’ll post a pic later if anyone is interested.

My sanicon is also in a box, and has a shureflo pump.   One thing I did was add a plug for it so I could remove it and clean it when needed

33 minutes ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Granville Barker

$40,000? or $4,000?

$40,000.00

Reading the forums sometimes makes me really paranoid of what’s going to break next on the coach.    In the 15 years I’ve had it, we have had very few problems really.   Never had to be towed or anything like that.   I try to do lots of preventative maintenance, but there’s stuff like the 3 AC’s, I have never had to touch.   8 of my airbags are original, and I’m still on my second set of tires.   Even the Aqua-hot has been fairly problem free, those sticky check valves do need to be tapped from time to time.  
 

I received one of those good sams flyers about their service plan a few weeks ago, and got a quote for the fun of it.   With $100 deductible, they wanted $40000.   I wasn’t clear if that was for one year or what.   I could get a nice used coach for parts every 2-3 years at that rate.

My coach has never been to a dealer for service, hopefully I can keep it that way.

Do any of you get this paranoia?

—

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

You can also snake a hose down a toilet and dump if needed.   ( I’ve never had to do that, but the dump end of my sanicon has a hose fitting for this. )

My coach came with sanicon in 2005, it’s been running 15 years without issues.   I love not dealing with the big sewer hoses!   Although I keep the onboard just in case.

You might try filling the black tank about 3/4 way with water and add a few bags of ice, then drive around.   The ice might help clean the sprayer enough to get it going.   
 

—

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

We have been traveling again for the past week.   If you do the wax valve, don’t be afraid to get things too tight.   After the third time of retightening everything the my hydraulic leaks were fixed.   (Poor toad, he got the worst of it.)

Anyway, at 4.5 turns out, coolant temp has been 185-192 traveling in south Florida.

The really awesome part though is MPG is up .9MPG from 6.5 to 7.4!!!

—

Granville Barker 

05 Dynasty

I just added them to my amazon cart this morning...

On my dynasty, the front a/c drains at the front by the generator on the drivers side, the mid a/c near the tank bay on the pass side, and the rear A/C at the very back drivers side.    So you may want a few strategically located drains.  I’d put one under the water tank and aquahot drains as well if I were doing it.

I replaced my leaking parking brake valve before our latest trip, and about 4 hours into the drive I start hearing weird noises from the left console.   After a bit I realize I’m hearing a big air leak and I can see it on the air gauge cycling the compressor about every 2 minutes and getting louder as pressure builds.   I figured it was one of the lines or connections to the valve, pull over and find the new valve leaking air from a seam in the plastic.   
    
We are traveling in Florida, so I called lazy dayz for the part, they didn’t have one and directed me to Napa.    They said at least two weeks, none in any of their warehouses.    So I ordered a high pressure

3-way ball valve to use in the meantime.    
 

Does anyone know if there is a similar replacement valve that isn’t plastic?

My coach has the midland KN20033

I do wish I had floor drains where the A/C drains are, I have a system of pvc pipe I can put in place if I need to run the A/C while it’s in the shop.    
 

The biggest thing I wish I had in the shop would be a pit under the motorhome.   It could just be in the back and not too deep.   It wouldn’t add much to the cost, just a little extra forming and rebar. ( if you aren’t dealing with regulations and inspectors )

3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Your exhaust air should stop after 3 minutes or so. It is just to cool the combustion parts down. We don't have the narrow light do I can't comment on its meaning. Watch for the burner starting up again on its own after the coolant temp triggers low temp thermostat at the boiler tank, if it does.

The thin light is the on indicator.  The other light is switch illumination.   Don’t trust the on indicator though If it’s off, my aqua hot electric one and my front genset switch on indicators burned out years ago. 

On 10/9/2020 at 8:27 AM, rpasetto said:

I tried the suggestion of a garden sprayer from @miacasa_2000.   Used the same Dawn solution but now with a pumped-up garden sprayer my spray range was about 8' or more.  That enabled hitting every fitting and line visible from either side.  No bubbles.  Wondering if the Kids Bubbles would do any better than a Dawn solution.

I know I have a leak in the step-cover pneumatic cylinder, but I turned the screws all the way down on the MAC valve.  I think somewhere else is still leaking.  The airbags stay firm with the HWH system shut off so I think that eliminates anything on the bag side of the HWH 6-packs.

Has anyone tried an electronic leak detector?

I bought an electronic leak detector last year, and found 0 leaks with it.   I’m not sure if I wasn’t using it right, or if it was bad out of the box, but for me it was a total waste of money.   Soapy water is the only thing that’s worked for me.

I ran into a guy in Colorado that had a Monaco that didn’t look like a Monaco anymore.   The front cap and rear were totally redone.    He said the Foretravel body shop in Texas had done it.   I’d check with them if you are near there, it was amazing.

Bruce,

Please report back what works for you, I still have this task ahead of me some day.

—

Granville Barker

05’ Dynasty

On this topic, I recently ordered some of the aluminum coated foam to fix the insulation on the engine cover and sides of the engine compartment where it is coming apart.

I bought some of this heat shield foam stuff, but the adhesive will not stick, despite my efforts to clean under there.   Does anyone have any suggestions?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14100

—

Granville Barker

05’ Dynasty Countessa

I’ve also been having intermittent issues with mine.   One symptom I have is the internal oil level sensor stops working.   I’m sure it’s a wiring issue as I can go under and      replug the big connector and it works for a bit.   
 

My last attempt, I tried to take the plug apart on the chassis side, ended up pouring  a cup of fine dust out of it, but I never could figure out how it comes apart.    
 

Thanks for this, I’ll go check the ground today.

On another note, on a trip to Alaska my engine kept dying the code said the ecm was loosing power.   It turned out to be the big ground wire going to the engine wasn’t making a good connection.   

—

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

Can you hear the flush activator when the light turns red?    Does the flush valve open if you flip the service switch?    
 

if no action there, check the wires from the board down to the flush activator.

On 10/7/2020 at 12:25 PM, Moonwink said:

I just bought 4 of the Trojan T-105 batteries myself.  I had 4 Interstate GC-2 batteries before that and purchased the Flow Rite system for them because I don't have a battery tray and it would be extremely difficult to figure out what the level is in the batteries in the back of the compartment.  The Interstate batteries were completely full when I pulled them out.  I found the best price on Amazon for the pump and caps for 4 batteries.  I'm happy with the system and would buy it again although I think it's over priced but it does work. 

This is a picture of my battery compartment with the 6 year old Interstate batteries.  I'd need an extension mirror to see the level in those back cells but I can't figure out how I'd ever fill them to the correct level. 

That's the flow-rite system, I had on my interstate's, but it stopped flowing rite after a year or so.   Also the hand pump you use to fill them came apart on me, so I imagine the little float valves were made about like the hand pump. 

I’m not sure who is in charge of monacoers.org, but it would be nice if you got invision to add the field that shows our coach year and model to the header of each post so we can all see what coach a poster has without looking at their profile.

I am sure this could be done, I used invision on RVParkReviews.com back when it was mine.

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Granville Barker